I was at the Edmonton Indy today.

Here is a few taken with Sigma 70-200 HSM.

[Just12hvFun]

These are very nice pcitures that you have here

Have you tried the Sigma with TCs

I really hope to be able to do such pictures soon

Thanks for sharing

[Denis]

These are very nice pcitures that you have here

Have you tried the Sigma with TCs

I really hope to be able to do such pictures soon

Thanks for sharing

Thanks,

I did tried with a Kenko x1.5 but it made it difficult to get a quick focus. These cars were moving quite fast. I have taken over 200 images, most are quite good. I will post more later. The temperature was 33c with racetrack at 45c, no wind. I am tired but definitely a good day and now I need to rest.

[kkoether]

Nice shots. Glad to see more Motorsports showing up here. I'm planning on going to the ICS race at Kentucky next Saturday night. Hope to get some good pictures myself.

[Denis]

Well decided to take a few minutes and post a few more.

[cupic]

Thanks for the shoot 70-200 working fine, I also tried the TC Kenko and have also had trouble with fast pace subjects


cheers

[kevinschoenmakers]

I never take pictures of fast moving subjects, so I don't really feel I'm in a position to critisize. However, your pictures don't show the speed of the vehicles. Try panning so the background is blurred in such a way the vehicles look like they're driving at high speed.

A picture from PPG to show what I mean (I didn't take this picture):

PENTAX Photo Gallery

[Ash]

I think you've done great with these images.
Sure, they stop the action and don't give a feel of the speed, but it looks like your combo is up for the task of fast action shots (albeit at some distance).

[MRRiley]

Nice job. You can't always show movement, especially when the vehicles are moving in your direction (sorta hard to pan "in distance"). Doesn't help that most of these tracks have high chainlink fences (as your 2nd shot shows).

My suggestion, at these kinds of venues at least, would be to pick a spot in the stands (preferably where the sun will be primarily at your back) on the center of a curve and sit as high as needed to give you an unobstructed view of the inside 20 odd feet of the track. Switch to manual focus and prefocus on the center of that zone. This will let you pan on the cars as they enter the curve (do not try to focus on them as they approach) and shoot just as they hit your spot. Make sure you follow through to ensure you don't disrupt the panning motion. The main problem with this scenario is that your zone of focus will be harder to hit than if you were "inside" of the curve (very difficult on these kinds of tracks w/o a media pass).

Btw, the advantage of a curve is that even though they are still going real fast they are going slower than in a straight and are thus easier to pan on.

Mike

[Denis]

I never take pictures of fast moving subjects, so I don't really feel I'm in a position to critisize. However, your pictures don't show the speed of the vehicles. Try panning so the background is blurred in such a way the vehicles look like they're driving at high speed.

A picture from PPG to show what I mean (I didn't take this picture):

PENTAX Photo Gallery

You mean like this one. My problem was location. I had a small window to take photos to not include the protective fence. Cars came down the straight at sometimes 200 m/h, slow down and made the turn at over 100 m/h. You only have a few seconds to focus and take the shot.

[Denis]

Nice job. You can't always show movement, especially when the vehicles are moving in your direction (sorta hard to pan "in distance"). Doesn't help that most of these tracks have high chainlink fences (as your 2nd shot shows).

My suggestion, at these kinds of venues at least, would be to pick a spot in the stands (preferably where the sun will be primarily at your back) on the center of a curve and sit as high as needed to give you an unobstructed view of the inside 20 odd feet of the track. Switch to manual focus and prefocus on the center of that zone. This will let you pan on the cars as they enter the curve (do not try to focus on them as they approach) and shoot just as they hit your spot. Make sure you follow through to ensure you don't disrupt the panning motion. The main problem with this scenario is that your zone of focus will be harder to hit than if you were "inside" of the curve (very difficult on these kinds of tracks w/o a media pass).

Btw, the advantage of a curve is that even though they are still going real fast they are going slower than in a straight and are thus easier to pan on.

Mike

I agree but but keep in mind that you will need greater than 200mm if you sit higher and further away from the track. The media has the best locations for taking dramatic photos. Spectators are located for viewing not photos. As for my location, I was too far to pan prior to the curve, almost head on in the turn and a fence blocking my view past the curve. Difficult conditions to work with but made the best of it.

[MRRiley]

I agree but but keep in mind that you will need greater than 200mm if you sit higher and further away from the track. The media has the best locations for taking dramatic photos. Spectators are located for viewing not photos. As for my location, I was too far to pan prior to the curve, almost head on in the turn and a fence blocking my view past the curve. Difficult conditions to work with but made the best of it.

Oh I agree completely and understand about the 200mm. You did quite well for what you had to work with and that was what I was trying to say. My comments were just advise on "a" way to stack the odds in your favor to some extent in spite of the bias toward spectators rather than photographers.

You mean like this one. My problem was location. I had a small window to take photos to not include the protective fence. Cars came down the straight at sometimes 200 m/h, slow down and made the turn at over 100 m/h. You only have a few seconds to focus and take the shot.

This is well done, especially considering the visibility handicaps you were working under. This is where the manual pre-focusing will help a great deal. Watch the line the cars take a vew times and then prefocus on that spot. This relieves you of one more detail as you take the actual shot.

Mike

[Denis]

Oh I agree completely and understand about the 200mm. You did quite well for what you had to work with and that was what I was trying to say. My comments were just advise on "a" way to stack the odds in your favor to some extent in spite of the bias toward spectators rather than photographers.

Mike

Thanks,
Totally agree and It is good advice.

;This is well done, especially considering the visibility handicaps you were working under. This is where the manual pre-focusing will help a great deal. Watch the line the cars take a vew times and then prefocus on that spot. This releaves you of one more detail as you take the actual shot.

Mike

The Sigma 70-200 HSM actually focus well in AF. I aimed at the red hash marks, focus and waited for the car to enter the frame. Tried manual focusing but could not get it right. Maybe it was due to having the sun in my face, wearing sunglasses. I have never done this kind of imaging so learned a lot from it, location, lenses and techniques will improve in the future.

[Denis]

Nice shots. Glad to see more Motorsports showing up here. I'm planning on going to the ICS race at Kentucky next Saturday night. Hope to get some good pictures myself.

Thanks,

First time at the Edmonton Indy. A friend convinced me to go. Well worth it on a beautiful day and the opportunity to get some decent shots.

Great shots.

I've been looking to get more reach in sports photography to accompany my DA* 50-135mm. It is a marvellous lens and I've taken some great pictures with it, but getting a tad more reach could mean a world to me in some situations. I shoot mainly ice hockey, which means demanding indoor photography. It can be really tricky as the subjects move fast and tend to have an annoying habit of getting off focus, as expected.

I know that basically my options are between the Sigma and Tamron 70-200mm lenses. These photos look good given the circumstances, especially the lack of good places to take the photos. I simply just don't know which to go for?

Naturally the K-7 might do some magic to noise control and sensitivity when compared to the K10, which would help me to control the zone of focus with more range in it. In ice hockey it would sometimes be beneficial to have a bit more flexibility there instead of having to go aperture full open.