Forum: Post Your Photos!
2 Days Ago
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
5 Days Ago
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Lens, camera, or (gently teasing) the decisions made behind the camera ;-)
There's the basic technical stuff (the dust spots and motion blur) but then there is the composition, perspective, and concept.
Some ideas:
- If you had intentionally induced *more*: motion it might be a more interesting photo. - as shot, it doesn't stop the motion nor does it give the speed, exhilaration or joy of motion on the ride.
- shoot from a different position - the dominant thing is the big angry yellow monster
- You don't see the faces of the riders. You see the soles of their shoes. Could you zoom in on some people's faces?
- what about AFTER the ride is done - are they smiling, relieved, scared, happy, shaky?
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
5 Days Ago
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Yes, there are Pentax lenses with active electronics - Microprocessors, EEPROM, ROM, and likely flash memory with firmware. There is a communication protocol between the camera body and lens using SPI communication. In other words, some lenses have a brain that the camera communicates with. Older lenses are more passive - they provide electrical contacts that convey position of things like the f/ stop or lens identification.
What's the point of your question? What do you want to do?
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Forum: General Talk
6 Days Ago
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
6 Days Ago
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t(read and write all these interesting posts) > t(needed to test).
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
03-11-2024, 10:06 AM
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It's totally usable. What are you missing? It depends a bit on the vintage of the 645 lens. The coatings got better over time and newer ones are not all-metal bodies, so are lighter. I've done some bake-off comparisons, and found the FA645 lenses generally very good, some better than others. Some of the older A lenses are quite good. I have a 645 A*300 that is almost as sharp as the 35mm HD 150-450 at 300mm, and weighs less.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
03-11-2024, 09:59 AM
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If you own it, try it, and report back.
The dimming feature might use Pulse-Width Modulation - so flickering may be detectable.
The colour spectrum may need white balance correction, or emphasis of certain wavelengths.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
03-11-2024, 09:54 AM
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Does it misbehave with the a different lens?
Any chance it landed on a button and a setting changed? You could try resetting it.
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Forum: General Talk
03-11-2024, 09:53 AM
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Hey do we know which plug-ins and features HRH used? Is she a forum member?
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Forum: Site Suggestions and Help
03-11-2024, 09:52 AM
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It doesn't work for me either.
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Forum: Visitors' Center
03-11-2024, 09:51 AM
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Most authorized Pentax retailers can get it for you.
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Forum: Ricoh GR
03-11-2024, 09:48 AM
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Nice work. I've wondered if IR was a possibility with this camera.
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Forum: Pentax K-3 III
03-07-2024, 04:31 PM
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Have you tried getting the camera to fire with a boring old cable switch?
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Forum: General Photography
03-01-2024, 06:27 AM
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You don't need a rooftop - it will be hot up there and air currents will make it hard to get a sharp image. You're better to be on a grassy area.
You will need a suitable solar filter. Check B&H Photovideo - they have a ton specifically for the event.
I've used Hoya ND100,000 before. (About 16 stops). The aluminized mylar ones also work well.
Note that some filters do not block all the IR/UV and so you can get permanent retinal damage, so use the live view for focusing.
Practice on several sunny days in advance - you'll want to shoot the sun through the solar filter, and learn how to focus and get some sunspots sharp.
Then pre-eclipse, you'll shoot the same settings of the sun, showing the moon covering more and more of the solar disk. At totality you can remove the filter, and you will have to shoot faster shutter speed.
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Forum: General Talk
02-19-2024, 07:37 AM
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See if there is a write-protect switch on the card or the adapter (eg MicroSD to regular SD). Write protect the card before putting it into the computer. That way no files can be delete or file systems corrupted.
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Forum: Travel, Events, and Groups
02-19-2024, 07:35 AM
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Thanks for sharing that little slice of Tokyo - it's been many years since I went. Where were you in the city?
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
02-19-2024, 07:31 AM
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IIRC, it's known as "surface charge" - under load, the voltage will drop to the actual charge of the battery. When idle and minimal load, the battery will have a higher voltage across it's electrodes.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
02-18-2024, 11:16 AM
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Actually there is no such thing as "Mirror Down Shooting" in an SLR... as it blocks the light to the film or sensor. ;-) Just MLU or Normal Shooting, where the mirror goes up just before the shutter opens.
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Forum: Pentax K-3 III
02-18-2024, 07:16 AM
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Birds in flights - that's challenging. You're capturing the birds, but they are usually leaving the frame.
Possibly the issue is delay between when you realize the bird is moving and when the shutter fires.
You could use a Custom setting to save all your settings so you minimize the delays. eg turn off all automatic stuff and go for manual focus by better planning and add more depth of field. Or if using autofocus, use the button on the back, and set the shutter to not autofocus on half-press.
More magnification with the extender is just going to make the angle of view narrower, which means the birds have more time to get out of the frame. ---------- Post added 02-18-24 at 09:28 AM ---------- Another comment - have a look at some of the shots by these folks - and their settings:
Dennisleica: Gull MTN - PentaxForums.com
Kiddo70: Back to simple images - PentaxForums.com
MikeNArk: A few Woodpeckers - PentaxForums.com |
Forum: Post Your Photos!
02-14-2024, 11:22 AM
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Sorry to hear this, I hope she is alright.
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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
02-09-2024, 06:55 AM
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A couple of tips:
Think about it as shooting a portrait of your product - you want to flatter the product and make it look beautiful.
So... posing and lighting are important.
Pick the prettiest models.
What do I mean?
Top photo of two boxes - take the wrapper off, square up the boxes so they look perfectly rectangular. You might need to glue the lids or tape them on the inside. Noone will know the boxes are empty, but they need to look right.
Next two - the stamped logo isn't centred. If this is soap, check your other samples for ones that are more square and centred.
Shampoo - you had 2 strip lights above the product. They are perfectly reflected. This is where diffuse lighting can help. Turn off the ceiling lights.
Deodorant - camera or product not quite straight and square, but otherwise acceptable.
Stuff to buy:
You might want to buy a Datacolor Spyder Elite for color calibration of your computer monitor: Products - Datacolor Spyder
Most photo stores and online sellers have them.
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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
02-08-2024, 07:32 AM
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Hi Mach, PSchlute makes some great points. Here's some ideas, that should help you get going, and keep costs under control:
TLDR version: You need 2 lights like Godox AD200 and a softbox and stand for each, and a background and table, and a Godox trigger for Pentax (assuming that's the camera you have).
Long version:
1. Dimly lit room - you want to avoid light you can't control. e.g. sunilght streaming in a window. Other people walking by. Light sources like computer monitors or TVs.
2. Work table big enough to hold the product, but not so big that you can't walk around it. At a comfortable height.
3. Decide on your background or work surface colours.
a) For example, I shoot a lot of product on a pure white paper background. It makes it easy to turn it transparent for web or print advertising.
b) Black backgrounds are great too, but it is hard to delineate the product if it is dark in color. eg comes in a black box or package.
c) fancy shiny or sparkly backgrounds or bases become a nightmare for lighting until you get really good at it. So usually best to avoid until you have the basics of lighting the product the way you want mastered.
4. Figure out how to support the background.
Peter's comment about a light tent, also known as a light box is a good one for starters. I no longer use one as I'm dealing with bigger lighting and trickier products.
The tent/box has benefits - Usually it's easy to reach in, reorient the product, and pop the camera back into position.
The V-Flat cone thingy will do the same job, but the access for the lens is pretty restrictive since you can only come in from "above".
5. How to hold the background - there are kits with a stand and rod to spool up some roll paper or white table cloth or a muslin drape - the less texture, the better.
Simple and cheap is best - eg some 2x4 pieces of wood work wonders, or even use foam-core or bristol board (big sheets of white or colored heavy card)
Spring clamps from the workbench or toolbox help, as do big binder clips for holding drapes and paper in place.
6. Macro lens for the camera - for small items, you'll probably want to get close.
7. Lots of depth-of-field - I often shoot at small apertures eg f/16, so I can keep the front and back edges of the product in focus
This means you need a LOT of light
8. Two lights, probably 3, maybe 4.
Two lights - To start, often you'll set them for equal brightness, and position them about 45 degrees to the left and right of the product, and elevate them above the product.
You might add a background light to help differentiate the background from the back edges of the product.
You might add a "halo" or "hair light" or snoot above to accentuate some part like a logo. This is tricky.
9. What to use for lights? (Going from cheap to better)
a) For small things, with a light box or that V-Flat Cone, you could start with desk lamps equipped with 5000K ("Daylight") bulbs. This is a cheap, easy, but not the most effective.
b) LED Video lights - often there are small light panels available that are intensely bright.
c) Flashes - many camera flashes come with a foot or mounting block that lets you put them off-camera. You may need a third unit or a remote trigger that mounts on the camera and sends a signal to the flashes to fire.
The Godox ones are decent and priced right. There are cheaper ones, but make sure they are compatible with your camera.
d) Mini Strobes - baby strobes like the Godox AD200 Pro are actually really amazingly good for the price.Generally these are at least twice as bright as an on-camera flash, may include a modelling light (continuous light) to help you position the light, and are designed for heavier use than an on-camera type flash. You'll need a light stand or maybe a tripod with a raisable centre post.
e) Studio Strobes - Something like the Godox AD400 or 600 units put out a ton of light and recharge quickly. You'll need light stands. Often found in the Used section of the local camera store.
These get in the way, but are like having sunshine you can control.
For c) there are various diffusers like the Godox Softbox you mention. You'll need at least 2 sets (Flash and softbox).
For d and e, there are umbrellas, dishes (parabolic metal reflectors), and softboxes. I use umbrellas and softboxes, and don't like dish light, but that's my taste (and my clients).
Does that help?
Good luck!
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Forum: Post Your Photos!
02-02-2024, 03:49 PM
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