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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
10-21-2022, 09:21 AM
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Hello,
On today's episode, another K1000 makes a frantic call for help.
A coworker of a fellow photographer friend told him he had a K1000 from his university days but it was probably too far gone. No need to continue the story as you know what happens next.
In a phone conversation with the owner, he told me he took a photography class in college back in the 80's and bought this camera for that course. It accompanied him for a long time before slowly sliding into dis-use, but it now has great sentimental value.
So I got this: Humidity and time are relentless.
Not only looks bad, it is totally jammed and seized. Never seen a mirror that seized!
The camera came with 2 Sears lenses. A 50mm f2 and 135mm f2.8
The mirror was so seized that once I got it to get down it refused to go up again
It went into ICU
Over an hour of intense work on the top cover showed some promise.
It eventually raised from the ashes!
The mirror was stuck because it was ashamed of the viewfinder :)
Those 2 springs disguised as prism hold downs are really patience draining devices!
The lenses were also serviced. They were both very dirty and had some fungus.
The 50mm
The 135mm
Despite been a cheap lens even in its day, the 50mm came out nice.
It was tested in a DSLR. Not bad!
The 135mm on the other hand had front element damage. It was cleaned and polished the best I could.
The back element came out better than the front.
As suspected, contrast is a challenge. But still usable.
Anyways, after long days in surgery and recovery, I present this for your approval.
Important to note: Not a single part was replaced. Every single part and screw were restored and reused.
The patina says High Mileage and begging for work!
Yeah, yeah, but does it work?
Youtu.be
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src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vOCjanFPcAQ?controls=1" allowfullscreen>
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I hope you approve.
Thanks,
Ismael
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
09-12-2022, 07:58 AM
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
09-12-2022, 07:23 AM
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Yeah - let us know where you are. If you're in your RV, you've got some mobility to come meet one of us. If you are in northern Arizona, let me know. Or, many of us may an extra charger that we'd be glad to send you for a short-term loan.
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
09-12-2022, 04:42 PM
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I believe you can also pickup items purchased online from Walmart in one of their store locations, although I haven't done it myself. That might be another way of getting a third-party charger.
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
09-12-2022, 04:30 PM
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Let us know your approximate whereabouts and destinations, someone can help. But Brad's suggestion of Amazon lockers is very good. They have a lot of locations that are findable with GPS on your phone.
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
09-12-2022, 07:20 AM
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Amazon lockers are a supported method for people on the move. Pick a location ahead a few days and see where an Amazon locker location is.
Find an Amazon Hub Locker - Amazon Customer Service
Alternatively the Walmart company has an online system where items can be sent to a store and they likely have a charger that works. You can get one delivered near a destination and go pick it up. Finally be aware that the Walmart corp in the past has permitted rv overnight parking so you have that option if you need it - just verify it before assuming it works.
FREE RV Parking Overnight At Walmart in 2021 (Rules & Safety) |
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
09-12-2022, 06:56 AM
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I've just tried it on mine K-1II grip-without factory battery in body whatsoever only with AA's in grip basket, and it works just fine. But the tricky part with grip is, you have to put it exact aligned in spot to get it working properly- there should be almost no tension when you wind this screw to attach it- I once had the same issue and that was due forcing it to attaching in place. Maybe that will help. Btw check if the AA batteries are inserted in correct polarity.
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
09-12-2022, 05:49 AM
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I don’t have the k-1, but on my KP or k-3 it doesn’t matter which setting is selected, The camera will automatically switch to the charged battery once the other has run out. You might try removing the battery from the body, The grips work in my bodies even without any battery installed. Perhaps with the battery fully depleted it’s confused the switching logic somehow.
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
09-12-2022, 05:51 AM
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Sorry, I don't have a K-1, so I'm afraid I can't offer a definitive solution.
The Operating Manual, page 34, indicates that the "type of AA batteries to be used" may be selected in the Setup Menu 4 (Wrench/Spanner-4), Select Battery.
I don't know which type of AA battery is the default, so you may need to try several types -- alkaline, NiMH, lithium, etc.
- Craig
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
09-12-2022, 05:54 AM
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Forum: Lens Clubs
05-18-2022, 11:40 AM
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Forum: Post Your Photos!
04-21-2022, 09:37 PM
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Night photo showing the movement of the stars in this long exposure photo. As a small child, one of the first words I liked to say was "choo choo train". I loved trains so much as a four year old, my grandmother used to take me to the rail yard in Skokie, Illinois to watch the trains come in. Although I really don't know very much about trains, I still love them, and having the opportunity to photograph them at night feels so special to me. This is a view of the night stars streaking over a 1920s Rio Grande dinner car which had an air conditioning unit with an ice system. Built by American Car and Foundry for The Denver and Rio Grande Western Railroad in 1927, the "Castle Peak" was one of four cars built concurrently, named for famous "Peaks" along the route of the D&RGW. This car was used until the late 1960s, and has been resting under the stars of the Mojave for decades. Back in the distance is a Union Pacific railcar. I lit the dinner car with warm white light from a handheld ProtoMachines LED2 light painting device during the exposure, while the light of the car in the distance was already on. Also, I know that some of you know where this is, but I was asked not to reveal the location because they don't want too much publicity. Thanks for your respect and kindness. This photo is in my second book of night photography and history.
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(1822) Pentax K-1/15-30mm f/2.8 lens. 9 minutes total "stacked"; each photo 3 minutes f/8 ISO 200. March 2020.
---------- Post added 04-21-22 at 09:40 PM ----------
...two for one. Just for fun. :D
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Forum: Post Your Photos!
03-07-2022, 09:37 AM
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Immovable
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A night photo, as you might guess. This truck must be an unbelievable force of nature. And back in the 1920s or whenever this was built, it must have been particularly imposing, a sort of monstrous Mad Max/Burning Man contraption that was bigger than life. I snuck in a quick visit just before Thanksgiving Day, photographing for two nights in a row in the California desert near the Mexican border. And I managed to stay awake for Thanksgiving dinner the following evening. Although warm and sunny during the day, by the time I packed up, it was below freezing and I had ice on my windshield. I illuminated the scene with a handheld ProtoMachines LED2 light painting device during the exposure. Thanks for looking.
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This truck has "Dalton Truck Co Crane Division" scrawled on the back. I believe this is a Mack AC truck that was designed to tow a Universal Truck Crane. Mack AC Series trucks were made from 1916-1939.
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IG, FB, Flickr, website: kenleephotography; Twitter: kenleephotos
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(Plate 3058) Pentax K-1/15-30mm f/2.8 lens. 30 minutes total "stacked". Each photo 3 minutes f/8 ISO 200. November 2020.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
02-16-2022, 05:16 PM
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I think most lenses are priced appropriately. If it's especially good, rare, or special in some way the value will reflect it. There are some really good bargains as well, like the M75-150 f4 or the Takumar Bayonet 135mm f2.5.
The best deal I ever got was a smashed FA* 85 f1.4 for 200 usd.
 Cracked FA* 85 1.4 by Brian Mckee, on Flickr
 Great blue birb by Brian Mckee, on Flickr
 The Camino by Brian Mckee, on Flickr
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Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands
02-02-2022, 11:10 PM
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D800 and the 200-400
D800 with the 70-200 and reverse mounted 50 1.8 and 1.4 tc
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
01-11-2022, 03:18 PM
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I recently did that for scans I did for a 50 years canoeing commemorative book. I found running the image twice produced better results than completely cranking it in one go.
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Forum: Lens Clubs
12-06-2021, 12:44 PM
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 IMGP2328 by JF Steyn, on Flickr
A brown hyena and cub on a windy day on the Skeleton Coast in Namibia. These are very reclusive animals seldom seen in daylight. The atmospherics and wind made it difficult to get it sharp with 300MM DA* and 1.4 TC,. but it does show the bleak landscape where they survive
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
11-28-2021, 07:25 AM
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I like how the wood frames the lemur's face, and how it peers around the board adds a little playfulness to the image. To me, there are a couple elements competing with the cute face peeking between the boards: one is the leaf at the top, and the other is the knot to the left. I feel removing those items would keep the attention on the little furry face. Maybe a 4x5 crop, starting from the bottom right corner, would get it. But that's just my opinion:).
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
11-26-2021, 02:48 PM
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The bad bokeh seems to be a mottled leaf. The lemur's fur down below its face gives a better idea of bokeh rendition by the lens.
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Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom
10-07-2021, 03:14 PM
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A very rude Pentax Forum member made a demand that I post a 'pixel peeping' shot which I did. And it may be somewhat useful here now. How well your negative carrier holds the negative flat is a significant factor with a sharp scan too especially with thin film base and curly film.
RPX 25 at 2400dpi.
RPX 25
Repeated Listening @ 33 1/3 RPM by tuco, on Flickr
RPX 25 Crop by tuco, on Flickr
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Forum: Pentax K-3 III
09-01-2021, 05:45 PM
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Forum: Pentax K-3 III
09-01-2021, 05:34 PM
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another of the " Big Boy " from the same vantage point but the train has obviously gotten closer
the staircase on the right leads down onto the AMTRAC loading platform at Kansas City, Mo. Union Station and you can see the two sets of tracks used by AMTRAC
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
08-22-2021, 09:46 AM
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I like the 2nd one.
The BW doesn't look like a natural rendering and I think any CMOS could do the same because it looks like it was made by tweaking/saturating the blue channel. I shoot a LOT of BW film. And I never get a sky going from black to light like that with any filter. A red filter can make a sky black sky but not like that.
This BW film was shot with an orange filter which can darken blue a lot but not as much as red. Note the horizon.
Tall Mast by tuco, on Flickr
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
08-22-2021, 01:17 AM
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Over the past six months or so I've been putting a crazy amount of effort into getting results from the CMOS K-S1 that can match my broken GX-10/K10D (*). The conclusion I've come to is that I can get the colour rendering darn close, but no matter how close I get the colours there's still something missing.
What's missing is the sense of luminosity that you get from a good CCD -- that sense of light being actual light playing across a surface, and shadows being actual pools of darkness. Now some people might argue that that's just a side effect of the lower dynamic range of the old CCDs, but I think it's more than that. Believe me, I've played with tone curves in every which way I can think of to try to reproduce the effect and I just can't.
I think it's an intrinsic quality of the non-linearity of the analog signal coming off the CCD sensor -- something that's there before the signal hits the ADC and becomes a digital file -- and therefore something that's difficult to simulate in the digital domain. If my layman's understanding is right (and it might not be), it seems that non-linearity in the analog signal coming off a CCD sensor as the pixels get close to saturation is the cause of the more "luminous" CCD look. The upper midtones really are rendered in a totally different way than they are with the much more linear CMOS sensors. CCD sensors have a gentler and more subtle roll-off through zones VII to IX (in zone system terms) than CMOS does, and I'm now pretty much convinced that this is the biggest difference between the two technologies.
(*) Yes, I know I could have just bought another ten megapickler, but I've learnt a lot by banging my head against a CMOS sensor for the past few months, and when I return to using a CCD as my main camera it will be with an even clearer understanding of why I'm sticking with such "obsolete" technology.:)
Edit: I thought I'd add some snaps to hopefully illustrate what I mean by the effect of light and shadow that CCD does better than CMOS. These are all GX-10 shots that haven't been here on PF since I closed my Flickr account.
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Forum: Lens Clubs
06-30-2021, 06:11 AM
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A mare and foal under a looming sky.
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