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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
10-06-2018, 04:28 PM
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There are small parts which are easy to lose. you need to have good light and a clean and uncluttered work space. Also spread a pad or towel to prevent parts from rolling or bouncing away. I used a white towel. A head mount magnifying aid will also be good if you have one, a pair of readers will also work. Parts on a mount all have to fit the camera so are very interchangeable between lens. I bought a DA* 60-250 f4 for parts only, used a pair of doner lens and bought an aftermarket foot and a pentax hood. Total cost $365.00 for a DA* 60-250. All working except auto focus thru the OVF, works fine thru Live View. Good luck and have fun trying.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
10-06-2018, 04:59 PM
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Screw drivers MAY be a problem. Many lenses use JIS screws, not Philips. They look similar but are not. It is quite easy to ruin a JIS screw with a Philips driver.
My kit includes:
- parts box
- several types of tweasers
- several magnifiers
- spanner
- JIS screwdrivers
- needle nose pliers
- magnetic pickup
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Forum: Repairs and Warranty Service
04-17-2018, 04:29 PM
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I assume you're talking about something like the iFixIt kit of screwdrivers... Either way, depending on the lenses you're looking to service, it's worth having a range of small sized flat-head, Phillips and JIS (Japenese standard) cross-head screwdrivers to cover your requirements (don't use Phillips screwdrivers with Japanese lenses as a general rule - you need to use JIS screwdrivers for most of those).
Other tools? It depends on how well-prepared you want to be and how much of an appetite you have for (1) innovating with what you have lying around, and (2) making costly mistakes that you'll wish you hadn't :p
My own lens servicing tools include the following:
- range of screwdrivers (as detailed above)
- good worklight (something you can position and direct towards you working area)
- lens wrench (for removing lens element retaining rings - you can also use some calipers for this)
- sucker tool for removing lens elements
- rubber lens ring removal tools in various sizes (and some non-slip rubber material that you can cut to shape)
- tweezers (I have two sets - flat ended, and pointed / angled)
- bulb dust blower
- magnifying glass or eyepiece
- lens cleaning papers
- lens cleaning fluid
- wet lens wipes
- focusing helicoid lubricant (I use Helimax XP now, but white lithium zinc oxide marine grease is a good substitute - if a little heavy)
- isopropyl alcohol
- washing-up liquid
- white vinegar
- cold cream (yes, really)
- some plastic trays or tubs to hold components that you remove - set screws, springs etc.
I'm sure I've forgotten a few things, but that's a pretty good list. You'll probably end up adding to it over time, but this is a pretty good setup for most situations :)
I would really recommend starting with the simplest possible lens. My interest is primarily vintage Soviet lenses, and a great model to begin with is an M42-mount Industar-50-2. It doesn't get any simpler, really, and all the learned skills are transferrable. Or, you could pick any of the Helios-44x models (44-2, 44M, 44M-3/4/5/6/7). Alternatively, some of the Carl Zeiss Jena M42 primes are also good starting points. There are plenty of others... Just pick simple manual-focus primes, ideally manual or preset aperture, but auto-aperture models are fine too.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
10-06-2018, 05:20 PM
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I listed my own lens servicing tools in a post some time ago, HERE.
I believe that's still a fairly accurate list, although I add to it and swap things out from time to time...
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Forum: Post Your Photos!
09-03-2018, 04:07 PM
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Tripled my integration on the Deneb area. Now 100 x 120s, ISO 800, Samyang 135 f/2 a f/2.5, Pentax K1, iOptron ZEQ25 and MGEN II for guiding.
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
08-26-2018, 03:12 PM
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Until you decide what to do, here is a slightly different approach. You can stack any number of images, which would combine all the captured light together. Just aim the camera to the sky and take multiple images. It would be better to have the mirror up and just put the body in burst mode. I would probably go with 10 second exposures to keep the star trails at a minimum.Then use a program like sequator (free download), to align the images together and then stack them.
:cool:
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