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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
11-12-2023, 06:08 PM
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By flipping the vello's third section by 180 degrees :)
But this is nothing you can carry around or use in the street anyway... Just get a TTL spiral cable and hold the flash off yourself whenever need be.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
11-11-2023, 09:46 PM
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Yeah, that quote is pretty funny, the author just wants to point out that the Metz' design is radically different, since it is basically lying on the camera and not standing. Here are some better pictures: ???????, Metz Mecablitz 40 MZ-3i (Canon EOS)
Wouldn't say it is similar to that Sunpak. The Sunpak is still an old-school flash with simple push controllers while the MZ-2 in 1992 was one of the very first working the same way as today's flashes.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
11-08-2023, 03:11 PM
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Had a similar problem with my Super A, the viewfinder displays were coming on in a very unreliable way, I had to push the button a dozen of times. Finally checked the parts list to understand the basic construction of the shutter assembly, then got out my contact cleaning spray and (after removing the batteries) really soaked the whole thing inside out. I let it rest for 6 hours, sometimes pushing the release button and turning the mode selector, put in the batteries again and, voila, had a perfectly working unit with all the displays fresh and responsive. So just give it a try :)
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Forum: Maintenance and Repair Articles
11-06-2023, 05:58 PM
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Thanks to this great repair guide I just managed to fix my lens. A big thumbs up :)
However, some things remain unsaid, and I needed an extra hour to find out myself:
1) Type of screw:
Don't look for a threaded one. You need the kind that goes into wood, plastic or sheet metal. It should be around 3 mm long and loosely fit the flat spring while having a recessed or flush head. You will find suitable screws by cannibalising some broken plastic junk lens like the FAJ 18-35...
2) Drilling:
Take a 1 mm steel or wood drill between your fingers and just let it roll. Aim for the centre of the broken plastic weld and remove any remains upon finishing. While fixing the inner flat spring (the one that usually breaks) you may end up penetrating the plastic wall holding it. Never mind, there is nothing that will collide with your screw slightly sticking out. However, the head is indeed critical. In case it protrudes over the plastic barrel you should file it down. Just keep a magnet close to it to prevent metal dust from entering the lens.
3) Positioning the aperture ring:
Be aware that the aperture is controlled by the stamped steel ring under the bayonet. That means as soon as it is removed any chosen f-stop will be lost, the aperture will close down to f22. So during reassembly you have to choose the f22 position of the aperture ring and/or line up the "1" in 1.7 with the ball bearing.
4) Handling:
After finishing the job don't be too disappointed. No grease in the world will make this crappy aperture assembly work properly... While trying to turn the ring never come too close to the yellow bump, because that is where the ball bearing is located. Your fingers will inevitably compress the flimsy plastic ring and jam the ball bearing even more: The harder you try the harder it will get... Indeed, put the ring into the A position, forget about this disgraceful design and instead enjoy those nice optics.
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Forum: General Photography
10-17-2023, 05:40 PM
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I would actually expect this new Pentax compact film camera to resemble something like the Yashica Electro 35. This would mean a truly appealing high quality retro design with a pro lens. I remember photojournalists even in the 1980s carrying CCN, GTN, GX models as inexpensive pocket cameras whenever they didn't want to take their gear. Their 35/40/45 mm lenses at around f 1,7 were second to none.
Yashica Electro 35 - Camera-wiki.org - The free camera encyclopedia |
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
09-04-2023, 04:25 PM
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The journalist's solution is to get a P-TTL cable and hold off the flash at arm's length. Just don't bother with radio transmitters in the field. Of course, for telephoto lenses that may not be enough. You'd have to take the above picture with the magnificent FA 43 Limited instead.
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Forum: Photographic Industry and Professionals
07-31-2023, 05:50 PM
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Don't know about the US but in Europe you usually have communal hazardous waste collection, i.e. places where you can drop off your canisters with spent developer and fixer. Did so in the 1980s and am doing so now. No "tossing down the drain", please...
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
09-14-2022, 06:10 PM
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Just found a Z-1p / PZ-1p top cover in my closet. Sold the camera 15 years ago so it is of no use to me. The cover has a 2cm crack, which does not reach the edge, and the display window is badly scratched, see the photos for details. After replacing the cover on the camera I glued the crack and kept it as a spare. It is absolutely stable and should be fully functional, coming with all buttons and dials. Mounting is very straightforward, just a matter of some screws, no service or real expertise required, ideal for DIY. Your Z-1p won't look like new with this one, but if your cover is defective or really smashed, this might be a great solution :) Giving it away for 2x the price of postage, located in EU.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
06-13-2022, 07:40 AM
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Really happy about this quality thread. Even the links are all still alive. My MZ-S is running fine, but since it is the older Asahi model with S/N 483nnnnn I thought I'd rather be on the safe side and order one of those gear wheels from Poland. Your sentence about the specifications unfortunately may have some words missing, just to make sure: Do you mean the hole diameter should be set to 1.5 and the gear width to 2.0 or do you mean both values should read 2.0? This way the gear would be ready for pressfitting the way violini describes in comment #20 or would it need some further manual tinkering? Thanks for a swift reply even after more than three years :)
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
06-03-2022, 08:03 AM
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Not quite. The LX retired in 2005 when I went digital with the istD. Ever since it has been lying in darkness stuffed away in some old photobag. I used it for some occasional analogue shooting but I soon preferred my MZ-S since it is similar to the digitals and makes use of modern lenses. The LX thus had plenty of time to at least develop some sticky mirror or glutinous grease, but never did. I recently gave it to my daughter who loves to play around with film. The camera is doing fine, no problem whatsoever, only the battery is slightly week after 20 years. I don't see any reason though why I should not toss it into my motorbike and go to Ukraine, but I will probably rather take the K-1 :lol:
On the other hand, acclaimed veteran photojournalist Günter Zint shot years of West German anti nuclear power protests (Gorleben, Brokdorf) with his MX, enduring truncheons, water cannons and tear gas.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
05-31-2022, 06:51 PM
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The simple K2 is not really worth having since it feels kind of half-functional. Check gofour3's additional feature list and you will understand why. Get the DMD, it's the real thing, you will not regret it, one of the best Pentax cameras ever. Just forget about the motor drive and the data back: Slow and quirky add-ons, not worth the extra weight.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
05-31-2022, 06:16 PM
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Sorry, folks, but I have to step in in defense of the LX :) I bought a first generation one second hand towards the end of the eighties and (ab)used it for years as a photojournalist. I still have it and it still works like a charm. No sticky mirror, no repairs whatsoever, no problems, no servicing... It is just such a wonderfully versatile tool: The ultralong autoexposure, those superfast times on the other end, the mirror lockup. Pull off the viewfinder and put in on the ground or use it over head. The unbeatable TTL flash system and the super exact film advance which works backwards as well. And it is stable, rugged, rain- and dust-proof.
The MX on the other hand... Don't get me wrong, it is a great tiny thing and it was actually my very first camera. Had several of them later before I got the LX. Here are the problems I encountered (not now but 35 years ago): The flimsy film advance lever which could even malfunction. Slipping, prolonged exposure times due to problems with the spring loaded mechanics. The self-exposure lever just dying. Not to speak of the crappy motor drive with all those cast aluminium parts breaking... I ended up giving away the MX bodies to my girlfriends: Small hands and super gentle treatment. They loved it.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
04-26-2022, 07:09 PM
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No, already the K2/K2DMD had Av mode :D
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
04-08-2022, 05:02 AM
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Yes, the Ec-S screen is cheap enough to just give it a try, readily available at any Canon service store and you just have to cut off that protruding nose with the S-letter on it:
Canon Focusing Screen Ec-S | Canon Online Store|Canon Online Store
Just don't forget to take out that copper spacer frame located above the way thinner original Pentax screen.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
04-07-2022, 07:46 AM
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Thanks a lot, photogem, for writing down the process!
I did it with two Mayer Görlitz lenses and it was really worth it. With more ancient M42-lenses with a conical backend you will however need a flanged adapter, that way losing infinity. But even that is not a big problem: Take the backend apart and take it to a metal shop. They will find a way to turn down one of the rings on the lathe to make up for the flange thickness. I think in my case they simply enlarged the space behind the threads enabling the adapter ring to screw on further.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
04-07-2022, 07:22 AM
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This is great stuff:
Pentax-A: 20/f2.8; 24/f2.8; 28/f2; 135/f2.8
Pentax-M: 35/f2; 100/f2.8
Just get a used K-1 and focus in live view. You can also switch the focusing screen to Canon EOS-1 Ec-S-type, that helps a lot. That is the cheapest DIY solution, and if your lucky you don't need any spacer at all for the thicker Canon screen. It doesn't make sense to spend money on APS-C bodies or strange adapters.
Read more at: Pentax Way-Ahead - PentaxForums.com |
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
04-05-2022, 08:25 PM
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Instead of downgrading your camera to M42 simply leave the adapter permanently on the lens and enjoy K-Mount :)
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
02-12-2022, 11:57 AM
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My experience is in line with this old review on Optical Limits: Pentax DA 12-24mm f/4 AL ED [IF] - Review / Test Report
"The center quality decreases slightly towards the long end of the zoom range. At 24mm it is advisable tostop down a little to lift the contrast level and to get a little extra kick in terms of resolution."
Using the lens on a K3 with 24 MP surely didn't help :) Taking the FA 2/24 instead was a real relief. BTW, the 2/24 is a great lens on APS-C, much more satisfying than of FF, just stop it down to 2,4 instead of wide open. Then at 5.6 it is unbeatable. Really profits from the sweat spot effect.
Why did you put that 12-24 on a Sony a7RIII? It is very much not FF compatible, I think even at 24 mm there was trouble when I tried it on my MZ-S.
---------- Post added 02-12-22 at 12:16 PM ----------
Rather don't use a TC with wide angle lenses. With the 77mm is might be OK, but generally speaking you will more often than not get better IQ by just cropping the picture afterwards. With 26 MP at your disposal this will rarely be a problem.
If you want a really great 200mm equivalent for APS-C, get the old FA 2.8/135. A little hard to find, but absolutely worth it. Tiny in size also because of its retractive hood, sharp as hell wide open, not extending due to its IF, great bokeh and colours. They should reissue that lens in a modernized version!
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
02-10-2022, 08:59 AM
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Used the 12-24 myself for a couple of years. While it is very good at the wide end, 12-15 mm, it absolutely sucks at the long end, 20-24 mm. Apart from that, who wants to work with a 4/24 at that size and weight? There was a reason why they came up with the 11-18, which is said to have a much more consistent IQ and starts at 2.8.
When it comes to travel, get a set of limited pancakes instead of honking around those can-size zooms. It also helps to keep low profile while photographing.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
02-08-2022, 09:31 AM
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Similar to Edmunds: 15 + 40 + 70
Then sell off the zooms and get an FA 2.8/135 instead.
This kit means no weight, no volume, no extensive costs, but top notch IQ.
WR is great with the camera body, but I never had trouble with the lenses in heavy weather.
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
11-08-2018, 07:11 PM
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After spending hours crafting ever thinner plastic shims for my new Ec-A screen, I finally understood that I didn't need any shimming at all to achieve perfect focus :D The combined thickness of the original Pentax screen and its brass shim in my case exactly matched the thickness of the Canon screen. So I was in the luckiest of positions :-) At the same time this means that there may be K-1 bodies out there with original shims so thin that the Canon screen always will be too thick...
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Forum: Monthly Photo Contests
09-08-2017, 07:09 AM
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one of the very few interesting pictures...
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
06-16-2016, 09:15 AM
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ukspeedtraps, get that 70-200 and then an FA 1,4/50 for the gap. You don't have to cover every single mm :D And you will be most happy to have at least one lens weighing less than 1,5 kg and fitting into your daypack, I promise you...
Focusrite, the same here: Stay with the 2,8/20 that is one great lens! Forget about the Sigma, get an FA 2/35 instead and the 60-250 will already not be too far away... Just dare go prime :)
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
06-13-2016, 01:44 PM
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