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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
08-22-2023, 06:06 AM
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I run Fedora and Slackware at home and just pull down the .zip file, extract it and drop the correct file into the root directory of the SD card. Never had a problem with updating the K-3, K-3ii, K-3iii, K-500, or K2000. Mark likely has the correct file names but Linux will handle .zip files without issue.
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Forum: General Photography
04-04-2024, 09:12 AM
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Don't make me dream of such things.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
03-26-2024, 09:56 AM
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I think the most likely cases have been covered here already. I would also make sure the battery is good as I didn't see that mentioned but I may have missed it if already stated. Letting it get a good fix and updated with the latest satellite info is one of the things that gets missed if a GPS unit has been off for a while or has been moved a large distance since last used.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
03-22-2024, 10:51 AM
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Sort of. More physical aperture will show more stars but the lower F number will show more of the gas clouds and the like.
This is really a consideration so if you want to avoid problems with the really wide stuff just shoot at 200/(focal length) for you exposure time and take several shots then stack.
As far as general advise to the original question my view would be 2 parts. First are you going for some part of the milky way over some thing or are you going for the milky way arch over everything? Once you know that things become easier. if going for the milky way arch you will be stitching images regardless of what lens you use. If going for part of the milky way over something then you need to decide how you want the frame to look. Lots of milky way with a small object, lot of milky way with the object fairly big. , small object, etc. Ideally I would be going for a lens that gets the general framing right without having to stitch as it makes your life easier and there are some added benefits one can get if you stack with program like Sequator which will freeze the ground and sky and give you the framing of a reference frame. If you have been doing things for a while then use multiple shots with a stack for the sky and one for the foreground (bulb).
When I have done milky way shots I like going pretty wide and will use my Laowa 12/2.8 Zero-D, however the last time I was screwing around by the car in the WPA parking area nearby and got a really nice framing with a 50mm (SMC A 50/1.2 at f/2) on my K-3iii with the barn smaller in frame. So I would say use any of them up to a 50mm but go for the framing you want.
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Forum: Photographic Technique
03-18-2024, 07:49 AM
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Forum: Photographic Technique
03-15-2024, 12:26 PM
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For a general piece of advise learn the mechanics used for shooting a long gun. Shooting photos and shooting a rifle aren't all that different in the mechanics. When I really want to shoot handheld in low light I will even use my camera strap like I use the sling on my deer rifle which helps a lot. Elbows in at your sides (no chicken wings), pause your breathing halfway in or out, a strong wide stance with your feed, gently squeeze the release button, if kneeling rest an elbow on your thigh (don't use the knee). Those are just a few of the methods used but you need to practice them to get good. I state this and show these techniques when I do photography merit badge as a lot of the scouts have already done them when they did rifle and/or shotgun merit badge. The big difference is with shotgun shooting you slap the trigger instead of gently squeeze it so I make sure they understand that you don't just rapidly mash the shutter release button.
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Forum: General Photography
03-13-2024, 09:11 AM
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I have seen some recent shots of it taken with an 85mm on FF that will show the comet with a long tail and Andromeda with something in the foreground that looks nice. On APS-C something like a 200mm would probably have the comet with its tail filling the frame and maybe even a 135mm doing this but you would need dark skies to really see the really long faint parts of the tail. If I can find some time I want to go see about running a 50mm on the K-3iii on it early some morning. I really want to head out to a nice dark bortle 2 location but that is a long drive and would make for a brutal day.
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Forum: General Photography
03-12-2024, 10:50 AM
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I've been trying to find a night to go shoot it since November as it has been camera visible since then. With its current location in the general area of M31 (the Andromeda galaxy) one should be able to get some good shots of it early in the morning in the northern hemisphere. I know some over in the astro group got some shots of it when it was up by cygnus a while back.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
03-07-2024, 12:18 PM
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I tried a while back to create the great astro lens test thread over in the astrophotography group and after a bit it just kind of fell by the wayside like so many things do but there is probably some useful information in there for you. I know that I posted a number of things showing how they performed with various settings. I too like tinkering and did post a bunch of tinker results.
That sounds lke me. I have a good number of lenses of the same or nearly the same focal length and a few that I own multiple copies of the same lens. Like the 3 28mm lenses I have (S-M-C 28/3.5 takumar, A 28/2.8, and Vivitar Series 1 28/1.9), the K 30/2 because what is 2mm between friends, then there are the 3 35mm lenses I own (DA 35/2.8 limited macro, K 35/2, and Enna Werk Munchen 35/3.5). I also have 2 300mm F/4 lenses, 2 200mm F/2.8 lenses with a 200/4 for good measure, 3 135mm lenes two of which are the same lens because I like it so much I bought a second copy incase something happens, more 50mm lenes than I know what to do with 2 of which are the A 50/1.2 (yes I have 2 copies of that lens as well).
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
02-21-2024, 09:13 AM
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Another to consider but is still expensive is the Laowa 12mm F/2.8 Zero-D. I use that for my ultrawide astro stuff where I want to put something big in the foreground.
That siad what kind of astrophotography do you want to do. You said stars and milky way but is that some constellations, bigger messier objects like the Pleiades cluster (M45), landscapes with a partial milky way, a landscape with the whole milky way arch, chase deep sky objects, there is a lot of options and you will want/need different lenses for them. I have gotten some good shots of the milky way and that same barn from a larger distance using a 50mm on my K-3iii.
Yes aperture matters and throwing more at the problem solves a lot of problems in astro the easiest way. However with the O-GPS unit enabling astrotracer (or type 3 for those of us lucky enough to have a camera with it) it means you don't have to have the fastest lens possible but even there that helps immensely. I would suggest using what you have for now and if you don't really know what you want to do in astro hold off buying lenses as you can go down a very expensive road.
An old pentas 200/4 (any of them going all the way back to the S-M-C 200/4 takumar) will be a good starter lens for the bigger deep sky objects and messier objects, just run them at f/5.6. For a fair amount of time that was my big astro glass on APS-C and you can get some great shots of things once you know what you are doing. A 50mm lens on APS-C will allow you to frame up the entireity of Orion's body so offers a pretty wide field of view. The Pentax 50mm lenses basically all want to be run at f/2.8 for astro and will produce good results. Of all of the Pentax 28mm lenses I have used for astro the best one is the old S-M-C 28mm F/3.5 Takumar and it gets as good as it is going to be at f/4 and is better there than the newer A 28/2.8 is when it is at f/4. The suggestion of the Samyang/Rokinon 135/2 UMC is a good one and with a good copy it is a very good astro lens but wide open it vignetts hard for astro and bloats stars, at f/2.8 the star bloat is gone but the vignetting is still pretty bad until you get to f/4 but that is correctable if you take flat frames.I really like the old K 35/2 for astro and the last time I used it got good results at f/2.8 and found that is did better for astro than newer 35s but there I have had only a limited selection (Da 35/2.4 plastif fantastic and DA 35/2.8 limited macro). If you want to throw money at things there is always the DA * 200/2.8 which with the limited astro used I have with it is fantastic but I haven't figured how wide open I can run it so have treated it like the A* 200/2.8 which I run at f/4 for outstanding results, or for even more money the A* 400/2.8 ED [IF] which is perfect when run at f/3.5. Years back I did stumble upon the old Sigma 300mm F/4 APO Tele Macro which is really good for astro on APS-C and is great when run at f/5.6. Recently I did try the HD DA 15/4 limited for some wider astro attempting to get some northern lights through the light pollution of the cities and it performed well enough but I didn't put it through its paces as I was in a really bad location and was not planning on doing astro as it was a scout campout.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
02-09-2024, 08:50 AM
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I haven't gotten that monster but I did investigate it for one area where I would likely make good use of it. That was for astrophotography where things get a bit strange. For doing astro the HD DFA* 50/1.4 is basically just like all other Pentax 50s where for astro it basically gets as good as it is going to get at f/2.8. It does do better with purple fringing and star bloat wide open than the older ones but has the same coma problem in the corners and edges to the same degree as the others.
That said it likely is a stellar lens for more normal shooting and it does sound like the glow wide open has been brought under control. My general view on fast 50s is that they have been a solved problem for a very long time (see the 8 element 50/1.4 Super Tak) so improvements to them as time has progressed have been incremental not revolutionary. Better coatings, tweaked optical design, different glass, etc. giving that little bit of improvement over time. The current one has a lot more elements and a lot bigger glass and I don't think anyone would say it is out performed by the old FA 50/1.4 but one would have a very hard time telling an image shot with the FA 50/1.4 @ f/5.6 from the same image shot with the HD DFA * 50/1.4 also at F/5.6
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
02-07-2024, 08:59 AM
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For lens elements I will often use distilled water and a mirco fiber cloth, however some lenses I have acquired over the years came from a smoking household and the denatured water didn't remove that residue so there I use the nice denatured alcohol from the hardware store (the one that is shellac thinner/remover) and that does the trick. Ethanol with a splash or methanol is a pretty mild solvent and a nice clean microfiber cloth provide good results.
For cases where the grease has migrated to places it shouldn't be naphtha and a q-tip work wonders. For those who don't know zippo fluid is also naphtha but more expensive and in a smaller container. One of my A 50/1.2 lenses had an almost stuck and exceptionally slow aperture because the grease had migrated so much so I got it a a huge discount and aftre opening cleaning the migrated grease and re-lubing sparingly it is a great use of $200. It is much more aggressive of a solvent than ethanol is so I use is very sparingly when I might get it on things I don't want it on. I generally steer clear of the really strong solvents when cleaning things as those might strip coatings and/or damage plastic. Even something like mineral spirits or turpentine might be too aggressive and things like toluene, xylylene, or acetone are right out.
For trying to minimize dust I assemble things upside down as much as I can so that falling dust doesn't fall in things. Use the squeeze blower with the object upside down to blow anything that may have fallen in out and when putting the next thing in it wait until the last second to fip it right side up to prevent any dust from landing on it while putting it in. It is slow and arduous but I have had great results.
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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
01-31-2024, 09:53 AM
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My stuff is either WR or so old it doesn't care. Some of the more extreme conditions I have used it in were in a November gale on superior a couple years ago and got some great shots of waves crashing up the cliffs. And last year had a number of soaking events in Iceland when getting up near and under waterfalls as well as one day of surprisingly hard all day rain there. Then there is the cold weather shooting I have done but this year has been surprisingly warm so I haven't had to deal with that extreme.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
01-30-2024, 02:51 PM
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Unless you want to get into very specialized macro stuff you are probably good for now with lenses. Depending on how you use the reversed 50 you might be getting close to 2:1. Personally for getting to about 2:1 macro I like reversing my S-M-C 28/3.5 Takumar and can got bigger with extension tubes/focusing helicoid. I would say if you want to improve your abilities look for other accessories like a good ring light if you don't have one and a focusing rail. Then get use to focus stacking and sorting out the oddities that come from that.
For macro stuff I have the older D FA 100/2.8 macro, DA 35/2.8 limited macro, some crazy reverse mounted setup (laowa 12/2.8 reversed inside the hood of the Rokinon 135/2 UMC), and what I really like for a longer macro the Lester A. Dine 105/2.8 dental macro (rebranded Kron 105/2.8 macro). I still dream of finding a FA* 200/4 macro but I think my wife would kill me if I bought it.
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Forum: General Photography
01-29-2024, 09:02 AM
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Well the flash is probably 3 times as thick as the camera and probably 7 times as tall. It would look absurd which is funny.
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Forum: General Photography
01-26-2024, 11:57 AM
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I see what you mean. That lens is way too new, you should probably see about getting an early Enna Werk Munchen lens on there (like an all shiny aluminum exterior 35/4.5 one) to really stir the pot.
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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
01-24-2024, 09:36 AM
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By collect I mostly rehome things that I get from friends and family that I find neat. Sometime it is a cheap pawn shop find (my Kodak Pocket Jr. with that awesome art deco styling) where it was cheap and I thought it would be fun. Other times it is something I find humor or joy in that it exists (my working Auto 110) but apart from what I use it is mostly stuff I have been given by others. The most recent was last year by a friend of my wife who was going through their parents stuff and found an old 116 format Kodak Brownie that they didn't know what do do with and asked me if it was worth anything. It is the last or second to last series of brownies that were cardboard so is interesting from that perspective but is well worn so would maybe fetch $20-$25. They said I could have it so now it is an interesting shelf piece, but last night I realized that I may be able to use it as I have access to a metal mill/lathe combo so I can make a mask to go in it and spool adapters so that I can run 120/220 film in it. given that I carefully opened the front of it to carefully clean the mirrors and ground glass on the inside for the viewfinders and also clean the the lens. The rotery shutter works and the selector slide for "normal" or "bulb" mode works as does the aperture selector. So on Thursday night and Saturday I will probably machine some big bolts down to make some spool adapters and then machine out an adapter plate so I can take 6x7 or 6x9 (need to figure out what is the biggest I can reasonably get away with) shots.
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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
12-18-2023, 01:47 PM
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Rumor and speculation time.
Always fun to dream.
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Forum: Pentax K-3 III
12-20-2023, 11:39 AM
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I think there is a very good case that can be made for FF or APS-C. For me I am in the APS-C camp with the K-3iii and previously (still used) K-3 and K-3ii. If I need a higher resolution there are a lot of tricks I can use to get to some huge pixel counts that I have used when I want but for how I generally shoot having those really fast great lenses on a crop sensor with a high pixel density is really helpful. The example I use is I have the A* 400/2.4 and use to hang my K-3 off of the back of it for astor shooting. To get a similar FoV I would need to use the 600/4 on full frame giving up a full stop of already sparse light. The A* 600/4 isn't as good as the A* 400/2.8 so I would have to stop it down more to get the same image quality. While the K-1 has better noise and dynamic range than the original K-3 at the ISOs I use for astro shooting so just looking at loss in light and better sensor it ends up being a wash. However the 600mm would likely require a bit more stopping down so that would tip the balance to the K-3 + 400/2.8. That also ignore the price difference between the A* 400/2.8 and A* 600/4 and the added difficulty of finding an A* 600/4 over the already difficult task of getting the A* 400/2.8. Then the K-3iii came out and has better dynamic range and less noise than the K-1ii does at the ISOs I use for astro so it was the best option for me (even ignoring type 3 astrotracer which was a game changer giving me an extra stop of exposure time over type 1).
The point here is to get the best option one really needs to understand what they are doing, what the limitations are and what is the right tool.
The biggest image I have had printed was a print that was 36"x24" inches and that was taken with the K-3ii and was a stitched panorama of pixel shift images shot at f/5.6 with the A 50/1.2. I have also done a 2'x2' metal print of a super resolution focus stacked image taken with my K-3 and Sigma 300/4 APO Tele macro that was shot at f/8.
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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
12-07-2023, 10:59 AM
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Having used the K-3iii and astrotracer type 3 as well as having a small equatorial that I need to supplement with a bigger one hopefully I can shed some light on thigns.
Most astrophotographers use an equatorial mount of some sort. Depending on focal length and exposure times per shot a guide scope, camera, and guiding software may or may not be used. I don't have an autoguider setup and my little equatorial doesn't support one. The general sky tracking is done with the natural movement of the equatorial and is mostly dependent on how good your polar alignment is. The purpose of an autoguider setup is to correct for inaccuracies in the polar alignment as well as errors and inconsistencies in the movement of the equatorial. There are all sorts of setups for an autoguider system some will split off some of the photons from the primary lens, other use separate guide scope that is either in the same axis as the primary lens/scope or may be pointed differently (off axis guiding). In all setups you will need a separate guide camera that is connected to a device that does the processing to produce the guiding corrections. That device is connected to the equatorial and provides signals to correct the movement. That device can be a self contained unit like the MGEN-3 or a computer running software like Stellarium or other similar software. Most modern autoguiding systems offer sub pixel corrections and will make use of multistar guiding to provide better more consistant results.
Now on to AT type 3. For those who haven't played around much with any version of astrotracer it functions like an alt-az mount (x/y linear movement) with field rotation (rotational portion of the sky movement). Depending on where you have the camera pointed in the sky there will be differing amount of linear and rotational movement. For example having the celestial pole centered in the frame all the movement will be rotational while pointing it so that the celestial equator is centered in the frame results in all linear movement. Astrotracer uses the IBIS system to do the tracking and the theoretical maximum tracking time is limited by the maximum movement of the sensor in the x/y axes or the rotation that the sensor can do and the focal length of the lens. If one looks at the info page on the O-GPS units where they go into the details of tracking you will notice that in a lot of cases focal length affects the tracking time, except when pointed at a celestial pole. This is because the linear speed across the sensor is higher with longer lenses but the rotational angular speed remains the same with 1.5 degrees of rotation around the celestial pole being the same regardless of the lens. Also the celestial pole is likely not straight up but in the northern hemisphere is somewhere very close to Polaris (the north star) or if in the souther hemisphere near octans and the southern cross, also the celestial equator is not at the horizon but will line somehere between the horizon and celestial pole when facing directly towards earth's equator.
The use of astrotracer type 1 (original GPS based one) is rather finicky but once one masters it and figures out why it fails and struggles it could produce fairly good results however its estimated maximum exposure time was always wildly optimistic. The best I ever managed was getting great 20s exposures very near the celestial equator with a 400mm lens and once I managed 40s near the celestial pole. With Type 3 and my 400mm I have gotten substantally better results being able to get great results at 40s along the celestial equator with that 400mm.
The way type 3 functions is that it takes a preimage of the sky, possibly 2 I can't really tell, but it does not do autoguiding like realtime corrections while taking the shot. With the K-3iii this portion takes 12s and then it spends the next 18 seconds processign things to figure out the movement of the stars across the sky. Assuming that the data processing works it then proceeds to take the shot. With subsequent updates to the K-3iii the intervolometer feature has gotten better. This is important because when you use the intervolometer mode with astrotracer type 3 it will only take 1 preimage and then proceed to take the sequence of shots. With my 400mm I will frame up the object I am shooting set the exposure time to 40s and the intervolometer to take a shot every 41 seconds, no delay between shots, 6 total shots and to start immediately when I press the release button (remote release cable). When it finishes with that interval it is time to reframe the object and repeat.
If you notice I mentioned that this assumes that the data processing works. I have probed things to figure out where and how data processing fails. As is mentioned having things in the foreground or something big like the moon in the frame will confuse it and cause it to fail. However there are more reasons for it to fail. The first big one is being off on the focus and getting bloated stars. Bloated stars result in it not being able to really figure out what is a star or possibly not being able to effectively calculate the movement of them since they are bloated. A similar case is if the lens gets fogged/frosted (happens when you shoot the night sky) and the stars end up bloated. The other failure case I have found is if the focal length is off. I have lots of old manual lenses so I found that even being +/- 5mm with a 200mm will result in it confusing itself. This tells me that the problems with the zooms is that they don't report their focal length accurately unless you have them at the long or shot end.
While I think astrotracer is great it will struggle with wide and ultrawide lenses as the movement will be most correct in the center of the frame and gradually gets worse as you move out from there. That can be mitigated by using shorter exposures that are still longer than what you could do untracked.
I am surprised but pleased to see that type 3 is being backpored to older cameras. I figured they used some special DLP chip to do the processing but I may have been wrong as it seems like there is a lot of data to process with limited RAM and processor. K-1 and K-1ii owners enjoy your new toy if you are into astro or want to try it out.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
01-02-2024, 10:07 AM
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This is my recommendation as well and what I did for this image however I exposed for the barn and the sky in each shot with the bar illuminated with an old manual flash (Vivitar 285HV @ 1/16 power plus the supplied diffuser) and the sky was shot untracked with ~20s exposures. Everything was stacked in sequator with the freeze background and freeze foreground option:
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Forum: Photographic Technique
01-05-2024, 09:15 AM
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Since you have the K->Q adapter you can more or less take glass out of the equation. As has been noted pixel density and other properties of the pixels on the sensor will matter. The K-70 will have lower noise and better dynamic range at a given ISO but will have lower resolving power as it is much less pixel dense than the Q. When it comes to glass you may run into cases where the resolving power of the Q and K-70 are more or less the same. For this to happen diffraction starts to take over so depending on where you have the lens stopped down to this may start to happen. In such a case the airy disc created from a point light source becomes bigger than the pixel pitch of the K-70. Here shooting at the that f-stop and ISO on either camera will result in being able to resolve the same because going to a more pixel dense sensor all you get is false magnification. For stopping down with astro you do it to clean up things like color fringing, coma, star bloat, and get the lens to the needed sharpness.
So here to figure out what the better option is you need to consider what you are shooting. For fairly large bright objects like the moon the Q becomes a clear winner. For dark largeish deep sky objects (DSOs) the K-70 would likely be a better options. For planets like Mars, Venus, Jupiter, or even Saturn which are all pretty bright the reach of the Q would provide better results but you will still need more reach (really need a minimum of 2000mm FF equivalent) but even at 1200mm FF equivalent level one can get not complete garbage results.
I say this as someone who somewhat regularly wants to get a Q to hang off the back of some of my big glass because one hanging off the back of the A* 400/2.8 ED [IF] + SMC A 1.4X-L converter would probably give some great results for imaging the moon, sun, and planets.
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Forum: Pentax K-3 III
04-05-2022, 09:55 AM
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Previous versions handled arcs just fine unless you are using an ultrawide lens with a very long exposure and don't have it centered on a celestial pole. I've shot a number of things close to polaris like M51, M81, and M82 with my 300mm and 400mm lens and my K-3 and never had problems with the large amount of rotational movement in the frame and that would have been with basically the original type 1 astrotracer. there may have been some issues with a beta version of type 3 astrotracer but with the final version it seems pretty solid.
At 28mm you probably could have gone substantially longer for the sky portion. Last week I was out failing to get some aurora shots so eventually stuck a longer lens on and chased the Rosette Nebula for a while. I managed this with 19 shots that were 60s each with a 200mm (SMC A* 200/2.8 @F/3.5 and ISO 2500):
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Forum: Pentax K-3 III
01-04-2024, 01:01 PM
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My take on the K-3iii after having one for a while now. I find that the AF is fantastic and much improved over my K-3 and K-3ii. That is probably the thing that is the biggest improvement for most people but I never had problems with the K-3 or K-3ii so that wasn't a big selling point for me. For me the big benefits are the increased dynamic range and better noise at higher ISOs over the K-3 and K-3ii. What sealed the deal for me was astrotracer type 3. Those are important to me because of my primary use case doing astrophotography. The dynamic range and noise with the K-3iii at the ISOs I use for astro are better than the K-1ii which is why I was initially considering getting a K-3iii. With type 3 astrotracer I don't need to deal with the inaccuracies of the old type 1 GPS based astrotracer where so many things beyond my control can throw it off. With type 3 I went from being able to get good 20s astro shots with type 1 on my K-3 or K-3ii and my 400mm lens to being able to get 40s shots with the same 400mm but on the K-3iii. This was shooting very near the celestial equator where the linear movement is greatest over a given time.
I have never found the cooking of the RAW images to be an issue but then when not shooting astro I am almost always shooting at base ISO often off of a tripod. I have never experienced the overheating issue and will do a lot of pray and spray shooting with things in movement or when I don't have a tripod as I use that to paper over some of my shortcomings with holding a camera. One of the things that I found it does better than the K-3 and K-3ii is the auto white balance does a great job on the K-3iii. With the battery consumption I really haven't noticed any real difference between it and my other cameras. I say that as I did get a full new set of batteries for the K-3 and K-3ii both of which have grips so I am not comparing old batteries to new ones as I have 6 batteries all about the same age (1 in each camera and one in the grip for each). There may be some difference if things like wifi, bluetooth, or the screen are used regularly but I keep all that stuff off unless I need to use one of them.
I did spend the time to do the AF fine adjustment with all of my AF lenses and after that it just seems to nail the focus. It does better than the K-3 and K-3ii did even using the same calibration target (a yard stick on the ground with me shooting down and towards it at between 30 and 45 degrees).
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Forum: Photographic Technique
12-29-2023, 03:35 PM
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For me it offered ways to analyze a scene to make sense of what picture is there to be found. I will see something and think that is a nice view but more often than not when I take a picture it is one where I go that kind of sucks as it is missing what ever it was that I liked about the original view. My problem is my brain is by far too analytical and really lacks in the creativity department so anything that points me in a general direction means I will figure things out sooner instead of massive trail and error that I normally go through. There are a few spots where I know I can get a great shot either because of what is there and I already stumbled upon where and how to get a great image, or I know that under the right conditions something great will happen if I am just setup there ready to shoot I can capture it.
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