|
Forum: Welcomes and Introductions
10-19-2023, 12:24 AM
|
| |
When I first read this I thought "digital back" meant a digital imaging sensor :p
Still, it's pretty cool, if rather bulky... Never seen one of those! :)
|
|
Forum: Welcomes and Introductions
10-18-2023, 03:34 PM
|
| |
Hello! Long time Pentax user (since 1980) first time on the forum.
I have a question on a Pentax K2 DMD that I acquired last year. The camera has a digital back, which is a cool feature, but quite annoying any time I go to look through the viewfinder. I also have the regular back, but I cannot find any information online on how to change the backs. Does anyone here know?
Thanks!
|
|
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
09-14-2022, 03:46 PM
|
| |
Just a quick update to finish off this topic. Following the first cleaning attempt the lens was fungus free albeit I had introduced a fair amount of dust. In use however I was not having much luck with the lens. Images were just below average. Not quite sharp like I was always missing focus. They would sharpen up surprisingly well in post, but were not satisfying straight out the camera unlike the rest of my lenses. Apart from the dust I could see no issue. I disassembled the lens and polished each* element by breathing on it and wiping it with a new microfibre lens cloth and reassembled. This worked, the results were might and day and I'm now happy with the results of this lens straight out of camera.
* there was an assembly of two elements I could not easily separate, but they were fungus free inside so I did not make the attempt to try separating this pair.
|
|
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
05-29-2022, 07:43 AM
|
| |
If it not there factory wise, light beams will not touch the glass borders, you can leave it as it is.
|
|
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
05-29-2022, 01:35 AM
|
| |
The black paint is to reduce internal scattering in the glass itself. That paint does not survive solvents. I used a black permanent marker pen to fix that.
|
|
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
05-28-2022, 11:23 AM
|
| |
The lens elements in the M28 are very small. Cleaning them with a cotton handkerchief and pure ethanol often does the job. Cleaned this is a fine lens on APS-C. Compact and pretty sharp stopped down a bit. Good luck!
|
|
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
06-11-2023, 03:47 PM
|
| |
Hi there.
Just a not on removing stubborn screws from lenses.
It is best to create a situation where you don't have to use brute force to remove the screws as the heads can easily break off break or the slots can be damaged by slipping. Try the below.
1. Put a drop of isopropanol o each screw and leave to soak. Add a little more at about 30 second intervals. Do this for 2 or three minutes and let the lens settle for a few minutes. Then try with normal force to undo the screw.
2. for the the ones that remain stubborn. Put your JIS screwdriver into the screw head and tap gently with a small pin hammer. Give a tap about 3 to 5 times. Try removing again.
3. Use a soldering iron with a small tip to heat the screw to break down any adhesive like Loctite that may have been used. Heat for 5 seconds then try removing the screw again.
You will find that by using the above precautions the screws will undo relatively easily with normal force.
Regards
Ricky.
|
|
Forum: Monthly Photo Contests
03-19-2023, 08:04 PM
|
| |
Was hoping for some fireworks at sunset, but the clouds moved in too quickly.
Thankfully got this about 45min prior.
For some reason I found converting this to B/W difficult to get right, here is what I came up with.
|
|
Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
03-23-2023, 11:43 AM
|
| |
yes, they should have done that yesterday :hmm:
|
|
Forum: Do-It-Yourself
01-11-2021, 08:17 AM
|
| |
Yes, fully agreed and I didn't notice that Teslanol T6 is not a tuner spray as I am using it since decades when I wrote in the beginning of the tutorial:
Thank you, this is very important and the way to learn!
Here in Europe we use since decades Contact Chemie Tuner 600 which is recommended for very sensitive tuners.
I have a little bit experience with high-quality professional broadcasting receivers such as the Rohde@Schwarz Ballempfänger and similar ones made by Maihak and Telefunken plus many US tuners by H.H. Scott such as the 310E as well as the 4310 and the early 310A in my house, same for the Fisher FM1000, McIntosh MR71, Marantz 10B and several others. We had all the equipment to align them properly as well but this is now a while ago, FM radio is not that interesing anymore, quality has gone down dramatically (the way I conceive quality)
I have often warned in this forum, normal contact cleaners are killers, I was not aware that Teslanol T6 Oszilling is more a normal contact cleaner
because here in Europe a "tuner-spray" is for the most sensitive equipment, but you please correct me if there is more to learn or know or if I am wrong!
Sadly I never heard of DeoxIT FaderLube before, I am pretty sure it would be in my house if I'd known about it, it sounds very promising:
Possibly I never came across it because potentiometers I have used in the past were mainly made by ALPS or Noble
and some Suisse manufacturers and for Audio and studio-equipment.
But some of those were Cermet potentiometers and in those rare occasions I needed it used Contact Gold 2000 with success.
Anyway: DeosIT FaderLube will be one of my next acquisitions for sure!
@BigMacCam:
It is long time ago that I completly disassembled an *istD or *istDS but in a few days a defunct Samsung GX1s shall arrive which is similar to the *istDS2. So I will check about the access for those trimmer potentiometers.
If my memory didn't "fade" I think it is more complex and different to the K100D.
But I could be wrong.
About Vessel JIS screwdrivers. I use the long Vessel 9902 which are very different to the T-Series by Vessel.
I need their length for the solenoid repairs and am very happy with them. Never had any problems.
I have highly rated Wiha Picofinish PH0, 00, 000 here as well Facom Microtech.
But those are PH and not JIS. The Moody Tools JIS-set I cannot recommend. Inferior to Vessel 9902.
|
|
Forum: Do-It-Yourself
01-12-2021, 07:05 AM
|
| |
Tuner spray is also the wrong chemical for potentiometers - it is a contact cleaner sold for cleaning the multi-pole switches in TV tuners.
|
|
Forum: Do-It-Yourself
01-11-2021, 06:55 AM
|
| |
That "tiny part" appears to be a trimmer potentiometer. If that is what it is contact cleaner is the wrong chemical to use on it. Many contact cleaners will damage some potentiometers and hasten their demise. Contact cleaners are designed for metal-to-metal contacts such as those in switches and relays. For potentiometers you need a cleaner designed for the conductive tracks used in potentiometers and linear faders. As a professional broadcast studio and transmitter engineer with 50+ years of experience I use DeoxIT FaderLube for such purposes - it is designed for conductive control surfaces.
Dale H. Cook, Radio Contract Engineer, Roanoke/Lynchburg, VA
Star City Radio Tools |
|
Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
02-06-2021, 04:39 AM
|
| |
Thanks "Philber" for clarifying this and welcome to the forum.
Great entry!
Indeed it is the Seiko MS621-FE FL11E
(MS621 has different versions, we need those ones with the solder tags)
The MS518SE FL35E should work as well.
On Amazon I found only equivalents from Chinese sellers. I prefer "made in Japan" for the know reasons.
Farnell Germany/Europe sells the original Seiko 621 for a very reasonable price.
I already started a tutorial for this because I think it needs its own thread and put it online just now
and it is thanks to your input!
Well done for mentioning insulating the metall-plate backpart!
Very important because the top is PLUS (+) |
|
Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
01-28-2021, 08:12 AM
|
| |
- mirror is operating ( view finder works), except it does not go up when "sensor cleaning" enabled
Does the mirror goes up in live View mode even the shutter remains closed?
Does the mirror goes up and down when shooting in ordidary manner (using optical view finder)?
- shutter stuck, completly closed
You can check if the shutter is stucked on first curtain or second curtain. Just elevate gently the mirror with your finger and look for metallic dot in upper left corner. It is almost hiding but can be seen. If you see that "dot", the shutter is in normal position (prepared to fire, as always after taking picture), stucked on first curtain. If you see the metallic dot in lower left corner, the shutter is stucked on second curtain (it means the shutter opened first curtain and closed the second, but did not completed whole cycle to be prepared for the next shot). This can be the sign of shutter failure, but not mechanical in origin, most likely electronical. If the previous owner did something wrong on the mother board, shortened the circuitry, the shutter can not operate properly.
- the flash does not fire, even in forced mode
Maybe this can be related to the fact that shutter curtains do not operate properly. This can also indicate capacitor problems. You can check if the capacitor is charging, but I don't know if it's ethical to offer to try it with your fingers, because the discharge is really unpleasant (I've experienced this more than once) :)
- aperture wheels locked, to move it I have to apply much more force (feel that some spring is blocking it, it returns to its previous place after removing the pressure)
What diaphragm wheels are you talking about? Do you mean the controller of lens' aperture lever that is located on the left side (looking from the mount side)? You can push it up by finger with some force and normally it returns back due to force of the spring inside (it is visible through the slit). That is normal behavior. The normal position of the controller is in the middle. For the controller of aperture lever to stuck mechanically there should be damage of gears inside the mirror movement mechanics. I opened once that "pandora box". OMG!! Luckily I assembled it back correctly.
BTW, if you meant wheels that are partly visible from the side of solenoid ant you tried to spin them applying the force, it is normal to return for them after removing force, because there are some springs inside as well as a claw, similar to an engine crankshaft.
- solenoid is not moving at all, position of its levar is not affecting the wheels ( it schould be locking when it is down, after applayng the current)
You can remove that solenoid by unscrewing 1 screw and move the lever operated by the solenoid core with your finger. BTW, I noted that in Pentax cameras the manufacturer use connecting wires of the same color even in different models. Check if one is lightly rose and another lightly violet (should be for sure). Are those wires soldered in correct way as in picture below?
 20201119_210250 by MG Mindaugas, on Flickr
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
01-28-2021, 06:43 AM
|
| |
Almost certainly
That means that the mirror-up mechanism was jammed and it got released.
Good, but to bad:
These are interrelated. The shutter is opened and closed with 2 other solenoids, both sitting deep inside the camera,
you'll need to take everything apart to get to it:
But then, if the shuttersolenoids are damaged you can forget it, I have never seen them on offer anywhere.
That was to be expected with all the wheels being jammed.
Possibly that some of the "return-springs" of some wheels jumped out, again, almost impossible to repair.
Sure, the solenoid does not move and the shutter won't open.
Well, of course you can try to dig deeper.
I see it like this:
parts that can be used for spares:
- focusing screen (fits K5/3/KP, K30/50/500/K-S1/2/70)
- LCD fits many
- Back cover
- Top-cover
- the battery hook!
- motherboards
- sensor
Some ebay-sellers make more money with parts than a defunct complete body.
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
01-27-2021, 12:49 PM
|
| |
I am certain you are right.
But then there is a slight but important difference between those screws which screw into metal and those which screw into plastic.
Some have a slight difference in thickness, thread, lead and pitch.
That's why I take either photos of each side of the body or make a short drawing, pinch tiny holes into the places the screws are located
and stick them in there.
A simple drawing is done within few minutes.
But because I knew this was not going to be just one repair anymore, photos glued on cardboard served best.
One can actually just copy photos from the internet and print those.
So what all screws have in common:
They are all JIS!
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
01-27-2021, 09:28 AM
|
| |
Here are photos of a K30 and all screws with their individual length:
Bottom:
Top:
Sides + underneath rubber eyepiece:
K50 and K500 have one screw less in the center underneath the pop-up-flash!
Otherwise identical.
Thanks to a person in Saarbrücken, Germany who sent me the photos!
|
|
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
02-06-2021, 12:16 AM
|
| |
I took your advice and took the battery out for 20 odd hours. Put it back in today and hey, its all working as it should again. So far so good. Thank you for your advice. Just hope it works OK from now on, but at least I know that I can do this. Thanks to everyone for their help.
|
|
Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
12-25-2020, 11:46 AM
|
| |
This video nicely fills in a few gaps and while it has been linked as a comment elsewhere, probably deserves its own thread...
You Tube
|
src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/nwarim_kr6M?controls=1" allowfullscreen>
|
Steve
|
|
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
05-29-2019, 11:43 PM
|
| |
Surely there will be a certain amount of 'drain' even with the camera switched off to maintain the internal battery ? Is it possible that this is either failing or out of spec, and causing the issue ?
|
|
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
08-02-2020, 12:12 AM
|
| |
Despite the fact that the number of camera bodies i need is n + 1, n being the number of camera bodies the other guy has, I am not going to buy K new because;
1. I have too many cameras
2. I want to buy lenses (even though I have too many lenses)
3. APS-C, really?
4. I just added how much money I have spent on camera gears over the years
5. I don’t need it
6. I want to instead try Hasselblad 907X special edition I mean special edition did I mention it’s special edition?
7. My Tacoma has over 130,000 miles despite being 2017 model - I need a new truck
8. I want to buy a new wide format printer
9. Death to OVF (I use EVF for my M10 - that’s dumb)
10. Ok I’ll buy it
How about you guys?
|
|
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
08-08-2020, 06:53 AM
|
| |
I, too, recently acquired a *istD and initially had a battery experience like the OP.
After reading around the Forum, I went with Eneloops and things have been fine since - several hundred exposures so far with the initial charge and still going strong.
GET SOME ENELOOPS! (I got whole kit, including the like-branded charger, from Amazon.)
|
|
Forum: Welcomes and Introductions
07-22-2020, 02:37 PM
|
| |
Welcome to Pentax Forums.
|
|
Forum: Welcomes and Introductions
07-22-2020, 09:06 AM
|
| |
Welcome to the Forums from Rome, Italy.
|
|
Forum: Welcomes and Introductions
07-22-2020, 03:30 AM
|
| |
welcome to the forums
You will find friendly members and knowledge here
|
