|
Forum: Pentax K-3 III Monochrome
10-05-2023, 05:57 PM
|
| |
Park Ruin
K-3 III Monochrome, 35/2 @f/8, 1/250 sec, ISO 200, Orange Filter
 |
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 III Monochrome
09-30-2023, 12:33 PM
|
| |
Prairie Beauty
90/2.5 (Tamron Adaptall-2 52B) @F5.6, 1/125, ISO 400
 |
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 III Monochrome
02-19-2024, 10:23 AM
|
| |
My understanding of the use of blue filters with B&W is from my copy of the first edition of the book 'Way Beyond Monochrome' (https://www.amazon.com/Way-Beyond-Monochrome-Traditional-Photography/dp/0240...ntaxforums-20&). In that book the authors stated that the human eye have a reduced sensitivity to the color blue, whereas film (and digital sensors) are as sensitive to blue as they are other colors. This is why a blue sky looks brighter in an unfiltered monochrome photograph than what our eyes would normally expect. Adding a yellow filter - which absorbs blue light - reduces the amount of blue light reaching the sensor/film to about what the human eye would perceive, so a photograph of a blue sky looks more-or-less how we would expect it to look.
And orange and red filters absorb more blue light than a yellow filter does - making the sky even darker.
And consider shadows - unless the shadow is inky black, there is always some light in shadows. Where does that light come from? Often it comes from the sky - look up and you will see a blue sky. The blue light from the sky lightens shadows, and orange and red filters absorb that blue light, making the shadows darker! Yellow absorbs a bit of this blue, but it's not real noticeable.
The red #25/25A filter absorbs everything *but* red light, so things that absorb red light - green plants - get even darker.
=-=-=-=-=-
In regards to human lighting...
Incandescent lighting is very red in color, so there is no blue to filter out. Portrait photographers used to use different filters (like X0 green) when photographing people with incandescent lights. I don't know if they used any outdoor filters (yellow/orange/red) for portraits under incandescent lights. I think they may have used green or blue filters to make lips go black when they were looking for dramatic look in glamor photography. Makeup for use in B&W photography is an arcane art...
Florescent lighting was always variable and always a problem. There were filters to use to 'correct' color film when used with florescent lighting, but I don't recall any filters to use with B&W
LED lighting is relatively new, and I don't know what guidelines there are (if any) for shooting with monochrome sensors of subjects lit by LEDs. I suspect that no filters would be best with LEDs, but that's just a guess.
Blue - outside of the sky - is a fairly uncommon color in nature. That's why - outside of making a blue sky darker - we don't see much of an impact with a yellow filter with scenic photography. Humans like blues, so we have a lot of it in clothing, and in the things we make. That's why a yellow filter works well around people - it only darkens blues to what we would expect, and leaves the other colors alone.
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 III Monochrome
06-27-2023, 04:39 PM
|
| |
Maquoketa Caves - Middle Dancehall Cave
40/2.8 Limited, f/8, .6 sec, ISO 800 Yellow filter
 |
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 III Monochrome
02-13-2024, 08:46 PM
|
| |
I've found that when I'm shooting for pleasure, I shoot most of my K-3 III Monochrome photos the same way I have since my film days - with a trio of lenses:
- Wide (equivalent to a full frame 28mm-ish)
- Normal (on full frame about 50mm)
- Short tele (full frame 85mm-ish to 100mm-ish)
I shot with that trio of focal lengths with all my film cameras (35mm, 645, and 4x5 - minus 'short tele' for 4x5) and digital cameras (APS-C, full frame, and medium format). Sure, I have both wider and longer lenses, but most of my shooting is done with that trio of focal lengths - no matter what format I'm shooting in. It's how I see my compositions - call it 'my style' if you will.
I have a number of 35mm lenses (normal for APS-C) that I shoot with on my K-3 III Monochrome, so I admittedly haven't gotten around to shooting with my own 31/1.8 although I'm sure it takes great pictures for you (and will for me, too whenever I ever get around to trying it out.)
We all have our own preferences in regards to our camera equipment, and I have come to understand that some lenses inspire my photography more than others. Sometimes it's the combination of both the gear and the subject. In any case, I'm trying to do a better job of 'listening' to my inspirations and learning to go with them.
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 III Monochrome
12-12-2023, 04:40 PM
|
| |
Went to my city's botanical center for a bit of photo therapy today.
Amaryllis
K-3 III Monochrome, 35/2.8 Limited Macro @f6.3, 1/125 sec, ISO 640. Green X1 filter
 |
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 III Monochrome
05-21-2023, 06:50 PM
|
| |
Finally getting around to trying my camera out. I really enjoy shooting with the camera, and the post process feels like you're actually working in B&W...
K3M, 35/2.8 Limited, f/8, 1/320, ISO 1600, orange filter (I did no noise reduction in post)
 |
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 III Monochrome
11-16-2023, 07:25 PM
|
| |
Looking into the Shop
K-3 III Monochrome, K 35/3.5 @ f/8, .7 sec, ISO 200, Orange filter
 |
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 III Monochrome
12-23-2023, 05:56 PM
|
| |
When I've looked at data sheets for individual B&W films, what I've seen is that *every* different B&W emulsion has a different spectral sensitivity. Illford films have different spectral sensitivities from Kodak films, and both differ from the sensitivity of Fujifilm emulsions. Even within a brand, the sensitivity of emulsions are all different - T-Max 400 spectral sensitivities are different from Tri-X 400, and Tech Pan was really different with an 'extended red sensitivity'.
B&W films use sensitizing dyes incorporated into their emulsions to tweak the spectral sensitivity of the film. I suspect there are trade-offs resulting from the incorporation of these dyes, which is why every film ends up with differing spectral sensitivities, but I've not ran across any reference to what these issues are in any of the (film era) photo reference works that I've checked, so this is merely speculation.
Because of the varying spectral sensitivities of B&W films, I would urge caution in making blanket statements about how the spectral sensitivity of B&W film (in a broad sense - referring to all films) differs from digital. I think it's a safe bet that the sensor in the K-3 III Monochrome is gonna have a different spectral sensitivity than 'film' because it appears that *EVERY* B&W film's spectral sensitivity is different from every other film. In that, the K3Mono is no different than any other film...
If there is a statistically/visually significant difference between the spectral sensitivity of the K3Mono's sensor and the range of spectral sensitivities of current commercially-available B&W films - that would be worthy of note. The analysis would need to show that the K3Mono's spectral sensitivity differs from (for example) the different versions of T-Max, Tri-X, FP4Plus, HP5Plus, Delta, PanF, Acros, etc.
However, I've not seen evidence of this kind of difference. I did a lot of B&W film photography between the 90s through the early 2000s - virtually all taken using a contrast filter, and I have taken thousands of pictures with my K-3Mono - also virtually all taken with a contrast filter. I've not seen any real difference in behavior of contrast filters in digital versus film. Because of my experience, I'm skeptical that there is a real difference. But if there is, I'd like to know more about it.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
From what I can remember - plus a review of a number of film-era references, I can't see that the differing spectral sensitivities of emulsions was ever a significant factor in choosing an emulsion. I have found references to the use of ortho versus panchromatic films, but I've seen nothing about the need to select an emulsion because of the spectral sensitivity of a given emulsion. Now, I will admit that Ferrari with their red cars *may* have had - at one time - a corporate press photography B&W emulsion preference, and the same might have existed for John Deere because of their green tractors, but for general photography I have seen nothing. It seems that the spectral sensitivies of the films were all different, but nothing seems to indicate that the differences were significant enough to affect film choice, except possibly in some rare cases.
I agree that spectral sensitivity is a good subject to discuss, but I'd like to see more information and less speculation. Acoufap brought some information to the table, and that's great. I've attached links to data sheets of some current films below that include spectral sensitivity plots. There are a lot more on the web, but they're easy to find.
T-Max 400 Data Sheet: https://imaging.kodakalaris.com/sites/default/files/files/products/f4043_tmax_400.pdf
Tri-X 320 & 400 Data Sheet: https://imaging.kodakalaris.com/sites/default/files/files/resources/f4017_TriX.pdf
FP4Plus Data Sheet: https://www.ilfordphoto.com/amfile/file/download/file/1919/product/690/
Delta 400 Data Sheet: https://www.ilfordphoto.com/amfile/file/download/file/1915/product/685/ |
|
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
12-20-2023, 04:49 PM
|
| |
I've shown a lot of people photographs on my Samsung tablets. I use higher-end tablet models - S6 and S7+, and have found them quite satisfactory. Cheaper Samsung models (their A line of tablets, for example), will generally have a cheaper display.
Samsung tablets have a Vivid/Natural Display setting, which I have set to Natural. I've not had any problems with images (both color and B&W) not looking right on these displays.
My online photos are in SmugMug, so I use the SmugMug app to show my pictures - it has a local storage option, and I pick that option so that so I don't have to drag pictures across the internet when I'm showing them.
I prefer to show photos using my Galaxy Tab S6 tablet - it's an older model, but one with a nice display. It's also quite thin and light, which may or may not be a consideration for you. My S7+ is a thicker, heavier model, and while it also has a nice display, the weight of the S7+ would not be fun to hold for very long. (The S7+ is a nice tablet to browse the web with, and it's what I'm using to compose this reply with - albeit with the tablet resting on a stand. And for the record, I'm using a bluetooth keyboard and mouse, too)
If you use an iPhone, I'd recommend you go with an iPad. If you use an Android phone, Android tablets will already be familar to you, so they will generally work best for you. Like 'em or not, Samsung is the leading manufacturer of Android tablets. I'm not a huge fan of Samsung, but in general their stuff works and works well.
If you need to watch your $$$, B&H sells used tablets (and computers and cameras and lenses, etc.). I picked up my used Galaxy Tab S6 from them a couple of years ago and have been quite satisfied with it. B&H's used department is worth checking out.
|
|
Forum: Pentax KP
10-07-2019, 02:34 PM
|
| |
Took this last Monday in Spearfish Canyon in South Dakota. KP w/20-40
F11, 1/2 second, 20mm
 |
|
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
12-14-2023, 05:50 PM
|
| |
Hibiscus
K-3 III Monochrome, HD 35/2.8 Limited @f6.3, 1/125 sec, ISO 1250, green X1 filter
 |
|
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
12-12-2023, 06:27 PM
|
| |
Color filters:
- Lighten the same (or close) color, and
- Darken complementary colors.
This particular flower had reddish/purplish stripes, and an overall tinge of light green so the choice of filter wasn't clear. (And... I didn't like the colors of the flower that much. BUT, I thought the colors would work well in B&W - and that's why I shot it!)
I tried a couple of different color filters - this is the red (at least I'm pretty sure it is - might be orange), and in another shot tried an X1 green (which is pretty green).
The red filter lightened the reddish/purplish stripes a bit, and darkened the greenish tinge a bit, making the flower slightly gray.
The green filter darkened the stripes dramatically, and lightened the greenish tinge, making the flower pretty white.
I thought that the photo with the green filter was a bit much - too contrasty for me at least (see below). But it's very much a judgement call that a photographer makes when you take your shot. You (and many others) may prefer the contrasty version, and that's fine.
That's why I was shooting today - the different colors of flowers call for different filters. It was kind of a 'pop quiz' to see how how well I did.
=-=-=-=-
Now, normally when I'm shooting, I don't fuss over filter choice too much. Here's my usual scenic photography decision tree:
- Shooting in public, with people and human-made things - yellow (unless there's a particular object that I want to make stand out)
- Shooting nature, trees, the usual yellow-ish flowers - orange (red works too, but can make shadows go too dark. Back in the film era, I shot a lot more with a red filter)
- Brick buildings - orange (film era rule of thumb)
- Mountains, dramatic clouds (particularly in winter) - red
Hoya has a decent intro to the use of color filters: How Black & White Filters Work ? Hoya Filters
There's no right or wrong with choosing a filter. Just try things and see what works for you!
Hope this helps!
Same details as above, except ISO 2500, and an X1 green filter
 |
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 III Monochrome
12-14-2023, 05:47 PM
|
| |
Hibiscus
K-3 III Monochrome, HD 35/2.8 Limited @f6.3, 1/125 sec, ISO 1250, green X1 filter
|
|
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
12-12-2023, 05:09 PM
|
| |
Hit my local botanical center for some photo therapy today
Amaryllis II
K-3 III Monochrome, 35/2.8 Limited Macro @f6.3, 1/125 sec, ISO 3200, red filter (I think)
 |
|
Forum: Post Your Photos!
12-12-2023, 04:47 PM
|
| |
Used a green X1 filter when taking the shot.
B&W isn't commonly used for flower photography any more, but it used to be. Wanted to get some practice in with using B&W contrast filters when shooting flowers.
|
|
Forum: Post Your Photos!
12-12-2023, 05:00 PM
|
| |
I can't remember what flower this is.
Orange filter
 |
|
Forum: Post Your Photos!
12-12-2023, 05:54 PM
|
| |
| |
|
Forum: Mini-Challenges, Games, and Photo Stories
10-06-2023, 06:20 PM
|
| |
Arcs and Lines
KP, 10-17 Fisheye at 10mm, f/8. 4 sec, ISO 100
 |
|
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
12-08-2023, 05:56 PM
|
| |
Go with what you know - I wouldn't recommend adding any new photo equipment at this point.
And FWIW, I went on a 11-day tour last year. I took my KP, a 16-85 and a 55-300... and a GR IIIx. I never used the 55-300, used the 16-85 a few times, and took the most - and the best - photos with the GR IIIx.
I have the Ricoh belt pouch for the GR IIIx and so I can pull the camera out, power it up with bringing it to my eye, get my shot, shut it off while returning it to the pouch, and have my hands free again all in about 5 seconds. The GR's 'macro mode' is great for when you encounter something that calls for an extreme close up.
I use the Think Tank Pee Wee Pixel Pocket Rocket to hold batteries and SD cards for my GR IIIx. It can hold 4 batteries and 3 SD cards, enough for a heavy day of shooting and fits easily in a pocket.
After my experiences on that trip, I will probably take only the GR IIIx on my next (non-photo-specific) trip. If I was *only* doing photography, I'd take a DSLR and a few lenses, but in a group - or with your significant other - I think the GR IIIx is an excellent compromise that gives up nothing in photo quality.
|
|
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
11-27-2023, 03:09 PM
|
| |
The website 'Reid Reviews' has reviewed multiple generations of the Leica Monochrom and recently reviewed the K-3 III Monochrome. Now before anyone dashes off to search for the site, please note that the website's content is behind a paywall. I've subscribed to this website for a couple of years, and recently renewed my subscription, so as you could probably guess, I think the subscription cost is worth it for me.
Reid Reviews tests a lot of Leica equipment, as well as third party lenses for Leica, plus a fair amount of Fujifilm and some Pentax. Other brands are occasionally covered. His lens testing is almost all primes.
The K-3 III Monochrome review isn't head-to-head with a Leica because, as the OP noted the Leica Monochroms are in a... shall we say, a somewhat higher price bracket (plus a few other differences...). He did compare converted monochrome images taken by the color K-3 III to those taken by the Monochrome model. His comparisons were primarily for a) resolution and b) noise at different ISOs. He also looked at spectral response.
The website is operated by a professional photographer who a) does a lot of B&W photography and b) tests equipment by (gasp!) actually taking pictures with the equipment he's testing - and then looking closely at the pictures. So the reviews are a little different than what you would get on a more tech-driven website.
I've read the K-3 III Monochrome reviews on Reid Reviews, and - as an enthusiastic K-3 III Monochrome owner - I have to say I agree with what he has to say about the K3M. I even learned some things that I had not observed on my own.
So... The good news is that someone has tested both cameras and posted their findings. The bad news is that - since the owner of Reid Reviews doesn't run ads or take money from camera manufacturers - his only source of income for the website is subscriptions, so if you what to read what he wrote, you're gonna need to subscribe.
...I'm not trying to drum up business for his website, but I thought the review on Reid Reviews was good. The OP of this thread asked if anyone had tested the Leica and the K3M, and Reid Reviews has.
My apologies if I've stepped on any toes. That was not my intention.
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 III Monochrome
08-18-2023, 10:15 AM
|
| |
Lockset
K-3 III Monochrome, K 50/1.4 @5.6, .7 sec, ISO 200. Orange Filter
 |
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 III Monochrome
08-09-2023, 05:38 PM
|
| |
After the Storm:
K 35/3.5 @f5.6, ISO 200, 1/45 sec. Orange filter
 |
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 III Monochrome
08-03-2023, 08:02 PM
|
| |
The three most common filters used with B&W are yellow, orange & red (at least for scenic photography).
Yellow is the most subtle of the three filters, and back in the B&W film days, yellow was the filter you used most often. A yellow filter is often claimed to make things in B&W look 'more natural', as sometimes colored objects appear lighter or darker than we think they 'should' when their colors are translated into B&W gray tones. A lot of people used to shoot B&W with a yellow filter on their lens almost all the time.
Red has a pretty dramatic effect - it darkens greens and blues. Foliage gets really dark, as do (low humidity) blue skies. And shadows get dark. Sometimes maybe too dark. Back in the film days, I suspect that I over-used my red filter, so I'm trying to not automatically reach for it like I used to...
Orange sits in between yellow and red in it's effects - orange adds more contrast outdoors than the yellow filter, less than the red. Orange darkens blue a lot - and shadows have a lot of blue light...
For the indoor shot - the day was overcast - I was trying the orange filter to assess the impact on how the color of the pews was rendered in B&W. The pews were were finished with very worn varnish. With white walls, light brown-ish painted trim, gray floor, and the worn varnish of the wood pews, I needed to make sure the tones of the pews was clearly separated from the painted trim. It seemed that the orange filter made the wear in varnish somewhat more visible, which aided in visually separating the pews from the trim.
For the outdoor flower shot, I was looking to help separate the flower from the background, and so went with orange (darker shadows, darker foliage). Red might have also have been a good choice, but I didn't try it - I was shooting handheld, and the orange filter was slow enough already.
I almost always have a colored contrast filter on my lens when shooting B&W - either yellow, orange or red. I have green filters, but since I mostly shoot scenics, I haven't used my green filters much.
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 III Monochrome
07-29-2023, 02:04 PM
|
| |
I'm about to start my 3d week as Artist-in-Residence at the Herbert Hoover National Historic Site. I've been shooting most of my work with the K-3 III Monochrome, using vintage Pentax K-mount lenses (and an old Tamron Adaptall-2 90mm 52B). I've been learning a lot in this effort, but I'm having a great time.
The National Park Service has Artists-in-Residence at many places across the US. It's a volunteer position that you need to apply for, but if you're so inclined, it's a great opportunity! NPS Artist-in-Residence info.
The first image was shot with an A 24/2.8 (supposedly the same optical formula as the K 24/2.8) @ f/11, ISO 200, 1/20 sec. Orange filter
The second image was shot with a K 35/3.5 @ f/5.6, ISO 200, 1/60 sec. Orange filter
|
