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Forum: Lens Clubs 11-08-2021, 10:22 PM  
300mm plus Lens Club: discuss your long lenses
Posted By alfa75ts
Replies: 40,869
Views: 4,326,963
Braeside this morning, K3III, DA*300, Pentax HD-DA 1.4TC (sorry, there's a lot):
Forum: Pentax News and Rumors 02-18-2021, 04:32 PM  
Laowa 100mm F2.8 2:1 Macro lens for k-mount
Posted By JensE
Replies: 439
Views: 53,775
I took the first 'real' pictures with the Laowa 100mm today. We had 10C and sun on the hives, so the bees decided to clean and collect some water. This bee's judgement about the temperature over the melting snow wasn't very accurate, I'm afraid. Looks like she held onto that Thyme branch hoping to get warmer ...




Taken at f/8, 2:1 using a K-1. Cropped to about 60% width and 16:10 format. Lit by flash using a diffuse reflective umbrella.


Detail at 100%:
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 01-19-2021, 07:12 PM  
Irix 150 mm f 2.8 or Laowa 100mm f/2.8 2x Ultra Macro lens?
Posted By JensE
Replies: 23
Views: 4,573
I bought the Irix 150mm sometime early last year and, given that I feel we're just getting acquainted, I was surprised to find out that I must have taken close to 1000 pictures with it already. The Laowa only arrived on Dec 24th, so it hasn't seen a 'macro season' yet.

In addition to the obvious differences that tryphon4 and bdery listed, handling feels somewhat different.

The Irix is easier to focus than the LAOWA. One reason is that, while both lenses are labelled f/2.8, the Laowa is at least 1/2 stop darker than the Irix. The difference is a lot more pronounced at 1:1, where the Irix surpasses the otherwise leading DFA100WR (surprising, I know, with it's small front lens). I may post some measurements later, but the difference is obvious in the viewfinder, and I did reach out to the Irix in the evening hours over the DFA because of the brighter viewfinder image. The other reason is the very short focus throw of the Laowa, covering the huge range within ~ 120 degrees. The Irix is similar to the DFA100WR, the larger diameter is offset by higher friction/damping. Scales on the Laowa are cramped and not well labelled, the ones on the Irix are much more usable - on par again with the DFA100WR, where I would wish for a denser distance scale to make the DoF markers more usable. The Irix doesn't have any, the ones on the Laowa are plain wrong by a huge factor.

Despite the Irix rendering and bright viewfinder advantage, the DFA100WR got preference on a couple of macro shots last year, because I didn't have a standard lighting setup yet - it's harder to do with the Irix. If you use the hood on the Irix, the working distance becomes small and light angles steep. But you need to avoid light on the rather exposed front lens. The Laowa at 1:1 should work well without the hard to attach hood if you don't need the front protective filter, which seals off the otherwise exposed innards. With the hood, working distance is again fairly small. The plane filter may not be a problem flare-wise - yet to be seen and potentially can be improved by a different filter. At 2:1, the front lens is finally at the front - but then none of the others does 2:1 natively.

The lens-side of the hood bayonet seems to be plastic on the Irix and aluminum on the Laowa. It does make a difference to me: I have worn out the lens side of my first DA18-135mm in about 5 years by reversing the hood for storage in my bag. Also a new hood didn't stay on reliably! I'm very careful since, stowing my lenses with the hood on whenever I have enough room, but the metal bayonet promises better abrasion resistance in the long term. I do consider lenses to be used for a long time, even if not by me personally.

The Irix's diameter is too big to mount my ring flash, which I like to use as fill light sometimes (esp. bottom half), using the supplied rings/plates. For the Laowa, I don't feel I need to go through the hoops of attaching it to a spare hood as I did for the DFA100WR in the same fashion as the Pentax AF160FC does, because the filter thread is on the robust outer barrel, so it works as designed just screwing in the flash mount plate. For the Irix, I need to get a similar step-down-and-up again stack of rings as I glued into the spare DFA hood. The open diameter will still be larger than the front lens. Doable, but not as convenient. Btw., I lLOVE the tightly fitting, very well made Irix case, which makes it easy to throw it into my backpacks. The Irix comes with a well designed tripod foot. I don't the Laowa one yet, but will order one mainly for balance with the ring flash head. Otherwise balance is not really an issue - not even close to the DFA15-30mm/2.8, for which there is none.

Image quality wise, there are some opinions already. From the little use it has seen so far, the Laowa looks as nice as the Irix, if not a hair better at macro distances. Apochromatic correction seems to be even better than the Irix's (visible mainly wide open) - but both are really close and significantly better than the DFA100WR.. From a rendering perspective, I don't have enough examples to thoroughly compare them yet but what I've seen so far, it's again a close call with the Laowa having a slight edge in smoothness of both the foreground and background - at 1:1.

In conclusion, you can't go wrong with either and I would consider the Laowa a bit more complementary to the DFA100WR than the Irix in terms of macro use, the Irix however in terms of non-macro use.
Forum: Post Your Photos! 07-23-2018, 07:00 PM  
Macro Sunpak DX 8R Flash
Posted By Vulcaninkman
Replies: 1
Views: 656
This is just a note - I have an old Sunpak DX 8R ring flash that I used for ages with my Pentax SF-1 film camera and 100 mm macro lens. I haven't used it at all since I got my K-3, so tonight, I thought I would give it a whirl. I was expecting to have to use it in manual mode and fiddle around with power levels to get the correct exposure. I tried the TTL mode. To my pleasant surprise, some shots I took at different distances all turned out with pretty much the correct exposure. (I always use the ring flash off-axis, which creates a nicer image as the ring flash becomes the macro equivalent of a softbox when off-axis) I was looking more at the exposure. As I was hand holding both the flash and the camera, I realize that my focus and compositions could be better. This is more or less just to see how the exposure would come out. I need to experiment further with this.
Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories 09-03-2018, 01:01 PM  
Sunpak DX 8R
Posted By stihlmania
Replies: 0
Views: 774
I had some spare time to test my newly acquired Sunpak ring flash with the Pentax PT-2D module on my 1st DS [TTL]. First time using a ring flash and I am impressed! Very consistent exposures with an A 50 F1.7 and the DA 18-55. I am documenting our figurine collection for homeowners insurance, about 200 more to finish!
Forum: Photographic Technique 03-13-2021, 04:57 PM  
Focus help with K-3 birds in flight
Posted By Paul the Sunman
Replies: 66
Views: 10,867
For birds, especially birds in flight, I find that 1/640 s or 1/400 s is not sufficient. I generally use 1/1250 or faster, with f/8 or wider aperture. This gives better sharpness and more pop.

1/1250, f/6.3 (K1 + DFA 150-450)
Forum: Photographic Technique 10-20-2016, 06:22 PM  
Focus help with K-3 birds in flight
Posted By ajaxmgr
Replies: 66
Views: 10,867
I am a frustrated bird photographer and need some help. could someone give me some ideas on what focusing settings I need to use when I am trying to capture birds in flight? If anyone can tell me what to use or where to go to help me I certainly would appreciate it
Forum: Photographic Technique 09-13-2013, 05:00 PM  
Perfect focus everytime
Posted By Wired
Replies: 299
Views: 103,805
So you have calibrated your lenses for front and back focus, however your are still getting shots that appear out of focus. You go back and spend hours re-calibrating every one of your lenses, maybe even send them off to Pentax to calibrate, but you still end up with the shots that are front or back focused.

Well I'm here to help with a little trick on how to configure your K5/K7 to get more of your shots in focus more often.

The problem here is not that your lenses are not calibrated correctly. The problem here would not be fixed by going to a Canon 5D mkiii, D800, OMD EM1, or whatever else may be crossing your mind. The problem here is that from the time you lock focus to the time your press the shutter either you or your subject may have moved. Even when you fully depress that shutter you may have moved the camera just enough to loose focus. This is obviously more important for when precision focusing can make or break the shot. This also assumes that you are not experiencing camera shake, but true focus issues. There is a way to over come this!

First off, we are going to go into your cameras shooting menu and scroll over to page 5 where "Button Customization" lives




next, select AF Button and set it to "Enable AF" this is on by default.




af button by LK_335, on Flickr




Then go back to the button customization menu and go down to "shutter button half press", we are going to change this to off




half by LK_335, on Flickr



almost done. go to the side of your camera and flick the switch over to "C".



AFC by LK_335, on Flickr



Finally, we are going to set your "AF" mode switch to SEL.



So what does this accomplish?

First off by being in SEL mode for autofocus you can now choose which auto focus point you are using in the view finder. Your going to select this with the 4 way pad on the back to keep your AF point right over whatever you want to be in sharpest focus.

Second, by having the camera in constant AF mode, your camera will do whatever it can to keep whatever is under that AF point in focus. So the AF motor will constantly be hunting, you will notice you only need to move a fraction of an inch for the camera's AF to start working. But your target is still sharp as a button.

I guess a skipped a step, you need to also keep your thumb held down on that AF button on the back. the second you release that button, AF stops!

The other bonus of this method is that if your shooting on a tripod, you can set your focus, hit the AF button to lock, then you can adjust your exposure and do whatever without fear that by pressing the shutter your camera may freak out and change focus on you.

This is invaluable not only for moving targets but for stationary ones too, because even though that lime on your desk isn't moving, you are when your holding your camera. So let the camera do the work and keep that focus locked!



Quotes from other pages regarding this method:

"Doing so allows you to set the camera to continuous-servo AF (AF-C) mode permanently, while still being able to get the benefit of focus-lock like you do in single-servo (AF-S) mode. This means that at any time, you can switch between a focus/recompose/shoot style of photography (portraits and landscapes) and continuous subject tracking (sports & wildlife) without having to change camera switches or menu settings."

"To emulate single-servo mode (focus/recompose/shoot)

Place the active AF point on your subject
Press the AF-On button to acquire focus
Release the AF-On button to lock focus
Recompose and shoot
To focus continuously on a moving subject

Place the active AF point on the subject
Press the AF-On button
Keep the AF-On button pressed to track focus while simultaneously pressing the shutter release"


K3 Setup for AF button focusing!


you've asked for it! Now you got it. It's incredibly easy!

Go into your shooting menu, page 4.
Select Button Customization
AF Button - AF2

Then, hold down the "AF Mode" button on the side of your camera, use the front dial to select "AF.C, use the rear dial to select "SEL-1". Thats it your done!

For bonus points, use the different SEL settings to allow the focus to track across the frame. Very handy in sport situations. ie: SEL-3 will lock onto where your focus point is entered, then track it as it moves. Very useful.
Forum: Lens Clubs 02-06-2021, 02:11 AM  
HD Pentax-D FA* 1:1.4 85mm Lens Club
Posted By Medex
Replies: 306
Views: 46,108
F1.8
IMGP0281-Edit-2 by MG Mindaugas, on Flickr
Forum: Monthly Photo Contests 11-03-2020, 12:49 PM  
Say hello.
Posted By ovaletedecopas
Replies: 2
Views: 229
I would like to nominate this photo
Forum: Lens Clubs 06-14-2020, 04:50 AM  
The Sigma Lens Club- All lenses
Posted By pepperberry farm
Replies: 3,232
Views: 499,295
spider by Pepperberry Farm, on Flickr

dragonfly by Pepperberry Farm, on Flickr
Forum: Lens Clubs 06-13-2020, 02:26 PM  
300mm plus Lens Club: discuss your long lenses
Posted By taks
Replies: 40,869
Views: 4,326,963
Thank you :) They were quite cooperative.

Gooselings with DA300+TC
I know I can fly... by Taka 550, on Flickr
Forum: Lens Clubs 06-12-2020, 08:02 PM  
300mm plus Lens Club: discuss your long lenses
Posted By tduell
Replies: 40,869
Views: 4,326,963
Kangaroo portrait.
They can be difficult subjects, their fur often causes an out of focus look, and hard to catch light in their eyes due to their large eyelashes.
K-3 II DA* 300 + 1.4x TC, handheld. See exif for shot details.

Cheers,
Terry
Forum: Lens Clubs 06-12-2020, 07:56 AM  
300mm plus Lens Club: discuss your long lenses
Posted By kengoh
Replies: 40,869
Views: 4,326,963
Coppersmith Barbet
- K3 + Sigma 500 F4.5

Coppersmith Barbet with fruits in mouth by Ken Goh, on Flickr
Forum: Lens Clubs 06-05-2020, 11:55 PM  
300mm plus Lens Club: discuss your long lenses
Posted By kengoh
Replies: 40,869
Views: 4,326,963
Common Flameback Woodpeckers
- K5-IIs + Sigma 500/4.5

Common Flameback Woodpecker by Ken Goh, on Flickr
Forum: Lens Clubs 06-07-2020, 02:36 PM  
300mm plus Lens Club: discuss your long lenses
Posted By Des
Replies: 40,869
Views: 4,326,963
Two images with the KP + DA 55-300 PLM at 300mm.

New Holland Honeyeater.



Young Galah (with a little fill flash)


Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 06-08-2020, 03:17 PM  
Pentax DA* 300mm f4 or Sigma 100-300mm EX DG f4
Posted By Des
Replies: 43
Views: 4,643
Congratulations Bas. I hope you will share your images and experiences in the long lenses thread: 300mm plus Lens Club: discuss your long lenses - PentaxForums.com

One word about the Sigma long lenses: they are known to be fussy about which teleconverters will work on which lens. I suggest you do some research about this.

As a post script to this discussion, I would add that I have been through the rounds of xx-300 consumer zoom (DA-L 55-300, DA 55-300 PLM), 300mm prime (FA*300 f4.5), xx-500mm zoom (Sigma 170-500) and long prime (Sigma 400mm f5.6 tele macro), and have tried a teleconverter with each. There is no perfect solution; everything is a compromise. The more so in K-mount, because the telephoto lens options (particularly for fast-focusing long lenses) are limited compared to other mounts. On the plus side, though, there are good affordable options - and a wealth of help and experience available here.

Of the lenses I have used the best optical quality comes from the FA*300 (although it is slow to focus, so not great for birds in flight). My most-used lens is the DA 55-300 PLM, for its very good image quality, light weight, versatility and fast AF. 300mm gets you reasonable coverage of small-medium sized birds within say 10m and heavily cropped images of anything beyond that. The bigger gun of a 400mm prime adds a lot of weight and bulk (about 1.3kg); the xx-500 even more so (about 2kg). As the distances to subject increase, so does the degree of difficulty - by the time I get to, say, wading birds at 40m, atmospheric conditions and subject size in the frame (even with the 400mm prime or 420mm of 300 + TC) will usually limit the shot to just a record of the observation. And long lenses eat light. I agree with what others have said, that the key to improving bird photography is to try to get closer to the birds and to observe and understand their behaviour.

The other thing I would add is that a flash with an extender can be a valuable addition, bringing out more colour and detail and allowing for some lower ISO/faster shutter/narrower aperture. Just limit the fill to one stop or so. And consider a cheap gel to ensure a more suitable colour temperature for the flash beam.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 06-02-2020, 09:41 AM  
Pentax DA* 300mm f4 or Sigma 100-300mm EX DG f4
Posted By normhead
Replies: 43
Views: 4,643
You definitely need lenses finished to higher tolerances and more corrections with smaller sensors. Hence the cost of these systems compared to their APS-c counterparts. There's just no free lunch. I still see my ZS100 as a valuable addition, and for days when I take it, it's the size of one lens in my camera bag.

I can use it like an interchangeable lens, and just get it out when circumstances will take advantage of it's strengths. I was kind of hoping it would replace my 55-300 PLM on APS-c as an everyday kind of walk around, but the PLM /K-3 combo didn't lose their job.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 06-03-2020, 11:48 AM  
Pentax DA* 300mm f4 or Sigma 100-300mm EX DG f4
Posted By bertwert
Replies: 43
Views: 4,643
This thread came to mind while shooting this morning.

Here's an average size small songbird shot with a 400mm - I measured the distance as 30m from me to the subject. This image is cropped to half (quarter?) the size (half the pixels on the long edge), so I think this is the same FoV as an 800mm lens. With all that, it's still a much more 'environmental' shot of the bird. Goes to show how small they really are...

Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 06-03-2020, 01:10 PM  
Pentax DA* 300mm f4 or Sigma 100-300mm EX DG f4
Posted By automorphism
Replies: 43
Views: 4,643
I have birded extensively with both 300mm and 500mm on Pentax and Nikon respectively. Even with 500mm, I don't expect outstanding shots of small songbirds at greater than 20m. Upgrading to a better 300mm prime will help with that beautiful fine detail for closer shots and allow you a slight amount of additional cropping at longer-range shots. Upgrading your focal length will be the only thing that allows you to get those greater distance shots. To get better shots of certain species, spend time in the field and wait till they come closer.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 06-02-2020, 09:23 AM  
Pentax DA* 300mm f4 or Sigma 100-300mm EX DG f4
Posted By RICHARD L.
Replies: 43
Views: 4,643
This Canon 8.8 to 220.0 mm superzoom is the most complex lens I ever owned. It has 22 lens elements and still you can shoot with the sun head-on without seeing any flare. I will try f/4 next time ... lol ! Thanks !
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 06-01-2020, 10:50 PM  
Pentax DA* 300mm f4 or Sigma 100-300mm EX DG f4
Posted By UncleVanya
Replies: 43
Views: 4,643
Invest in a blind.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 06-02-2020, 12:31 AM  
Pentax DA* 300mm f4 or Sigma 100-300mm EX DG f4
Posted By Digitalis
Replies: 43
Views: 4,643
Or a ghillie suit. Which is basically how I got this:


Pentax K10D - Sigma 100-300mm f/4 APO EX DG - FYI, this blue wren female is about the size of a golf ball.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 06-02-2020, 06:44 AM  
Pentax DA* 300mm f4 or Sigma 100-300mm EX DG f4
Posted By bertwert
Replies: 43
Views: 4,643
I suppose the beard helps your face blend into the grass/trees too... :lol:
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 06-02-2020, 07:06 AM  
Pentax DA* 300mm f4 or Sigma 100-300mm EX DG f4
Posted By SSGGeezer
Replies: 43
Views: 4,643
here is a Painted Turtle who is about 10 inches long from about 10 meters away, (or less,) K-1 with D-FA 150-450 at 450mm. As the turtle is about 10 inches long, with this image full size is 4395px on the long side after cropping, and he still takes up about a third of the frame. It just proves that for little critters, you need to get close.

More painted Turtle by SSGGeezer, on Flickr
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