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Forum: Vintage Cameras and Equipment 07-06-2023, 08:06 PM

I want to shoot some Polaroid
Posted By tonyzoc

Replies: 4
Views: 411

Yeah, I've got a SX-70 model 1 and a model 2. I also have an SX-70 one-step. The one steps are cheap...$20. I would start there if I were you. The new polaroid film isn't great and not even close to what polaroid produced back in the day. The film is 8 shots for $20 a pack. Color is pretty poor, B&W is a bit better. Any old film for sale is dried out and garbage. I did have a model 2 that I converted myself (using a resistor soldered into the metering circuitry) and I was able to get good 600 film when I was going to china allot (2000-2003). I'm pretty sure what the new polaroid company sells for 600 is just as bad as SX-70 film. Get a cheap model and a pack of film and give it a try.

I do love the original SX-70s though. Too bad the film isn't better.

Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 06-14-2023, 12:36 AM

X2T-P received: first tests and first disappointment
Posted By morenjavi

Replies: 38
Views: 7,917

You are welcome. I have re-read my own review of X2TP. The problem I had was with remote on/off on older flashes, like the AD360 mkI, but as for remote triggering or HSS, that did work fine.
Godox doesn't seem to care much about compatibility with older flashes, they never fixed this problem.
That was one of the reasons why I ended up selling my old flashes (the 433 MHz ones), and stayed only with 'modern' equipment, i.e. 2.4 GHz flashes.
Apart from the problem with switching on and off from the trigger, the AD360 is a very good flash, has enormous power for the price, and is relatively portable.
To sum it up:
- can you trigger your AD360 using your X2TP? Yes
- can you trigger your AD360 in HSS mode? Yes, you must enable these options manually on your trigger and flash.
- can you turn your AD360 on and off remotely from your X2TP ? No, this is what doesn't work, you will have to do it manually.

Regards.

Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 03-17-2022, 02:22 PM

X2T pass through shoe
Posted By inkista

Replies: 5
Views: 1,470

I haven't done it (I use XPros), but stacking a manual trigger should work. Given that the hotshoe on top of an X2T-P is single-contact, TTL triggers won't be able to have full communication.

Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 05-21-2021, 05:44 AM

My Godox TT600 Quad Flash
Posted By bdery

Replies: 8
Views: 1,098

Good work!

You could look at Godox's AD100Pro, it's not too expensive, and quite powerful, but this is cool!

Godox AD100Pro: a Tiny And Powerful Off-Camera Flash - Light And Matter

Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 05-20-2021, 02:36 PM

My Godox TT600 Quad Flash
Posted By Wingincamera

Replies: 8
Views: 1,098

Love it. Thank you for sharing.

Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 05-19-2021, 06:28 PM

My Godox TT600 Quad Flash
Posted By stevebrot

Replies: 8
Views: 1,098

That is pretty amazing...and a clever piece of work too. :)

Steve

Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 05-19-2021, 07:32 PM

My Godox TT600 Quad Flash
Posted By Aaron28

Replies: 8
Views: 1,098

brilliant!

Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 05-20-2021, 05:17 AM

My Godox TT600 Quad Flash
Posted By ProfessorBuzz

Replies: 8
Views: 1,098

I have a Westcott Triple-Threat speedlite bracket that holds 3 flashes - but yours is a masterpiece! Nicely done and thanks for sharing.

Forum: Post Your Photos! 10-20-2020, 06:48 AM

Landscape The Road To Elgol
Posted By Sunburn

Replies: 24
Views: 1,502

So, I managed to get out twice into the woods this weekend hoping to capture some autumnal images with the trees changing colours and perhaps do a [link=https://youtu.be/RLUcrYlGKnk]small video[/link] about the image taking process and what nots.

Well, the thing is if you have been out of practise for a while it soon becomes apparent when you try to pick up where you left off. I spent most of the weekend stumbling around in my wellies, slipping in the mud, and not really remembering how to use my camera!

So unfortunately I haven't really got anything to show for my efforts, so back to the archives for an image taken on the [link=https://youtu.be/Hd0wX9IGPvM]Isle of Skye[/link] on the road to Elgol

Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 07-26-2020, 10:56 AM

M42 Stuck with flange removed
Posted By Not a Number

Replies: 17
Views: 1,464

The adapter is no longer listed on Fotodiox's site but there may be new old stock out there for sale.

There is a reason for the red dot on the adapter.

The OEM adapter can be put in 180° off. The spring normally prevents this but if it is removed or you press the spring in the adapter can be inserted.

Simple: just line up the notch to the red dot as pictured below, hook a finger nail in the other cut-out, pinch and lift it out starting at the side you are holding. Do not lift straight out. Tilt it out.

Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 06-07-2020, 06:24 AM

Portability vs Power (Battery Powered Strobe)
Posted By rtmarwitz

Replies: 14
Views: 1,733

I'll just share my progression through on-location flash photography.

I started out cheap -- 3 Yongnuo 560IVs and a 560-TX(for Nikon) and the cheapest light stands I could find. I eventually got 3 more 560IVs and another 560-TX. The reason for the two transmitters...I would frequently use two body lens outfits with the flash controllers at events where one was set up to use for formal portraits and the other was used for candid shots during the event with the four flashes set up around the room. I also have amazon high capacity rechargeables and battery packs which give me more flash pops than I've ever needed.

I used the yongnuos for a couple of years before deciding I wanted to take advantage of HSS for those daylight hour portraits where you want to open up the lens. I ended up with flashpoint(godox) AD600s manual version plush the Pentax controller. While they are heavy I never regret having them with me for portraits. They are great for both power and consistency.

I still use the yongnuo's today -- as recently as this past weekend. The great thing about them is that mishaps are more affordable. During a portrait session, one fell over into the water. I haven't replaced it yet, but don't feel the loss since it was only $60 and I've got more than $60 use from it.

I have the AD200's on my list for a lighter kit to take with my well off the beaten path. Lenses are on my list before getting the flashes though. :)

The below was done with three yongnuo's ganged up behind an umbrella. So you can compensate for the light even with these cheap flashes. This works here because my subject is much smaller than what you mention as your subjects. If you are talking about lighting up and overcoming daylight with subjects the size of tractors, vehicles, etc, you'll probably want to lean to something with more power. I'm definitely no expert at this as I still learn something each time I go into the field. I think though, the bigger struggle for you may be with your subject size. Lighting something like a car during bright daylight hours and what distance the flashes will need to be from the subject to keep them out of frame. I've never tried it, so I can't really say much about that, but the framing and flash distance are the first things that come to mind when going through the setup.

Sorry, I got a little long-winded, but I hope it helps.

myFlickr

Forum: Mini-Challenges, Games, and Photo Stories 03-29-2019, 06:43 PM

Thematic Low Key photography
Posted By paulh

Replies: 177
Views: 15,353

I'm being watched.... by Paul Hensley, on Flickr

Forum: Mini-Challenges, Games, and Photo Stories 03-28-2019, 10:30 PM

Thematic Low Key photography
Posted By Oktyabr

Replies: 177
Views: 15,353

I was astounded to discover (apparently) that there is no "low key" thread on these forums! Yes, low key often ends up black and white but it *doesn't have to be*. More often than not, low key involves one (or more) OCF ("Off Camera Flash") light source but natural light works too and even on-camera flash can do the trick. What is "low key"? "Usually one main light, or ‘key’ light, falls on your subject and the background fades to black. It’s all about the highlights and shadows and how they define the shapes in your composition." (taken from this intro article). Want to learn Manual mode? This will get you there! ;)

Here are a few examples I've taken myself, mostly in a room FULL of mid day, sunny spring time, ambient light! It's a great way to keep ISO low (for best IQ), and still end up with something contrasty and dramatic.

Shot with K3 ii + 18-135 WR, handheld (ISO 100, 1/160th, f11 or so) and a single Yongnuo YN585EX on my only tripod, fired with a cheap FM trigger pair I bought off of amazon:

0KTY5546 by oktyabr, on Flickr

0KTY5499 by oktyabr, on Flickr

0KTY5461 by oktyabr, on Flickr

This was probably the most challenging of this set. My dining room table, awash in mid-day sunlight, and a lit, black, oil lamp.

0KTY5534 by oktyabr, on Flickr

---------- Post added 03-28-19 at 10:34 PM ----------

One of my "local super model" shot with natural light (no flash), in a brightly lit room. ("Spot" metering is your friend!)

K-70 + Sigma 30mm f1.4:

IMGP2971 by oktyabr, on Flickr

One of my work boots, bouncing a flash (on camera) off the closest wall. K3 ii + 18-135 WR (some heavy PP in Darktable):

0KTY5413 by oktyabr, on Flickr

Forum: Post Your Photos! 01-10-2020, 05:04 AM

Landscape Abandoned settlements and mines.
Posted By gump

Replies: 96
Views: 7,379

This is a shot near Creede, Colorado. Many mines are accessible when driving the Batchelor Loop. (Vehicle must have good ground clearance.) The road in the photo shows a good portion.

Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 01-12-2020, 10:59 PM

Sekonic L478D have I got it right?
Posted By Class A

Replies: 12
Views: 2,085

The calibration steps are not necessary.

They would be useful if you wanted to know by using the light meter only whether your camera's dynamic range could manage certain light levels.

Arguably, a calibration would also improve the absolute accuracy of a reading with respect to a camera's exposure characteristics, but since "correct exposure" is a technical term and will rarely coincide with artistic intentions, such absolute accuracy is much more relevant to scientifically correct exposures than it is to real (as in "regular") photography.

I use my L-478D with a K-1 without any calibration and it is working just fine (as expected).

Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 01-11-2020, 01:20 PM

Sekonic L478D have I got it right?
Posted By morenjavi

Replies: 12
Views: 2,085

Hello Mike.

I have the Sekonik L-358, that is the previous generation, so I don't know if what I'm going to tell you will help you or not.
I have the option to calibrate my photometer, if needed. I've using my photometer during years so I have a bit of experience, but it doesn't mean that I am any expert.

The calibration of my photometer is way simpler compared to the DTS system. I just can set a kind of exposure compensation. At present I have my photometer set at -0.3EV, so this value have to fit all the cameras I have.
But why do you need to calibrate a photometer? As I understand, a photometer is factory calibrated. The problem is that your camera sure is not telling all the truth when you set the ISO. As far as I know, the K3-II's ISO is around 0.3EV below real ISO, but really not sure 100%. This is why my photometer is set to -0.3EV, to match my camera real ISO. I don't know in deep the DTS, but I think this is a kind of profile to make adjustements on your photometer's measures to match your camera.
As an example, let's suppose I have my K3-II and I make a measure with my photometer at ISO 100, let's suppose I get 1/100 & f4.0 on my photometer. But, as my camera ISO is fake, when I set ISO 100 on my camera, the real sensor ISO is 80, so I should set my camera at 1/100 & f3.5 instead of 1/100 and f4.0.
But this is more complicated than that, maybe my camera's ISO 200 is accurate, ISO 400 is not, etc. So this is what I understand DTS profiles correct. Every camera have some inaccuracies regarding ISO, that are fixed with a profile, but I think they should be small.
In my case, I don't have profiles, just a global adjustment. By experience I have found that setting -0.3EV adjustment on my photometer gives me accurate exposures, notice that this is not a really huge deviation.

How do I do such adjustments/calibration ? I have a SpyderCube, that I found very useful to get correct WB but also to get medium tones, shadow, highlights, etc. So I prepare a lighting, take a measure and take a pic of my spidercube, and see if the grey part of the spider cube is about in the half of the histogram, just that.

Notice that also your lens is not telling you the truth, photo lenses lose a bit of light. A 2.8 lens can be actually f3.2 or so. I think only cinema lenses gives you the real f. In my case, I have a K5 + DA 50-135 and K3-II + sigma 17-50 combinations. If I get a picture at the same ISO, speed and F settings, pictures are slightly differents in exposure/tone. Also, you shoud consider your RAW converter, that can be using a curse when it sets the tone of your picture.

Can I use the photometer without any calibration? I think you can, sure you get a small deviation, but this deviation will be always constant, that is, you'll notice always a bit of underexposure or overexposure. If it's the case, then you can think about calibrating it... or just forget about it and correct it in post. I made a calibration maybe once a year or once every two years, just to be sure everything is OK.

Maybe some other users can share it's experience with photometer's use and calibration.

Regards.

---------- Post added 11-01-20 at 09:26 PM ----------

I learned a lot with this guy about measuring with photometers, mixing ambient and flash light, etc.
He also looks like a nice person.

Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories 12-10-2019, 02:25 PM

Christmas gift ideas?
Posted By AggieDad

Replies: 36
Views: 3,547

I have always found that buying something for a hobbyist is fraught with danger unless you know exactly what they want. Nothing is a bigger bomb than giving a hobbyist (although they probably would smile and say thank you) something that is only sorta, kinda like what they wanted.

On the other hand, whatever you are asking for, make sure it is clearly circled (in red) in the B&H catalog or you have emailed the precise item link to the prospective giver (spouse). Of course, this has its own danger in that the giver (spouse) learns just how much you pay for this stuff. :)

May your stocking be filled with goodies and your Christmas be grand.

Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 12-02-2019, 04:36 AM

K1 Mode Dial Failure
Posted By redpit

Replies: 262
Views: 49,302

Mike I can't remember all the S/N that were affected but I remember that they were all from the same 1-2 batches. If you look further in other pages you will see what I mean.

Anyway I don't feel this is something you should worry about. Even if your K-1 is from that batch the repair is simple and fast. I would turn from time to time the knobs and they would show Av (or maybe Tv) on the other settings not only M....

Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories 12-02-2019, 03:40 AM

Tripod for astroguide
Posted By frey71

Replies: 15
Views: 1,241

Its my first experience after Photoshop

Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 11-26-2019, 06:20 PM

Now that the new APS-C flagship is coming, anyone have thoughts for K-1 I replacement
Posted By VSTAR

Replies: 39
Views: 3,363

Hopefully not where we are going.

Nikon D850 body $3700 DN ...and that is after a $600 discount
Pentax K1-ii body $2499 and no discount

Value for money...K1 IMHO

Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories 11-21-2019, 04:30 PM

iFootage Tripods
Posted By carlb

Replies: 23
Views: 1,482

And they all have that same horrible winding layout that forces you through every f'ing square metre of the store and drains you of the will to live. I loathe Ikea (but you probably guessed that)

Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands 01-16-2019, 04:17 PM

Mamiya 23 with Polaroid Back
Posted By BigDave

Replies: 6
Views: 1,055

I would say yes, see this...

Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 12-01-2018, 01:19 PM

Deciding to buy a Pentax K1
Posted By kiwi_jono

Replies: 17
Views: 4,940

Sounds like the K-1 is a good fit for you (as it is for me)!
I'm certainly loving mine and no regrets. My list of perceived features were similar to yours and while they are real, the top things I now really like about the K-1:
* Fantastic sensor gives me more capability to crop (resolution) and correct images PP (great dynamic range).
* Great ergonomics - camera fits my hand like glove (once you get used to the positions of the controls). Makes it a pleasure to use.
* Relative to other brands - Pentax hyper program mode is great. For walk around photography love being able jump between program, fixed aperture, fixed shutter speed - all without changing the mode dial (or even taking your eye of the subject).
* GPS. Surprise to me was how useful it is to have coordinates where the image was shot. I now mostly leave my GPS on.
* Legendary backward lens compatibility. I'm still enjoying the occasional use of my older Pentax glass. I have 40 year old lenses that still have qualities I like the look of. And SR works with them too!

The features I thought I would use but rarely do:
* Anti-aliasing. So far I have not used it.
* Crop mode. I now just leave it in FF and crop later as needed (often "crop lenses" cover more than crop frame anyway).
* Pixel shift. Yes I like having the capability but in my use (landscapes) I rarely use it (as the scenes are rarely static enough).

Only thing I miss (a little bit) is not having a built in flash. Although built in flashes are not very good anyway, they can be useful for the occasional bit of fill flash. I have a separate flash but usually don't cart it around everywhere.
Also camera weight is a bit of double edged sword. It does make my kit heavier to carry around but on the other hand I find it helps steady and balance the camera - especially with bigger lenses.

Enjoy!

Forum: Photographic Industry and Professionals 12-23-2018, 03:43 PM

NY Times Best Photos of 2018
Posted By nosliwmit

Replies: 3
Views: 1,075

The New York Times published the other day an article showcasing their news photos from 2018. It's fabulous stuff. I find myself particularly impressed by the impeccable white balance of all the photos. I guess that means I'm truly becoming a photography geek. There's also a good handful of relatively dark, moody photos.

The Year in Pictures 2018 - The New York Times

Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II 12-19-2018, 11:05 AM

Your K1 User Settings...
Posted By biz-engineer

Replies: 16
Views: 4,790

U1: Landscape (AWB, AE matrix, Av, AF.S center point, Extended DR enabled, SR enabled (off tripod), LV ES enabled, f/11, Image format RAW, Drive mode single shot 3s delay remote IR)
U2: Portrait (AWB, AE center weighted, Av, AF.S select L, Extended DR off, Skin correction enabled, SR enabled (off tripod), LV ES disabled, f/4, Image format RAW, Drive mode single shot with shutter button)
U3: Wildlife S (AWB, AE center weighted, TAv, AF.C select S, Extended DR off, SR disabled, LV ES disabled, f5.6 + 1/500th, Image format JPEG L, Drive mode burst H with shutter button)
U4: Wildlife M (AWB, AE center weighted, TAv, AF.C select M, Extended DR off, SR disabled, LV ES disabled, f5.6 + 1/500th, Image format JPEG L, Drive mode burst H with shutter button)
U5: Wildlife L (AWB, AE center weighted, TAv, AF.C select L, Extended DR off, SR disabled, LV ES disabled, f5.6 + 1/500th, Image format JPEG L, Drive mode burst H with shutter button)

INFO tiles: all functions that have an impact of exposure but that can't be changed via a hardware button or smart dial. This allows quicker access to shooting condition that couldn't be changed by post processing of RAW files.

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