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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
05-12-2019, 03:44 PM
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I too have opted for Affinity Photo on my iPad Pro and so far have enjoyed the results I am getting. It’s a simple little workflow and it works. Really impressed with Affinity though. I was a long time Adobe user but got tired of dealing with subscriptions and renewals.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
05-12-2019, 04:44 PM
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I'm a Lightroom user - I have Photoshop installed but rarely go into it.
Another one to add in to the 'free' ring is PhotoScape X, which has both PC and Mac versions.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
04-30-2019, 11:26 PM
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Yeah, f11's a good aperture for shooting flowers, f1.8's a good aperture for bokeh.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
05-01-2019, 11:31 AM
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Welcome to the forum and congrats on your shot. You focus point in getting this kind of effect is spot on. So many would have used multipoint AF which would have perhaps grabbed onto an outer petal. Since the flower is off-center I am wondering if you used manual focusing. I noticed you used a little reduction of exposure by setting your exposure comp to get a slightly underexposed dreamy effect. Very nice! But remember, we are viewing on a backlit screen. If making a print this might turn out too dark.
Using center-weighted metering for such a shot may not be best, as the flower will be much brighter than the background. Center weighted is ok if there is no backlighting and the central area of the frame contains pretty much equal components of light and dark that will provide a balanced exposure.
As to your equipment, good choice! Your DA 18-135mm lens is also very capable. Since it has WR construction, which is great in drippy weather, it can also deliver impressive closeups.
You are starting out in advanced processing operation, which is fine. But you might also try shooting RAW + JPEG to compare what the camera's processor gives you. Just be sure to go into the Custom Image menus to implement Fine Sharpening, at least in the "Bright" category, which is best to have your camera set to for most shooting needs. Have your mode dial set to Av as you did in your shot, or on the "P" mode, then access your adjustments via the info button. The 4 buttons around the ok button will now serve for navigation. The Custom Image section should be the first one. Hit ok to open the section. You might find it is already on the "Bright" category. Then hit info again to open it for adjustment. Tab down to Sharpening and using your thumb dial, put an "F" by the "S" and you are done. Hit ok and just turn off the camera, which will exit the screen.
BTW- "bokeh" means the quality (smoothness) and degree of background blur.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
04-30-2019, 09:07 PM
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I think one of the harder skills to learn is estimating the exact aperture you need for the desired DOF. It's not too hard to get there with trial and error, which I do a lot. But if you only have time for one shot, setting up the camera in advance is useful. It helps if you can estimate distance and subject size accurately.
For a good example of what I'm talking about, set the DA 18-135 to 135mm, aperture to f8 and focus on something at about the minimum distance the lens will focus to. See how little DOF your shot has.
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Forum: General Photography
12-03-2014, 07:24 PM
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Pardon my ignorance, but what does P/Hyper Program actually DO? What advantages does it offer to an AV shooter like me?
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
04-21-2019, 12:50 PM
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The thing about organising your pictures is that no two people will have exactly the same needs or requirements. Organising yourself in named and dated folders will work well for some and not for others. There is no “correct” method.
But for someone just starting out out in digital photography or taking it to a higher level I would suggest to go to the most future proof level.
By accident I started using Photoshop elements when I started digital photography and immediately started using tags , keywords, and collections. Now , 13 years and many many photo folders later I can instantly display in LR pictures of a specific holiday or trip. More importantly I can instantly display all my photos of my dog Rio or all my photos taken with a specific lens. This flexibility may not be right for all but if it would be useful you need to start as soon as possible
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
04-21-2019, 07:55 AM
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I started with Corel After shot, moved on to Affinity, and recently started with Darktable. (Still learning and practicing)
There's plenty of YouTube tutorials on any software you pick, or help here on the forum.
Like learning anything, it takes practice. Don't get upset when your out of camera jpg looks better than the RAW file you are trying to develop.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
04-21-2019, 06:01 AM
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I'd recommend shooting RAW+ and get those convenient jpegs. You'll probably find the camera's development engine is hard to beat, but you'll have the RAW for when you want/need it.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
04-21-2019, 01:34 AM
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No need to produce a full-size jpeg from the raw file. Produce a resized jpeg suitable for the purpose you intend to use it. If you intend to use an online printing service you should resize to their requirements (pixel size/ppi). If you intend to post on the web or view on your screen at home a smaller image is needed.
I use Silkypix Developer Studio Pro 8 as my raw converter. I typically produce a 2158*1440 jpeg from the raw file for viewing on my screen. If i want to do selective editing in Photoshop I will produce a full sized TIFF first, then use PS to edit that.
I use LR to catalogue all my images and will "stack" the jpeg/TIFF/raw file on top of each other so that only the jpeg is available for viewing. if i want to produce a different sized jpeg for printing i unstack and use the TIFF or raw file to create a new jpeg.
Most raw converters will "reapply" the development settings you used when previously editing a raw file in the same program. These settings are usually stored in a sidecar or other type of settings file. The existence or not of a jpeg or tiff in the same folder should not have any affect on this behaviour. If you want to start from scratch again with a raw file then just reset your converter settings to default.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
04-20-2019, 12:55 PM
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I have had my K-70 for about year. I have been using Affinity Photo for about 6 months. I messed with Gimp and some other "freebie" and was never comfortable. With the tutorials on Affinity I was able to do some basic things although there was some frustration later on with the speed of the presentations. I bought the Simon Foster course SOLID FOUNDATIONS from Udemy. (There is a trial and guarantee that you have apparently discovered.) This was an improvement and when used with the Affinity tutorials things are even better. The DSLR and the editing program were all but new ground for me. I am relatively happy with my photography world. That said, I am an enthusiastic hobbyist with no demands as to output. If you are serious some of the added bells and whistles on LR/Photo. might be important to you. Research can save you money.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
04-20-2019, 12:58 PM
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Photoshop is for graphic artists, not so much for most amateurs. Light room I've never bothered with. Affinity will be fine I'm sure.The free software that comes with most computers is almost good enough for many images. But shoot raw plus jpeg and see what the camera does and compare it with what you have to do to match it. 90% of my photoshop use was nothing more than one command, "Enhance image." 99% of photoshop I only used occasionally, some parts I never used except for jokes and fooling around. $120 a year might seem cheap. I use Apples now discontinued Aperture.It cost my $279 and the a $79 upgrade.
$360 for 14 years. $25 a year. I'm currently investigating Alien Skin exposure X-4 as a replacement, as Aperture has been discontinued. But there's lot's out there. And for many years, I just used the free software that came with the computer, and occasionally my school licensed photoshop when I needed it. But my advice is start simple, spend the big bucks later if you need to.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
04-20-2019, 07:10 PM
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Many RAW processing software programs (such as LR, ON1 etc) do not keep a full-sized jpeg. They may keep a thumbnail, and a list of instructions that you used to edit the image. Next time you go to edit the file, it reapplies these. I certainly wouldn't recommend keeping full sized jpegs (or tiffs) along with RAW.
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Forum: Pentax K-70 & KF
04-18-2019, 05:41 PM
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Since you're shooting digital, for filters I'd just stick with the following
- A good Circular polarizer
- A good Neutral Density filter
- A Graduated ND filter
- A Soft Grad will be good if you're shooting with buildings/mountains in the scene
- A Hard Grad will be good if theres nothing on/near the horizon (like buildings, etc)
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Forum: Welcomes and Introductions
04-18-2019, 01:50 PM
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Welcome to the clubhouse!
Your combo will let you do a LOT of stuff. The 18-135 is what I take to the dog park or if I don't know what the day will bring. It's a solid performer.
If you want to dabble in old-school manual lenses, Pentax is hard to beat. Any K-series will work, and there are plenty of K and A 50mm lenses for cheap on Craigslist. You might need to buy some obsolete film era equipment to get them. ;)
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Forum: Pentax K-70 & KF
04-18-2019, 08:01 AM
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Yes, with fixed white balance and in-camera JPEG, one can do that. I tried it once for both JPEG and RAW, but was not happy with the results.
Edit: You might want to consider a new thread detailing your technique and providing examples. I am sure there will be good response and discussion.
Steve
(...does a lot of monochrome conversion...)
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Forum: Pentax K-70 & KF
04-18-2019, 04:58 AM
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I use a range of colored filters for monochrome photography as I would rather get the desired image in camera than fix it in post.
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Forum: Welcomes and Introductions
04-15-2019, 02:32 AM
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Hello and welcome to the Forum,doing this a little backwards, I responded to your other question about lens filters. Here is a recommendation (1 of 4) join this forum with a donation to get access to the "Buy & Sell Marketplace"
2: Read the review for your "New K-70"
3: Purchase the E-Book by Yvonn Bourque for the K-70
4: Enjoy,Enjoy Enjoy!:D
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Forum: Pentax K-70 & KF
04-15-2019, 03:05 AM
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I'm like the others that said that they don't use UV filters. I can understand the reasons for protection, but usually find that a lens hood gives plenty of protection from incidental bumps and any major contact would probably break through the UV filter anyway and damage the lens.
The filters I do use semi-regularly are polarizers (cutting reflections, bluing up the sky, bringing out colors in autumn scenes) and ND filters (for longer exposures). You certainly don't need them to start off with, but they can be helpful.
I would make one other comment which is to stay away from really cheap filters. You can buy Tiffen filters for 15 or 20 dollars, but they can really detract from your image -- typically will give a color cast, flare really easily, etc. Spending more money for a higher end filter from Hoya or B and W or Marumi is worth it in the long run. I've bought cheap filters in my time, but I only used them once or twice and ended up having to replace them with nicer filters.
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Forum: Pentax K-70 & KF
04-15-2019, 01:15 AM
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All has been said to your question concerning the filters. (I would not recommend to buy any a the start).
The question is, is there any other accessories we can recommend?
Basic accessories for me are a second battery, and a second SD-Card, a lens cleaning brush and cloth (I have a lenspen, you can get some more advice here in the forum).
Maybe a good camera strap.
The next thing I would recommend is to think about where to store and carry your camera. While not in use a bag is a good option to store and carry your equipment. I'am a bit unsure if I really should recommend one because, if you use your camera it will always be unprotected (i.e. you should always have an eye on it - that I can really recommend) and I myself do carry my camera in a rucksack when on hollyday (but would not recommend that). Ask about here in the forum and you will get plenty of recommendations here.
All other equipment depends on how an where you shoot. There would be to mention
- additional lenses (stay with yours a good time, it will do)
- a tripod (for low light static photography - at night or landscape) - a been bag or even your jacket and the top of a wall might help as well (keep a hand on your strap !)
- a flash (if you have to shoot a lot indoors I really would recommend that to you or a fast lens. A used flash might do it used in automatic mode (280 T)).
- some filters (if you are in landscape photography)
and so on. But there is an if and when for every additional piece.
I suggest, take your camera out and use it as often as you can and like it. Learning how to use your camera brings you further then most equipment.
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Forum: Pentax K-70 & KF
04-14-2019, 01:53 PM
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If you are as clumsy as I am, a UV filter protects the lens, and more importantly protects the threads at he end of the lens, from accidents. Alternately, I like the rubber collapsible lens hoods, they provide protection against dropping or bumps, and there are time when a hood is usefull.
Depending on where you live, or the subject you like to shoot, a circular polarizer filter is very handy. I also like having an Neutral Density filter if the day is extremely sunny but that is a preference and not a must-have.
Enjoy the 18-135 lens it is a great multipurpose lens, and is well represented here on PF
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Forum: Pentax K-70 & KF
04-14-2019, 02:39 PM
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I totally agree with Robski, just by putting a "UV" filter on your lens you have given it the protection from dust,scratches, damage to the lens coating and for bumps or worse a drop on the floor that would damage the lens threads. Also I clean my UV filter more and the lens itself rarely needs to be cleaned, thus lessening the chances of damaging the lens.
I choose Hoya filters as they are less expensive and have a good reputation, not very expensive to get a kit for the 18-135 with a "UV,ND,and CP" all together.
Pentax SMC DA 18-135mm F/3.5-5.6 ED AL (IF) DC WR Lens 21977 B&H
Check out the filter kits for your lens under accessories!
Hoya parent company
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Forum: Pentax K-70 & KF
04-14-2019, 02:41 PM
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Welcome to the forums, and congratulations on your incoming K-70! :D
Regarding UV filters... Some time back, I was a big fan of them for protecting my lenses. Many folks here told me they degraded image quality, and for a time I was adamant that they didn't. In many of my photos, they definitely didn't - at least, not that I could notice, and I'm picky. And then, I found that in some photos - just as my friends here warned me - they did affect IQ... and those photos were more-or-less ruined (compromised at the very least). If you have strong light sources in your scene - the sun, street lights, car headlights etc. - you can get flare and reflections that wouldn't be there without the filter. Plus, the way the filters are constructed and coatings applied can introduce strange artefacts that I've found particularly noticeable at longer focal lengths. But, used sparingly as and when needed, they can be helpful, IMHO. If I'm shooting in good weather and in a location where natural debris such as grit or sand won't likely get onto my lens, I shoot without a UV filter attached. But, if I'm shooting at the beach, or on a wet and windy day where I might want to frequently dry off or clean the front of the lens without taking proper precautions, I fit a UV filter for protection (and accept that there may be some compromises in the captured image quality)... that way, I can use a microfibre cloth (or even my shirt tail :p) to clean the front of the lens without worrying if there's something on it that could scratch the glass... and if it does, I'm only out the cost of a relatively cheap UV filter. I've had best results from Hoya HMC Slim UV filters...
As for other types... For most general shooting, you don't really need any. But, a CPL (circular polarising) filter can be useful for removing reflections in glass and water, or emphasising blue skies, though it only works if you're shooting at certain angles to the light source, and isn't advised at wide angles due to inconsistent effect across the field of view. An ND filter can be useful too, if you wish to perform longer exposures on bright, sunny days - for example, if you want to create a smoother appearance to flowing water. Something like a 4 or 6 stop ND might be a good starting point.
As has already been suggested, cheap filters aren't a good idea. There's no point in sticking cheap, uncoated Chinese glass (or, worse still, plastic) in front of your nice, high performance lens. Your system is only as good as the weakest link in the chain. That said, you don't need to spend hundreds of dollars. Since I don't use filters that often, I'm happy to stick with relatively-low-cost major brands like Hoya, Marumi, Tiffen etc. If you're really getting into regular filter use, though, there are specialist brands that can be much better - but considerably pricier :o
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Forum: Pentax K-70 & KF
04-14-2019, 11:34 AM
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YES!!! And don't fall for aftermarket hoods claiming compatibility. More often then not, both fit and utility are poor. Get the Pentax and be happy.
Steve
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