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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
12-11-2016, 03:25 PM
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Their support for the base raw is very good, however, their lack of support for Pixel Shift is a great disappointment. Looking like this may not happen as Ver 10 did not pick it up.
Greatest single issue with pixel shift is the lack of a good raw conversion.
I would love to see C1 support pixel shift as their tool set and work flow is excellent.
Paul Caldwell
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
11-19-2016, 06:14 AM
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BTW the actual scratch is hardly noticeable.
The 35 1.4 is a great lens. Only wish Sigma would make the 20mm 1.4 and new 85mm 1.4 in the K mount.
Paul C
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
11-17-2016, 11:08 AM
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No doubt Pentax may have addressed this with later bodies.
One of these days I will learn to wait for the bugs to be worked out by early adopters
At 999 seconds what did your life battery look like you may have run into a low battery issue. I have seen a few strange things happen once the K1 battery drops below 50 percent.
BTW glad to see your camera is problem free. The white dots only appear on long exposures with LENR off. And on my camera they only seem to be problematic in areas of darker image. So Sky usually is OK. when they become problematic I move to C1 for my processing.
Paul Caldwell
Photos Of Arkansas |
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
11-17-2016, 09:36 AM
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The only fix I know of for Nikon was in th D810. My camera was affected and fixed by Nikon. Note there are still some white dots but they are numbered in hundreds or less not the massive amounts that are visible with ththe K1.
I see plenty of stars with the Nikon may be missing a few but I have never had an issue.
If you are only capturing as jpg you may want to wait and see. If raw it appears it will not have any effect.
Paul Caldwell
Photos Of Arkansas |
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
11-17-2016, 08:22 AM
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It's also sad that anyone would attempt to deny the problem exists, especially since Pentax has now admitted it via this firmware, 1.4 albeit a half assed fixed.
What bothers me the most is that the problem is not new as it existed on D800e early models which I owned (nikon fixed it on later bodies) and of course Nikon over looked it on the D810 but did immediately admit to it and fixed the problem. It is an issue with the Sony 36Mp sensor, a particular noise characteristic, and should have been taken into the design by Pentax. Again, to only offer LENR as the only way to fix the problem is very short sighted at best especially for any form as astro photography.
I am tempted to purchase a 2nd K1 now, just to see if Pentax has made a fix to later bodies. Of course it's hard to tell how long a K1 has been sitting on the shelf as they are not in as great as demand as other brands.
Paul Caldwell
Photos Of Arkansas |
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
11-17-2016, 07:54 AM
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Sad to see 1.4 only effects jpgs. I saw the added note this am when I downloaded the firmware.
Had hoped this could be fixed via firmware only but appears to be exactly same issue Nikon had in 2014! Sad to see Pentax did not do any better research as info on the problem is very easy to find. Pentax added a couple of great features for Astro work which most often requires longer exposures. So this issue should have been caught in beta testing.
Allowing a fix for only jpg output is also short sighted as for night work raw files are greatly preferred.
In the US Pentax has no repair center and I have confidence that Precision Camera can fix this problem via a calibration.
Sadly a very unfortunate situation. I am curious if new K1 bodies don't exhibit the white dot problem?
Paul Caldwell
Photos Of Arkansas |
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
11-16-2016, 03:54 PM
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Yes that is good. I tend to run 1.5 min to 2 minute stacks when possible and that seems to take a bit more out the battery.
Paul Caldwell
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
11-16-2016, 03:27 PM
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In 5 months of use 8K exposures, with the K1, I have found it to be a bit more prone to dust than say a D810 or D750 Nikon.
So far I have had to blow off the sensor a few times, and it needed one wet clean. Used Eclipse and Visible Orange swab. No problems with the cleaning.
Lots of lens changes and all outdoor work.
Paul Caldwell
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
11-16-2016, 03:25 PM
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Astro tracer, works great on exposures where you are attempting to capture a static image, example Milky Way. Here you want no movement i.e star trails as the trails will blur the shot and the Milky Way itself will blur with just a normal exposure much past 25 seconds. Astro tracer will allow much longer exposures, up to 5 minutes, brining in a lot of more light on distance astro features. On average I will expose in the 1.5 to 2.5 minute range. Note, that with a wide rectilinear lens, (like the 15-30), the edges of the image will still blur (or trail) since astro tracer can't accommodate the wider lenses. So keep the feature of your shot as centered as possible if you are using a wide lens.
Astro tracer, to me, is one of the main reasons I moved from Nikon (D810/D750) to the K1, as I can expose night shots at a much lower ISO, thus less noise and more details. Overall an excellent feature, when combined with the GPS.
Make sure you have a green signal on the GPS, and I always go ahead and re-calibrate the GPS if I move more than 15 feet. If your image is still showing movement in the center at 1 to 2 minutes then you should consider re-calibrating the GPS.
For star trails, you really don't want astro tracer, as it will defeat them.
For star trails, I would recommend you stack multiple exposures, instead of one long exposure. Stacking will allow you to pull in a lot more of the fainter stars and give you a better over image especially if you work with partial moonlight to help illuminate your foreground (something I always do).
Here is a short article I wrote several years ago, but it can give you some ideas on setup/capture and post processing on the star trail type of photography.
So far I have gotten about 1.5 hours on a single K1 battery, which is not quite long enough for a good star trails session, so I will use the grip with another K1 battery. The grip with AA NiMh, does not perform well at all. The K1 does not see the batteries with a full charge and only gives you around 30 minutes before you get a low battery warning, whereas with another K1 battery, you can easily get 3 hours.
You will need to use a intervalometer to stack. The K1 has a intervalometer, but I am not sure it if allows a timer function, (most DSLR's will only go to 30 seconds max with an internal intervalometer. There as many 3rd party ones on the market, that plug into the mic port on the K1.
09/23/14 Using Stacking for better Night Photography results @ Photos Of Arkansas
Paul Caldwell
Here is a vertical shot from late summer and you can see slight movement towards the top of the frame, again since I used a 15mm lens. Illumination done with a lantern.
[IMG] Roark Bluff at Midnight on the Buffalo River by paul caldwell, on Flickr[/IMG]
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
10-08-2016, 07:52 AM
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One from last weekend. Had no choice but to shoot with the M Way towards the top of the shot, thus trails occurred due to retro-focus lens and Astrotracer issues. It's interesting to note that it's possible that iOptron traced shots may not have this same problem as I have seen several from MF and the 28mm F 4.5 lens (17mm 35mm equivalent) which seem to handle the edges better. This is actually a combination of several files, Astrotracer for the sky, then a series of long exposures, non traced for the Bluff illuminated with a single lantern.
Paul C
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
10-06-2016, 01:00 PM
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Focus shift on the 14-24 is present, but greatly over stated as an issue, as least to me. I have used the 14-24 since early 2012 and still find it to be an excellent optic. Yes it's a bit dated, but still can perform very well on the D810.
The 15-30, another great lens, less flare issues than the 14-24, especially side flare where the 14-24 can ruin a shot. My 15-30, is very good from 15-24mm, after which it gets a bit less than perfect, but since I wanted it mainly for the 15-24mm range I kept it.
Both 14-24 and 15-30 are big heavy optics, not filter friendly, but they work. The Nisi filter holder is what I am using on the 15-30.
Personally, I find that the 15-30 is better than my 14-24 wide open, and by F3.5 is excellent where as the 14-24 needs to be at around F6.3 to F8. Focus Peaking on the K1 makes the manual focusing so much easier.
Paul C
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
10-02-2016, 01:27 PM
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From a few nights ago, K1, 15-30 ISO 500, 46 seconds total. Astrotracer. As Milky Way is off center, there were some trails through the Milky, but not enough that I felt it mattered. Other option was trying to wade out in waist deep water, but at night felt it was not the best idea.
Paul C
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
09-30-2016, 04:14 PM
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It is a very well designed feature. I mainly use the 15-30 which trails about the same as the 14mm Rokinon. Below is a work in progress still need to pull in the non tracked base.
Key with ultra wides is frame shot with Milky Way in the center of possible.
Paul C
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
09-29-2016, 07:41 AM
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Even with the camera powered off, you can still at times feel the mechanism moving around a bit, when you pick up the camera, at least on the K1's have used. No problems with images, just took a bit of getting used to for me.
Paul C
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
09-25-2016, 07:24 AM
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Very well said. My experiences are the same. Could not figure why LR works better sometimes than others. Turning MC off helps a lot. Silkypix handles them so much better I am trying to get used to the interface but it's different for sure.
Paul C
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
09-23-2016, 12:41 PM
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Currently pixel shift not supported. And DxO reported back to me that it may never be. Not a high priority
Paul C
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
09-22-2016, 01:49 PM
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It's fair to say, Pentax has not made a big in road in the current full frame market. It's too bad the K1 came out this year, instead of mid 2015. But the bigger issue is the flange focal distance issue. As Nikon, and Canon glass can't be adapted to the K mount, lots of photographers have just passed. Where as the Sony A7 series is much easier to justify.
Me, the benefits were worth it and I am slowing moving all of my Nikon gear except a view lenses and a D810.
IMO it help Pentax a lot if they could get Adobe to improve on their current pixel shift conversion and or get Phase One to add it to their Capture One software (only standard K1 raw are supported)
The current software that supports pixel shift, besides LR, is pretty limited in feature function and none of them offer the cataloging features of C1 or LR, or the tools sets which I use a lot.
Silkypix developer Studio Pro does an OK job, but it's workflow is a bit odd to me and their masking needs improvement (in the way you draw or create a mask). But Developer Studio pro gets an excellent pixel shift conversion.
Paul C
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Forum: Pentax Full Frame
09-22-2016, 11:10 AM
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I hear you on the QC for Rokinon/Samyang. I tried 4 14mm for Nikon before I got on centered, Pentax only took 2, and the 2nd one is excellent.
I am still hoping their new 20mm 1.8 will be a good lens, but nothing out on that yet.
The other I am waiting on is the Irix 15mm 2.4. As it's filter friendly, if it works well, may replace the 15-30 with it. Still not sure how it will handle coma however.
Paul C
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Forum: Pentax Full Frame
09-22-2016, 10:23 AM
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Very nice shot indeed.
I fully agree stacking works with deep space objects, and can work on the style of work I do, however I just find I can get by much better with the Astrotracer feature. I don't work the deep space shots, but for sure would be stacking on those. You are also right that the K1 and 15-30 is a heavy combination. But it's solid for sure.
There is a bit of variance in the 15-30's of all the lenses I have purchased, I have had more trouble with that lens. I need the 15mm side of things so rectilinear causes it's own set of issues.
For the work I do, mainly landscape, combined with Milky way, I just find the results much better. With Nikon I was forced to shoot at min 3200 or even 6400, with a faster lens. All of which means, coma problems, (which IMO look much worse than the slight trailing I see), noise, much more noise, DOF at 1.4 to 2.0 non existent. Causing a lot more work in the foreground. Stacking still creates a blurred foreground. You are correct on the F 2.8 vs F 4.0 and I do tend to stay more wide open now. The F 4.0 to 5.0 gain in DOF is lost due to the blur of the tracing. So an additional frame or two must be taken for that. I have tried many of the best 1.4 lenses for Nikon and really none of them are coma free, and the coma issue just ruins a shot at least for me. This true also for most of the fast Sigma glass, only the lowly Samyang (pun) can produce a coma free output wide open, but it's such a pain to focus. The best Nikon the D810A can do better but at 2x the cost of a single K1 and the D810A is rather limited for other photography.
I looked at the iOption, but again weight and setup at night were more than I was looking for, but again I agree results can be amazing. I may still go there but will still have the same issue with the wide lenses I need so for now staying with the Pentax feature.
Wasn't trying to state stacking is bad, by any means. I still stack for star trails all the time using partial moonlight for illumination and love the results, but it's a lot of work for a shot most people don't being to appreciate the time involved, and also now all believe it's fake. sad.
The advantages of the startracer just work better for me in the type of shots I am trying to produce.
Paul C
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
09-22-2016, 07:57 AM
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White dots are just part of sensor design. I have worked with 2 K1 cameras. Early ship and one from 2 weeks ago. Identical issues.
Net. Shoot a long exposure at a higher ISO 400 and up you will get white dots in the areas of shadow. Not to be confused with normal nose which on the K1 shows up as a faint grain.
Unlike Nikon which had the same problem the dots only seem to show up in shadows for me where as with Nikon the entire frame had them.
Features like pixel shift and Astrotracer over time seem to make the problem a bit worse.
Pentax USA is totally aware of the issue and their answer is use LEN which does remove them but is very wasteful on battery life and heats up the camera. As for a fix based on the posted attempts that were done to some K1 camera overseas I will just take the dots.
Pentax USA uses Precision Camera for repairs and personally I don't think they are setup for such a repair but that is just my feeling. This requires more than just dropping in parts.
One fix is to use Capture One for the raw conversion as it takes all the dots out with no loss of details.
Paul C
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
09-22-2016, 05:40 AM
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Just wanted to add that the 35 is an amazing optic.
Used it with Nikon tried to get Sigma to mount swap but it was to X pensive and they would not guarantee the swap.
One thing I sure miss is the 20. 1.4 Art and wish Sigma would add more lenses from the Art line up to Pentax. Hoping the new Samyang 20mm 1.8 will be a winner.
Paul C
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
09-22-2016, 03:48 AM
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Yes, crop mode is set to Auto.
Paul C
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Forum: Pentax Full Frame
09-21-2016, 07:42 PM
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The White dots, are a form of noise, unique to the Sony 36MP sensor. Was not a problem on the D800, was a problem on the D800e, (fixed on later models silently) Was an immediate problem on the D810 and fixed with a recall. I have used all of said cameras for long exposures at night. The fix for the D810 allows the Nikon to operate up to around 10 minutes before the dots become problematic. With Nikon the dots were throughout the files evenly, with Pentax, they only seem to show in the shadow areas. At least for me.
With Astrotracer, the dots can become a bit more problematic especially after operation over 30 minutes.
My average exposure with Astrotracer is 2 minutes, longest 3.5 shortest 1 minute. Iso ranges from 400 to 3200 average is 1600 at F4.0.
With star trail stacks up to 2 hours, of 2 minute exposures with moonlight adding illumination, the dots are not a problem in the night sky or areas lit by the moon, only in shadows.
With Astrotracer, my skies seem fine but again the darker areas can become problematic, but since they are blurred anyway, I don't worry about it, and just take one exposure for the foreground non traced with LEN on. This takes care of the vast majority of the dots and noise.
Warmer outdoor temps make this issue worse as does high humidity.
In normal use, I limit LEN, as it's wasteful in that you are locked out of the camera for the same time of the previous exposure. This is draining battery life, possibly adding more heat, and for sure can cause you to miss a shot due to changing conditions.
Still overall very impressed with the entire K1 camera and the Astrotracer feature. Image below is a 2 minute exposure on the night sky, at F 3.2 or 4.0, can't remember. Prefer not to have to use F 2.8 as the shallower DOF will be problematic. Sky shot combined with a 1.5 and 1 minute non traced image for the bluff and river. Since I was using a 15mm lens, I should have centered the M Way in the frame, but didn't think of that on that night.
Paul C
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Forum: Pentax Full Frame
09-21-2016, 07:29 PM
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As you grow older, you may find that the screen is one of the best things ever invented. Being able to frame a low shot with Live View, with the screen articulated out is a huge benefit. When shooting in vertical mode for panos again invaluable. I had wished for years for this on Nikon or Canon, but they have never offered it.
Working at night, either with astrotracer or star trails, again a huge advantage as you are checking your shots. Not having to bend around to view the LCD is priceless.
Paul C
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Forum: Pentax Full Frame
09-21-2016, 07:22 PM
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Astrotracer, was one of the main reasons for my move to the K1 from Nikon. I did not want to purchase a tracking base, due to added weight, and setup times.
Overall, I have to say that it's a very impressive feature, and can produce some excellent images of the night sky.
Main limitation I have found is that the for my locations I need 15mm to 20mm for night sky and foreground. Mainly using the 15-30 in the 15mm to 20mm range, F 4 to F5. 1.5 to 3 minutes ISO ranges from 800 to 1600. The rectilinear nature of the 15-30 does force you to have the Milky Way in the center of the shot, or it will blur as you move to the edge. The stars of course trail also no mater what, but for my work, that just adds to the nature of the shot as the trails are not a long as a normal 2 minute exposure.
When in focus the details are amazing. Vastly superior to anything I captured with Nikon or Canon in the 20 second range at ISO 3200 up to 12K. Tried the stacking methods also, which helps on noise but just adds a lot more work and still can't beat a single 2 minute exposure. Plus this type of work requires a fast lens in the 1.4 to 1.8 range and most of these in the 14mm to 20mm range have coma issues. With the Astrotracer, you can now be in the F4 to F5 range, which also helps on over DOF and composition.
Have learned that you need to calibrate the GPS from the Astrotracer screen, not the GPS screen as the two calibrations don't seem to talk to each other. So far have not had any problems with the GPS locking and staying locked. Calibration is always something that is a bit tricky as doing it with a camera strap on is impossible (at least for me).
Results just keep improving, my only issue is the dark band I get at times at the top of the frame. Not a light leak, but appears to be a known issue on some K1's. But the fixes I have seen make the band look even worse at times, so I will just live with it for now.
Vertical shots work great also.
Paul C
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