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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
05-01-2023, 03:30 PM
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I was about to pull the trigger on a used Metz 48 AF-1 but wanted to make sure I could find the manual first. Most of the reviews on this flash indicate that you need the manual to figure out the complex menus.
I was surprised that Metz exited the Flash business in 2021.
Is there a source for the manuals and just as important firmware updates?
Maybe that's why the asking price of the one I'm looking at is so good.
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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
05-01-2023, 03:03 PM
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Yes, you are correct, I had a senior dyslexic moment, I labeled the pins from the camera hotshoe orientation.
I just fixed my error in post #6 above. Thanks for pointing that out.
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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
05-01-2023, 08:46 AM
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Sorry, but my first hand experience is different than your assumption. Do you have a Vivitar 550FD?
On each of my K's the K20D, K30 and now the K5 iis, with the flash in A1 or A2 and the camera on P or M, the recommended F stop shown in the 550FD window is duplicated on the camera.
For example with the Flash and Camera both set to ISO 400. The flash set to A1 and the 550FD window shows f4. Turn the camera on in P or M mode and the aperture moves to F4, automatically, no intervention on my part.
Switch the 550FD to A2, windows shows f8, and the camera aperture automatically shifts to f8. This is the behavior on all my K bodies.
To further verify this behavior, shift the ISO down to 100 on both the 550FD and the camera. Lens on the camera has a max of f 3.5. 550FD A1 mode calls for f 2. The camera automatically opens as wide as it can f3.5. Shift the 550FD to A2 which calls for f4, the camera then shifts to f4, again with no intervention on my part.
Agreed that this is not TTL metering. The flash exposure is being controlled by the sensor from the 550FD auto thyristor flash sensor. But it does communicate the f stop to the camera.
I didn't come up with this myself, I read it on another thread here on the forums.
---------- Post added 05-01-2023 at 12:01 PM ----------
These are the seven pins on the Vivitar 550FD.
The 4 pins tagged in yellow are the Pentax pins.
Tagged in red: upper Right is the Olympus Quench? The two on the bottom are for Minolta. None of these pins tagged in red come in contact with anything on the Pentax K hotshoes.
I put a piece of tape over the pin tagged in yellow 'data' which allows the 550FD to function on the K5 iis.
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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
04-30-2023, 09:53 PM
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I've had a Vivitar 550FD M/P/O flash for awhile and checked trigger voltage (7v) is safe for K digital bodies.
I've read that with a K series body set to Program (P), and the 550FD flash in Auto 1 or Auto 2 mode the flash will communicate the F stop to the camera and set it.
It works on my K20D and my K30 and does a very good job of getting the exposure correct as long as the ISO on the flash and the camera are set to the same value. It even works with the camera in M mode, where you can then set the shutter speed to whatever, as long as it's at or below the x-sync speed.
However when I tried the 550FD flash on my K5 iis it was hit and miss. Most of the time it didn't fire the flash, sometimes it worked correctly, and other times it fired the flash along with the widest aperture and slow shutter speed resulting in blown out photos.
I noticed a red icon flashing on the bottom row of the camera screen, just to the right of the JPEG quality stars. It only flashes when the 550FD flash is mounted.
I had to refer to the instruction manual for a description of what that icon means. It's an indicator for the optional O-GPS1 unit. The 550FD is dedicated (TTL) for Minolta Pentax and Olympus. There are 7 pins, 4 of which line up with the K body hotshoe contacts.
A pinout diagram indicates that the contact closest to the front of the camera is labeled 'digital'. I took a guess that this one is causing the problem. I taped over that corresponding pin on the 550FD flash so it doesn't make contact. Voila! Now it works as it should.
It doesn't come into play on the K20D or K30 as they are not compatible with GPS devices.
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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
04-30-2023, 07:47 PM
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I want to thank everyone that contributed to this thread. I didn't know my AF360FGZ (v.1) could be set up as an optical slave, I thought it was only wireless with a Pentax camera or another Pentax p-TTL flash. In addition to the AF360FGZ, I have some older Auto thyristor flashes; Vivitar 550FD, Toshiba ES30, Soligor MK-32A.
The Vivitar 550FD is 'dedicated' to Minolta/Pentax/Olympus and has 7 pins on the shoe mount. It's supposedly compatible with TTL, but not p-TTL.
I came across this thread while searching for a slave flash trigger, like a Wein Peanut, but one that will differentiate between a single flash and a p-TTL pre-flash.
So now that I know the AF360FGZ can be set up as an optical slave I tried some tests using my K5iis.
I set the AF-360FGZ in Slave Mode 2 all by itself on a tripod, mounted the Vivitar 550FD on the K5iis and it works as an optical master to fire the AF360FGZ ... but hit and miss.
I'm pretty sure that's the fault of the Vivitar 550FD. It has 7 pins, the 4 pins for Pentax dedication, but additional pins to allow dedication to Minolta and Olympus. There are 4 mode settings on the 550FD TTL, A1, A2, and M (Manual). If I set the A1 or A2 mode and then set the K body to (P) Program mode and the corresponding ISO matched to the 550FD it will automatically set F-stop on the camera to match the 550FD. But, hit and miss. I think maybe any little movement of the flash on the hotshoe causes the little dedication pins to slip off the correct contact point on the camera's hotshoe. (BTW the 550FD has a trigger voltage of 7v so it's safe for the K5iis)
Next up, I tried the Soligor MK-32A on the K5iis, but since this one has 36v trigger voltage, I connected it via a PC sync cable. With the Soligor MK-32A in one of the 4 auto modes, K5iis in M mode, AF-360FGZ in Auto, Slave 2, and everything to the same ISO and F-stop, shutter speed anything less than X-sync speed (1/180th) I get consistently nice exposures. The Soligor flash head can swivel vertically and horizontally for bounce flash. When using bounce, I opened the camera aperture half a stop and got consistently nice exposures.
This has been quite a revelation to be able to use the AF360FGZ as an optical slave. It really adds depth to photos that seemed flat when just using an on camera flash.
Thanks again.
EDIT:
I discovered the problem I was having with the Vivitar 550FD on a K5 iis. The Vivitar data pin (closest to the front of the camera) is not compatible with the K5 iis. However the 550FD flash does function correctly on my K20D and K30. For whatever reason, the k5 iis thinks there is a GPS device attached to the hotshoe, which apparently communicates through the front most pin on the hotshoe. I noticed a red flashing GPS icon at the bottom of the K5 iis camera screen every time I attached the 55FD flash to it. I taped over that corresponding pin on the Vivitar 550FD and now it functions properly on the K5 iis. On older Pentax cameras I assume that Pin had something to do with TTL functionality. But since none of my K body cameras have TTL capabilities there is no harm in insulating that data pin.
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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
04-27-2023, 10:11 AM
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Correct, I'm not saying the sync lead from the flash unit has a different voltage at all. It is probably the same voltage as the voltage at the hotshoe of the flash unit. What I'm saying is that the Pentax K bodies that have a PC sync socket supposedly have high voltage protection at the PC sync socket that is not present on the K body hotshoe. At least this is what I have read in other posts.
The K20D and K5 ii(s) have PC sync sockets while the K30 does not.
The Toshiba ES-30 Auto Flash definitely does not have a voltage difference between hotshoe and PC sync. I took the foot apart to unjam the center pin of the hotshoe. Somehow it was jammed in and wouldn't make contact with the camera body's hotshoe center contact point. The Toshiba sync connector to the flash unit has the normal male electrical contact pin along with a flat tapered pin. The taper of the flat pin lifts a lever inside the lower body of the flash that in turn lifts the center hotshoe pin of the flash, thus not allowing it to make contact with the camera's hot shoe. This allows mounting of the flash on the body in the manner of a cold shoe while using the PC Sync connector.
Next time I have the Soligor MK-32A out I will attempt to take a measurement from the PC sync cable. But I'm quite sure there will be no difference from the voltage at the hotshoe.
Edit: Here is one of the sources for the 'assumption' that the Pentax K Bodies have high voltage protection at the PC sync socket:
You Tube
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src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/fZlVEe2y9e4?controls=1" allowfullscreen>
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It is a review of the Pentax K20D by Pentax USA Product Manager, John Carlson. Towards the end of the video (6:55) he talks about the addition of a PC sync socket that was not present on the K10D. He states that the socket has special circuitry built into the camera to protect from over voltage damage from studio lights. Although he doesn't specifically say that the 'special circuitry' is different from that at the hotshoe, it seems to be implied. Then of course, he doesn't define what 'high voltage' is either.
And to add to the confusion, the OP of this thread https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/125-flashes-lighting-studio/87679-flash-...al-answer.html quotes a Pentax source saying that max trigger voltage is 380v. But it's not clear to me if that is in reference to the Hotshoe, the PC sync socket or both.
For reference, my DMM is a digital multi meter with 10Mohm input impedance. I may check these again using my Tektronix 2236 scope that has an inbuilt DMM.
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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
04-26-2023, 05:14 PM
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I know I'm late to the party, but just came across this thread and thought that I would add my 4 flash results.
Measurements with a Cen-Tech P37772 DMM (Input Imped. 10 MegaOhm)
Each flash measured with 4 freshly charged Energizer 2300 mAh NiMH AA batteries (Measured at 1.4v each)
(1) For reference I measured the Pentax AF-360FGZ = 2.9v
(2) Vivitar 550FD (M/P/O) GN 80' (ISO 100) = 6.8v
(3) Toshiba ES-30 Auto Flash GN 98' (ISO 100) = 29.0v
(4) Soligor MK-32A Auto Flash GN 105' (ISO 100) = 36.0v
Cameras: Pentax K20D, Pentax K30, Pentax K5 ii(s).
Notes:
I found a Soligor MK-32A AutoThyristor Flash in SalArmy the other day for $1.00. Brand new, in the box, never used. Which prompted me to do some research and start taking measurements.
I already had the Toshiba ES-30, but only used it via the included PC sync cable. You don't need a bracket attachment as the proprietary Toshiba sync cable raises the hotshoe pin away from the contact point on the camera's shoe. After reading this and several other posts I decided to first try it direct to the hotshoe on my oldest camera, K20D. No problem.
Then I tried it on my K30. No Problems.
Today I got really daring and tried it on my K5 ii(s). No problems.
In searching around my Camera gear I found a Vivitar 550FD (TTL dedicated pins for Minolta/Pentax/Olympus). No risk at 6.8v. None of my K's recognize TTL, only P-TTL, but there is some automation available with the Vivitar set in one of the 2 Auto modes. With any K body set to P (Program Mode) the F stop is communicated to and sets the camera aperture accordingly.
My last test was with the Soligor MK-32A measuring at 36v.
No issues with K20D, K30, and K5 ii(s).
I took about a dozen shots with each flash on each camera. I really like the results from the Soligor MK-32A, but since that one also came with a PC sync cable, I will probably no longer connect it directly to the hotshoes after today's trials.
X-sync speed on the K bodies is 1/180th seconds. But with the Auto flashes I found best results with the Cameras in M mode, speed at 1/125 and F stop according to the dials on the flash units when set to the same ISO as the camera. 1/180th shutter speeds yielded underexposed results.
I have found my Pentax AF-360FGZ to inconsistently under expose, more so on the K20D and K30 (using P-TTL mode).
No recommendations should be implied from my results. I'm just adding my data to this poll.
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
03-13-2022, 10:08 AM
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This morning I realized that I haven't used my K-30 in sometime, maybe 2 or 3 months as my wife was going through a terrible health crisis that required brain surgery in January.
Thank God that was successful and we are getting back to normal. Anyhow I got the K30 out and took some quick shots fully expecting the dark exposure Poltergeist to have returned due to lack of use.
But to my pleasant surprise it's still working fine.
Terrible composition on this photo, Exif: Pentax K-50 (It's actually a K-30 but I did the hack to bring it up to the K-50 firmware), Av mode, F7.1, ISO 400, Pentax SMC DA !:4 16-45mm ED-AL Lens, 24mm, on board flash.
No post processing except to resize, just to show it still works.
I did the non-recommended fix in April of 2020 so it's been almost 2 years. I feel blessed that mine is still working. "Even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in awhile".
Come to think of it, I will be married 50 years in April too. Yes, I am a very blessed man.
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
05-06-2021, 01:48 PM
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Wow, photogem, quite a lengthy critique.
You struck a nerve with me so I will address a few points:
It's not an inconvenience for me to use my K30 on a regular basis. You're not criticizing that, but I shouldn't make it public? It seems that lack of use is common to those that have reported failures. What's wrong with 'use it or lose it' posts in public? Like this quote from a famous member "It is known and proven that a very regular use usually helps, in a way you could say leaving a car standing all the time unused is not that good for the pistons. Mechanical parts designed for movement are better used." It should sound familiar to you, see your post #347 on pg 24.
The solenoid wasn't dangling on the 2 wires, I had it supported appropriately during the 'procedure'. It's not like it is a boat anchor hanging by a thread.
My post #338, pg 23, explains why I didn't do any soldering. I don't trust my soldering skills enough to wreck a working K100D on a potentially dead K30.
(My post #348 pg 24, indicated my level of soldering skills, you even responded to it)
In my post #340, pg 23 I said that I didn't expect what I did to work. And having working K100D, K20, and K5 IIs I decided not to put any money or any more time into the K30. I also indicated my pleasant surprise that it worked after putting it back together and I also said that I expected it to fail again sooner or later. (see my post #346 pg 24). Why do you seem to imply that I am endorsing what I did as the solution when I said more than once that I expected it to fail again? Does that sound like I am misleading anyone?
Speaking for myself, I know enough about solenoids having worked on cassette and reel-to-reel tape decks that I wouldn't lubricate or sand, I never said that I lubed or sanded. Why do you imply that I did?
Again, I have to thank you for the work you have done, but you seem to be offended by anyone that even 'temporarily' solved their ABF problem without doing it YOUR way, calling them lazy, implying they are misleading others and further implying they did things (lubricating, sanding) that they did not.
I'm sorry that I feel offended by your remarks, I just reviewed the last few pages of this thread and see that you are not singling me out, I guess it's just your style: (see post #345 at the bottom of pg 23.)
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
05-05-2021, 09:13 AM
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Update on my K30 Solenoid 'Fix'
Referring to my post #338 last April 24, 2020. I had opened up my K30 that had the Auto Aperture solenoid problem, pulled the horseshoe magnet out, made sure it was clean and put it back together.
It worked again.
I am happy to report that my K30 is still working perfectly for over a year now. The only thing I have done differently is to use the K30 at least once per week. I relate the original problem to a lack of use for over 3 months.
EDIT: For a point of reference I had reported in April 2020 that my K30 had a shutter count of about 5300. The last photo I took today was shutter count 6410. So since my 'fix' I have had about 1100 shutter releases without a problem. Granted, that is not a high shutter count for a year of use.
Thanks for taking the time to document how to access the solenoid.
EDIT MAY 6, 2021 (21:56 EDT USA). I did not change or alter the 'green' solenoid in my K30 in any way. Therefore no one should conclude that simply removing the "U" plunger and inserting it back into the body will result in a permanent fix. My previous posts #338, #340, #346 indicated that I expect it to fail again since it is still the same faulty solenoid that will likely fail again.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
06-09-2020, 11:30 AM
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I guess I'm OCD about the dust, and being bored with not much to do because of the Coronavirus shutdown I decided to take the first 2 steps of dismantling the front element.
This video is closer to how my lens is assembled than the other 2 videos in my first post above.
You Tube
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src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Q0sqIhx3S-s?controls=1" allowfullscreen>
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The front element holder in this video has 'calibration' holes, however on mine there are no distinct holes, just continuous slots so you have to mark the screw locations on the element holder exactly before removing the screws. So I went ahead and did the entire job. It was an easy procedure. I checked the focus after putting it back together and it's right where it originally was.
To me the greatest risk is not marking the location of where the screws go. The mounting holes for the front element holder are on a series of 'wedges' around the circumference of where the front element attaches. this will vary the distance between the front element and the next element which of course effects focus. From what I understand specialized calibration equipment is used to set the exact location, so it is most important to get the front element mounted in the exact location from where it is removed from.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
06-09-2020, 08:47 AM
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Has anyone successfully removed internal dust inside the front elements of a DA 18-250mm lens? This is the same lens as the Tamron AF 18-250mm Di II lens.
I've had mine for several years and there are a few annoying specs of dust that I can see on the inside of the front element and possibly on the outside of the second element.
Is there a way to access these from the front? I wouldn't want to have to disassemble from the back which I'm sure would then require specialized equipment.
I saw this videos for a different Tamron:
You Tube
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src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/t_gP191QOUY?controls=1" allowfullscreen>
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Has anyone tried this?
Here's another for a Tamron 17-50mm :
You Tube
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src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/lRJ-yhKXO-c?controls=1" allowfullscreen>
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
04-29-2020, 07:55 AM
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Thanks for all the guidance. I think I have an old spool of leaded solder that I bought in a yard sale last summer. I will probably wear a mask, I have been wearing one quite a bit lately.
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
04-28-2020, 05:45 PM
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Thank you so much for that information. Good to know that I will still have a fully functioning K100D if I do steal the 'white' solenoid from it.
If you don't mind, I have a few questions as to de-soldering / re-soldering.
> Did Ricoh solder or glue the wire leads to their solenoids?
> I have a Weller WES51 soldering station with variable tip temperature 350-850 F. What temp do you recommend for this job?
> I think you recommend in your manual to tin the wire lead ends before re-soldering them to the solenoid. Does that allow you to just partially wrap the tinned end of the wire around the solenoid terminal then touch the hot soldering tip to the terminal to melt the tinned wire end onto the terminal without applying more solder?
I have done some soldering work on my vintage stereo equipment. Some easy jobs like replacing speaker crossover capacitors, the most difficult being some little transistors in a Teac reel-to-reel tape deck. This K30 looks to be more challenging.
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
04-28-2020, 01:13 PM
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I agree that disassembling the K30 is some work, but not too bad with the guidance you provided, thank you.
I did take the solenoid off very carefully with the wires attached. No, damage, but I was careful.
I pulled the plunger out, inspected it, made sure the two ends were clean, and nothing causing them to bind in the two channels of the coil piece.
I put the plunger back in, not paying attention to whether or not I put it back in exactly the same orientation that it came out as I don't think that makes a difference electrically/magnetically.
I didn't expect that it would work once I put it back together, but I was surprised to find that the K30 is back to operating correctly now.
However, I have no confidence that it will last. But like I said in my previous post #340, I also have a K100D that works, but am willing to sacrifice it to get a good 'white' solenoid out of it.
It remains a mystery to me however, why the K30 worked for 5,300 actuations during the first 1 1/2 years, then failed, and now works again after only taking the plunger out and then placing it back in. In my case, the original failure was noticed after the K30 was not used for several months. I have been using it every day now since 'fixing' it last week and so far, so good.
Will the 'green' solenoid from the K30 work in the pop-up flash of the K100d if I take the 'white' one out to use in the K30?
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
04-26-2020, 09:54 PM
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Cee Cee,
It's possible but I didn't keep track. I really didn't expect it to be successful and thought, oh crap, I should have kept track of the orientation.
But not due to polarity, just how it fits. I'm not convinced that everything is symmetric, seems like sloppy tolerances. Still begs the question, why did it work for 5,300 actuations, then failed, and now works?
And sorry, but I'm not taking it apart to flip it. I'm leaving well enough alone for now. Today I happened to dig out my K100d that's been stored away for years. It works fine.
But, if the K30 fails again I will cannibalise the 'white' solenoid from the pop-up flash of my K100d for the K30. I might put the 'green' solenoid from the K30 in the K100d too, but scanning through this thread I think I saw that someone tried that and it didn't work in the K100d?
This is my line up:
Left to right, K100d, K20, K30, K5 ii s
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
04-24-2020, 07:26 PM
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Haven't used the K30 in years after experiencing the Aperture Block failure. Fixed it a few days ago and just did the firmware update to the K50 v1.10.
DA 18-55 mm AL kit lens. No flash.
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
04-24-2020, 11:49 AM
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This is my first comment here regarding the aperture block failure. My K30 failed after 5,300 actuations only about 18 months after purchasing it new. The failure was well known at the time, albeit no definitive cause. I was really disappointed in the response I got from Pentax, basically telling me 'that's too bad, contact someone for a repair quote, but we're not covering it".
I really appreciate photogem's research into the issue. But I have a problem with "Ricoh didn't cheat, it was their supplier who changed it without letting Ricoh know that they
now manufacture this item in China with cheaper material and different magnetic holding force."
Yes I believe that Ricoh/Pentax did not intentionally cheat. But I bought my K30 from an authorized Ricoh/Pentax retailer. I didn't buy any component from a Chinese parts supplier.
Anything Ricoh bought to put in their product becomes Ricoh's responsibility. I worked in manufacturing for 40 years. There is an obligation to ensure that outsourced parts are within specifications. You just don't take the supplier's word for it. Either Ricoh didn't do their due diligence on incoming parts or the Ricoh specification tolerance for magnetic holding force on this part was too broad. Either way it's Ricoh's failure.
I saw a survey as to owners of the affected models. A failure rate of approximately 1 in 3 seems to be the case for the K30. Maybe the sample size isn't large enough to convince Ricoh, but it was in the range of 300 samples as I recall. That is nowhere close to being acceptable for a device that is supposed to have a shutter life of 100k. Where I worked, unacceptable failure rates were measured in ppm (parts per million).
---------- Post added 04-24-2020 at 03:34 PM ----------
Being shut in due to the Coronavirus and having nothing better to do, I decided to dismantle my failed K30. It has sat unused for several years since it failed (ABF).
Thanks again to phtogem for the 'manual' that guided me through the dismantle. I heeded the caution not to sand the horseshoe plunger.
I have a K100d, but after getting into the K30 the very small size of the component and limitations of my 70 year old eyes scared me off of de-soldering and re-soldering.
So all I did was pull the plunger out and inspect the two ends making sure there was no debris or corrosion. Then I put it back together, and it has been working good as new for 3 days now.
I think I messed up the location of the 'AF-S, C, M' lever when putting the front back on as I get continuous shutter releases in both AF-S and C positions. 'M' (manual focus) works as it should.
I expect to get a relapse of the ABF, so will address that issue then.
I'm just curious as to why the aperture worked for a year and half, then failed, now works again by just reinserting the plunger.
So is it a combination of 3 issues?
1. Magnetic holding force,
2. the gap that the plunger travels through is also too sloppy in terms of fit and parallelism,
3. difference in material; PET vs PTFE (green vs white).
Referring to my last post, Ricoh isn't clean on this. The newer part has a higher magnetic holding force which should be measurable, the photos showing the gap and parallelism between the original part and the new is obviously different, and just the change in color (white to green) should have been enough to warrant a sourcing investigation. To me it's unconscionable that Ricoh would be repairing customer's K30/K50's with the same 'bad' part.
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Forum: Photography Articles
02-18-2009, 06:45 PM
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Try OneCall . com. At this URL, (hope this isn't against the rules) ProMaster 7500EDF for Pentax Flash Unit - In Stock at OneCall.com
Promaster 7500EDF $229 plus about $8 shipping.
I bought the 7500DX from onecall.com about 2 years ago for Konica/Minolta and really like the flash. Can't comment on the Pentax version. I have the AF360FGZ for my K100D and I'm not as impreseed with it as I am with the 7500DX. Of course this isn't an apples to apples comparison.
BTW onecall.com is very good to deal with.
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Forum: Post Your Photos!
10-05-2008, 02:01 PM
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I have recently purchased the Sigma 24-60 also and am growing to like it. It replaces my kit 18-55mm and I don't miss the wide end (18-24) that much. I think the quality of the color rendering is what makes this lens stand out.
Of course the deep blue eyes of those beautiful children certainly help. Does everyone in Denmark have blue eyes? Nice photos.
Jim
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Forum: Post Your Photos!
10-05-2008, 01:46 PM
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Yes, there was a very faint second raindbow. Thanks for looking.
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Forum: Post Your Photos!
10-05-2008, 12:39 PM
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Normally no, but this one let me get within almost 3 feet over the course of several minutes. They really seem to like my wife's Black Eyed Susan seeds.
Thanks for looking.
Jim
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Forum: Post Your Photos!
10-05-2008, 12:37 PM
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Yes, you're probably correct. Although I didn't crop this much as I had managed to get pretty close, almost 3 feet and I had the lens at 300mm. I thought I would have to put the lens in macro mode if I got any closer, but he flew off.
Thanks,
Jim
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Forum: Post Your Photos!
10-05-2008, 12:33 PM
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I didn't have time to do anything but snap a few shots when my wife started yelling at me to get the camera out and shoot this rainbow before it fades. I had my Sigma 24-60mm EX DG mounted at the time. It has a 77mm filter thread and I don't have any filters for it. But, what I like about this lens is the job it does with colors. I have to admit that I post processed the first photo - made several copies varying exposure compensation in 1/2 EV increments plus and minus and then made an HDR in Photomatix. The second photo is not an HDR, just a little curves adjustment in PS CS. This was the brightest rainbow I have ever seen.
Jim
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