Search Results - PentaxForums.com

The Latest

Forum

Cameras

Page 1 of 2

⟶

Showing results 1 to 25 of 45 Search:

Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 12-27-2023, 12:57 PM

Metz Mecablitz 44 AF-1 or Pentax AF360FGZ flash?
Posted By Pentax4me

Replies: 19
Views: 1,066

I've read similar dubious reports about the AF540FGZ, and it's disappointing.

However, I've been shooting with a Metz 58AF2 since 2011 with good results, first with the K-3, and now with the K-3 III. There is a dedicated Pentax model, marked "FOR PEN" near the base. It might require couple of test shots to get set, but then it's consistent. I had one problem with the zoom mechanism, but that was quickly repaired under warranty around 2012 or so, and no bother since then. It's well-built and powerful, but there's no factory backup anymore because there's no company anymore. I normally use it in P-TTL, but sometimes I'll set it to manual and dial it down to 1/64 power and use it to trigger my studio flashes wirelessly. The camera is in Manual with the studio flashes, usually at 1/60 or 1/125. Set and forget.

I hope this is helpful.

Almost forgot: I've heard a lot of good things about the Yongnuo flashes, especially their prices.

Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 12-11-2023, 11:40 PM

Upcoming Trip to Athens - What to Bring?
Posted By Pentax4me

Replies: 48
Views: 1,761

Wow, there's lots of good advice here. I like the suggestion to take a practice tour in your hometown, so you can see for yourself how much kit you're willing to carry. Maybe even bring a bag of non-photo stuff you'd probably carry on holiday, for extra realism. As for long lenses, they are less important nowadays, because modern Pentax cameras produce hi-res pictures that can be cropped if necessary, with little loss in image quality, if any. This makes long lenses unnecessary most of the time. Wide is another story. I find that my Sigma 10-20mm lens can get a lot of use.

If you're a customary tripod user, consider bringing a mini model that's very light. You'll probably find that you only use it when you're alone, or at least not in a group of tourists, since nobody else will want to stand around while you set it up and put it away again.

Finally, buy postcards! It's always sunny in postcards, and they're images produced by pro photographers on good days, so they'll also give you ideas for how to get good shots of various sights, and sites. They'll be capable record pictures, possibly taken from spots that aren't accessible to the general public. The arty stuff, if you have that in mind, will likely mean getting up early or staying up late, if you want to catch sunrise or late night street lighting. Unfortunately, that might be impractical or chancy. Be careful!

Another final suggestion: learn at least a few words in the local language. The locals will appreciate your at least attempting to try to speak to them in their language, instead of assuming that everyone speaks English. Early on, I went to Puerto Rico one time, and the only Spanish words I knew were "Los baños?" ("The toilets/restrooms?"). Those can be important words at times. A phrasebook or translation app on your phone could be invaluable. When I was older, I visited Japan. I don't speak Japanese, but with the phrasebook, I managed, and surprisingly, I never had to repeat myself (no tricky accents in Japanese, apparently). The only times I seemed to be misunderstood was when I asked for fuel for my rental car. Somehow, whenever I asked for Regular gas, the station attendants would pick the Premium hose instead. I didn't think that was worth grumbling about, since they always cleaned my windshield.

Then there's the general bit of travel advice: bring twice as much money as you think you'll need, and half as much stuff.

Happy shooting on your holiday!

Forum: Pentax K-3 III 12-08-2023, 10:08 AM

K3 III getting very warm
Posted By Pentax4me

Replies: 15
Views: 1,240

When I got my K-3 III, I noticed that it got unusually warm, primarily on the left side of the screen, and reported it here, to discover that several other owners noticed the same thing. Presumably, the heat is generated by some device behind the screen, and is not caused by one side of the screen. I also mentioned it to the shop where I bought the camera, who advised me to keep an eye on the problem, in case I wanted to return the camera.

In any case, the warmth seemed to become less severe over a month or so, and now I don't find it bothersome or distracting at all.

Forum: Pentax K-3 III 12-08-2023, 09:03 AM

K3 Mk3 and DA* 16-50mm f/2.8 ED PLM focus
Posted By Pentax4me

Replies: 8
Views: 1,110

Yes, the DA* 16-50 lens focusses more quickly than any lens I've ever owned. It often seems like I've barely started to press the shutter release or the AF button. At first, it was occasionally a slight shock when the lens popped into focus. It would be great if more of the lenses, even if only the DA* and FA* lenses, could focus so quickly (and accurately, so far).

Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 10-06-2023, 09:54 AM

Metz Mecablitz 44 AF-1 or Pentax AF360FGZ flash?
Posted By Pentax4me

Replies: 19
Views: 1,066

Have you considered getting some studio flash units for your studio shooting situation? Yes, it is possible to get good results with shoe-mount flash units, but it's just easier with the more powerful plug-in units. Also, they can be fitted with big light modifiers, like a 5-foot-wide umbrella, or a 30"x30" or larger soft box, which will give you softer light, with fewer shadows. You don't have to worry about P-TTL compatibility, since most studio flash units have infrared sensors that will trigger their flashes when they see the flash from the primary unit. The primary unit can be triggered by a PC cord going from your camera, or with the built-in flash or a shoe-mount flash dialled down to very low power, like 1/32 or 1/64. Or, you can use a built-in or shoe-mount flash to provide some fill lighting while also triggering your studio units.

You can use a flash meter, as I did when I was shooting with film, but with digital cameras, it's easy to see if you got the look you were after. Not quite right? Just adjust the f-stop until you've got what you want. The camera is usually set to Manual, so there's no confusion between what you want and what the camera wants. The shutter speed is usually set between 1/60 and your top synch speed, like 1/180, 1/200, or maybe even 1/250, because you want all light falling on your subject to come from your flash units, not from the light in the room.

Yes, big new studio flash units can be very pricey, but used ones can be a real bargain, especially the old ones that still work just fine. I bought a Bowens 400 for under $500, including stand, and then a pair of old Courtenay 650 units, complete with stands that are tall enough to hit the ceiling in an 8-foot-tall or slightly taller room. They also came with a boom and a weight. I never used the boom and weight, so I sold those and still had all the gear I needed, but now at a slightly reduced price. $750 was the price I paid, minus $150 from the boom and weight sale, so a good deal. The only issue with the older studio flash units is that some of them don't have the fine adjustability of modern gear, so instead of having a range of 1/64 to full power, it may have just 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and full power, meaning that even at 100 ISO, you may need to shoot at f8. To open up for shallower depth of filed, you can use an ND filter, for one option. Those model numbers are in watt-seconds, meaning they're much more powerful than the 150-200 watt-seconds output of typical shoe-mount flash units. This can come in handy when you're bouncing the light off a reflecting umbrella, or even through a shoot-through type. Newer old studio units, like from this century, will likely have the finely adjustable power outputs of current units. I bought those three flashes over 20 years ago, and they still serve me well.

Just something different to think about. Also, the POP! of big studio flash units firing lets your subjects see and hear that they're in a real studio, even if it's in your living room, garage, or basement.

---------- Post added 10-06-23 at 10:17 AM ----------

---------- Post added 10-06-23 at 10:20 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by sebberry Quote
"What's your budget?
I ended up getting a new Godox with wireless transmitter after having two dead AF540FGZ flash units. The Godox is a good bit of kit. I know this doesn't address your question specifically, but don't limit yourself to those options."

You had two AF540FGZ flashes die on you? I was considering getting one, for the weather resistance, for times when I'm shooting outdoors and it starts to rain. However, it looks like the model is discontinued, with no replacement listed. That's two clues that they're not the best flash Pentax ever made. Do you know what went wrong with yours?

Read more at: Metz Mecablitz 44 AF-1 or Pentax AF360FGZ flash? - Page 2 - PentaxForums.com

Forum: Pentax K-3 III 09-23-2023, 06:55 PM

Custom Image default
Posted By Pentax4me

Replies: 3
Views: 755

I've had a few odd settings changes, like a few days ago, the camera was set to Monotone when I turned it on, and it took me quite a bit of puzzling with it to get it back to Vibrant/MIYABI, the setting I normally use. After reading your post a few minutes ago, I checked and found that Custom Image memory was indeed set to on, so I'm wondering what's going on. I forgot that Custom Image is not in the Customization section of the menu, which is a bit counterintuitive.

Forum: Pentax K-3 III 09-23-2023, 06:36 PM

Local time
Posted By Pentax4me

Replies: 7
Views: 963

If you forget to charge your phone and it goes dead, would your camera lose its time info?

Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 09-12-2023, 07:09 AM

DA 200mm F2.8 vs DFA 70-200 F2.8 for full frame
Posted By Pentax4me

Replies: 34
Views: 4,179

FA* 70-200 f2.8 is the lens that I have. I have no experience with the FA* 80-200 (I've never even seen one), so I can't comment on it. The FA* 70-200 f2.8 can be described as very sharp and very heavy. If you can put up with the one aspect, you'll really like the other aspect.

I should mention that the tripod foot on the lens helps a lot. When the camera is not using a support (monopod, tripod), you can rotate the tripod foot around to the top, where it serves as a very good handle for the camera and lens.

Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 09-10-2023, 07:42 AM

Venus Optics Laowa 20mm f/4 Zero-D Shift
Posted By Pentax4me

Replies: 69
Views: 6,781

I have the After image, but I'd have to dig for the Before one, though it should be around. The images are semi-nude, so it would probably have to be in a DM, unless I put a dot or two on any "offending" areas. That's doable, of course.

Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 09-10-2023, 07:18 AM

DA 200mm F2.8 vs DFA 70-200 F2.8 for full frame
Posted By Pentax4me

Replies: 34
Views: 4,179

As it happens, I have the FA* 70-200 2.8, and was happily using it last night at an outdoor free concert here. It was actually the first time I'd used it at a concert, because the security folks at indoor concerts often get grumpy at the mere sight of an SLR, never mind one with a 70-200 and its big lens hood attached. I've even had a friendly one pantomime to me (it was too loud to talk) that cellphones are okay, but actual cameras are not. Really?

As part of Ska & Reggae Fest Victoria, there was a ska punk concert with two lesser-known bands, Safe Decision and Belvedere. The K3 III is great, and with the DA* 16-50 PLM and the FA* 70-200 I was able to get some good shots of the band and the audience. In the mosh pit were Goths, Heavy Metallers, Punks, and a tall grey-haired dude who seemed to be having a great time, getting right into the slam-dancing. I didn't fancy an elbow to the head (again), so I stayed back in the calmer part of the audience. I hadn't heard about the concert in advance, I just heard the music as I left home, so after checking out what was happening, I went back home, just a block away, and got my camera and a couple of lenses. Living in a small city has a lot of advantages.

Forum: Pentax K-3 III 09-08-2023, 08:28 PM

Six different versions of the K3 III (cont.)
Posted By Pentax4me

Replies: 26
Views: 2,356

With the flurry of firmware updates to the K-3 III (up to 2.10 now!), it seems like the engineers are far from reaching the limits of what this amazing camera can do. I don't see a new top Pentax APS-C camera coming out anytime soon.

As for Version 2.10, how many of you think the new "while-pressed" options would be useful to you on a regular basis?

Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 09-08-2023, 08:11 PM

Venus Optics Laowa 20mm f/4 Zero-D Shift
Posted By Pentax4me

Replies: 69
Views: 6,781

Agreed. I only shoot architecture occasionally, but the one time I had to use extreme perspective correction was on a picture of a model (but she had a fine build, lol). The dimensions of the room required me to stand too close to her, with the result that her head was too big, while her apparently tiny feet looked far away. This was a decade ago, so I was probably using the DA 18-135 on a K-5. Working on it in humble Photoshop Elements allowed me to correct the perspective to the point of making an image that was both realistic and good enough to possibly submit to a competition.

Forum: Ricoh Theta 360° Cameras 09-08-2023, 07:34 PM

How do you protect your Theta Camera ?
Posted By Pentax4me

Replies: 9
Views: 2,733

Maybe their ad is incorrect. This is what I read in the link you provided (caps are actually in the ad):

"Typical Physical Properties:

Solid Rubber - This product is NOT sponge or foam
Durometer / Hardness Shore A 60+/-5

Tensile Strength 525 PSI

Elongation 200%

Operating Temperature -40 Deg. F. to +200 Deg. F.

Finish Smooth Both Sides"

Also, why not get a tripod? Most of the quality ones have a choice of angles for the legs, so at the narrower angles, the feet would likely not be visible in the picture. The "feet" for monopods are likely intended for indoor use only, with no risk of wind. Light stands (other than heavy duty models) are also mostly intended for indoor studio use. If you must use a monopod, some small (5 lbs.?) sandbags on the "feet' might provide the stability you need. Many outdoor photographers use them to hold down their light stands.

Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 09-08-2023, 07:24 PM

Lens Sizes
Posted By Pentax4me

Replies: 19
Views: 934

Generally speaking, the shorter the zoom range, the better the image quality. This means that a 70-200mm lens will normally be quite a bit sharper between 70mm and 200 mm than an 18-200 lens (or more likely 28-200 lens on full frame or 35 mm) would be in that range. Then you'd have to get an 18 (or 28)-70mm lens as well, but both would be sharper, plus if you only need the short length, like for indoor use, you can just carry the smaller and lighter lens on that occasion.

Those long ZOOM RANGE (not length) zoom lenses, like your 28-200, are sometimes called "superzooms", because they give the impression that they can do it all, but there are always compromises, and in this case you give away some image sharpness, and possibly lens speed (smaller f-stop (higher number)). Research some more before deciding how important this difference may seem to you. Not everyone needs pro-level lenses, because their compromise is increased size, weight, and especially, price.

Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 09-08-2023, 06:20 PM

DA 200mm F2.8 vs DFA 70-200 F2.8 for full frame
Posted By Pentax4me

Replies: 34
Views: 4,179

EDIT: I seem to have read a bit too quickly. What I actually want are lenses that have BOTH internal focussing AND internal zooming. The 16-50 and 18-135 extend to zoom, not to focus, which is just the same if you're shooting in the rain. While Victoria gets half the precipitation of Vancouver, it's still part of the Wet Coast. We have pretty much just two seasons here, drought and monsoon, so months of sunny weather are followed by months of rainy and windy weather.

Internal focussing may have the drawback of focus breathing, but it's worth it to me when it comes to shooting in rain. I shot in the rain one time with my DA 18-135, and while it had no problems, having to carefully dry off the front tube while very slowly extending and retracting it (no funny remarks, wise guys) to avoid sucking any water into the lens through the breathing hole(s) was a time-consuming step I could do without. The FA* 70-200 and DA* 50-135 lenses don't have this issue, although the 50-135 is off my favourites list at present, because the SDM motor failed, and the local repair shop wouldn't fix it, referring me to Ricoh/Pentax Canada instead, with a guesstimated repair bill of $500CAD or more.

The DA* 16-50 is very sharp, but extends quite noticeably at the longer end of the zoom, which is a bit disappointing. Yes, I bought it anyway, but it takes a bit away from the pleasure/smugness of shooting in downpours with impunity that the AW designation implies.

Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 08-24-2023, 12:08 PM

In-camera focus stacking?
Posted By Pentax4me

Replies: 15
Views: 1,261

Does focus bracketing have any connection to focus stacking? As I'm sure you know, focus bracketing is a feature of the K-3 III, and the K-3 as well.

Forum: Ricoh Theta 360° Cameras 08-22-2023, 08:37 PM

How do you protect your Theta Camera ?
Posted By Pentax4me

Replies: 9
Views: 2,733

That rubberized tape would not be ideal for cushioning, since it's solid rubber, not the sponge rubber of the more typical Neoprene. For padding, the stuff you want is the wide foam type used between the sides of a pickup truck and a camper top, something like this:

Self Adhesive Camper Mount Foam Tape 3/16in x 1 1/4in x 33ft for Truck Shells, RVs, Cars, Boats and Home. Helps Stop Vibrations, Scratches and Squeaks. Seal Around Air Conditioners, Doors and Windows : Amazon.ca: Automotive

You can also find this kind of foam tape listed under Weatherstrip.

Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 08-22-2023, 08:22 PM

Venus Optics Laowa 20mm f/4 Zero-D Shift
Posted By Pentax4me

Replies: 69
Views: 6,781

I totally agree with your last sentence. The lenses I would have at hand for architectural pictures would be the Sigma 10-20 f4-5.6 and the Pentax DA* 16-50 f2.8 PLM. The 10-20 would probably be the first one I'd reach for, but I must admit that this subject is a very occasional one for me, so I wouldn't be buying a dedicated lens for it.

Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 08-21-2023, 02:11 PM

Venus Optics Laowa 20mm f/4 Zero-D Shift
Posted By Pentax4me

Replies: 69
Views: 6,781

Although a shift lens is ideal for architectural shots, if you don't have one, using a regular wide lens can provide acceptable pictures if your camera is level, producing no converging verticals. Of course, you get way more foreground at the bottom of the picture, but it's easy to crop that away. The 2-way (left/right, front/back) level in the K-3 III makes it easy to get the camera level in both directions, thus avoiding converging or diverging verticals (diverging verticals can occur when shooting downwards, like from a balcony or wall).

Any opinions on occasional level-camera shooting in the absence of a tilt/shift lens? Although these pictures might not look great at 40"x60", at 8x10/8x12 they may be acceptable, or even better than acceptable.

Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 08-21-2023, 03:01 AM

DA 200mm F2.8 vs DFA 70-200 F2.8 for full frame
Posted By Pentax4me

Replies: 34
Views: 4,179

I always wanted a Pentax FA* 70-200 2.8, but back in 1998, it cost $1000 more than the equivalent Sigma, so I got the Sigma. Fast-forward about 20 years, and after having to put the Sigma lens away when a sprinkling of rain started, I went for it and got the D FA* lens. I should mention that I was using it on a K-3, and now on my K-3 III. This was my first * lens, and I was highly impressed. It focusses pretty quickly, and is super sharp. Then I started to notice the weight, and remembered that I'm shooting with a crop camera, and the effectively 105-300 mm lens was too long to use indoors, in my home anyway. Then I bought the DA* 50-135 lens that I should have bought in the first place. It was less than half the price and a third of the weight. And it's just as super sharp as the 70-200 2.8.

However, the 50-135 is in for service now, like many SDM lenses. Bummer! Meanwhile, that big heavy FA* 70-200 2.8 is ready to go, whether it's shots of the distant mountains or any outdoor shot that needs that range. So only you can decide. It was my first * lens, and then I got the 50-135, which is also super sharp, and then I bought the DA* 16-50 PLM, which is also super sharp, plus it focusses so quickly that it has made me flinch a bit on a couple of occasions.

What's the bottom line? I want more * lenses! The regular ones don't measure up any more. At the moment, I don't have the use of the 50-135, but the 16-50 is so sharp that I'm convinced that I can just crop as needed to get the effect of having a longer lens. And I can even do it in-camera!

I hope this was worth your time to read, since it's a bit digressed.

Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 08-06-2023, 02:11 PM

MSRP Pentax 6x7, 67, 67II etc.
Posted By Pentax4me

Replies: 3
Views: 416

Well, Pentax used to say that the 6x7 bodies were priced low so that you'd have money left for more lenses, as well as more bodies.

Forum: Pentax K-3 III 07-21-2023, 04:50 AM

I finally came back home*
Posted By Pentax4me

Replies: 29
Views: 2,677

The K-3 III and the DA* 16-50 PLM make a formidable team for around-town shooting. It's not my first Star lens (I also have the DA* 50-135 and the DFA* 70-200), but that camera and lens combo just seems to click for the shooting I've been doing lately. Knowing that if the lens seems a bit short, it's easy to crop and still have a great image, is reassuring. I've been doing some night shooting, and knowing that ISO 1600-3200 still allows for clean images with very little noise is also a big plus. The sharpness of the K-3 III and the Star lenses still amazes me.

The composing level is super useful, but not as easy to use as the one on the K-3, since its indicators disappear into dark backgrounds. However, the viewfinder illumination deals with that. Since I shoot JPEG, it made good sense to switch the RAW button to light up the viewfinder. It's clear that a lot of thinking went on to enable us to customize our K-3 IIIs to suit our individual needs. I've had the camera for over 6 months and I'm still exploring the focussing options, along with so many other options. This camera will fascinate me for years, which appears to be what Pentax was going for.

Welcome to the Forum, mhsp1948!

Forum: Pentax K-3 III Monochrome 05-30-2023, 05:20 PM

Pentax Is Back –The New King Of BLACK
Posted By Pentax4me

Replies: 11
Views: 2,207

However, some Leica owners are paranoid about having their very expensive cameras snatched, so they tape over the name, thereby diminishing their bragging rights. Feeling that way must also be distracting and sap some of the joy of shooting, while we Pentax shooters wander about, happy and relatively carefree.

Forum: Post Your Photos! 05-07-2023, 10:33 AM

Abstract Feeling down? Have a laugh...
Posted By Pentax4me

Replies: 2
Views: 311

One time on Jay Leno, a trainer brought a sea lion on stage. It did a few tricks, but I really laughed when she told it to act like a seal, so it flopped down on its belly, just like a seal, which can't lift itself off the ground like a sea lion can.

Forum: Pentax K-3 III 05-07-2023, 08:28 AM

Advice
Posted By Pentax4me

Replies: 39
Views: 2,002

Why not wait until you move to Florida and buy your new camera once you get there? You may find a friendly shop that will be able to give you excellent recommendations, since they live there and know the local conditions really well. Also, if you buy in the US, you're have proper warranty coverage if anything turns out to need attention. This is another good reason to buy from a shop. First, by buying from a local shop, you'd be helping to ensure that the shop is still there when you need them, or want to check out how something feels to use before you buy it. For one example, when I bought a K-5 back in 2011, right out of the box neither control wheel worked. You could turn them, but nothing happened. I have no idea why I didn't notice that when I picked up the camera, but I blame it on the excitement of getting my first DSLR. Replacing the camera was just a matter of going back to the shop and getting another camera off the shelf and I was good to go the same day, with no postal delays or hassles to deal with.

Second, you'll have a warranty that's valid in the US, and warranty coverage can be a big help if anything goes wrong, as in the example above. Modern DSLRS, and even "simpler" cameras like mirrorless and P&S (Point &Shoot) models are very complex devices, so it's no surprise when one of the hundred or so features doesn't work as it should. I've had my K-3 III for a few months, but I still haven't checked out its connectivity features yet. I've had my K-3 since 2014, but the intervalometer function is yet to be used or even tested, for just one example.

Finally, July is not far away, but it still leaves time to add to your savings if you're putting away some money every month. This will make your purchasing decisions easier when the time comes.

So, which camera and which lens? I agree with a number of members that the K-3 III and 18-135 is the best kit to start out with. Since you shoot RAW, I assume that you have quite a bit of experience and don't want a camera that you'll outgrow. The K-3 III is one camera you will not outgrow. As for the DA 18-135 lens, it has a very wide zoom range, is very light and compact, and is quite affordable. While it does not have a wide aperture, this is less important when it's matched with the K-3 III, because that camera can give you clean images even at fairly high ISO settings. I won't give upper limits, because your acceptable image quality and mine may not be the same. With the K-3 III, though, 3200-6400 ISO seem like "medium" speeds, with much more to explore at the higher settings.

Oddly enough, I recommend not buying any DA* lenses, at least not for a while. They make such sharp pictures possible that you'll soon be spoiled and want to shoot with nothing else, regardless of their greater size, weight, and cost relative to everyday lenses.

Good luck and happy shooting!

Search took 0.00 seconds | Showing results 1 to 25 of 45

Page 1 of 2

⟶

Forum Jump