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Showing results 1 to 13 of 13 Search: Liked Posts
Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II 11-28-2012, 02:31 PM  
Is the K-5 IIs dangerous...
Posted By RobG
Replies: 132
Views: 25,539
Doesn't give me nightmares. It only seems to be giving people who don't own a K-5iis nightmares.
Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II 11-26-2012, 11:19 PM  
Poll: K-5II or K-5IIs - which one will you choose if the price is the same?
Posted By pinholecam
Replies: 54
Views: 8,598
K5IIs.
The K5 improved to the point of perfection :)
And I'm convinced of that after using K5 and K30.


I'm not nik-picky over moire.
In fact,
1. It does not always occur (in fact seldom)
2. When it does, it usually does on very unimportant stuff (ventillation grilling; some far window grill so far such that the spacial pattern makes moire more likely; far roof tops; that sort of nonsense thing)
Those who like to nik-pick thru a photo looking at window grills and air-con vents to say "Ah! Moire!" need to get a life beyond their cold attics sitting in front of their PC. Get out and shoot more photos!
The potential to skip a step of sharpening and use that saved "post process mileage" for other stuff like levels adjustments, saturation, HDR, filters, local contrast adjustments, just means that the K5IIs is the definitive APS-C DSLR to date.
Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II 11-13-2012, 09:12 PM  
White Silo with K-5 IIs
Posted By foto guy
Replies: 8
Views: 2,130
Hit this at the right time of day.
Shot with a Takumar Super-Multi-Coated 28mm f/3.5 at around f/8, I'd guess.
This is one of those few shots that I like in color and black & white.




Forum: Pentax K-01 03-04-2012, 10:41 AM  
K-01 vs K-5 (JPG, DNG, ISO100~25600) - Full Size Samples.
Posted By frank
Replies: 82
Views: 35,284
Since last night's test was a bit rush. Tonight I did a similar side by side test again between K-5 and K-01. Just for a reference, I also added Panasonic G3 in the test so I'd see how a smaller sensor compares w/ the bigger APSC sensors.

Here is the testing setup:

1. indoor w/ ceiling light (a bit brighter than last night one so to help w/ manual focus), also around mid night to avoid light changes
2. tripod: Gitzo 1540, ballhead: Markins Q3
3. K-5 and K-01 had FA31 mounted, G3 had Panasonic Leica 25/1.4 on
4. both high ISO noise reduction and long shutter speed noise reduction were disabled on all cameras
5. all lens adjustments were disabled if there is an option there
6. D-range highlight/shadow correction were disabled
7. manual exposure mode was used on K-5 and K-01 so to keep the same exposure settings on both camera , Av mode was used on G3 (the camera has pretty good auto exposure in Av mode, and it's not a priority in this test, so I just let the camera do the job)
8. all cameras set to auto white balance (tried manual white balance, can't get any better colors than auto ones :( )
9. manual focus was used on K-01 and K-5, w/ focus peaking enabled on K-01 (enlarge 6x w/ FP), used live view w/ 10x zoom to help manual focusing on K-5. A few testing shots were taken and reviewed (enlarged to 16x) on back LCD screen to verify the focusing just to make sure I've done the best on focusing. Auto focus was used on G3 (again, this camera w/ PL25/1.4 just never fails on AF)
10. K-01 and K-5 were set to wireless trigger w/ 3 second timer, G3 was set to 2sec self-timer
11. aperture was set to F5.6 on K-01 and K-5 so to get more DOF and reduce the impact of focusing error. G3 aperture was set to F4 (which is probably the sharpest aperture for PL25/1.4 lens)
12. tested both in JPG and RAW (G3 only tested in RAW), ISO setting:100 (K-5 and K-01 only), 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400, 12800 (K-01 and K-5) and 25600 (K-01 and K-5)


From what I can see on my screen, the test results are pretty inline w/ what I got yesterday: photos from K-5 are a tad bit (1/3 to 1/2 stops) brighter than those from K-01 at the same setting, and again, K-01 photos seem a bit sharper (I've tried my best to focus properly on both cameras, and the AF results from K-5 under such light condition just can't compare w/ what I got w/ manual focusing in live view). High ISO noise evel is about the same, except at ISO25600 which K-01 isn't as good as K-5. I guess it's because ISO25600 is the extended ISO on K-01 while K5 ISO can be extended to ISO51200.

High ISO from G3 obvious loses to K-5 and K-01 in details and resolution, especially at ISO3200 and 6400. But it's pretty close or even slightly better at lower ISO (at least to my eyes). I guess the smaller 2x crop sensor isn't too bad at all.

Enough talk. Here I've uploaded all the original files on 4shared. I think you need to register an account (free of course) to download them. It's a free account, I don't know if there is any bandwidth limit. Sorry I can't find a better way to share such big files. File names are very obvious, you won't make mistake w/ the cameras and ISO settings on each photo:

4shared - K5vsK01 - shared folder - free file sharing and storage

There is a video file in there too, probably too short and too badly taken to show how capable this new camera is as a video camera.

Hope these can be some help to some friends who are interested in this new camera.

---------------------------------
Edit: I think most guys here don't really bother downloading all the original photos. Here I made some crops of each photo taken by every camera. The first one is center crop, the second one is crop of the right side. The sequence would be K-5, K01 and G3. All photos were converted from RAW by CS5 RAW Converter at default setting.


Here is the testing scene, taken by K-5, K-01 and G3 respectively:








Here are the center and right side crops:

ISO100, K5 and K-01










ISO200, K5, K-01 and G3














ISO400, K5, K-01 and G3














ISO800, K5, K-01 and G3














ISO1600, K5, K-01 and G3














ISO3200, K5, K-01 and G3














ISO6400, K5, K-01 and G3














ISO12800, K5 and K-01










ISO25600, K5 and K-01







Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 04-01-2009, 06:09 PM  
Tamron 28mm f2.5 BBAR MC adaptall 2
Posted By OregonJim
Replies: 10
Views: 10,242
I have this lens as well - it's a little strange in that you have to set the aperture ring to f/32 in order to use it in Av mode.

Also, my Adaptall 2 adapter says P/K-A, not just P/K. Without the "A", you'll only get stop-down metering.
Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II 01-30-2011, 11:11 AM  
The K-5 Lemons Continue the Pentax Saga...
Posted By Tom S.
Replies: 169
Views: 29,179
History will undoubtedly show that disgruntled K-5 owners were the initial cause behind the riots in Egypt.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 11-25-2010, 01:55 AM  
Camera Settings Exposed !
Posted By Frogfish
Replies: 23
Views: 5,219
Exposure Plot

I've just run this again to see what I'm shooting (it's a free windows software program from vAndel - freeware runs fine on my Mac using Crossover). Some interesting results !

Run on my Picture folders. What an eye opener, I'd never have guessed !

1. 17.62% @ 90 mm (guess that would be all my macro shots with the Tammy 90)
2. 10.35% @ 43 to 50mm (43 Ltd & FA 50/1.4)
3. 9.76% @ 10mm (Sigma 10-20)
4. 4.01% @ 11mm (Sigma 10-20)
5. 3.97% @ 60mm (various)
6. 3.87% @ 20mm (Sigma 10-20)
7. 3.69% @ 80mm (55-300)
8. 3.48% @ 300mm (55-300)

ISO

400 - 22.72%
800 - 16.55%
200 - 10.47%
100 - 9.92%
125 - 8.86%

Aperture
5.6 : 17.91%
4.0 : 13.47%
8.0 : 9.82%
1.4 : 5.50%
2.8 : 4.92%

Shutter
1/180 : 12.48%
1/200 : 12.48%
1/30 : 7.45%
1/125 : 5.72%
1/80 : 5.36%

Download it and give it a go !
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 11-21-2010, 09:38 PM  
batteries, rechargeable or not?
Posted By UnknownVT
Replies: 28
Views: 6,133
Of the common AA battery formulas - lithium are the "king" for cold temperature usage -
since climbing has been mentioned this may be relevant:

Battery Life

although anecdotal, most recognize that lithium are the way to go.

To be more factual the rated operating temperatures are as follows:

eneloop 0 to 50 deg C
alkaline -18 to 55 deg C
lithium -40 to 60 deg C

So alkaline will work better than eneloop in the cold -
and lithium will out perform alkaline.

Might also want to consider what Pentax actually say about using alkaline batteries in the manual:
K200D


and even the latest K-r when using AA batteries:
Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II 11-19-2010, 04:25 AM  
K-5 vs D7000 Softness test - Part 2
Posted By JohnBee
Replies: 30
Views: 14,321
For rendering(clean outlines etc) I like no. 3 the most
I can't comment on color registration etc because I can't tell. But at face value, that's what I see.

Also, its great to see IR took the initiative to fix the issue.
I complained on their forum about it as well as the D7000 when the posted those too(for underexposure). And since they failed to address the issue on the Nikon, I didn't have high hopes for the K-5. But as it turns out, I guess Pentax got plenty of support(DPReview and IR) this round.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 01-17-2010, 11:53 AM  
Tired of Digital Mayhem
Posted By Kirivon
Replies: 170
Views: 30,321
Alright, for all you who feel digital has killed your creative process, I have thought up a solution!

Step 1: Acquire a single e-dial camera. A K-x will do nicely.

Step 2: Write down the correct sequence of button presses to change to a certain ISO on a piece of paper, so that you can do it blind. Write down 100, 400, 800, and 1600 only.

Step 3: Make sure that use aperture ring is enabled in the menus (you may want to write this down too, just in case), set your white balance to daylight, place the camera in RAW, and pick your favorite ISO.

Step 4: Break your rear LCD with a hammer.

Step 5: Put your camera into M and then superglue down the mode selection dial. Adorn the mode dial with either the top of a winder, or a faceplate showing shutter speeds.

Step 6: Place your AF/MF slider in the MF position and then superglue it down.

Step 7: Epoxy over the exposure comp, green, play, LV, and AF/AE-L buttons. You won't be needing these.

Step 8: Buy a whole bunch of A or FA glass.

Step 9: Throw away any of those fancy 1GB + SD cards you may have, and instead buy a handful of 32MB capacity cards. Bring only one or two extras with you when you decide to go shooting.

Step 10: Upon completion of a "roll," mail your card off to a stranger along with five bucks. Make sure the stranger batch-processes your RAW files with auto exposure settings, and sends you back a CD with poorly encoded JPGs. Make sure he also keeps the SD card.

And there you have it! The complete film experience for the digital age. Ah, I can feel the nostalgia coming already.
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 10-14-2010, 01:05 PM  
K7: Even with Manual Focus it gives off the AF beep?
Posted By snostorm
Replies: 12
Views: 3,879
Just a minor point, but the red focus point indicator actually lights up just before focus is confirmed by the green hexagon at the bottom of the VF. The red LED is meant to indicate the sensor area used, not to confirm focus. Practically it makes little difference since the time differential is shorter than most people could react.

I don't see a confirmation of focus as being self defeating. For me, it's a great aid.

Scott
Forum: Post Your Photos! 03-29-2009, 11:01 AM  
Macro My macro photos
Posted By grzehoofr
Replies: 193
Views: 152,569
Thanks a lot:)
And now, it's the time to introduce my mantis (Sphodromantis)
1.
2.
3.
4.
Forum: Photographic Technique 09-24-2010, 12:26 AM  
Why is nature photography so boring?
Posted By bkpix
Replies: 227
Views: 50,344
The late David Joyce, an excellent and inventive photographer and artist in Oregon, used to have a cartoon taped to the door of his office. Titled Nature Photographer, it showed a guy with a big view camera and tripod, his head under the dark cloth. He was carefully focusing on the scene in front of him, which consisted entirely of an Ansel Adams calendar propped up on a chair.

This, sadly, is the state of most nature photography today, especially in the United States. Photographers of this school don’t actually photograph the world around them, even when they trek halfway around the globe to do so. Instead they photograph what a few bright minds have seen for them – this, and no more. When they travel to Yosemite they see Ansel Adams’ Yosemite. When they encounter a Sandhill Crane they see Arthur Morris’ version of a Sandhill Crane. When they look at fall leaves they see fall leaves according to John Shaw.

These photographers – who are often earnest and hard working and willing to spend a lot of money in this pursuit – buy books to tell them what pictures to take. They sign up for expensive seminars from famous photographers who show them what kind of lens and what kind of film to use to capture the world in just the same way as the famous photographer once did. They go online and trade advice about lens tests and film resolution and motor drive speeds, but rarely discuss anything beyond simple photographic technique – this f-stop, that exposure index. And then they sell pictures to magazines.

If they do discuss images, their criticism usually follows a seldom stated but unyielding set of rules, which say the photograph must be sharp, clear, classically composed and representational – basically, following the tenets established by the Photosecession movement a century ago. The irony, of course, is that the Photosecession was a revolt against the Pictorialist aesthetic then in vogue. Now, though, its vision represents a kind of 19th century French Academy, guarding the portals of photography against innovation.

You can sell a nature photograph to most magazine editors today only so long as it looks a lot like every other nature photograph published in the last 25 years. Any especially original photograph will be rejected — not, supposedly, because it’s original, but always because it’s too grainy, or too dark, or oddly composed, or otherwise violates the implicit rules of the game.

This kind of conservatism starts when you’re learning technique, and so beginners are often the most enthusiastic about enforcing its rules. It’s natural, while learning any skill, to seek to imitate past masters. Painters go to museums and paint copies of masterpieces. Good writers often memorize interesting passages of writing.

Photographers should emulate masterpieces, too. My complaint is that photographers, as a group, too frequently fail to move beyond this apprenticeship into mastery of their own. By setting their tripods in the footprints of masters, they limit themselves to a kind of visual stenography.

Obsession with technique and, especially, with technical rules is terribly prevalent in photography compared to other visual arts. (When photographers get together, they talk about lens tests. When painters get together, they talk about money.) For some photographers, indeed, photography is almost entirely about technique. While practicing technique can be a satisfying pastime, it rarely produces interesting art.

Today’s wildlife photography has a strong emphasis on producing clean, sharp images of healthy, charismatic animals shot on grainless film (now, noiseless digital files) with dramatic “golden hour” lighting. These certainly make marketable images in the contemporary market. But nature is bigger than this narrow representation. Animals, even more than humans, go through their lives injured and deformed. Few wild animals live in pristine wilderness areas; rather more of them contend with traffic on interstate highways on a daily basis than live in Eden.

Nature happens at noon, not just at sunrise and sunset. I’d love to see more nature photography that actually reflects the world outside, and not just the world according to nature calendars.

(I wrote this a few years ago on my blog, Bob Keefer Photography | Pictures of the American Northwest, and posted it here in a slightly updated form as I think it still applies.)
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