The K-3 and K-3 II have a lot of strengths. I think those are mostly obvious or else we wouldn't all be here. But the camera has a lot of weaknesses too. I don't necessarily specs that lag behind other brands, but inherent weaknesses to the K-3 design that can get in your way while shooting. Here's a list of my own top 5, uh I mean...7 weaknesses of the ergonomics and controls.
Confusing front buttons: Including the x-sync socket cover, there are four little nubs running up the front left side of the camera that you need to press by feel alone. The AF mode and Raw/Fx button have exactly the same tactile response, and if you're not careful, it can be easy to grab one and think you have the other. The problem could easily be solved by texturing one of the buttons. They could make it even better (for use with gloves) by utilizing the other side of the camera front for the custom function button, like Nikon, Canon and Fuji all do.
Too few Fn buttons and lack of many functions for them: Even though Pentax offers a good amount of external controls and customizations available to the dials and green button which confusingly change in each respective shooting mode, there's only one button on the camera that could truly be called a function button, which has a rather limited set of possible functions. I have mine set to toggle SR, and then I menu-dive to change JPEG image size, which is tedious.
Playback button location: I prefer to keep automatic image review off and only review images as needed - this preference mainly comes from the fact that I need to use the rear LCD to change certain settings on the K-3 like white balance or certain drive mode specifics, which don't show up on the top LCD. So, an automatically displayed image can get in the way of a quick follow up shot with different settings. Needing to use my left hand to toggle playback is annoying and tedious. I might be supporting the lens with my left hand, so I end up breaking my shooting stance just to review an image, which ought to be a quick process.
Changing AF mode: The K-5 had a beautifully intuitive switch for AF point selection on the back of the camera. With the K-3, we lost that and gained a movie mode toggle that nobody needs to access so quickly that they can't shift their grip. As I've been shooting with my 55-300mm PLM more and more, I've been discovering how badly set up the K-3 is for changing between AF-S and AF-C modes. Namely, when I change from AF-S with spot (not Select) center point to AF-C with 9 point area selection, that the 4-way controller is automatically toggled to become an AF point selector, and I then need to press an additional button (not conveniently located, and the indicator for which is not easily visible in the viewfinder if you wear glasses) to switch it back and access those controls, namely WB and drive mode, again. My workaround has been to assign one of my custom user slots to be my dedicated "action" mode because otherwise, there are just too many tedious button presses for a simple AF mode change.
Live View button location: This is another one that mystifies me. Live View can be a useful way to confirm focus while shooting MF lenses, so moving it all the way to where you can't reach it from a shooting grip just makes the camera less useful.
Rear LCD screen in shooting mode: There's no single button press to make the Info screen go dark while shooting, and also no eye sensor to make it go dark when you bring the camera up to your eye. It will go dark with a shutter half-press, but The only way to turn it off permanently is with five (count them) total button presses across three separate buttons (Info, Info, Right, Right, OK). Getting the Info screen back is just about as bad (Info, Info, Right, OK), so it's not really a "quick info" screen. This is mostly an annoyance because the top LCD is missing certain important info (namely, white balance and AF mode), so I end up looking at the rear LCD most of the time instead of the top LCD, but bringing the camera up to my face in low light, I get light in my face.
Switching between cards while shooting: Strangely, there is no obvious menu setting to set to only record to card 1 for a while, and then change it to only record to card 2 for a while. And if you power on the camera while only card 2 is in the camera, and then put card 1 back in the camera later, then the camera will now record to card 2 as default. The only way to change it back is to physically remove card 2 and power on the camera with only card 1 inserted.
So what are your biggest gripes with the K-3/K-3II?