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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
11-12-2020, 10:46 AM
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I recently picked up a 35 Limited Macro and I'm very pleased with what it does. I've been shooting with it for a few weeks (hundreds of shots); on occasion it does hunt through the whole range when focusing, but I'd say no more than 1 in 50 shots in my experience. Not having had the Sigma, I can't make any comparisons, but with f1.4, I'm sure it's got a few tricks up its sleeve too.
I believe I might have posted this shot earlier in the thread, but it was one that made me decide I wanted this lens (which I was able to borrow and try).
@f5.6
And here are some other bokish shots with the 35 Limited:
@f2.8
Here are links to more of my results with the 35 Limited Macro:
Nov. 5, 2020 with 35 Limited Macro | Flickr
Nov. 7, 2020 with 35 Limited Macro | Flickr
Nov. 9, 2020 with 35 Limited Macro | Flickr |
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
10-24-2020, 03:34 PM
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Hi, welcome to the forum. Let me fill in some of blanks you may have with jpg and raw files along with dslrs and smartphones.
Smartphones and DSLRs - they both are cameras and that's where the similarities end. Smartphones makes extensive use of highly automated computer processing (within the smartphone device), while DSLRs emphasis manual controls to capture the image and allow the photographer to use post processing utilities to process the image in order to bring out their best features. Smartphones on the other hand, emphasis automated processing - where the camera may actually capture a dozen individual images using a range of apertures, shutter durations and ISOs, then automagically stack, slice and dice each of the individual images - extracting their best features and combining them together to form a single image.
Now, you - the photographer can accomplish exactly the same, however you at the time of capturing the image, would need to probably bracket (with 2 to 5 images the scene), possibly focus stack the scene with another 2 to 5 images, and then in post processing - process all of these together to form your perfect image.
Let's talk about JPG and RAW files for a minute. The camera (K70) captures an image, with each pixel containing 14 bits of information (214 = 16,384 color shades and tones). The camera then stores this information out as either RAW (DNG format or PEF format) or as a JPG format. Now the RAW formats store all the data - all 14 bits of information from the camera. The JPG format however only allows for 8 of these bits to be stored (28 = 256 colors shades and tones. So, essentially - the JPG file dumps 98% of the information that the camera captured. Once dumped, you can never recover this information - unless you use the option to save both the RAW and JPG images to the SD card.
This begs the question - why the smartphone JPG images looks so much better than the Pentax JPG images. Well all the automagical computer processing (based on AI and machine learning) combining all the individual images together in the smartphone occurs using the RAW, and then at the very last step - converts it to JPG for storage. In the DSLR (and every brand - Canon, Nikon, Fuji, Sony, Olympus, Leica, etc.) passes the RAW image through their brand respective JPG processing engine - and just the one image (not the several images combined as with the smartphone) is processed and stored out to the SD card in JPG format.
Can the JPG format be post processed - absolutely, but with some limitations. Let's say you down load your JPG images to your PC, go in with Lightroom or Photoshop and make some changes and then save them (which overwrites the original JPG file). Then tomorrow you want to make yet another set of changes - well you open up the file you saved yesterday, do some additional processing and then save the JPG file (which writes over the first post processing file with the second post processing JPG file). On every set of edits - you are degrading the JPG file. JPG file editing is destructive.
When you post process RAW files, the original RAW files are never touched. Your edited commands are saved to an associated file and every time you open your RAW file, the prior editing commands are reapplied. In this way RAW file (DNG and PEF) editing is non-destructive. You can even reset all of your prior edits and start over from scratch.
Now, you might compare JPG images across the camera brands. They are different, because each camera brand's internal JPG engine performs different levels of processing. Canon and Nikon are the most over processed - Why? Sales. Camera reviewers compare the JPGs from each camera and says this looks great, which translates into sales for that camera brand. Pentax, does the least amount of processing - Why? In order to preserve as much information - e.g., sharpness and details as possible. This lets you post process the JPGs and still retain as much information as possible. Now, as with all the brands - you the photographer can customize the internal JPG processing engines to get your desired output (brighter colors, etc.).
:cool:
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
08-25-2019, 05:16 AM
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Glad you got to the bottom of this! :) the handheld pictures you posted are lovely, keep up the good work.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
06-21-2019, 02:17 PM
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Your Sigma 17-50/2.8 is probably fine. I would not expect much change in results, even with a non-zoom, at anything close to moderate price points. I am a bit biased, however, in that the 17-50/2.8 EX DC was my close #2 pick when I bought my Sigma 17-70/2.8-4.0 (C) back in 2014. You may want to check whether the AF adjust was needed on that lens and also might want to consider a polarizer filter. I know, they are expensive for 77mm, enough so that I have been shooting without for some time. I just ordered a 72mm Hoya Pro1 circular PL last night for my 17-70 and even at $50 USD on Amazon, it was painful, but not as much as trying to find a more capable lens. You might expect to pay €50 or a bit more for similar.
As for the Sigma 30/1.4 (A), it is likely you can find a more usable lens at that focal length for similar or less money. Much depend on whether you really want f/1.4; if not, 30mm on your 17-50 may be a quite reasonable alternative. A two lens zoom kit, along with your DA 55-300/4-58 might just cover your needs. If a "normal" FOV fast prime is your intent, my suggestion would be the HD FA 35.2.0. I have been shooting with the non-HD version for over a decade and can offer my recommendation without reservation. If you want to spend more money for incredible build and optical quality, get the FA 31/1.8 Limited.
Steve
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Forum: Pentax Forums Giveaways
06-29-2018, 10:50 AM
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This thread will open at 11pm UTC on June 30th. The first 50 people to post a reply (1 entry per household) will receive one raffle entry toward the K-1. The winner will be selected at the end of the day, based on the 100 entries from this thread and the other one.
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Forum: General Photography
03-24-2018, 06:47 AM
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I have to agree with Mark and say no to a DSLR. If this is a professional outfit, they probably have helmet mounted Go Pro style cameras for either the pilot or passenger's helmet for rent so you can relive your experience. Skydiving companies almost always offer still and video services for customers, especially first timers who are unlikely to ever do it again.
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Forum: General Photography
03-24-2018, 01:35 AM
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I have not paraglided, but I have skydived. I would imagine that the experience paragliding is not unlike skydiving when flying under an open canopy. If you're a "passenger, i.e. this is a tandem jump / flight, then you should be able to take photos while under the canopy, using a DSLR or any other camera. But, paragliding is not unlike skydiving, in that, in the event the paraglider needs to dump the main parachute and deploy a reserve, your DSLR will be a major liability. I would not let you fly with it if I was that tandem operator. You have a large, heavy appliance that can whack you in the head when things go wrong. Or whack your pilot in the head, potentially rendering him/her unconscious and then you are as good as dead.
Landing a paraglider is also not unlike landing a normal skydiving parachute, although the paragliding 'chute is, of course, quite a bit larger than a skydiving 'chute. In theory, therefore, you'll approach the ground much more slowly, and in theory, have a much more gentle landing. This assumes nothing goes wrong and you don't faceplant when you reach terra firma and your DSLR eating dirt. There are too many things outside your control to safely fly with your DSLR. A (securely) helmet mounted GoPro would be a far better and safer idea.
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Forum: General Photography
03-23-2018, 03:33 AM
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I think you should worry about yourself. Its quite distracting to do photography or video while doing such things. Instead of concentrating on what you're doing, you are thinking about your camera and putting yourself at risk. I would only go as far as a mounted camera like a GoPro that is on the whole time. You can maybe take frames from a 4K video. Even with this kind of setup, your attention to flying will be diminished because you are thinking about the shot.
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Forum: General Photography
03-23-2018, 02:48 AM
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Hi haroon, if I was worried about the risk of damaging my gear, I would do it the FIRST time without any gear !! :p This would do 2 things for me. It would allow me the chance to enjoy the experience for what it is, and also give me practice of what to expect if I did it again WITH a camera. Just my 2 cents. ;) Good luck. :)
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
11-20-2017, 02:12 AM
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I agree. Using hood can help. I use cheap eBay metal hood for typical 50 mm lens. I didn’t add 1.5x crop factor when search for a hood because I try added a filter behind the hood for 50mm lens and I can see vignette at f1.7.
Concerning lens sharpness alone, may be this test chart can help a bit.
http://www.takinami.com/yoshihiko/photo/lens_test/pentax_normal.html
As see from the test, the sharpest f-stop for M50 f1.7 is f8. It might be a good idea to try f8 and make sure you nail the focus. Don’t trust the infinity mark. Zoom in to 100% using rear LCD to confirm focus.
I have the M50 f1.7 too, and I can confirm, at f8 it is really sharp. In fact, I also have FA50 f2.8 macro and at f8, I cannot see a difference in sharpness between the two in real-life shooting using K-3. Note that, FA50 f2.8 macro got the highest sharpness score regardless of focal length from the lens testing site above.
While I like both lenses, I am thinking about selling them to get a 55* for its WR feature. (in fact, I already put the1.7 on sale. the FA will follow soon)
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
11-20-2017, 12:56 AM
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Yeah, Harron, don't use the infinity stop on the lens, actually focus.
I suggest magnified Live View for landscapes.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
11-19-2017, 05:13 PM
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Welcome to the Pentax forum!!!
For portraits, your 50mm will be fine, but if you want images that are sharper than your 18-55mm zoom, you'll need to consider a modern DA prime. I do not know of any new primes lenses that are 'razor sharp' under 300 euros. Perhaps you can find one used. The closest would be:
a) Pentax HD DA 35mm f/2.8 Macro Limited
b) Pentax HD DA 21mm f/3.2 AL Limited
c) Pentax HD DA 15mm f/4 ED AL Limited
When I was starting out in photography, due to bank account and my lack of confidence, I spent a lot of time with cheaper affordable lenses. But they produced below my expectations. I was so frustrated that the day came when I knew if I were to continue with photography, I needed the best, even if it was more expensive than I could really afford.
All those cheaper lenses are long gone, but I still have and use the more expensive lenses decades later. Given that you have a respectable 18-55mm zoom, I'd recommend the 15mm prime.
On the telephoto end, the Pentax-D FA 100mm f/2.8 WR Macro is exceptional, and as zooms go, the Pentax HD DA 55-300mm f/4.5-6.3 ED PLM WR RE is very, very nice.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
11-19-2017, 05:25 PM
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Happy to oblige, Haroon. As I don't know which of the various 18-55mm kit zooms you have, I'd always recommend getting the original petal-shaped, bayonet-fitting ones.
As for your smc Pentax-M 50mm F1.7, I would likely go with a rubber 3rd-party option. Not strictly dedicated (i.e. for that particular lens only), but close enough. This one by B + W is a quality item that won't disappoint in actual use (make sure that you get the 49mm size):B+W 49MM RUBBER LENS HOOD #900: Amazon.it: Elettronica
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