Wow! So much quick feedback! Thank you so much!
Thanks for moving, Gary. I debated about where to put this...guess I guessed wrong!
Originally posted by mithrandir I am not sure exactly what you are looking for, but I used Dynamic Photo HDR to apply a eye catching contrast curve to the color version and then converted it to B&W:
I do definitely see where this is superior in some areas, but my main problem in the conversion of people (and especially children, since that is what is in front of my lens most of the time) is in the skin tone, and it starts to look a little mottled here...I wonder if converting and using some type of skin softening effect would work together?
Originally posted by SWEngineer My 2c
I think you overdid the contrast a bit in the baby's head and hands. Some of these areas have gone fully black. And the baby's face seems a bit too bright. That said, I don't think this image works very well in B&W. The white shirt and white areas of the football become big (or bigger) distractions. In the color image, the color of the baby's skin contrasts nicely with the rest of the image, making it easy to focus on the baby. In the B&W version, the contrast vanishes and the bright areas dominate. Perhaps that is why you pushed the contrast like you did? You might still get a good B&W out of this image, but it will take a lot of work taming the white areas.
Yes, I definitely see what you mean about the white spaces--I do think that is where it is hurting but I just couldn't see it. I absolutely knew I was losing detail and pushing contrast too far, but less and it looked too flat. Yes, yes, thank you for the new set of eyes.
Originally posted by creampuff Kierra, you have not stated the method you did the B&W conversion. Even in Photoshop, there are so many ways to carry out B&W conversions, not including the many plug-ins available. Did you used the B&W adjustment tool, by far the easiest method within CS3/CS4?
Basically CS3's targeted adjustment tool (same as Lightroom) allows for adjustment of how each colour data is converted to B&W, which is far more precise than the traditional methods like the channel mixer method. Banding and subtle gradations come out smoother.
When I convert in CS3, I create a new adjustment layer for B&W, using CS3's B&W conversion tool. Is this the same as the targeted adjustment tool? (Forgive my ignorance...
)
Originally posted by janosh If you do a lot of this type of work, or portraits, or weddings, you'll want Lightroom's unique "Clarity" adjustment. Reducing Clarity a little, perhaps with local contrast tweaking (maybe eyes/hair/lips) easily emulates Zeiss Softar filtration, which was an almost-always tool in portraiture, especially with 120 ...Softar was essential to virtually every Hasselblad fashion photo and many rock&roll promos from that era, not to mention the formal portraits. As well, Lightroom does B&W conversions wonderfully well in various ways, all easier than Photoshop's. Lightroom's Clarity adjustment will eliminate the inevitable infant skin glitches (obvious even on our monitors) without noticable softening if you use it carefully.
I don't really do a lot of this...just for friends and friends of friends. I haven't bought lightroom yet, mostly b/c of limited funds and the fact that I don't really 'need' it... though I keep getting told again and again that I should. The skin tones are really what tends to cause the problem I think, as any splotchiness or mottled areas seem to be exaggerated in the conversion, true.
Originally posted by FHPhotographer I've used just about every technique in CS3 and CS4, and nothing touches Nik Silver Efex Pro as a plug-in for PS. It's expensive, but it has a trial download and it's really worth taking a look. Of particular use is being able to change brightness/contrast/structure area by area using the Control Points, then pick a filter and/or film type to get exactly the tonal gradations you want. I've found the quick n' dirty method is to import, copy the layer and run the auto tone, contrast and color, backing off each in opacity as needed; then run a sharpening, then the Silver Efex because it allows you to introduce grain and you don't want to be sharpening the grain. Good luck,
Brian
Thanks. I see several have suggested it. I will take a look at it.
Originally posted by k100d I have read the article that Keitha did--while it is excellent, I don't speak Lightroom yet, so it didn't make much sense to me....again, maybe I just need to give in and spend the money for LR!
Originally posted by MPrince Thanks for the link. I will spend some time trying to glean some wisdom from the site--it looks pretty expansive...I'm sure I'll use up plenty of time perusing it!
Thanks again to all who chimed in. I really appreciate the feedback and suggestions.