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Forum: Pentax Medium Format 04-19-2022, 09:32 AM  
Pentax 645 90mm f/2.8 and 67 105mm f/2.4
Posted By Eyewanders
Replies: 21
Views: 4,464
I do not shoot Pentax digital in MF but in terms of performance and look, I've shot 67 glass on 645 (645Nii mostly) format for a good while, such that I don't own any native 645 glass for years now; I only adapt 67 lenses. That's mostly for consolidation of kit because I'm a 67 shooter first. But to that end, it's never felt like a compromise.

The 67 105 will obviously (as Sandy and Edmonds explain above) never realize it's full performance (the kind that led it to be "legendary") on 645 film or digital, but I use it fairly often and it works extremely well. A couple examples shown below. You can peruse the full album for this wedding if you like, which has a nearly 50/50 mix of coverage (in addition to B&W on 35mm at the beginning and end portions) done with both 645 and 6x7, all using the 67 glass.

Full album link is here: Wade & Becky's Wedding, July 23rd 2016 | Flickr
(note to avoid confusion: the images below and those at this wedding link above are in my two different Flickr accounts.)

The 105 is quite tight on 645 but works well for portrait indeed (2nd image below)... But in it's place I use the 67 90/2.8 far more often (on the 645nii), and in situations like this will pair it and the 45/4 on the 645, then the 105mm and 75mm on the 67 and/or 67ii. Makes for similar coverage and I generally move to 645 when the pace is quicker (for obvious reason). Incidentally, that 67 45/4 lnes is actually one of my favorites on 645 format, providing a look that is *somewhat* akin to the FA31 on Pentax 135 format ( shown in the last image with cinnamon rolls). All this to say, 67 glass works more than admirably on the 645 format, but the 105/24 used as such is not *really* the 105 everyone knows/loves.

Just thought I'd share all this for reference/perspective.


Wade & Becky by Kevin Rosinbum (Eyewanders Foto), on Flickr
Pentax 645Nii | 67 105/2.4 | Konica Centuria 400 Pro e.i. 200


All Wade, No Waiting by Kevin Rosinbum (Eyewanders Foto), on Flickr
Pentax 645Nii | 67 105/2.4 | Konica Centuria 400 Pro e.i. 200


(contrast the above with the 105/2.4 on 67, this outtake shot with the nearly-large-format look for which the 105 is loved, simply can't be realized on 645...)

Wade&BeckyWedding - July232016 - Photo-22.jpg by Kevin Rosinbum, on Flickr
Pentax 67 | SMC 67 105/2.4 | Konica Centuria 400 Pro e.i. 200

Hello Out There by Kevin Rosinbum (Eyewanders Foto), on Flickr
Pentax 67II | SMC Takumar 105/2.4 | Provia 400F (RHPIII) @400
(just another showing the striking separation it can get with full body framing - this was a self-timer self-shot test and was "scanned" with a Ricoh GRIII, but that's a different story/topic) :D


(and here are a couple examples of the 67 45/4 on 645 format...)

years of practice by Kevin Rosinbum (Eyewanders Foto), on Flickr
Pentax 645Nii | 45/4.0 | HP5 Plus +1


Passing Christmas Time by Kevin Rosinbum (Eyewanders Foto), on Flickr
Pentax 645Nii | 45/4.0 | HP5 Plus +1

Sorry for the blast of images, but I thought they could be helpful. Cheers all.
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 07-03-2014, 02:48 AM  
35mm Digital vs 6x7 film
Posted By itshimitis
Replies: 49
Views: 13,534
My word there are angular views on this!

Whether film is cheaper than digital or vice versa will depend on your workflow and how many shots/rolls of film you go through and whether you process them yourself. The moment you get other people to process them, then you need someone good who truly understands it and this can multiply cost. I have a few 6 x 7 and a 645N and I haven't shot film for a while, mainly because I have no one close by that does a good job in processing. I did have someone I was using but the film were regularly arriving back badly scratched. The best processing I found was in a small kodak store in Seoul which was a tenth of the price of here in the UK. There are specialist places in London who have drum scanners but they are very expensive.

As said film and digital are different formats and they have different looks. I love the colours of Reala 100 (RIP) it has a a certain something that isn't in digital. In a discussion I started on the Canon Rumors site many of the other users stated that you could replicate it easily in digital, but I don't really see the point. I am not a pixel peeper, I will check for reasonable sharpness and focus, but I go by the overall look of a shot.

As far as depreciation is concerned, I have to admit that I don't really take this in to account very much. I sold my 645D for £2100 last week in order to buy the 645Z. I paid £6k for it. I don't see that I have lost £3900. I got three years very good use out of it and took around 30,000 photos with it. How many are keepers? Couldn't say, but you don't keep every shot with film either. The 645D is not a sprayer in any shape or form. I paid £6,000, and effectively paid £3900 for those 30k shots. That is 13p a shot. That's 22 cents a shot.

Ok I have spent time going through them and processing, but you have a choice whether you spend your time doing the wet processing or you pay someone else to do it. To have the same level of control as in digital, would also take up time.

To the OP, why not rent some gear and test the water before you jump in? Perhaps there is a store that will rent out the gear and give credit in the event that you buy? Or if you have a friend who has good gear see about borrowing for a weekend. Only you can know whether you prefer the look of film over the convenience of digital or vice versa. There will be some trade offs and compromises on either side. Only you can tell how much you are happy to make in either direction.

To me it would be a waste to spend £5k+ and then decide that you don't like the look of digital.
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 07-03-2014, 02:21 AM  
35mm Digital vs 6x7 film
Posted By Silent Street
Replies: 49
Views: 13,534
Let's just say that using film requires commitment. If money is an object, analogue could well have you living off a boiled egg for a fortnight if you get heavy with it.

Of the two mediums, digital is cheapest, fastest and most convenient, even if it is awash with technology that is for the most part entirely superfluous to the creative image making process. Of course, there is no additional cost involved after the shot and you are at liberty to shoot as many of the scene as you want. But with film, you will require discipline and planning.

Film (and its foreseeable diminishment of variety in the future), as you know, will involve the processing (your own) and/or outside processing cost, scanning (whether it is for the web or for exhibition, which would require high level scanner-image post-op workflow) and then printing. I find film to be expensive in an holistic sense e.g. from exposure all the way to finished frame-up (BTW, all of my work is from modified exposure E6 e.g. Velvia 50 and has been for more than 20 years) butit is head and shoulders above digital in terms of the finished quality (from scanning). And this finished work has a very different look to it, especially the now common analogue-to-digital hybridisation print process.

But even with the devotion to film, I also own a Nikon P7700, which "could" be described as a sort of "35mm digital" (but it is not!). I don't even know, nor care, how many pixels it has: I bought it for its robustness. "Little Nik" is useful for proofing a scene that may have a doubtful quality about it. At other times, it is great to have something small and very capable to cart along in lieu of a big film camera. On a challenging remote area bushwalk last year from that camera I had a 1.2metre wallpaper print made off a tiff image file and it was very good indeed. I had mulled for weeks whether I would take the 13kg 6x7 kit. I decided at the last moment to leave the big 6x7 kit at home rather than drag it through such difficult terrain — thank the Lord for sensible thinking!! I would never have got of Green Chasm Gorge with all that stuff weighing me down...

Film photography will get more and more expensive as time goes on, as will chemicals used for B&W work. We are seeing price increases in film products more frequently which can be telling in that it suggests manufacturers are not all that happy to churn out a product of an increasingly smaller market. A couple of manufacturers have gone in the last few years (Efke... who else??)

Sharpness isn't everything in an image, but in certain defined instances of the craft, it can make or break the image. Then, remember that sharpness in digital cameras can be adjusted back and forth (e.g. on the RAW file). With film, specifically medium format, you have baseline sharpness inherent in the quality of the optics and the larger format size (note there is no significant cost-benefit difference from 6x7 to 4x5 in terms of sharpness).

Refined technique and experience will be the best guides as to which of the two mediums (digital / analogue) is best for you. Don't be sidetracked by floss and folly that is so much of the mainstream full frame and medium format camera scene — I cannot for the life of me believe how people are getting all sweaty and shaky for a $10,000 camera and only photographing scenes that could be done equally if not considerably better with a $20 disposable camera. How? All to do with how skills are applied to the making of an image and not pandering to technology.

---------- Post added 03-07-14 at 07:35 PM ----------




Actually E6 is very suitable for printing (always has been, even through the Kodachrome era), when you know how. This is something one needs to look at, critically, on an individual basis. As I said in my earlier post, film requires commitment. A medium format camera and a dozen rolls of film plus a notebook and repetition/refinement is an excellent way to learn.

I talk with too many people who have whinges and whines about E6. They have been bitterly disappointed, expecting a gift from the heavens with the first roll of Velvia (or E100VS, an atrocious film). Adopting a forensic "why is that so?" approach, I often discovered that problems lay in the lousy base exposure of transparency film (the number one repeating problem); next, the failure to understand specific scanning methodology involving the translation and profiling of transparency film (hence, learn it yourself over time or leave this to a pro-level lab) specific to the media the image will be printed to; that is to say, preparation of the scan/image is not the same for inkjet printing as it is for hybridised RA-4 (wet) printing and visualising how a print looks from your transparency. Typically, the print process loses between a third to half a stop, so exposure should be slightly over, rather than under (with transparency film, even slight over-exposure can introduce a whole new set of problems in the scene). The learning curve is quite steep. So who does best? People with a background in graphic arts/electronic or digital arts (my initial training decades ago was in typesetting and the "novel innovation" (in 1989) of desktop publishing) will handle these things much easier than somebody coming off the street with no experience of analogue, digital or even scanning. In that case, digital is probably the best option, but it's a personal decision.
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 01-11-2022, 05:17 AM  
Is there a Tutorial for setting up the 645Z
Posted By Ed Hurst
Replies: 11
Views: 1,908
One thing I remember setting up (and it wasn't easy to know how to) is a setting that has the effect of making autobracketing work by adjusting the shutter speed if you are in manual exposure mode. This suited my needs very well.

This thread explains how to do it. It really isn't intuitive but well worth it if you shoot as I do, wanting the aperture (and so the depth of field) to remain unchanged between shots, even when in manual mode.

Exposure Bracketing on 645Z - PentaxForums.com
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 03-04-2021, 08:11 PM  
Pentax-FA 645 400mm F5.6 ED [IF] Lens Use for Wildlife Photography
Posted By RICHARD L.
Replies: 32
Views: 3,491


Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 02-21-2021, 10:23 AM  
Best camera-lens combos for aerial photography
Posted By Lowell Goudge
Replies: 55
Views: 5,591
You need to look not just at the pixel size, between for example the A7 and A9.

My *istD is only 6 MP, but, my K5 blows it away in performance at high iso, and my K1MK2 blows away the K5 considering same pixel density,

The era of the sensor is just as important as the pixel density/size
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 02-21-2021, 08:45 AM  
Best camera-lens combos for aerial photography
Posted By UncleVanya
Replies: 55
Views: 5,591
My thoughts... and bear in mind I do not do this kind of photography.

The a7siii is mainly useful for video. It has lower high iso performance for stills photography than a basic a7iii (which has really good low light capability). The a7Siii video is made with considerably less cropping than the other models which is why they perform better at video but not stills. Even best case low iso dynamic range lags on the a7siii vs a plain a7iii. I own and shoot a Sony A7rII which is why I have looked into the topic deeply.

I haven’t ever shot the Fuji’s, but my impression from all kinds of cross system articles and comparisons is that ibis gets less effective the larger the sensor. Dual IS type systems are the most effective overall. This would lead me to look at one of the systems that offered this. The fact that the k-1 was only good to 6400 is interesting. Was this the Mark 1? If so the accelerator chip in the Mark 2 could stretch your results without major changes.

The question of out resolving a lens comes up a lot. It’s over hyped and less meaningful than it seems. Was the shot on the k-1 made with the fa77 as sharp as a similar shot made with the D FA 85? I’m guessing it wasn’t. But was it a good image? Lenses resolve better almost always on a higher resolution sensor than they do on a lower one. The gain is higher with optically better lenses. Unless you plan on cropping that 100mp image, you won’t see worse results than a lower mp sensor would give, you are possibly going to see less gain than the larger gear would warrant. It’s more important that the general characteristics of the lens work for the photo. So using a vintage lens with bad performance outside the central portion wouldn’t be a good choice for a highly detailed edge to edge landscape shot. Obviously a super sharp lens with similar edge to edge performance with let you resolve more detail than a softer one, but if you like the output of a given lens at lower resolution, don’t be scared to try it on a sensor that may out resolve it.

Looking at both DXO and photons to photos, there’s not a huge amount to gain over the k-1, and the DXOmark folks haven’t tested the k1 MK II. Rankings - DXOMARK. They also haven’t tested the Fuji, but I’d guess it’s sensor is better than all of the listed models, but how much better is unknown. The data on photons to photos ( https://www.photonstophotos.net/Charts/PDR_Shadow.htm ) suggests the GFX 100 isn’t any better at shadow recovery at the iso you are shooting than the k1 MK II. But that data is not as easy to interpret as I’d like. Also practical application of the 645z by real shooters suggests it is better than the data suggests at shadow recovery so the measuring method for larger sensor cameras may need work.

As for the various Sony’s, the a7iii seems like a good sweet spot for what you want to do. The FE 85 1.4 should give good results. But I would have expected a k1 MK II with the d fa 85 to excel also.

One last point, shutter which got much worse as sensor resolution increased. The cause appears to be resolution related. Moving into 100mp sensor resolution may make the vibrations impact the photos more even with good ibis. Ibis wasn’t designed to reduce the impact of this kind of vibration.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 11-11-2019, 06:06 AM  
Pentax 645 A* 600mm f/5.6 or 67 600mm f/4
Posted By Digitalis
Replies: 20
Views: 1,949
The lens with the higher number of elements has superior optical quality because with that number of elements in it the aberrations are corrected to a higher degree.




Incorrect, The lens with fewer elements will often have significantly worse control over aberrations than a better corrected lens with a higher number of elements. With telephoto lenses chromatic aberrations are a big hurdle to overcome. In the times of Issac Newton and the development of the telescope, optical aberrations were distinctly problematic with observational astronomy. These days we have many exotic glass types to correct for these aberrations in ways that would have impressed Newton greatly. Most of these glass types typically fall under the term ED glass.
Forum: Pentax Full Frame 07-31-2019, 12:28 PM  
K1 or Canon 5D Mark IV for a 645Z owner?
Posted By interested_observer
Replies: 77
Views: 7,916
Here is somewhat of a comparison...
















You Tube



















You Tube


















You Tube




:cool:
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 04-08-2019, 09:14 AM  
Harness, waist belt and accessories for Pentax 645Z
Posted By Kath
Replies: 8
Views: 1,553
Sounds like a fabulous trip! I use this setup for certain situations and add the hipbelt carrier for extra lenses. I often shoot from a small boat so need everything close at hand. The harness system is very stable and great for keeping one or two cameras safely close to your body when not in use. The twist lock is a quick draw, so no problems there.

http://https://www.cottoncarrier.com/products/g3-camera-harness-2

As to whether or not to carry or use extra lenses out of a bag, I would say that really will depend on how much room you’ll have available to you in the vehicle. With enough room, my preference would be a separate bag because having lens pouches hanging off your body while sitting can be physically limiting. If I couldn’t determine that ahead of time, I’d probably bring a bag and pouches and make the choice there.

Have a great time!
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 04-08-2019, 07:39 AM  
Harness, waist belt and accessories for Pentax 645Z
Posted By Buffy
Replies: 8
Views: 1,553
I have the Cotton Carrier chest and waist combo and put the 645z on my chest and the K-1 on my hip. It is effective at redistributing the weight, particularly the chest slot, but pulling a camera out for a shot quickly does require some practice. A camera switch, i.e. put one on the harness and pull the other off--is even harder so if speed is paramount I would guess there are probably better systems.

I should also note that I am not particularly busty but having boobs is a mild impediment for the chest harness. Men might have it easier.
Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories 04-06-2019, 02:08 PM  
Binoculars as part of wildlife photography kit
Posted By JimS_256
Replies: 30
Views: 3,986
First, you've asked for a suggestion of a specific make and model so here's mine: Nikon Trailblazer ATB Waterproof 8 x 25 (approx. $80). You can get the 10 power version which is exactly the same size and weight for $10 more (although, as other have said, I'd recommend the 8 power ones).

Why did I choose these over the 8 x 40 models? I have a pair of 8 x 40s, they're big and heavy and always left at home. Like you, I'm not really into birding I just want have binoculars with me when I'm out hiking or taking wildlife photos. These are small enough to always take and inexpensive enough that I don't stress about leaving them in the car between outings.

Why did I choose these over other similar, compact, models? Primarily because they had the widest field of view. It's more like looking out a window (with everything made bigger) than looking through two toilet paper tubes (with everything bigger). It's just more enjoyable. They are also good quality and a reasonable price so I was able to buy two pair. One for me and one for my wife. Everyone needs their own binoculars, no refocusing or adjusting between looks...

Probably the best advice I can give is to go to a store that has a good selection so you can hold them, look through them, see how they focus and overall how they work for you. What comfortable for me may not be for you.

Hope that helps.
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