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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 04-16-2024, 01:06 PM  
Pentax lenses on Fujifilm APSC mirrorless cameras?
Posted By hajr12
Replies: 13
Views: 539
Thanks for your advice.
Forum: General Photography 04-11-2024, 06:22 AM  
That Elusive "3D Pop" Defined
Posted By rparmar
Replies: 32
Views: 2,642
This article took a long time to research and write. I might say three decades! I find it's worth diving deep into a contentious topic, if only to gain clarity in my own mind. Hope it's useful for others. That Elusive "3D Pop" Defined is available on my blog. Contains simple explanations of MTF, DOF, and sharpness that will help beginners cut through the technical details. Examples provided from three Pentax lenses.

TL;DR

3D pop is a desirable characteristic of an image where the subject is rendered with a pleasing dimensionality that allows it to be clearly distinguished from its environment. This effect is created by a combination of ideal light, appropriate subject to background distance, and perspective. Furthermore, it requires a lens that is free from optical defects, with high measurements for sharpness and contrast, at least in the part of the frame where the subject is located. Furthermore, a lens that does not perfectly correct field curvature can enhance 3D pop.

Background blur and separation are not the same as 3D pop, though they might enhance the effect. A wide open aperture is not essential and might even be counter-productive. Instead, choose the aperture that most clearly isolates the subject.
Forum: General Photography 04-11-2024, 11:46 AM  
That Elusive "3D Pop" Defined
Posted By AgentL
Replies: 32
Views: 2,642
Makes sense about how modern lenses strive for a flat plane of focus. One of the by-products of all that correction I think is abrupt focus falloff, which is a hallmark of modern lenses and something I've grown to find more and more ugly, as I come to appreciate rendering more. I think gentle focus falloff contributes a lot to 3D pop, just like gentle highlight falloff is a marker of better sensors or film. Smoothness of transition is important in photography in multiple ways.
Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II 03-30-2024, 07:45 PM  
Used K1 - getting started
Posted By PPPPPP42
Replies: 23
Views: 1,189
If you were a film shooter you won't be able to put the K-1 down.
I loved my K5, and I loved my film cameras, but since weight is no issue for me I had zero use for any camera but my K-1 and everything else got sold. It's everything I loved about my K5 and my film cameras in one body.

Remember to test all your auto focus lenses to see of you need to save corrections in the camera for front or back focus.

Hopefully you have a few really nice film lenses you hung on to. It's fun to be able to open them up to the full field of view again after using the K5's chop sensor for so long.
Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II 03-29-2024, 01:14 PM  
Used K1 - getting started
Posted By UncleVanya
Replies: 23
Views: 1,189
I would do as suggested, then read and implement the recommended settings:

Pentax K-1 Review - Recommended Settings | PentaxForums.com Reviews

Or at least review them. The firmware updates might change recommended options a bit and personal preference also should be considered.
Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II 03-29-2024, 09:56 AM  
Used K1 - getting started
Posted By jbinpg
Replies: 23
Views: 1,189
I would reset the camera first, then immediately do a firmware upgrade. Remember to have full batteries for the upgrade. There were several useful functions added after the 1.5x series. Then you can continue with the various modifications such as user modes and folder names, etc. It will soon be *your* camera. You made a good choice in acquiring a K-1. - Jack
Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II 03-29-2024, 12:44 PM  
Used K1 - getting started
Posted By Roadboat24
Replies: 23
Views: 1,189
Yep, full battery, reset, update firmware. Then set to your preferences and indulge yourself. I love my K1 !!!!.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 03-28-2024, 07:20 PM  
K-1 with DA* 50-135mm and DA 1.4x TC - real world experience?
Posted By mikesbike
Replies: 15
Views: 729
My thinking exactly. For tele needs, especially faster-aperture, I generally just switch to my KP, often with this lens. I've been thinking about that TC too. I've often wondered how or if it would function on a FF body like my K-1 II. I sometimes complement the DA* 50-135mm with the DA* 200mm f/2.8 but the TC would be a smaller carry if not needing f/2.8 especially. Sometimes when I'm out and about with my K-1 II, I might want to include this great lens, now that I know it is possible- thanks to this post! Thank you for bringing this up! I do like my D-FA 28-105mm, but as an alternative this would give me more reach into the tele range and more aperture. Might possibly couple it with my old but very good Tokina 28-70mm ATX f/2.6-2.8 Pro II.
Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands 03-21-2024, 04:23 PM  
Fuji X series club
Posted By xs4all
Replies: 5,669
Views: 400,366

Available Light by xs4all
X100V

:cool:
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 03-18-2024, 04:33 PM  
K-7 Appreciation - The Forefather Forgotten
Posted By Wheatfield
Replies: 354
Views: 43,240
K7, DA*60-250.

Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 03-18-2024, 09:51 AM  
K-7 Appreciation - The Forefather Forgotten
Posted By Ivan
Replies: 354
Views: 43,240
What does this have to do with idiots? Nobody said that. I have cameras with and without anti-aliasing filters. I agree with ..hjortron.. If the lens is sharp and the camera is ok, the picture looks very good. It seems that the absence of a filter is necessary for some special purposes, such as astrophotography. But sometimes it’s better for me that he is present.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 03-11-2024, 04:35 PM  
K-7 Appreciation - The Forefather Forgotten
Posted By HoundFrog
Replies: 354
Views: 43,240
It's amazing this relic of the Web 1.0 is still with us, not sold for profit.
Forum: Pentax KP 03-08-2024, 12:34 PM  
KP Didn't Let Me Down
Posted By mikesbike
Replies: 54
Views: 3,360
So now you have both the KP AND the K-1 II?? Well, aren't you well-fixed!!

After owning and loving the KP for quite some time, a couple of years back I likewise decided to finally additionally get into the FF alternative, since I already had many fine AF FF lenses for my Pentax 35mm film bodies. I too took the deal offered with the D-FA 28-105mm pre-packaged with the camera, so as to have a complete WR system available with the K-1 II. Between these two cameras, I am one happy shooter! The KP and some very fine lenses for when longer telephoto, and/or lighter more compact carrying are at issue. Then the K-1 II when I won't be doing longer trekking or biking, and also for night scene shots or when other very low-light conditions will be the case, as well as less extensive carrying. The K-1 II is one helluva camera!

My APS-C system is now quite well-developed after so many years and camera models, and my KP is probably still my most often-used, but I have been surprised by how often it is that I choose my FF system. Getting the D-FA 28-105 has turned out to be a wise choice, and I'm also now once again finding the joy I used to experience with certain lenses on my 35mm film bodies- but even more so on the K-1 II! Primarily employing FF usage in the Ultra-wide to moderate tele range keeps the weight down for carrying. However, the K-1 II being so very well-designed makes for truly excellent handling, and thus its weight less noticeable.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 03-08-2024, 04:17 AM  
Clackers' Beginners Tip 104: The Pentax FA 77 Limited
Posted By BigMackCam
Replies: 13
Views: 1,785
It's worth noting that the FA77 can suffer from purple fringing in high contrast areas, especially around blown highlights (not a big problem with B&W, of course). Otherwise, it's fairly well corrected for astigmatism, but resolution towards the frame edges is somewhat compromised by korma...
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 03-08-2024, 03:49 AM  
Clackers' Beginners Tip 104: The Pentax FA 77 Limited
Posted By robgski
Replies: 13
Views: 1,785
I enjoy Indian restaurants, but at my local place, I can only seem to order entrees from them, all talk of appetizers results in a naan starter.

I agree that the FA 77mm is a great choice for a prime, espcially for those who like to do a bit of portraiture. The FA 77mm is an incredible lens, especially for me because it's so compact and relatively lightweight, it often becomes a walk around lens for weeks at a time. I use it for landscapes, backyard birding, even close in detail images, it's really a lens for all uses.
It is suited for both FF and APS-C cameras, I recently used it for the past month on the KP for the Single In challenge.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 03-07-2024, 08:27 PM  
Clackers' Beginners Tip 104: The Pentax FA 77 Limited
Posted By clackers
Replies: 13
Views: 1,785
Good morning, everyone. At the weekend, I dropped into a local furniture store. My wife hated my impulse purchase of a revolving chair, but then she sat on it.

Eventually she came round.

Now, I don't like employers putting lots of conditions on their workers. An Indian restaurant I served in years ago was so secretive I had to sign a legal contract that I wouldn't share their flatbread recipe.

It was their standard naan disclosure agreement.

So, I have the Sigma 85mm f1.4 as a quality short tele prime, but it's big and heavy, and not always suited when I do walkaround photography. I often don't feel like loading it into my minimalist bag. Owners of the amazing Pentax DFA* 85mm f1.4 might even get the same feeling.

That's when I use my FA 77 Limited, which ultimately does most of what my Sigma can do, as you can see in the K-1 picture below. Why is it one of the most sought after Pentax lenses?

In the film era of the 90s, famed Pentax lens designer Jun Hirakawa (who would later head Tamron's lens division) was behind a project to make three small but quality primes - known later by some as The Three Princesses. Eccentricity seemed to be part of the philosophy ... the focal lengths were just the start.

The first was 43mm, which he had thought for geometry reasons was ideal for naturalistic street photography. A small production run was made for Leica owners too.

Second was the 77, which he saw as a smaller version of his famous FA*85 f1.4. The last was the larger 31mm, which IIRC others in the company finished, as his original idea of a descendant of his smaller FA28 f2.8 was rejected. It's a lot bigger than the FA35, too, but ... we'll see in a future tip, it's worth it!

The reduced sizes meant design compromises, and with less glass in them he sacrificed maximum aperture and sharpness for contrast and rendering. They're made of anodized aluminium and hand assembled, and have built in lens hoods. Mine is silver, and tends to get a curious second glance by other photographers. The current versions have HD coating (see Beginners Tip 103 for explanation).

If you're looking to spend on a joyful prime, used or new, to upgrade from say, a zoom, this is one to consider - iconic, even - and a fine portrait lens. Nine rounded blades contribute to the beautiful bokeh. With just a 49mm filter size, it's compact enough to even go in a pocket.

To finish with this week, there's the story of a not very bright man named Fred who goes to a doctor.

He says, "Doc, I want to be castrated. "

The doctor says, "Look, I don't know what kind of cult you're into or what your motives are, but I'm not going to do that sort of operation. "

Fred says, "Doc, I just want to be castrated, and I'm a little embarrassed talking about it, but I have $10,000 cash right here. Will you do it? "

The doctor says, "Well, OK, I guess I could make this one exception. I don't understand, but OK. "

He puts Fred to sleep, does the trick, and is waiting at the bedside when Fred wakes up.

"Well, Doc, how'd it go?" Fred asks.

"It went fine, just fine. It's really not too difficult of an operation. As a matter of fact, $10,000 is a lot to pay for such a simple task, and I felt a little guilty about taking that much. So, while I was operating, I also noticed that you had never been circumcised, so I went ahead and did that, too. I think, it's really better for a man to be circumcised, and I hope you don't mind my... "

"CIRCUMCISED! " yells Fred. "THAT'S the word!!!"

Find the rest of the series here: Clackers' Beginners Tips (Collected) - PentaxForums.com

Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 03-03-2024, 08:45 AM  
Travel recommendations
Posted By texandrews
Replies: 20
Views: 1,168
What's your goal, actually? Memories? Art? Landscape?, Wildlife?

If it's art and landscape, take the K1 and the 28-105 plus another prime (according to your personal vision).

If it's memories and wildlife then take the K3III and 2 zooms, one weighted wide and one weighted long (I don't shoot apsc so I can't advise exactly which ones).

If it's all of the above then all of that, but make a decision for the day and only deploy that kit. Or, get yourself a much better bag/pack that makes a heavier lod ride like a lighter one. A really good bag makes ALL the difference in the world.

Also: do a heckuva lot of research on the parks you're going to. Some have easy wildlife shooting and in some it's really the landscape that shines. Know before you go. BTW, also really pay attention to when to go---weather, crowds, etc. Crowding in the summer makes some parks almost impossible, and weather can really impact your visit in others.
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 02-29-2024, 07:16 AM  
XP2 or color negative film for scanning to b/w?
Posted By DaveInMass
Replies: 40
Views: 1,272
Hi again everybody,

Thanks to the input here, I decided to revive my (never that great)film developing skills. Here’s a shot from my first test of Ilford HP5 (shot at 800), developed in Diafine, scanned with a Plustek 8300i with very minimal enhancement. It’s a bit dusty and gross — I need to practice. Overall I’m very happy with this first result. Using B/W film this way will save me some money, and it’s fun. I decided to start with Diafine because it has the reputation of being forgiving, and very long lasting.



-Dave
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 02-22-2024, 07:13 PM  
Good news! Kodak lowers price on 35mm Tri-X film
Posted By Momus22
Replies: 23
Views: 1,274
This modest price reduction comes years too late for me. I stopped using Kodak products some time ago. First it was the brown Dektol (new). Then it was the brown D76 (also new). After contacting a Kodak rep, which almost required the services of Sherlock Holmes to find a contact email, I was promised replacements for both after uploading the pics they requested. That was several years ago and I'm still waiting.

The good news is that I started looking at the "inferior" films like Foma, which a lot of people seemed to have issues with. I hate the 200, but the 100 and 400 are golden. In Rodinal, the 100 can look almost like the Tri-X from decades ago. Also tried Ilford Delta 100, maybe the best film I ever shot. But my go to films are the Foma for their tonality and low price. Clayton F76 replaced D76 quite nicely and it doesn't go off after a few months like the Kodak developer.

I do still buy old Kodak products on eBay auctions. Ancient tins of Microdol X, D76 and fixer always work fine, and I have yet to find an expired roll of Tri-X or Tmax that wasn't excellent w/ just a bump on the exposure and maybe a little more time in the developer. The Foma darkroom papers were a PITA because they fogged so easily. I got tired of working in almost total darkness, and haven't found anything better than the Ilford papers. Well, the legendary MCC 110 FB papers were better but that is long gone.
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 02-17-2024, 01:24 PM  
XP2 or color negative film for scanning to b/w?
Posted By DaveInMass
Replies: 40
Views: 1,272
Thanks again everyone for all this good information. Having looked at the costs a bit closer, I’m now inclined to shoot “true” black and white. Turns out my town’s hazardous waste collection will accept darkroom chemicals, so I’ll just save up the spent fixer and hand it over to them. As for scanning color negs to B/W, I have many thousands of color shots from back in the days where I was processing C-41. I’ll pick some to scan and then experiment with “converting” to b/w using the more sophisticated methods mentioned above.

Dave
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 02-15-2024, 02:07 PM  
K-7 Appreciation - The Forefather Forgotten
Posted By StiffLegged
Replies: 354
Views: 43,240


Another from the same day on my trusty A35-105mm f/3.5.
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 02-15-2024, 08:55 AM  
XP2 or color negative film for scanning to b/w?
Posted By Wheatfield
Replies: 40
Views: 1,272
This isn't quite true. XP2 is a colour film using two dye layers that develop to a very deep purple-red colour, so deep that it looks like black.
The technical designation is "chromogenic" which is defined as "producing some characteristic color or pigment that is useful as a means of identification".
In this case the useful means of identification translates to a negative image that appears B&W.

ANY film designated C-41 or equivalent is a colour film.
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 02-15-2024, 08:50 AM  
XP2 or color negative film for scanning to b/w?
Posted By Wheatfield
Replies: 40
Views: 1,272
This will be problematic from an image permanence perspective. Processing XP2 in normal B&W chemistry imparts a silver image rather than the dye cloud image that is the end result of C-41 processing. This means the colour dyes and couplers are still resident in the film after processing and over time they will start to discolour and stain the image.

XP2 as I recall was a very soft film and easily subject to mechanical damage, much more so than the regular colour films I processed when I was in the industry.
Treat it gently.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 02-12-2024, 09:38 AM  
Lens advice for Faroe Islands
Posted By jgnfld
Replies: 17
Views: 993
I'm in Newfoundland which is related in many ways to the Faroes (plus their boats come here to fish consistently).

Some points:

--First off my go to lens pair is the 55-300 PLM and the 16-85 (I was never satisfied with my original Sigma 17-50 on landscapes). I have many others, but those two are the foundation. KP/K70 bodies.

--Parts of the land are BIG. So if you are thinking landscapes, you want a good lens for that. I've found the 16mm end of the 16-85 useful. That said, I've stitched panos in the midrange of the 16-85 with great success at times. As mentioned above, mid-tele landscapes can be excellent. Here is a 5x2 stitch of Holyrood Arm in NL (at full res--27 meg jpeg!--it prints beautifully with great detail). The peak to the right is exactly 1000' (and a very nice provincial park to boot). The bluff to the upper mid-left is a bit over 300' (and also has a mated pair of eagles on it!). The lower bluff to the right is ~400' with a 600' trail up there--and that's a very little bit of hyperbole! The Faroes have elevations 2 or even 3 times bigger, I think...





--You're North Atlantic maritime subarctic. Even in June the "spring" can be hanging on which means essentially rain, drizzle, and fog. Be prepared in camera gear, hiking gear, and photo-op ideas. You will have sun basically 24 hours (though some twilight depending on your dates), so you will have plenty of outdoor time. And even in June the North Atlantic can be cold and here we often still have ice (don't know about there). This was early June here as I remember...



--If you're looking for wildlife, do a lot of research first. If the Faroes are like Newfoundland, there are many VERY good facebook and other sites where photogs congregate. If you don't have a lot of time, some sort of guiding would be good. For example, tuna are becoming quite common again here like they used to be many decades ago. But a nonlocal has basically zero chance of seeing any. Some related situation probably applies there as well...



and of course local birders know where various species congregate...





EVERY local in St. John's knows this mated pair and the great location from which to photograph this nest (and I'm not really a birder)...




--BE PREPARED. I had my 55-300 on here when a minke suddenly came out of nowhere and decided to examine the underside of my boat. BARELY got this shot off at like 60mm.





If you've never experienced the North Atlantic maritime arctic/subarctic, it's unbelievably beautiful from Labrador all the way over to the Faroes and Svalbard. Bit harsh at times though! Good luck!
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 02-09-2024, 11:44 AM  
Good news! Kodak lowers price on 35mm Tri-X film
Posted By titrisol
Replies: 23
Views: 1,274
I used Microphen 1+3 for 23min agitating the 1st 30 secs and then every 2 minutes
Exposure was at ISO 320-400 but since I use old folders I like to have some latitude and that is why I use the extra dilution and slow agitation
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