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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
03-31-2024, 03:38 AM
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Never realised there was an A-version of the M 2.8/100! My fault.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
03-30-2024, 03:15 PM
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The K100 and A100 are completely different macro lenses. By no means comparable. The A100 is in a much higher league than the K100.
That video is showing how to reach the screws of the filter thread ring, but please take better care of you A100 when working on it!
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
01-12-2024, 04:05 AM
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As stated in an earlier reply, the second curtain is not fully closed in the picture. Replacing the mirror buffer foam will not resolve the problem. The second curtain fails to trip the mirror return. Only a CLA will cure this.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
12-29-2023, 03:17 PM
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Most probably your camera needs a CLA (Clean, Lube and Adjust). The SP is over 50 years old now, so lubes will be dry.
The mirror up is released by the second shutter curtain at the end of its travel. When the second durtain is slow it will not have enough impact to release the mirror.
This is also a sign that your short shutter times will be off, Have you noticed that in any pictures taken (at 1/500 or 1/1000)?
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Forum: Pentax Lens Articles
03-25-2023, 09:35 AM
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I reached the point where I have separated the front lens group. My goal is to reach the inner surface of the front element. Tried hard to turn the slotted retaining ring in the front of the lens as it seems to hold the glass. Not succesfull (yet). I'm wondering if I could reahc the inner surface of the front element in splitting the front lens groiup in two parts, i.e. does removing the back part of the front lens group reveal the surface of the front lens element?
If yess, any tips on unscrewing the halfs of the front lens group. Is there any glue on the threads? I tried acetone with no result. Any tips on getting a firm grip?
Thanks for responding!
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
09-19-2022, 05:05 AM
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Maybe the same issue, but a different cause. Your K1000 needs a CLA (clean, lubricate and adjust), especially the mirror box. There's lubricant/grease that has gone goey.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
08-19-2022, 05:51 AM
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No, I did not find a suitable replacement part. I guess with most professional CLA-jobs this rubber needs replacement. Just wondering where the professionals source this. Anybody can help?
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Forum: Repairs and Warranty Service
07-08-2022, 03:55 AM
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I just got the lens and noticed the focusing offset.I have no other Pentax lens that has this to such extend. I'm just curious toknow how such lens would be calibrated. Is it through software (altering numbers in the lens) or through hardware?
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Forum: Repairs and Warranty Service
07-07-2022, 01:58 PM
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I have a SMC Pentax-FA 1:1.7 50mm lens which shows a serious AF-error on several Pentax AF (including K1) camera bodies.When focused at infinity it focuses somewhere betwen 25-30 meters. Only when I set the focus adhustment in the camera at -10 the error is compensated.
I don't know what is causing the error, but more importantly: is there a way to re-calibrate the lens to get it focusing correctly?.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
01-08-2022, 02:49 PM
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When you have removed the tripod mount, you lift the rubber from the focusing ring to free three grub screws. When loosened the distance scale can be removed, revealing three cross headed screws. Removing these frees the DOF scale ring under which are three screws holding the rear lens tubus. Now you can reglue the baffle if needed and you have excellent access to the rear element to clean it.
Regards,
Wim
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Forum: Repairs and Warranty Service
01-06-2022, 03:37 PM
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I got a little further inside. When you remove the 'rubber' on the focusing ring, three grub screws do show up. Loosen these and remove the distance scale ring. That reveals three screws again. Remove these and remove the ring with the DOF scale. Again three screws to remove and that loosens the back end of the lens tubus. These screws are bomb fest with thread locker so heat first before turning.
I am still puzzled how the front end opens. I try to turn the front ring (not just the name ring), but it doesn't move yet. When I succeed, would that remove the full front lens group? Anyone can help?
Regards,
Wim
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
06-19-2021, 06:04 AM
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One detail that can easily be overseen: The helicoid retainers are different, one is with flat screw heads, the other with countersunk holes. Make note (or photo) which is where, otherwise the diafragm mechanism get stuck. Another thing is that, as long as you don't need to work on the aperture blades, I would advise to not completely remove the lens block, but only the front and rear lens group. Recalibration of the apeture mechanism by rotating hte lens block is not easy.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
06-16-2021, 11:58 AM
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I checked with the service manual. There is a switch near the film advance mechanism that switches from auto to manual. Wish me luck in getting in there and see if something is wrong there.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
06-16-2021, 12:55 AM
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Didn't test it with film, but long times sound correct.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
06-15-2021, 12:58 PM
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I bought it with this issue. It has very clean outside looks. Would be nice if it could be reapired.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
06-13-2021, 02:29 PM
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I have two ESII bodies with behaviour like that. 1 or 2 exposures are OK on automatic and then shutter speed is much to fast. Waiting for some minutes starts the behaviour over again. I tried to reason as to what may cause this and it might be a faulty switch contact connected to the 'film wound' flag. This switch goes on and off to charge/discharge the shutter timing capacitor. When the switch is faulty the automatic shutter timing gets erratic.
Anybody has experience in repairing this?
Regards,
Wim
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
06-13-2021, 02:12 PM
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If I turn the shutter speed dial off the automatic setting (to one of the manual speeds) camera stays in automatic mode. Any of you has encountered this and knows what causes this? And can tell how to remedy it?
Regards,
Wim
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
04-15-2021, 08:14 AM
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Great solution! Thanks! Both tabs were gone. Door closes again nicely. According to Wikipedia the length of an AA battery is 49.2 to 50.2 mm. When you carefully tap with a hammer on the top of the battery you can bring the total length to little over 49 mm. That will reduce the stress on the battery door tabs.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
01-25-2021, 05:42 AM
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On page 121 of the English language manual of the Sony A350 there are instruction to set the operating laguage. That doesn't work with your sample of the camera?
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
01-02-2021, 02:26 PM
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Sorry, this response is not understood by a native Dutch speaking Pentax lover!
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
12-29-2020, 02:39 AM
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The K1000 uses a simple SR44 or LR battery. The metering circuit is identical to the Spotmatic F, which is virtually battery voltage independent. I have to see the first SPF or K1000 (or KM) camera with a dead lightmeter caused by anything else than a broken wire.
Regards.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
12-26-2020, 02:52 PM
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Without a battery, the meter needle should be centered. With a battery and the ASA set to 200 plus shutter speed to 1/250 s, when you remove the lens and in a dimly lit room, the needle should point fully downward. If not, the meter does not work.
First guess must be that the battery connection is faulty. That could be the contact in the battery chamber, but the K1000s are known for a corroded solder connection under the battery chamber. You need to remove the bottom cover and then there are two screws holding the black plastic battery chamber. When loosened, you can inspect the soldered wire. If disconnected, you will have trouble resoldering while the soldering lip of the battery chamber seems to be stainless steel. Also the wire might be rotten over some length. If you succeed to make a new connection, everything will be fine.
Good luck!
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
12-20-2020, 11:57 AM
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I already have the service manual downloaded from Learncamerarepair. Going through it one can inderstand the complexity of an LX and why most technicians don't want (or are not capable?) to work on it!
I spent an afternoon and found out where the switch is. It is extremely hidden under the mirror box, but there is a way to test the function with only removing the bottom cover. Gonna try that.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
12-20-2020, 05:42 AM
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Thanks for the suggestions!
The position of the wind lever is irrelevant with the LX. Battery contacts are shiny and clean. So that's not causing the no power on condition. I suspect some mechanical switch connected to the shutter release button. Would like to study a wiring diagram, to find out where that switch is located.
Regards,
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
12-19-2020, 05:34 PM
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Hi,
Just got me a nice LX-body ("as-is"). Looks good and works mechanically. I did put in fresh batteries (in the right direction!), but the camera won't power up. Totally dead. I suspect a defective on/off switch. The camera should switch on (for 30 secs or so) when the shutter release button is halfway pushed. Anybody knows how to remedy this?
Is this operated with a mechanical switch? Anybody knows where to find a wiring diagram?
Regards,
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