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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
08-30-2017, 08:34 PM
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All good. Like I said in the other post, I really appreciate the care. I figured it wasn't likely the body from the beginning, the other lenses worked and its in great shape. Quite happy with it, it's one of those things that just feel good to use.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
08-30-2017, 08:21 PM
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I GOT IT WORKING! I'm chalking it up to bad design on the part of the lens maker.
Sorry if this next part make you cringe...
So I playing with the idea that it might be an alignment issue and was attempting to bend the tab closer and further from the lens center to see if that helped (it didn't). But while I was doing that, I noticed it was pretty flexible going side to side (along the axis it travels). I took the mounting plate off to see how the tab was connected. Turns out that the tab itself is kinda floating out in open air quite a distance from where it attaches to the ring and the metal is pretty soft. I bent the tab up a bit and reattached the mounting plate. The tab is now nice and flush (borderline proud) with the top of the lip of that slot. That did the trick; the camera can sense the aperture setting now (and it still works on the other body).
I didn't think to take a picture of the lens guts, so drew a quick picture (attached) of it. The blue lines represent the slot it pokes out through. The outside of the lens is pretty tanky feeling, but this part felt quite flimsy (a mechanical linkage seems like a bad place to cheap out on). My guess years of use may have bent it downward a bit and the other body may have been more tolerant to it sitting lower.
Also, I hate to keep calling it a tab, does it have a proper name?
EDIT: I just wanted to thank everyone who helped me get this sorted out.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
08-30-2017, 06:40 PM
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Wouldn't that affect any lens I put on it? The other 4 I have work fine.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
08-30-2017, 10:07 AM
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I attached 2 pictures. It looks like the working lens has that tab flush with the lip of the opening. The not working one looks like its just shy of flush and looks kind of rounded. (Not sure how well that reads in the pictures).
When I attach a working lens I can feel a tiny catch then increasing spring pressure. With the non working one, I feel that catch then it slips. So the 2 tabs being misaligned sounds about right.
Also @ctrout, that's much appreciated. Regardless of whether or not we can get this particular lens to work, I am happy with it.
I'm thinking its just a cheap-for-its-time lens that may not be completely to spec based on what everyone has said/I've seen so far.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
08-29-2017, 09:50 PM
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It does. Is there a way to tell which one is messed up? The lens works on other bodies and other lenses work on this body.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
08-29-2017, 09:11 PM
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Is this what you're referring to? Its inside the slot on the side (the tab opposite it sticks out). |
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
08-29-2017, 08:52 PM
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I see the tabs you're talking about, the one on the lens moves proportionally on with the ring. As far as the bodies, the tab may extend out ever so slightly farther on the CM-7 (tested with the extremely scientific running my finger along the edge test). I suppose the tab could be inset in the the lens too far to engage with the KX. Any idea how to remedy it or is it not really worth pursuing?
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
08-29-2017, 08:12 PM
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I recently picked up a KX that appears to be in excellent shape. Everything seems to work as expected as well, except one specific lens that won't meter properly. The lens in question is a Promaster MC f2.8 135mm prime (can't find much of anything on it online).
So on my other body (a Chinon CM-7) you can see the light meter change as you adjust the aperture ring. On the KX the ring seems to do nothing to the metering. Regardless of aperture setting, the needle stays between 2 and bulb. If I hit the DoF preview the lens does stop down, so that linkage is working. The battery check button puts the needle between 30 and 60, which if I'm reading the manual right means they've got life left in them. Again all my other lenses work fine on the KX and this lens works on a different body so I'm kinda lost as to what's going on.
I was hoping someone here could help me figure out what the deal is.
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