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Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2
09-07-2021, 05:56 PM
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More than 14000 shots with my K-s2, equipped with its original green solenoid!
More than 6000 failless ABF shots of the green solenoid after intervening and repairing the diaphragm control.
This camera had the first 7000 non-fault shots ABF.
1000 shots in the period of investigation and isolation of the fault.
6000 shots from the intervention of the ABF faultless opening aperture block control.
I am very happy with the consistent operation of my K-s2.
I attach one of the last photographs taken in the Sierras of Córdoba, Argentina.
Attentive greetings
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Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2
07-28-2020, 04:00 PM
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Dear MarcusBMG.
I would like to greet you.
Attached an explanatory photograph of itself, where it is clarified where the excess copper washer goes.
It is important to place it, because this will prevent deformations on the lower cover, and will provide proper operation of the battery cover, and a correct seal of all insulating joints.
I hope it's useful.
Greetings
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Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2
07-19-2020, 04:41 PM
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Hello Pentaxforum community!
My Ks2 camera continues to work perfectly, even in very cold climates.
The original green solenoid works wonders, which confirms that the problem in my camera was caused by the electromechanical command of the diaphragm control according to everything developed in this thread.
It was useful to study the responsibility of the solenoid in this type of failure and to be able to determine the relation between electrical pulses and mechanical energies of the springs.
It is important to note that the duration of the electric pulse is determined by the diaphragm control and not by how quickly the solenoid is unlocked.
The correct way to test the solenoid dynamically is by applying the force exerted on the Plunguer by the crossbow spring of the ancora.
With this force applied in the test, a pulse of less than 10 msec. Release the green Plunguer.
I clarify this because in post expicated in discussion threads of the K30/50 cameras, on May 31, 2020 it is said that a green solenoid can take 100 msec to unlock using 7.2 volts.
That can't be.
If that were my Ks2, it wouldn't work.
Please reread the post #47, where you can observe that the tension (volt) applied to the green solenoid are in the order of 2.5 volts, and it decouples smoothly. You can verified that.
I attach a photo taken lately with my Ks2, Plata mountain, 6300 mts snm, near my city of Mendoza.
Greetings
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Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2
07-03-2020, 03:26 PM
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Unfortunately, I do not take pictures of the process, nothing more than those necessary to reference the wiring connection of the camera.
It is very simple to assemble engineering and can be observed without further difficulty.
The guide I wrote the post #76 is quite clear about the difficulties they encountered.
I hope everything's useful.
Greetings
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Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2
06-27-2020, 06:31 PM
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Estimated Swanleffite
In Live view mode, while the camera is being used to display and measure with the Mid-Race trigger button, the diaphragm should be kept at f4 if the lens's east focal length is between 18 mm and 24 mm. Approx. With larger focal lengths, the aperture opens to the maximum available aperture on the lens. At least this happens on my KS2 with my telezoom 18 – 135.
This function is programmed in the system and makes it possible to have a display with good lighting and that the sensor can measure and determine focus and amount of light.
I have a 28 mm f 2.8 lens with position A, and this in Live view places the diaphragm approx in f4. I believe that the software available on the camera determines the values of the diaphragm for Live view as long as the camera has the electronic identification of the lens.
When you shoot in Live view, the mirror tops, then goes down, goes up again to open the curtain and expose the sensor to the given exposure time, then go down to complete the cycle and re-up to re-enable Live view. If you look through the viewfinder while shooting in Live view, you can see the moments when the mirror is low and identify the times.
If the diaphragm closes to maximum f when you turn on Live view, you're having trouble. It can be the solenoid or it can be the swich of the diaphragm control. Now if the solenoid passes the test I suggested in post 47, then you have to think about the swich of the diaphragm control.
The solenoid only receives a pulse of voltage at a certain time, after the microprocessor receives the swich signal from the diaphragm block, to produce the correct f, by releasing the ancora and stopping the diaphragm closure at the correct value. The solenoid will never receive a continuous pulse.
Waiting for this to clarify the subject a little
Best Regards
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Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2
06-22-2020, 04:32 PM
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It has been a month of starting my KS2, after repairing the swich of diaphragm control (post #64 and 67), and after taking about 260 photographs there have been no dark photos due to diaphragm control failure (green solenoid included).
I also did a test to leave the camera for a week without using it, to check the time to make the first shot and it worked smoothly.
The repair and isolated of the fault was successful.
Too bad Photogem that he has not performed the physical assay of a Japanese solenoid, because this other does not consider what differences there are and fortify the conclusions of the thread.
Let's go to the green solenoid theme to understand how it works and make it clear that after passing the proposed test this will be reliable.
The solenoid is a very simple electrical machine that is designed to perform only two functions:
1) Lock the Plunger (keep it glued to the magnet's magnetic circuit)
2) Unlock the Plunger (by sending a DC voltage pulse to its coils, which cancels the magnet's magnetic field)
The responsibility to remove the Plunger (exit stroke) is from the crossbow spring that assists the lever of the anchor (Ancora).
The responsibility for introducing the Plunger (entry stroke) is a cam mounted on the penultimate gear of the diaphragm control that acts on the lever of the anchor (Ancora) and causes the magnet to lock the Plunger again.
In my post #47 considers the physic evaluation of the two functions.
Static, evaluates the solenoid's ability to keep the Plunger glued, checking how much weight it can withstand.
The dynamics, evaluates the ability of the solenoid to override the magnetic field of the magnet, verifying that: loading the Plunger with a weight equivalent to the effort made by the crossbow of the anchor (ancora) lever (30 grams), applying an instantaneous voltage pulse of 2.5 volt this decouple. This voltage is the minimum that will exist in the camera, if your entire voltage pulse generation system is in order.
Logically, that the solenoid for our Pentax cameras KS2, must have an ohmic resistance of 29 ohm and have the matching physical dimensions for assembly.
By doing this test and repeating it a reasonable number of times (say 20 times), we will conclude that, if the solenoid never fails, we can rate it as good and reliable for use.
Whoever does this test will verify, that any solenoid, supplied in a Pentax camera, will mostly pass this test, and one may conclude, that the quality of plastics, metals, magnets and the winding of solenoids supplied by Ricoh, does not influence their behavior.
Only damage to the reels of the coils, in the coils, oxidation in the metals that make up it or the presence of iron files in the Plunger displacement guides, will be able to alter the results of this examination. These would be the only reasons for changing the solenoid.
Attach a terminology graph and description of the components mentioned for a better understanding.
I also attach the last photo, similar to the first after repair, taken in AUTO mode, where the entire camera system is tested.
Best Regards
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Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2
04-03-2020, 08:03 AM
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Dear Photogem.
Thank you for your opinion.
Now to end the problem of dark photos I must communicate the following to the Pentaxforum community:
To my post #29 I must add the following observation:
Repeat: the mechanism of the diaphragm control block is 90% analog and electromechanical and only 10% digital (counter of the windows of the exhaust wheel). It is for this reason that the new Pentax cameras have changed the diaphragm control block to a team commanded by a stepper motor. Many components that can be failed are saved.
The electromechanical mechanism of our K30/Ks2 is commanded by an electric motor, which puts in motion in 1/5.5 sec, a complex and heavy gear train and a pair of cams that move the diaphragm lens and mirror; which consume a much higher electrical power than the solenoid consumes.
Engine and solenoid operating times are synchronized by the switch mounted on one of the diaphragm control gears.
When the lubrication of the switch gets old and gets dirty, its contacts begin to introduce interference and electrical noises, in addition the lubrication of the cams and gears suffer the same aging producing the increase in consumption of the electric motor.
These two problems cause the diaphragm control to start to fail and take dark photos, as we explained.
The diaphragm control of my KS2 is in the 9500 shots and this new one.
The green solenoid is intact, clean and as the factory throws it. I took out the graphite, the supplements and proceeded to lubricate the Doaphram control block as follows and in this order:
1. The switch area, clean it with a powerful degreasing spray, and then place an efficient contact lubricant, for high precision equipment. Of which I add the link below.
2. Cams and gear train, with an aerosol developed for printer maintenance, from which I add the link below.
The lubricant has a teflonated base that dries and produces effective lubrication of plastic components.
Regarding the most demanding test that can be performed on a diaphragm control block, it is:
1. Assemble an old 50 mm SMC PENTAX-M type lens, f 1.2; 1.4 or 1.7. These lenses have very large and heavy diaphragms because of their large size. They require a lot of energy to be able to move them. Logic should be in good maintenance and with its clean, lubricated and free movements)
2. Place the camera in M mode
3. Activate the opening ring in C4 menu (28 using opening ring)
4. Select aperture 22 on the lens selection ring
5. Place the camera in LV molding (the mirror is raised and the lens should open its diaphragm to the maximum (1.2; 1.4;or 1.7))
6. Trigger the exposure measurement mode with the green button
7. At that time the diaphragm should be closed to f22 during the exposure time that the processor Determined. (try to do this operation in a dimly lit place so that the exposure time is more or less long)
8. At the end of the exposure calculation the diaphragm must be opened to the maximum again for the LV to be bright. If the diaphragm at the end of the measurement time closes to 22 and remains closed, there is a problem with the lens or diaphragm control.
The equipment then needs to be verified and proceed with its maintenance in case of using these objectives.
Normally with DA type lenses there are no problems because they are more modern and their movements are much lighter and require less energy for their operation.
This maintenance should be carried out logically by qualified persons and I estimate year by year before winter begins.
I think the people of Ricoh know this and that's what they do in their services.
It is important to recognize that cameras with this system are cheaper and for this reason they have components that present these systematic problems, but they also have a degree of equipment and characteristics that distinguishes them from the teams of the competition.
Hoping to have collaborated with a lot of people.
Best Regards
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Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2
06-24-2020, 03:26 PM
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Complying with Photogem's desire in the post #73, attached a guide for dismantling the diaphragm control block.
This operation is very complex, and requires a high rating to perform the welds of the circuits that are involved.
50 welding joints must be disoldered and then rewelded with eco-friendly welding alloys, which require 10 to 20% more heat than conventional Tin Lead alloys, which significantly raises the qualification of the labor. There are critical solder joints on the motherboard and on the shutter curtain and bock control plate of the diaphragm control.
There is also another complex operation which is the reset the sensor registration distance (because it is absolutely necessary to disassemble the K-mount ring).
For this it is necessary to have comparators that are able to measure the hundredth of a millimeter, a guaranteed flat marble, cylindrical supplements of proven measures to enable measurement, and the most complex to perform the measurement procedure that guarantees the positioning of the sensor.
If this operation is not guaranteed, the camera will never bring infinity focus.
Anyone who ventures into this operation should thoroughly read some workshop manual from a similar camera. (I use the workshop manual of an IST camera), which describe the process very well and are on the internet.
For KS2, the surface disarm process given by Photogem is correct.
After disassembling the camera housing, the top cover must be disassembled. (there are 9 welds and a molex connector for this disassembly)
Then disassemble the back cover and display (two molex connectors and 4 screws)
Then disassemble the mother board. (nine molex connectors of different types, 26 welded joints, and four screws
Then disassemble the battery case (two flash capacitor welds, 6 curtain control welds, 4 FCC circuit diaphragm control welds, and 6 screws)
Then disassemble the K-mount ring and lock lens, trying to respect the mounting supplements, to reuse them in the assembly. (5 ring screws and one of the lens lock)
Then disassemble the diaphragm control block. (4 screws and 6 welds, 4 of the pulse counter, an 2 of the solenoid)
Verification of all parts, contacts and cleaning of all components, lubrication and reverse mounting of the diaphragm control.
Checking and correcting the registration distance, final assembly, testing and closing of the housing.
As you can see it is a very complex operation with two critical operations that determine the quality of the work; welding and checking the registration distance.
Attached some photos indicating the main screws for the disassembly of the battery box.
I hope you're a good guide.
Greetings
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Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2
05-20-2020, 02:47 PM
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Dear Swanlefitte:
Thank you for your recognition:
Yes, the trial time is short. I've only taken 100 photos after the diaphragm control intervention.
I don't miss any. Either way, the noise generated by diaphragm control feels soft and safe. You can tell it looked good!
As always, I will keep the community informed about how this camera works.
The four brushes of the mirror position detector switch are mounted on a metal bridge on the last wheel gearbox of the diaphragm control. It's mean, they have electrical continuity.
Two of them rub on a 360-degree of the contact disc. This disc is connected to negative potential of the camera circuit.
The other two brushes, rub over three sectors, which correspond one to the sector where the mirror is in the race of ascent, another that corresponds to where it is above, and another in the sector of the downhill race. Each of these sectors produces two pulses of negative potential. One short and one long.
It is so fast the movement of this gear, containing the brush, that, if they do not discharge enough pressure on discs, and sectors will not provide the negative electrical signal in adequate time and intensity, producing the lack of energy and lack of synchronization that will deceive to the electronic SCR that sends the signal to the solenoid.
On my camera, one of the brushes of the sectors, never touch the driving areas, and the other three had barely marked their career on discs and sectors. They could barely follow and overcome the small lack of flatness (normal for their construction) of the support of the rubbing areas.
As soon as these brushes gathered some dirt, and they found the old lubricant started the failure. It is for this reason that the fault begins with the first take.
Once the brushes move they start working, but this is an unstable situation that will end in an almost chronic failure.
Unfortunately, getting to this brush is a complicated task, it requires dismantling the mother board, and the K mounting ring of the lens, so then you have to guarantee the registration distance of the sensor.
Precision instrumentation is needed to recalibrate the sensor and then do quality testing to ensure the work is ok.
Finding technical services that comply with these routines is difficult, and surely the official services do not do this maintenance, because the amount of man hours that is needed, and the supposed spare parts, is not amortized against the cost of a new body.
I did well with the intervention, because I did not suffer any accidents, I had the marble and comparators to recalibrate the sensor and thank God the constant correction of the sensor was stamped on its electronic plate, which allowed me to make the decision to disassemble the ring and reach the brushes. Without this data the intervention is impossible.
All of this I believe will help more than one technical service and logically users who will be able to have more authority over budgets and diagnostics.
Best Regards.
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Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2
12-31-2019, 03:06 PM
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Hello Pentaforum community:
I am Sergio González Pagliara, from Argentina, electromechanical engineer, postgraduate degree in welding and amateur of photography.
Always admire Asahi Pentax's technology and achieve my first Asahi Pentax ME equipment in 1978. Use it intensively until 2005 without any problems in your electronic exposure system. This equipment featured Asahi Pentax 1:7 lenses and an Vivitar 75-205 telezoom, which still work perfectly today.
I entered digital photography in 2005, with various cameras until finally in October 2015 I decided to have a reflex system again. Having optics in good condition, I decided on a Pentax KS 2 equipped with a DA 18-135 Pentax telezoom, which at the time was a good economic/technical option to re-enter good photography and in passing be able to use the old optics.
Everything went well with the KS 2 until August 2019 and with 7000 shots when the diaphragm opening problems or dark photographs began. At first occasional and then it was aggravated to almost impossible its operation.
So I started researching at Pentaforum and found a Photogem post where it describes the history of the development of solenoids applied in Pentax machines. Here's the link for anyone who wants to read it.
A LITTLE BIT OF HISTORY: Development of the solenoid in Pentax cameras - PentaxForums.com
What struck me most is that the main constructive difference between the green solenoid (Chinese) and the old white solenoid (Japanese) is the construction of the reel. PET green, cheaper material and PTEF white, more expensive Teflon material. This led me to think of some considerations regarding the operation of the solenoid:
a) The PET reel increases the coefficient of rubbing of the Plunguer inside the reel when moving.
b) Batteries after 4 years of use have lost efficiency and their voltage decreases rapidly after being recharged (there are many reviews that using good quality AA batteries on the K50, problem is controlled)
c) The material with which the magnet body is built and the Plunguer himself may have gained some magnetism after many cycles
These three considerations led me to try to control the first. For this I obtained a Teflon-based lubricant (PTEF) which I applied only to the PET reel. The consequence was that the opening Block directly stopped working. When the lubricant is passed to the Contact Mirrors of the Plunguer and magnet body, they are glued by surface tension and viscosity of the lubricant, and the diaphragm was always closed.
In the face of this result, disassemble the solenoid of the camera again, disassemble its parts and whit isopropilic alcohol clean the two reels internally, the magnet body and the Plunguer.
When I reassembled the camera at first its walked well, but after two or three days without using it, its took dark photos again in the first few shots.
This led me to believe that the pulse of electric current sent by the camera does not last more than 1/5 of a second, as the opening block is designed to reach a speed of up to 5 shots per second. If the batteries are already weakened, the rubbing coefient is high, and there is suspicion of remaining magnetisms in the metals, there is no other left for the solenoid to stick and as a result the closed diaphragm. From this reasoning is that some forum participants suggest beveling the edges of the Plunguer and decreasing the area of contact with the magnet body, so that the effects of the three listed causes can be lessened.
Already about to proceed to vary the geometry of the Plunguer, I thought I'd use a solid lubricant. It was a coincidence that on my workbench it had graphite powder for the lubrication of locks. Place a very small amount of fine graphic powder inside each reel, and with a small brush I scrub the Plunguer with this graphite. Mount the solenoid and the camera hasn't failed again. (it is very important to keep the cleaning of the reels and solenoid metals. The fat of the fingers can cause problems)
I have almost 1500 shots after this solid lubrication and the solenoid is doing wonders with a very smooth and safe operation.
The following reasoning may apply:
Graphite decreases the coefficient of pet friction, forms a thin separating layer in the mirrors of the Plunguer and magnet body, which improves or decreases the attraction force that can be generated by the eventual magnetism of the metals. This improvement makes even with weakened batteries the solenoid operates and allows the opening block system to select the diaphragm opening obtained by the processor.
Graphite powder from the soft mine of an HB pencil can be easily obtained.
Logically you should be very thorough in the welding procedures of the cables, observe that the graphite is used in the amount necessary so that it does not contaminate other camera devices, observe the correct alignment of the Plunguer with the rest of the solenoid and the lever of the opening block and ensure that the polarity of the magnet and/or cables is correct.
I'll allow myself to use some Photogem photos to define the names of each part of the solenoid.
My native language is Spanish. I apologize to the community for my little Englishman. I wrote the text in Spanish and translated it into English with an automatic translator. Then correct this translation so that it can be understood.
I hope it will help many to repair their camera at no higher cost and confirm that Pentax is perhaps the best camera on the market.
Best Regards and Happy 2020.
Sergio Gonzalez Pagliara
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Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2
04-07-2020, 08:27 AM
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Dear Community and Dear Photogem
First your concern is not minor.
That's why I ask you and the whole community too, information about the parting, (photos, draws, specifications) of the diaphragm control. It would be very useful to also get the technical specification of each of the bearings that Photogem reports that there is in the diaphragm control.
This will allow us to properly select the lubricant.
In my thread #28, which must be read and interpreted in detail, I asked the community to investigate what type of lubricant Ricoh uses in diaphragm control.
In the absence of a response, I decided to apply a line of Argentine-made products, which I use successfully in the maintenance of orbital welding equipment, (true marvel of micro engineering, applied to welding high responsibility pipes in the nuclear industry) (nothing to do with a sewing machine!!)
Add datasheets of the same in the #35 thread.
It is for all this that I always suggested that this intervention should be done by qualified personnel.
Waiting for quick response.
Greetings
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Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2
01-21-2020, 06:43 AM
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Dear Pentaforum Community.
As promised, I report how my KS 2 continues to work. (lubricated solenoid with graphite in November 2019)
This weekend we made an approximation to the Aconcagua hill, in Mendoza, Argentina, and ascended to 4000 meters. above sea level to enjoy the view of the south wall of this Andean colosso that is almost 7000 meters high above sea level.
Take approximately 80 photos, in a fairly aggressive environment.
Use the automatic mode a lot, as the physical conditions at that height are extreme, to reach the viewpoint of the hill you have to walk 10 hours from the entrance to the park and climb approximately 1500 meters.
I do not miss any photograph, so the tendency of good functioning of the solenoid is so good.
Yesterday I checked and cleaned the camera, after this adventure and found no graphite residue anywhere. Nor in the mirror camera that is connected to the solenoid camera through the mounting of the aperture block.
Attached 4 photos taken, 2 at Plaza Francia, the last base camp of Shouth wall of Aconcagua and 2 at Confluencia the first base camp of The Aconcagua.
I hope this will work!
Greetings to the whole community.
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Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2
01-11-2020, 04:37 PM
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Dear Photogem:
A real pleasure to talk to you and exchange ideas! I must thank you and congratulate you on the beautiful reports on the history and quality of the solenoids. These reports made it possible for me to fully understand the problem of the solenoid. I don't understand how Ricoh hasn't taken precautions on this very common failure.
It is not in question that the best solution is to replace the green solenoid with one of Japanese origin (white). It's the best solution.
The problem is that, in places like Argentina, we are a long way from the big Pentax markets, which is why it makes us very complicated and expensive to get these types of spare parts. There are almost no Pentax disused cameras in this market. That's why I set out to investigate how to try to make the green solenoid walk consistently and safely, without intervening in its geometry and components.
Initially research with Teflon-based lubricants, but it was a failure as I explained in another thread. But by chance I saw a glass of graphite on my workbench and thought of solid lubrication. Make it work from one solenoid, after failure with other lubricants.
Now let's move on to certain considerations about graphite. As you say it is used for the manufacture of brushes of powerful and fast universal motors (with collector). This is no coincidence. Graphite apart from being a large electric conductor is the one that shows the least coefficient of friction that rotates at impressively large tangential speeds. This means that you have to provide graphite (brush wear) that is gathered in powder inside the motor cavities. This does not affect the operation of the engine at all, as this is planned and is maintained every time the brushes are worn.
But this app is not comparable with including graphite in the solenoid. For we will proceed has done a treatment with graphite for a single time to the inner surface of the reel and to the rubbing surface of the Plunguer and in such a small amount so that the graphite has to be inserted into the microstructure of the PET of the reel and the material of l Plunguer. (Sorry if I don't explain this in detail in another post)
Put by comparison, it's like when we write with a graphite pencil on paper. Graphite is introduced into the paper microstructure and remains there for a long time, can even withstand large frictions on the paper even liquids and remain in the microstructure. Broadly speaking, this is the concept of solid lubrication, widely used in state-of-the-art machines, including in the aerospace industry, introducing graphite, molybdenum sulfide or hexagonal boron nitride, also called white graphite.
We will not delve into the subject of solid lubrication, because whoever wants to do it there are fascinating internet posts about this system.
As for how to apply graphite to the solenoid so that the virus effect you mention does not occur, the following should be done:
1) Disassemble the solenoid, without disassembling the magnet holder.
2) Disassemble the magnet, marking its position to preserve its magnetic polarity.
3)Include a very small amount of graphite (equivalent to 0.5 m2) inside each reel of the reels. Or the tip of a 0.5 mm wide flat screwdriver)
4) With the Plunguer insert and remove it from the reels several times by pressing on all contact surfaces between the PET and the Plunguer. This action will cause graphite to be introduced into the macro and microstructure of the PET
5) Once operation 4 is complete, extract the traces of graphite from the reel cavities with compressed air at low pressure. (with the use of a cleaning pear is sufficient)
6) Place a small amount of graphite on a piece of paper propped on a glass and forcefully scrub the Plunguer against the graphite so as to insert it into its structure.
7)Blow the Plunguer to remove traces of graphite powder.
8) Treated the two pieces, reels and Plunguer.
9) assemble the solenoid using tweezers (do not touch the Plunguer with your fingers after treatment. Mount the solenoid in the camera.
As for the Diamagnetic property of graphite, I have tested with a magnet equal to the one that mounts the solenoid, and the magnetic flux of the magnet is not able to levitate even the smallest of the graphite grains. Diamagnetism is so small that it presents no problems. Moreover when the coil is unexciting (without applied current) the magnetic circuit of the magnet is closed and the traces of graphite (if any) will tend to stick to the PET of the reels. When the coil is excited, it cancels the magnetic flow of the magnet and the graphite should travel to the place that has the least magnetic flux, which is the gap between the magnet holder and the Plunguer. So the free graphite (if any) would always remain inside the solenoid.
I have checked the inside of my KS2 and can assure you that no contamination has occurred, and it has been in use for more than three months, and has not presented any diaphragm failure and in any mechanism inside the cavity where it is mounted on solenoid.
In the spirit of helping the community and being able to solve this problem in a very simple and cost-effective way.
Best Regards
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Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2
01-10-2020, 05:51 AM
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Good morning Pentaforum community:
Today I write to thank you for welcoming the group, and inform you that my Pentak K S2 continues to work wonders, after subjecting the solenoid to solid lubrication treatment with graphite.
Anyone who is encouraged to perform the operation has no doubt in doing so with the precautions I describe, as it makes it possible to reuse the original solenoid of the camera, which has been electrically, magnetically and mechanically designed to assist the operture block of our Pentax cameras. (the solenoids of other devices, they look the same, but they are different in these three aspects). With this we maintain the originality of our equipment.
Attached are photographs that I take’s with my K S2, of the South of Argentine, taken in Lake Huechulafquen in December 2019, with the lubrication of the solenoid with graphite made in November 2019, and with approx. 1000 shots made without any failures.
I take this opportunity to greet you and wish you very happy 2020.
Sergio Gonzalez Pagliara
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