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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 7 Hours Ago  
K-1 with DA* 50-135mm and DA 1.4x TC - real world experience?
Posted By mikesbike
Replies: 12
Views: 453
My thinking exactly. For tele needs, especially faster-aperture, I generally just switch to my KP, often with this lens. I've been thinking about that TC too. I've often wondered how or if it would function on a FF body like my K-1 II. I sometimes complement the DA* 50-135mm with the DA* 200mm f/2.8 but the TC would be a smaller carry if not needing f/2.8 especially. Sometimes when I'm out and about with my K-1 II, I might want to include this great lens, now that I know it is possible- thanks to this post! Thank you for bringing this up! I do like my D-FA 28-105mm, but as an alternative this would give me more reach into the tele range and more aperture. Might possibly couple it with my old but very good Tokina 28-70mm ATX f/2.6-2.8 Pro II.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 1 Day Ago  
Lens decision: wide angle lens for landscapes on K-1 II
Posted By mikesbike
Replies: 14
Views: 506
I sure love my D-FA 21mm f/2.4 DC WR Limited! A beautiful lens yielding beautiful results! Balances beautifully and easy-carrying on the K-1 II, and good for many uses!
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 1 Day Ago  
I want to support Pentax, but…
Posted By mikesbike
Replies: 250
Views: 8,180
Ha, ha- I love it!

---------- Post added 03-27-24 at 09:21 PM ----------



Well for something new but great, you might think about what a deal B&H is now offering for the K-1 II. I have had the KP, a great camera I love dearly, for over 6 years now, and yet a couple of years back when the first great deal came for the K-1 II I went for it. Now it is another $100 off! I went for the deal where the very fine D-FA 28-105mm DC WR lens is prepackaged by Pentax and now an additional $80 off for the lens in that deal. This is a wondeful camera. Great image quality, marvelous resolution. The deal is on for this month, I believe. I now have and use both APS-C and the FF formats. I have wound up using my FF equipment far more than I thought I would. Both have their advantages. APS-C for compact conveneince and more for telephoto, while the K-1 II is better in faster aperture wide angle. The same framed image shot at the same distance both using quality lenses, the 36mp K-1 II image will have more resolution.

A lot depends on your lenses too. One example for a less expensive faster prime lens available for FF is the HD FA 35mm f/2- very good! It will provide some wide angle on the K-1 II, but none on APS-C.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 1 Day Ago  
Finding it tough going…
Posted By mikesbike
Replies: 85
Views: 3,054
Yep, it is basically a point-and-shoot camera. But from your description, with my Pentax gear I would have no trouble at all nailing any shot along the way without fuss. Depends on how you have set up the camera to function, and how YOU can function. Speaking of motion, this is something one often would want to control by controlling shutter speed. This might also require your controlling ISO settings. Sometimes one wants to show motion effects in the scene, not wanting to freeze motion. You might need to control depth-of-field (DOF) perhaps reducing it to blur background to make a subject stand out from it, so you need a wider aperture than the camera has chosen.

Your K-5, along with most other Pentax DSLR models since, has access to the Pentax Hyper System. IF you want fast automatic exposure, the camera setting both aperture and shutter speed, due to frequent changing of lighting or background, shoot in the "P" mode, not in the "auto" mode, so you can access this function. When in "P" mode and you wish a different shutter speed or aperture, just select what you want by using the front finger dial or the rear thumb dial, and the camera will simply instantly obey! You have switched your camera to Av or Tv operation without having to first switch your mode dial setting before selecting your desired preference. You can instantly regain full "P" operation with a touch of the green button. You cannot make on-the-fly changes of this kind with cameras of other brands.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 1 Day Ago  
Finding it tough going…
Posted By mikesbike
Replies: 85
Views: 3,054
This is the kind of thing I do NOT want in my DSLR cameras. I want control, not the camera controlling what to focus on. Furthermore, I just took a look at the Canon M50 II. It is obviously a snapshooter's model having interchangeable lens capability. It is nearly devoid of instantaneously-available on-body controls. No doubt a lot of menu-diving here to effectuate on the spot changes.

---------- Post added 03-27-24 at 07:56 PM ----------



This does not sound at all like a difficult assignment to me. I rarely use my old K-5 anymore, but when I do it is usually with my DA 18-135mm DC WR lens. I have found the origianl K-5 to have some focus issies with certain lenses, but with the K-5 this lens still seems to perform well- AF being quite fast and accurate. However, I do not shoot with any of my camera models set in the green "Auto" mode, nor do I leave the AF setting in the standard auto-select with all AF points active. No telling then which AF points the camera will "think" best for the scene. Again, I like conrol.

Some AF issues of the original K-5 were improved in the K-5 II. I more often shoot with the K-5 IIs, which I still like very much. However, I usually shoot with a KP, which brings further improvements in many ways. I recently shot a wrestling tournament, as a friend is a wrestling coach for both high school and lower grades. Here I am following often fast-moving wrestlers around a mat trying to guess when meaningful action will occur and grab the shot when it does. I get very close to 100% accuracy. I have also used this lens for the same purpose on my K-5 IIs and even my old K-5 with success. I do not depend on the camera doing its thing with AF auto select, etc. I use center-point only, having developed good panning technique, and use the half-press, focusing like crazy, pulling the trigger at exactly the right time. I also use the 1/2 press to freeze focus where I want it, then move the camera to compose the shot. Otherwise, If I think there is an advantage for a particular action, I might use continuous focus with only a central group of AF points active.

Yes, the K-5 does tend to under-expose slightly. Probably set up to protect highlights from being blown out. But in bright day scenes, not enough to matter, and might make colors a little richer. Previous models, namely the K20D and K200D, were much worse with their under-exposure. The KP has much more accurate metering, and I've noticed AF has been faster and better, even with screw-driven lenses. The KP is analogous to the M50 II only in its compact dimensions and 24mp resolution, otherwise it is a very different instrument. Completely different concept- loaded with controls, a concept targeting advaned and pro photographers wanting a top-flight compact field-model as an APS-C counterpart to their FF K-1 or K-1 II.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 03-21-2024, 02:24 PM  
I want to support Pentax, but…
Posted By mikesbike
Replies: 250
Views: 8,180
Wow! What an interesting post!

I can throw in some of my experiences along the same line. I have occasionally shot wrestling tournaments for years now. It is quite common for me to see another photographer sitting on the floor along the sidelines very close to the mat, obviously with their Canon premium white lens, probably on a FF body. Just looking, I'd guess it to be a 70-200 f/2.8 or so- L of course. I've often wonder why such a long lens- must be doing mainly closeups. Not using flash, hence the faster lens. Well, flash is virtually always allowed in these wrestling events. I find it to be a necessity if wanting the best results. Overhead lighting casts a lot of downward shadows, and participants often have their faces in a downward position. So I just bring the K-5 IIs or a KP with my DA 18-135mm lens and the compact AF 360 FGZ II flash, which I can shove into a cargo pocket. I leave my fast lenses at home when it comes to these wrestling events. I set up the flash using exposure comp for fill-flash effect, according to the distance I'll be shooting from. The place is very crowded, a virtual madhouse, actually. So one has to wiggle in to where one can get a decent shooting position. Furthermore, our team members will be having matches on different mats, so I need to move with them. I often see my Canon counterpart struggling with his cumbersome gear. I get excellent results. My coach friend appreciates these very much. In today's world, I don't have to bother with film, I just have him download my SD card into his computer, using a card reader- wonderful! His associates can get some shots, video also, with a phone. But they cannot get well-framed shots from just any position, even from a bit up into the stands, as can my very versatile and capable 18-135mm zoom lens, and get those well-framed shots with an evenly-lit natural appearance as from the fill-flash. I just shoot highest-quality JPEGs and need no post adjustments. I'll bet those Canon guys shoot RAW and struggle to compensate for the under-shadows in post, after lugging around all that bulk, and they'd be reduced to longer shots and facial closeups, unless switching lenses for WA.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 03-19-2024, 03:19 PM  
Raw vs jpeg
Posted By mikesbike
Replies: 49
Views: 1,951
When for many years I was shooting film, I very often shot slides. If I would be giving out sets of prints, then I would shoot print film. In fact, as a total beginner, where there was NO auto-anything, all SLR cameras and lenses offered just manual focus, and ONLY had one exposure "mode"- the manual exposure "mode". You set your own aperture and shutter speed, according to your interpretation of the camera's meter indicator. Very conservative pros and enthusiasts of those times actually turned up their noses at using a camera's meter, considering even having such a device as being "amateurish", instead of using a hand-held meter!

My advanced advisor, who had his own darkroom, suggested I shoot just slides because they were cheaper for processing, more accurate in showing the actual exposure results for me to learn by, and better for compact storage. My exposed film was usually sent to Kodak for processing, as I recall. To get various color palettes and/or to address various lighting conditions, one had to obtain an appropriate film type and sensitivity. I had a lot to learn.

Today, everything is much easier in our digital age. Easier to learn, if we take the time to do it, and much easier if we want our own dark room to do our own processing. Just install some computer software, set up some controls on the camera, and away we go! We have many options right there at our fingertips! I find camaras of today to be absolutely amazing. If we choose to set up our processing using the camera's processor, we have an amazingly sophisticated control system for that. Don't even have to send our SD card to Kodak!!
Forum: Pentax KP 03-19-2024, 02:10 PM  
Anyone use the 21mm F2.4 limited with the Kp
Posted By mikesbike
Replies: 12
Views: 851
Very nice shot! I read your other thread via the link you gave above, and I do agree that this lens is in a special class of its own! Now that you have the KP AND the K-1 II, you have a dream-team!! Between the meaty and wonderfully-performing unique Pentax FF K-1 II, and then when lighter carrying and/or longer telephoto needs arise, the KP is ideal. I too now have an arsenal of lenses for either format, whichever will serve my present need. Each format has its own advantages, and I have found each addresses those needs and conditions as I've indicated, these two models being exceptional in their respective format. If you also sometimes have need for lighter compact carrying, the KP is designed with that in mind, but with very high quality, which is not sacrificed in switching to meet such needs. It represents the same concept that brought forth the Limited lenses- compactness with vey high quality. The KP is designed to complement the Limited concept, and in doing so remains the only DSLR in existance that can compete in this regard against the high-level APS-C mirrorless offerings.

I generally carry whichever camera/lens combo in a cross-shoulders strap/belt-loop holster type of camera case. I just draw out the camera when needing to shoot, then return into the case for further carrying. For times when you will be doing more extensive going about on foot and require the least degree of encumberence, of course it will now be the KP, and I can recommend yet one more lens- the HD DA 15mm f/4 Limited. It is so small, it lives in the zippered front accessory pocket of the camera case, and I actually forget it is there- until I need an ultra-wide shot, and there it is!
Forum: Pentax KP 03-18-2024, 09:59 PM  
can't decide
Posted By mikesbike
Replies: 14
Views: 822
These are very good lenses. Des certainly has covered the pros and cons very well, as has Uncle V. and others. That said, and with the kind of shooting you like to do, it is hard to advise over a good deal for a brand new camera having such a good feature set and performance as does the KF for the money, and comes with a warranty.

I like the KP so much I bought two of them brand new. I decided for the optional silver. They are real beauties! I've had both for over 6 years with no issues. But I do handle my equipment with care. I've had the K-S2, a similar design to the KF, for a couple of years longer. The KP's AF, especially with screw-driven lenses, I too have found to be faster and more accurate than other previous models. It is a great camera, but it does have a more retro-design grip and feel. I suspect you'd be ok with that, in view of your long-time Pentax experience, going way back in time. As to performance, I've found the KP's metering to be superior, as well as its brilliantly designed controls. I've learned about the rear screen problem of blacking-out due to its electronic cable cracking from pulling the screen in and out, so I use that feature very sparingly, and slowly with care if I do use it. Its performance with higher ISO settings for low light use is outstanding, yet the KF is very nearly as good in this regard.

If you do decide for the KF, I just looked to find B&H has a spacial deal going with the DA 18-135mm DC WR lens prepackaged together by Ricoh/Pentax where you get $80 off the lens compared to buying them separately. This is a very well-performing lens for all-around use. Its AF is quiet, fast and sure on either camera, and having it on either provides a true WR combo, so you could go ahead and shoot if some drippy weather should come along. It is very versatile, even capable of good closeups, has a very useful zoom range, and is yet quite compact but well-built. I would probabaly not buy this lens used, as it is prone to developing zoom-creep over time when pointed in a downward angle. I have many lenses, but that one is my go-to when I need maximum versatility with very good quality and its fine AF performance and WR. I've had mine over 10 years, used on a number of differen bodies. It is just still like the day I bought it new. It never developed zoom creep because I always carry my camera in a cross-shoulder strap plus belt-loop holster type case, drawing out my camera when wanting to shoot then replacing back into the case. So it always has protection and support when carried.

You can find many images from this lens in the SLR lens secton of the forums posted under the thread- "DA 18-135mm DC WR Show us what it can do". Best to start with the most recent and go backwards.

I believe we'd all be interested in knowing which you decide to get, and if you find your new camera to your liking. Whichever you get, if you like shooting JPEG images right out of the camera, I always advise going into the Custom Image menues to set up "Fine Sharpening" especially in the most often-used "Bright" category, for superior fine detail in your results.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 03-16-2024, 10:32 AM  
Raw vs jpeg
Posted By mikesbike
Replies: 49
Views: 1,951
Nice result! No doubt RAW would definitely be most capable in dealing with these types of conditions. Even though that is true, I have been somewhat successful when opening up shadows in a JPEG shot by using my old PE version 1 (!) which has a "fill-flash" control, or even by quickly switching on the KP's HDR feature on location at the time of the shot, if good enough thus avoiding any post-process attention. This kind of situation when shooting JPEGs might also be where the use of the RAW button could provide the RAW option at a later time.
Forum: Pentax KP 03-16-2024, 09:50 AM  
Anyone use the 21mm F2.4 limited with the Kp
Posted By mikesbike
Replies: 12
Views: 851
I have both the DA 21mm f/3.2 and the D-FA 21mm f/2.4 Limiteds. The former is used exclusively on the KP and the latter mostly on the K-1 II, but also on the KP when I need a WA lens for night shots or in other low light situations, as well as when wanting better control over DOF to blur background more to make a subject stand out from it. It does a great job in these regards, performing well even at wider apertures. It does not feel huge to me on the KP, quite nice really, but of course not at all in the pancake category as is the DA 21mm, which goes with the KP like a well-fitting glove on the hand.

If working in plenty of light, my preference would usually be for the DA 21mm lens on the KP for general use, and usually stopped down a bit.

I bought the D-FA 21mm f/2.4 DC WR Ltd specifically for use on the K-1 II, where in the role of a faster ultra-WA it is fantastic! If you should get this lens, it might even drive you to also get the K-1 II as the big brother to your KP! This lens and say the D-FA 28-105mm f/3.5-5.6 DC WR together with the K-1 II make a very nice kit when not doing a whole lot of walking, biking, etc. The balance of this lens on the K-1 II is excellent.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 03-13-2024, 09:42 PM  
I Brought Back Some Memories
Posted By mikesbike
Replies: 13
Views: 1,643
An excellent shot of architecture and in a scene from a long-ago era! Well done. Indeed, the K-1 II with a high-quality lens can produce superb imaging, as is in evidence here!
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 03-11-2024, 07:00 PM  
I want to support Pentax, but…
Posted By mikesbike
Replies: 250
Views: 8,180
The K-3 III will NOT provide a larger image in the frame than does any other APS-C camera using the same lens at the same distance. Nor does having a 26mp sensor provide noticeably more resolution than those of 24mp so cropping would not do so either. The K-3 III provides the full-handed, full set of on-body controls, 2-card slots, etc as with the K-3 II, but with a number of upgrades and capabilities well beyond what the K-3 II offered.

---------- Post added 03-11-24 at 07:18 PM ----------



Absolutely spectacular, for sure! Especially if one already has some very good FF lenses, but I do recommend taking the pre-packaged deal that includes the very well-performing D-FA 28-105mm DC WR zoom lens at another $100 off, which will then also provide a WR FF system. Very nice!

I still really enjoy my APS-C bodies for what they offer, especially the KP. Each format has advantages. Where FF struggles is in dealing with longer tele shooting where lenses need be larger, heavier, and expensive. APS-C lends itself better to many fast-action shooting situations. That said, between the two, with a quality lens having the same framing at the same distance, although both can be very fine, the 36mp image can be even "finer"!! And the high ISO performance is yet "higher"!! The K-1 II is one marvelous camera, and built like all get-out.

Where APS-C struggles some is in the realm of faster-aperture wide angle and ultra-wide. Here the K-1 II can really deliver, along with its excellent 36mp imaging. On this FF powerhouse, the HD FA 31mm f/1.8 Ltd is a marvelous and very versatile walkabout wide-angle prime lens. Or the reasonably-priced and compact HD FA 35mm f/2. Also very special is the very small, wide-normal HD FA 43mm f/1.9 Ltd- very sharp imaging! The HD D-FA 21mm f/2.4 DC WR Ltd on this marvelous camera is simply amazing!

There are also numerous other fine FF legacy lenses out there used at reasonable prices which will once again fuction in their originally-intended FOV, and deliver quality images as they never had before.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 03-11-2024, 06:26 PM  
Raw vs jpeg
Posted By mikesbike
Replies: 49
Views: 1,951
As others have said in giving their very good answers, much depends on your need or desire for post processing of your images. This might include also the practical aspects of how much to your satisfaction are your exposures, and to what degree you are willing, or needing, to engage in working with your images after the fact of shooting them. With highest quality JPEG setting of your camera, it is not about resolution- you will still get the resolution your camera and lens are capable of, but the raw file will conatain much more information as to the gradations of both color depth and of exposure latitude. When you are doing the processing of the raw file yourself, you can select the exact points of gradation to your liking, which might not be at a point the camera's processing would choose. You can indeed still do some post processing of JPEG files, but not as many fine gradients will be there for your options in the JPEG file.

In all the years I shot film, I never considered setting up a darkroom to do my own processing, rather I did select lab services I thought did superior work. With digital, it is a much easier proposition to do your own processing, compared to setting up your own darkroom for film work. As for myself, I am one of those who are happy enough with what they can get from the camera after modifying some in-camera adjustments of the camera's processor operation. I am also generally able to get the exposure I am after at the get-go. So if I do wish to make further post-process modifications, it is then of a very modest nature, and is fully satisfactory in working with the JPEG. I prefer to make my shot and be done with it, getting on with other things in which I'd rather invest my time. I sometimes will shoot RAW and do some such work, but rarely have been able to get a superior outcome, enough over my in-camera JPEG settings to make this worth it for me on a regular basis. Others, however, really enjoy working with their images, and they have been posting some great results in doing so.

I see you are likewise a very experienced 35mm film shooter, including a lot of experence shooting in all manual operation. This suggests you are most likely quite expert in nailing the exposure as you want it to be, with little or no need for subsequent alteration. If this is the case, and you've set up your in-camera processing to your liking, which is giving you satisfying results, you might not need to post process every shot. One way to find out is to shoot RAW+JPEG, then go ahead with processing the RAW version yourself to compare. You could also do so case-by-case through the use of the RAW button for certain shots where you might be more inclined to be fussy.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 03-08-2024, 06:24 PM  
Pentax K5?
Posted By mikesbike
Replies: 22
Views: 1,091
I had both the K-r and the K-5 at the same time. I still have the K-5, and the K-5 IIs, but no longer the K-r, which I gave to friends after getting a fabulous closeout deal on a K-S2 when the K-70 appeared. So yes, the K-5 is a better camera than the K-r, the IQ is better in subtle ways but it is there. Dynamic range definitely better. Low light/higher ISO is somewhat better, but the K-r is no slouch in this regard also. I like having a compact model as well as a flagship-style body, for times when lighter and smaller are beneficial for practical considerations. When I got the K-r, my main camera was the K20D. The K-r was actually superior to the K20D for low light use. It had received top marks for higher ISO usage with very little loss in IQ by lab test reviews. It served me very well for such circumstances in addition to being my more compact, lightweight alternative.

I got the K-5 new after the price came down. Because of this, I believe I got a late-production copy as it has given me no problems. Then, after the K-3 came out, upon seeing test reviews, etc. I passed on it because I found a new left-over K-5 IIs at 1/2 price as I had done the K20D years before, after the K-7 came. The "s" means it has no AA filter as found on most DSLR cameras. The main purpose of this filter is essentially as anti-moire (off-color purpulish cast) technology. It accomplishes its mission through a slight smearing effect to make any moire present less noticeable. However, this also has a slight smearing effect on fine detail in some images, and the occurance of moire is rather uncommon anyway. I have noticed this better fine detail difference when using my K-5 IIs compared to the K-5 in many images I have taken. The K-3, as the next model after the K-5 II and IIs, also has no AA filter, but has a switchable anti-moire technology which can be switched in when moire is present. This was a brilliant technical design by Pentax and has been continued in all subsequent Pentax models since. The K-3 was/is a very fine camera, but in some regards the K-5 II, and especially the K-5 IIs- still surpasses it in some regards. It is important, if shooting JPEG images right out of the camera, to go into the Custom Image menus to set up "Fine Sharpening" especially in the most often-used "Bright" category.

However, there are a few subsequent Pentax AF lenses that are not compatible with Pentax DSLR models older than the K-3. One of these is the 55-300mm PLM model. My Pentax KP body would handle this lens, but I keep using my very good, sharp, previous HD DA 55-300mm WR lens. Its AF performance is still fast enough for my uses, especially on the KP, but it is still good enough for me on the K-5 IIs as well. Depends on your needs, though. If those include birds in flight and other fast-moving subjects, the K-3 with the DA 55-300mm PLM lens can definitely provide quicker and near silent AF.

I am not sure how good a deal the K-5 you've found is on the current market, but if I were you in considering spending substantial money on a used camera upgrade over your K-r, I would consider looking for a low-use K-5 IIs in top shape. I would have to believe that you would notice IQ improvement, as well as its superior VF, superior controls, better rear screen, metering and processing, AF, quiet shutter, and better handling. You would definitely realize your hands are on a pro-built, pro-oriented camera design vs. one not in the same league. Otherwise, especially if interested in a PLM lens, a K-3 would be the way to go.

And wait 'till you get hold of the exclusive Pentax Hyper Program system, where in the "P" Program mode where the camera sets both the aperture and the shutter speed- very handy under conditions where the lighting and/or backround are constantly changing- yet you can instantly override what the camera has set simply by making your own preferred choice of either by using the finger or rear thumb dial, and the camera will instantly obey. You have instanlty shifted into Av or Tv mode without having to first change the mode dial before selecting your choice! Then with a touch of the green button, you can instantly restore full "P" operation. Very fast and efficiant for making adjustments on the fly, and exclusive to Pentax!

Whichever your choice, you could still keep your K-r and shoot with it if you have a moire situation, or for times when you need going as compact as is possible.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 03-08-2024, 01:36 PM  
I want to support Pentax, but…
Posted By mikesbike
Replies: 250
Views: 8,180
Depends on your shooting and handling needs, as well as features. For low light/higher ISO use the KF will kick the K-3 II's butt. It also has the articulating screen and the built-in flash. In my case, I value these capabilities over a 2-card slot, etc.

If I did not have my beloved 2 KP bodies, as well as my very small K-S2, all bought new after the price came down (the K-S2 in a spectacular deal after the K-70 came out)- I would snap up a new KF in a hot second, along with the very versatile DA 18-135mm lens, if I did not already have it. I've had that lens for over 10 years, bought new and used on many Pentax DSLR bodies, yet it looks and works as well as the day it came, which is very well indeed. At such modest size and weight, whoo needs mirrorless, and at a yet higher cost? With Nikon or Canon's cheaper models, you don't get the superior VF or the superior controls, and to get a WR camera body you'd be shopping in the $1,000+ USD range and the same for a WR lens. They don't make any such at this low cost, nor along with that, such compact jewels such as the very compact HD DA 15mm, HD DA 21mm and HD DA 70mm Limiteds.

The HD DA 20-40mm f/2.8-4 DC WR Limited, along with the HD DA 15mm and HD DA 70mm Limiteds, make for a marvelous compact, high-quality kit.

I agree, the K-3 III price is quite high. But those who need its capabilities for faster AF especially with certain lenses, as well as the higher burst speeds, along with the larger bodied style with available battery grip, the 2-card slots, full-set of on-body controls, and yet further improved higher ISO performance, will just have to pay for these advantages.
Forum: Pentax KP 03-08-2024, 12:34 PM  
KP Didn't Let Me Down
Posted By mikesbike
Replies: 54
Views: 3,131
So now you have both the KP AND the K-1 II?? Well, aren't you well-fixed!!

After owning and loving the KP for quite some time, a couple of years back I likewise decided to finally additionally get into the FF alternative, since I already had many fine AF FF lenses for my Pentax 35mm film bodies. I too took the deal offered with the D-FA 28-105mm pre-packaged with the camera, so as to have a complete WR system available with the K-1 II. Between these two cameras, I am one happy shooter! The KP and some very fine lenses for when longer telephoto, and/or lighter more compact carrying are at issue. Then the K-1 II when I won't be doing longer trekking or biking, and also for night scene shots or when other very low-light conditions will be the case, as well as less extensive carrying. The K-1 II is one helluva camera!

My APS-C system is now quite well-developed after so many years and camera models, and my KP is probably still my most often-used, but I have been surprised by how often it is that I choose my FF system. Getting the D-FA 28-105 has turned out to be a wise choice, and I'm also now once again finding the joy I used to experience with certain lenses on my 35mm film bodies- but even more so on the K-1 II! Primarily employing FF usage in the Ultra-wide to moderate tele range keeps the weight down for carrying. However, the K-1 II being so very well-designed makes for truly excellent handling, and thus its weight less noticeable.
Forum: Pentax KP 03-02-2024, 03:03 PM  
KP mode dial mysteriously stopped working
Posted By mikesbike
Replies: 16
Views: 1,460
Good to hear! Nice find at such a low shutter count. It appears the KP has a couple of weak points to handle-with-care, including the pull-out rear screen as well. I certainly understand your desire for replacement, as the KP is such a unique design concept, having many great features, and with outstanding performance.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 03-01-2024, 05:11 PM  
Lens question for Alaska cruise
Posted By mikesbike
Replies: 17
Views: 817
This I also recommend. It is my standard kit together with my HD DA 20-40mm. My HD DA 15mm is so small it lives in the front accessory pocket of my holster-type camera case with the 20-40mm on camera. It is so small I forget it is there- until times when I need an ultra-wide shot, there it is! Along with the 55-300mm these comprise a great trio. I might also suggest taking a fast prime lens for night scenes or other low-light shots.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 03-01-2024, 04:39 PM  
Looking for a medium zoom lens f2.8 to pair with K3 III for basketball photography
Posted By mikesbike
Replies: 16
Views: 914
Well, the OP said he sometimes is shooting almost from beneath the hoop, so the 24mm wider angle is needed as well as some degree of moderate tele. Personally, I too don't like to isolate the athlete's action all the time, instead including more in the frame to show context of this action. What I am saying is f/2.8 at about a stop or so can about double shutter speed or 1/2 the ISO, but don't expect wonders beyond that. So the actual circumstance of the actual lighting would be the determining factor of whether spending the necessary cost for the D-FA f/2.8 lens will be bring the results needed. I sometimes shoot in various gyms, and can get good enough results at ISO 3200 to 6400 while using a KP, but if the k-3 III can do ISO 12,800 or better while providing adequate shutter speed- might well depend on how well-lit the gym is. Might need f/2.8 after all to get that last 1/2 reduction of ISO or doubling of shutter speed. But Peter is right regarding DOF etc. Even more so when going into longer tele.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 02-29-2024, 07:27 PM  
Looking for a medium zoom lens f2.8 to pair with K3 III for basketball photography
Posted By mikesbike
Replies: 16
Views: 914
I would think the Pentax D-FA 24-70mm f/2.8 lens would be the best choice of those considered. Its "SDM" AF system is of a much later generation and design than the SDM type as is found on the older Pentax models that are subject to AF failure. This Pentax lens also comes with WR construction for addressing a variety of conditions, and has enjoyed very good reviews for quality imaging.

That said, the Pentax DA 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 DC WR lens does have exceptionally fast and accurate AF. It can also keep to f/3.5-4.5 out to 70mm, or about a stop or so off f/2.8, and since the Pentax K-3 III is the camera being used here, increasing ISO upward to compensate for not having f/2.8 capability can be done with this camera without the quality penalty found in most other camera models. This lens also delivers sharp imaging even into the tele range, then especially in its central image area, where it is most important in tele shots. For other general uses, hard to beat the versatility of this lens.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 02-29-2024, 05:19 PM  
Detailed Information Display KP
Posted By mikesbike
Replies: 17
Views: 862
Those are wonderful shots. The exposure mode shown in EXIF indicates you used the "P" Program mode so the camera automatically selects both aperture and shutter speed for best exposure. Nothing wrong with that. The KP does a better job in this regard than the other previous Pentax DSLR models I have owned, which are many. Nothing wrong with using this advantage, which is even more advantageous under conditions where lighting (or background) are constantly changing. Since there was no tricky lighting situation that would trick even the KP's more sophisticated metering system, results were excellent.

In using the "P" mode instead of the green "Auto" mode, this allows you to override the camera's choices of aperture or shutter speed, and make your own adjustments on the fly if your subject matter were to indicate such intervention would bring superior results. For example, controlling action (shutter speed) to freeze or to induce blur to show movement.

Or to alter the aperture to increase or decrease Depth-Of-Field (DOF)- the amount of background/foreground in your shot that will appear sharp. But the green "auto" mode would disallow access to any and all adjustments by the user.

When in "P" mode and you need a different shutter speed or aperture, with Pentax all you need do is use your finger or thumb dial to make your preferred choice, and the camera will instantly obey! This is the exclusive Pentax Hyper Program operation- you are able to switch into Av or Tv operation instantly without having to first switch your mode dial before selecting your preference! Very fast and efficient. A touch of the green button restores full "P" operation.

The "Auto" mode is mainly useful when handing the camera to someone not familiar with DSLR use for them to take a shot with you included, so they can't accidentally hit a control which would ruin the shot.

However, as you gain experience you will no doubt run into such lighting extremes that will throw off your exposure. Such experience will teach you to recognize these circumstances along with when and how to use the camera's other exposure methods. When faced with such problematic conditions, I often use the old Manual mode, even taking spot meter readings of mid-tone areas of the scene that are under the same lighting, and go by this reading, after which the warnings by the camera's meter against over/under exposure are then ignored, as I re-frame to get the intended shot. Taking spot meter readings, or any time you choose to use the Manual mode, this is especially easy with a Pentax DSLR, because instead of the usual twirling of thumb and finger dials to get a meter-centered reading, just use the green button and you instantly have it! It's great for taking spot-meter readings at various points in a scene- very fast and efficient. If you then decide on a particular exposure, but would rather have a different shutter speed or aperture, first hit the AE-L button (be sure this button is set up for its original use- try it and see), then go ahead in choosing your preference and the other will follow along, preserving your exposure value!! This is the Pentax Hyper Manual operation. The Pentax Hyper System is unique in the world of photography and can be very useful indeed.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 02-19-2024, 02:49 PM  
Pentax K-1 Help
Posted By mikesbike
Replies: 23
Views: 1,084
I have the K-1 II but not the K-3 III. Since you have a K-3 III, this camera would be the best choice for anything moving. But the DA 18-55mm lens is not so good for such a high-level camera as the K-3 III. With this camera, I would take the DA 55-300mm PLM lens, along with possibly the DA 18-135mm lens where you would not need to change lenses very often, and this lens also has quick autofocus. For low light, your FA 31mm and FA 77mm f/1.8 Limited lenses are the best, as well as the DA* 200mm f/2.8 for telephoto. But the FA 31mm will only have a wide view on your K-1 not on your K-3 III.

With the K-3 III, you can raise up the ISO to a higher level to get more shutter speed, and your picture quality will still be very good.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 02-16-2024, 04:31 PM  
Lens swap questions
Posted By mikesbike
Replies: 18
Views: 1,248
Although these days I most often shoot with a KP, the K-5 IIs, or the FF K-1II, I still have my (mint condition) K20D that I bought new at 1/2 price after the subsequent K-7 came out. It even included a free Pentax 5 year warranty! I still like and still use my K20D at times. Its colors are especially rich. I especially like the results I get when shooting Fall color scenes. Another poster has said he likes it especially for portraits, but I am not sure of the settings he used for this purpose. The K20D tends to underexpose a bit as shown right out of the camera, but I don't bother using the comp control on bright sunny days. This camera has a very fine feel in the hand, and has a very good set of controls. It was the Pentax flagship of its day, very durable and with some important new features over its predecessor.

It would be a good idea, if not already supplied, to download the owners' manual from the Ricoh/pentax website. Also, doing a reset to factory specs in case there have been alterations made by the previous owner.

In order to access any adjustments, or to use the array of controls at your disposal, the mode dial must not be set to the green "auto" mode. This mode bars all access and the camera alone will take charge over all settings, according to what it thinks it "sees" even which Custom Image category it will choose, but does not inform you of its choice. Use the "P" setting instead for full automation of shutter speed and aperture. This setting will allow all access, including the exclusive Pentax Hyper System. For instance, when in automated "P" mode, and the camera sets an aperture or shutter speed not to your liking, you can instantly override the automation by simply using your thumb or finger dial to select your choice and the camera will instantly obey, if available light will allow under the ISO sensitivity you have chosen. You have shifted to Av or Tv operation without having to first turn the mode dial before selecting your desired change. Then, when wished, you can return to full automation with a touch of the green button (or by shutting off the camera). This is the Pentax Hyper Program operating system. Very fast and efficient for making changes on the fly.

The green button can also used when in the Manual mode, which then puts you in Pentax Hyper Manual, which means instead of twirling the thumb and finger dials to set apertures and shutte speeds according to the camera's meter reading, the green button will instantly set meter-centered exposure. This is especially efficient when taking spot-meter readings around a scene. Then, when a satisfactory exposure setting is reached, and you'd rather have a different shutter speed or aperture, first hit the AE-L button to freeze exposure value, then use the thumb or finger dial to make your change, and the other will follow along, preserving that exposure value! The quick and efficient Pentax Hyper Manual System can make the Manual mode of other cameras seem cumbersome by comparison.

Unfortunately, these excellent operational features will not be available with your old manual lenses, nor is across-frame matrix metering, as these old lenses do not have the necessary contacts on their lens mounts to communicate information with the camera's internal workings. I simply want to make you aware for future reference of what advanced and very useful technology sits there before you.

Settings I usually recommend for out of camera imaging- go into the Custom Image menus to set up "Fine Sharpening". Pentax DSLRs, especially flagship models have been verified in lab test reviews to be conservative (a bit softish) in default sharpening. On the K20D, hit the "fn" button, which should bring up the Custom Image menus. You will probably already have the most often used "Bright" category already selected by default. Hit OK which will open this menu. Then the 4 direction arrows around the OK butten will serve for navigation. Tab down to Sharpening adjustments. You will notice in the"Bright" category, sharpening level is already up by one notch from mid-point, which is the default "normal" for this category as it is shown in green. Now you can use your right arrow to move it up one more notch to +2. Then (very important) use your thumb dial to set "Fine Sharpening", which will refine the sharpening process, resulting in better fine detail in your images.

I usually go back up and using the right arrow again, switch to the "Natural" category, which will have less saturated colors, which is often better for skin tones when there are people in your shots. I then set both the sharpening level and "Fine Sharpening" to be the same as in the "Bright" category. I don't do anything in the "Portrait" category.

Your existing old Pentax lenses probably include some primes having larger aperture settings for low light use- especially good with the K20D to keep necessary ISO settings down to a modest level. However, that said, to take full advantage of much this camera can do in good lighting, I suggest you consider the very capable and advanced all-around zoom lens, the Pentax DA 18-135mm DC WR. It features Weather Resistant construction to match that of your K20D, and fast, quiet, accurate DC AF. It provides uncommonly versatile capability and with very fine results. Check out the "DA 18-135mm DC WR lens. show Us What it can do' thread in the SLR lens section. Starting with the most recent entries and go backwards. There will be images taken with it on a variety of newer and older camera bodies with varying results, but you will see many examples that are surprisingly fine for such a wide-ranging zoom lens, even good closeups, and should be a good fit for your K20D's very capable near 15mp resolution. All of your camera's technologies will be available. I'd go for a new lens, as this one can develop zoom creep over time. I carry my cameras in a cross-shoulder & belt loop holster-type case, which is protective and prevents such problems from developing.

Have a good time getting used to and enjoying the considerable potential this fine camera offers!
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 02-14-2024, 07:18 PM  
Pentax KF, colossal failure, or viable upgrade?
Posted By mikesbike
Replies: 43
Views: 2,191
I love my DA*50-135mm f/2.8 on my KP, compact enough for good handling (for me) even with the KP's largest supplied grip. I use the DA* 200mm f/2.8 when longer reach is needed, and it is still relatively compact. For other, heavier more bulky lenses, I might revert to using the KP's battery grip, which is also good for event shooting, where interruptions for battery changes could be disruptive. The SDM AF is not the greatest for speed, but adequate for me. The DA* 60-250 does not have f/2.8 for low light/higher shutter speed, and it cannot be converted to screw driven AF if the SDM should fail.

I have found the KP's AF has been an improvement over other models I've used, even noticeable with screw-driven lenses. With its higher ISO performance capability, this can also mean a higher shutter speed under the same lighting condition for superior results.. Of course, the Pentax leader for AF and burst shooting is the K-3 III.
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