|
Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
2 Days Ago
|
| |
Hi Biz, it's odd, but the specs are not in the manual. The external HDMI port will run up to HD 1920x1080. For the eclipse and travel, I have a Viewsonic VA1655 portable monitor. It has a mini HDMI input and USB C inputs for power and video. I used one for the eclipse. Quality isn't the greatest, but it really helps having a bigger screen.
I don't know the answer on Image Sync - maybe someone else knows.
|
|
Forum: Post Your Photos!
6 Days Ago
|
| |
| |
|
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
04-06-2024, 05:33 AM
|
| |
Or tell him to learn how to use the metering, to expose correctly!
|
|
Forum: Pentax Medium Format
03-23-2024, 07:32 PM
|
| |
If anything is protruding more than maybe 1/8 inch past the camera-side of the 3 bayonet blade, then it might interfere. I can't tell from your photo if the inner black ring or glass are flush with the camera side of the flange, or protruding into the mirror box.
|
|
Forum: Pentax Medium Format
03-23-2024, 09:13 AM
|
| |
There is a ton of difference. I have them both. The 90 is a very modern design with everything they could put into a lens - great if used handheld.
The 120 is an old-school lens that has excellent DOF capabilities and I use it extensively for product pack shots and the occasional portrait. Tripod recommended.
|
|
Forum: Travel, Events, and Groups
03-23-2024, 09:16 AM
|
| |
Pretty much everywhere here takes Plastic (credit cards) with CHIP&PIN or Tap. But having $100 CAD is a good idea, in case you get stuck somewhere. We'll happily take USD at par ;-)
|
|
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
03-12-2024, 05:55 PM
|
| |
t(read and write all these interesting posts) > t(needed to test).
|
|
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
03-11-2024, 10:06 AM
|
| |
It's totally usable. What are you missing? It depends a bit on the vintage of the 645 lens. The coatings got better over time and newer ones are not all-metal bodies, so are lighter. I've done some bake-off comparisons, and found the FA645 lenses generally very good, some better than others. Some of the older A lenses are quite good. I have a 645 A*300 that is almost as sharp as the 35mm HD 150-450 at 300mm, and weighs less.
|
|
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
03-11-2024, 09:59 AM
|
| |
If you own it, try it, and report back.
The dimming feature might use Pulse-Width Modulation - so flickering may be detectable.
The colour spectrum may need white balance correction, or emphasis of certain wavelengths.
|
|
Forum: General Talk
02-19-2024, 07:37 AM
|
| |
See if there is a write-protect switch on the card or the adapter (eg MicroSD to regular SD). Write protect the card before putting it into the computer. That way no files can be delete or file systems corrupted.
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 III
02-18-2024, 07:16 AM
|
| |
Birds in flights - that's challenging. You're capturing the birds, but they are usually leaving the frame.
Possibly the issue is delay between when you realize the bird is moving and when the shutter fires.
You could use a Custom setting to save all your settings so you minimize the delays. eg turn off all automatic stuff and go for manual focus by better planning and add more depth of field. Or if using autofocus, use the button on the back, and set the shutter to not autofocus on half-press.
More magnification with the extender is just going to make the angle of view narrower, which means the birds have more time to get out of the frame.
---------- Post added 02-18-24 at 09:28 AM ----------
Another comment - have a look at some of the shots by these folks - and their settings:
Dennisleica: Gull MTN - PentaxForums.com
Kiddo70: Back to simple images - PentaxForums.com
MikeNArk: A few Woodpeckers - PentaxForums.com |
|
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
02-18-2024, 11:16 AM
|
| |
Actually there is no such thing as "Mirror Down Shooting" in an SLR... as it blocks the light to the film or sensor. ;-) Just MLU or Normal Shooting, where the mirror goes up just before the shutter opens.
|
|
Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
02-09-2024, 06:55 AM
|
| |
A couple of tips:
Think about it as shooting a portrait of your product - you want to flatter the product and make it look beautiful.
So... posing and lighting are important.
Pick the prettiest models.
What do I mean?
Top photo of two boxes - take the wrapper off, square up the boxes so they look perfectly rectangular. You might need to glue the lids or tape them on the inside. Noone will know the boxes are empty, but they need to look right.
Next two - the stamped logo isn't centred. If this is soap, check your other samples for ones that are more square and centred.
Shampoo - you had 2 strip lights above the product. They are perfectly reflected. This is where diffuse lighting can help. Turn off the ceiling lights.
Deodorant - camera or product not quite straight and square, but otherwise acceptable.
Stuff to buy:
You might want to buy a Datacolor Spyder Elite for color calibration of your computer monitor: Products - Datacolor Spyder
Most photo stores and online sellers have them.
|
|
Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
02-08-2024, 07:32 AM
|
| |
Hi Mach, PSchlute makes some great points. Here's some ideas, that should help you get going, and keep costs under control:
TLDR version: You need 2 lights like Godox AD200 and a softbox and stand for each, and a background and table, and a Godox trigger for Pentax (assuming that's the camera you have).
Long version:
1. Dimly lit room - you want to avoid light you can't control. e.g. sunilght streaming in a window. Other people walking by. Light sources like computer monitors or TVs.
2. Work table big enough to hold the product, but not so big that you can't walk around it. At a comfortable height.
3. Decide on your background or work surface colours.
a) For example, I shoot a lot of product on a pure white paper background. It makes it easy to turn it transparent for web or print advertising.
b) Black backgrounds are great too, but it is hard to delineate the product if it is dark in color. eg comes in a black box or package.
c) fancy shiny or sparkly backgrounds or bases become a nightmare for lighting until you get really good at it. So usually best to avoid until you have the basics of lighting the product the way you want mastered.
4. Figure out how to support the background.
Peter's comment about a light tent, also known as a light box is a good one for starters. I no longer use one as I'm dealing with bigger lighting and trickier products.
The tent/box has benefits - Usually it's easy to reach in, reorient the product, and pop the camera back into position.
The V-Flat cone thingy will do the same job, but the access for the lens is pretty restrictive since you can only come in from "above".
5. How to hold the background - there are kits with a stand and rod to spool up some roll paper or white table cloth or a muslin drape - the less texture, the better.
Simple and cheap is best - eg some 2x4 pieces of wood work wonders, or even use foam-core or bristol board (big sheets of white or colored heavy card)
Spring clamps from the workbench or toolbox help, as do big binder clips for holding drapes and paper in place.
6. Macro lens for the camera - for small items, you'll probably want to get close.
7. Lots of depth-of-field - I often shoot at small apertures eg f/16, so I can keep the front and back edges of the product in focus
This means you need a LOT of light
8. Two lights, probably 3, maybe 4.
Two lights - To start, often you'll set them for equal brightness, and position them about 45 degrees to the left and right of the product, and elevate them above the product.
You might add a background light to help differentiate the background from the back edges of the product.
You might add a "halo" or "hair light" or snoot above to accentuate some part like a logo. This is tricky.
9. What to use for lights? (Going from cheap to better)
a) For small things, with a light box or that V-Flat Cone, you could start with desk lamps equipped with 5000K ("Daylight") bulbs. This is a cheap, easy, but not the most effective.
b) LED Video lights - often there are small light panels available that are intensely bright.
c) Flashes - many camera flashes come with a foot or mounting block that lets you put them off-camera. You may need a third unit or a remote trigger that mounts on the camera and sends a signal to the flashes to fire.
The Godox ones are decent and priced right. There are cheaper ones, but make sure they are compatible with your camera.
d) Mini Strobes - baby strobes like the Godox AD200 Pro are actually really amazingly good for the price.Generally these are at least twice as bright as an on-camera flash, may include a modelling light (continuous light) to help you position the light, and are designed for heavier use than an on-camera type flash. You'll need a light stand or maybe a tripod with a raisable centre post.
e) Studio Strobes - Something like the Godox AD400 or 600 units put out a ton of light and recharge quickly. You'll need light stands. Often found in the Used section of the local camera store.
These get in the way, but are like having sunshine you can control.
For c) there are various diffusers like the Godox Softbox you mention. You'll need at least 2 sets (Flash and softbox).
For d and e, there are umbrellas, dishes (parabolic metal reflectors), and softboxes. I use umbrellas and softboxes, and don't like dish light, but that's my taste (and my clients).
Does that help?
Good luck!
|
|
Forum: General Photography
01-26-2024, 11:10 AM
|
| |
I have one of these - it looks great and works fine. Maybe that makes me a sucker for cool retro design...
|
|
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
01-18-2024, 11:12 AM
|
| |
FWIW, I was extremely frustrated with my very expensive Canon PIXMA Pro 9500 Mk II. It regularly gummed up the pile of cartridges and really ate excess ink to get it running again. Pigment inks were good but too darn expensive.
It was replaced by an Epson Surecolor SC-P900 which is very expensive on ink but much more reliable and less wasteful.
|
|
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
02-14-2023, 11:04 AM
|
| |
On a camera lens "infinity" is just a marking on the focus ring. It's never perfect.
It's not the light years. Telescope focus works the same way as any other optical system - it doesn't have a factory-set perfect focus.
Usually there is a point where the "spot size" of the star image is as small as possible, eg it is a tiny circle at the image focal plane.
Ideally you would bring the detector (image sensor, film) to that point, by moving it mechanically.
The problem is that mechanically you can't always do that, so you move the optics closer or further from the focal plane where the detector is. That affects the spot size, and thus how sharp the star is.
With any optical system, eg a camera lens or telescope, one of the biggest factors affecting focus is temperature.
When the temperature is low, the lens assembly will contract - this includes the metal or plastic that holds the optical glass, and the glass itself.
When its warm, the assembly will expand.
So focus will shift a tiny amount, based on this expansion or contraction.
Since stars are nearly a point-source (tiniest possible spot), small errors in focus become more obvious, as the arc spanned by the star at the focal plane is close to the pixel size. (eg wide lenses, the stars will be smaller than the pixel; in long lenses, the stars will span anywhere from 1 to 8 pixels, typically).
The wavelengths of light are also a factor. e.g. blue light vs red light come to a focus at a different place, unless the optical designer has compensated for it. This is why you may see colored fringes around a star.
The atmosphere is another factor - light is refracted less when straight overhead vs going through the thicker amount of air toward the horizon.
When working with really wide lenses, if you point it straight up, and you focus on stars directly overhead, the ones further away from the zenith are going to be less sharp, due to both the atmospheric refraction, and any imperfections in the optical design.
The last thing is that the detector (sensor or film) is usually quite flat; and the optical designer has to come up with a lens design that will take the curved hemisphere of the sky and try to flatten it out as much as possible. Since every lens is a compromise (performance vs cost vs available optics), you will often find the edges of the field are less sharp than the central area.
So "infiinity" is just where the optical designer has designated the place where the lens is likely to be sharpest at far distant targets.
You'll notice most modern lenses don't have a "hard stop" at infiniity - there is a bit of play, and that is to allow the camera to adjust the lens a bit under or over the infinity marking.
I hope that helps.
|
|
Forum: General Photography
01-01-2024, 07:13 PM
|
| |
I should join this noble effort - as I was thinking I might buy 1 lens this year; perhaps I should hold off, and only replace broken items that can't be repaired.
For astrophotographers, when you buy new equipment, you must (a) use it immediately, and (b) sacrifice some other equipment to the *weather gods*... or face their wrath of unending overcast skies.
... so not buying new equipment ensures great weather and starry nights
|
|
Forum: Post Your Photos!
12-31-2023, 08:03 AM
|
| |
Great shot! Perfect angle - looks like you were in a chase plane. The contrasting orange with the grey sky and the leading line of the tip vortex really makes this a great shot. Well done.
|
|
Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
12-27-2023, 06:42 AM
|
| |
Next time there's a Teespring Pentax Forum T-Shirt design for 2024, I'll buy one featuring an indestructible Pentax camera (perhaps in a post-apocalyptic scene) and PENTAX is DOOMED!!!™  in large friendly letters!
|
|
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
12-25-2023, 06:21 AM
|
| |
If possible, try replacing the cable between the graphics card and monitor. Smeared color or fringes = impedance problem = mismatched cable OR the resolution is set too high for what the monitor can display.
|
|
Forum: Photographic Industry and Professionals
12-23-2023, 07:37 PM
|
| |
Well that's because they just don't know Pentax yet.
|
|
Forum: Post Your Photos!
10-03-2023, 05:32 AM
|
| |
Or perhaps the faceless girl and the pink balloons.
|
|
Forum: Post Your Photos!
07-14-2022, 04:26 AM
|
| |
Oh. Mine is usually plugged into a wall outlet. Charging Pentax D-LI90's of course.
|
