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Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
12-24-2013, 05:46 PM
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I would recommend trying a tripod. Personally I can go slightly over 200mm without a tripod and get keepers. after that tho I need a tripod to get sharp shots. The longer the focal length the more any movement is magnified.
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Forum: Pentax Q
11-29-2013, 09:49 PM
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Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
11-07-2013, 07:57 AM
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I wouldn't bother looking to post it with Ricoh they'll be less than interested that Apple cannot open standard v1.2 DNG's
This issue is Apples and Apples alone reflects poor coding IMO
as you've seen in this thread no well written programs have any issue with K3 DNG.
What is amusing is the other unix based OS's have no issue with K3 DNG able to display thumbnails and process with any number of Apps.
Its a shame when you pay such a price but 'ease of operation' has higher priority than actually working ! its the Apple way. :D
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Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
10-18-2013, 01:32 PM
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Rolling shutter is not a effect caused by SR, it's a scanning/refreshing phenomenom of all CMOS sensors..
Looking at all of OnfotoRu's K-3 videos I do see much improvement to the K-01. There's far less aliasing on diagonals and there is definitely more detail.
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Forum: Visitors' Center
09-08-2013, 03:47 AM
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Hello Thomas,
No, digital cameras don't need a UV filter, the UV protection is built-in. In fact an added filter sometimes can degrade image quality. More glass surfaces in front of the lens can create reflections and flare, particularly when shooting in the direction of a strong light source.
The best protection for your lens is a matched lens hood.
A circular polarizer (CPL) is one of the few exceptions to the 'no-filter' policy; It has an effect that can't be added or created in post-processing. A CPL, when used properly, will increase contrast, improve image quality and enhance colors.
The other filter that's sometimes used for digital photography is a neutral density (ND) filter; This has an overall darkening effect, used to slow down shutter speeds to smooth out water flow, blur moving objects and sometimes to even out extremes of light/dark areas. It is also helpful for timed or night exposures, again to create long shutter speeds.
Ron
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Forum: Pentax K-01
08-22-2013, 02:46 AM
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
08-08-2013, 03:06 AM
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As the name suggests, the Hoya 72 IR filters restrict the light striking your sensor to the 720nm and above range; in other words you're not going to get any color information from visible light. You would need a filter that lets lower wavelengths through. The Hoya 72 would restrict your available "palette" too much, even if you played with color channels, so you would never get any appreciable color separation among the features in your scenes. It's late and I'm tired (forgive me) but I believe the "false color" infrared images you see are usually using filters that filter light below 650nm or thereabout. You can buy a 590nm filter (which gives more "false color" but has a less extreme infrared effect) or a 665nm filter from a place like Spencer's Camera. Be aware, though, dealing with Spencer's is playing with fire, as far as I'm concerned.
The B+W IR Dark Red 092 filter blocks light up to 650nm, so that might be the way to go, and of course B+W filters are handled by guys like BH Photo. You can't go wrong buying from them. And of course, the Dark Red filters are not visually opaque, so you'll find your exposure times being far shorter and manageable! You would still need to employ custom white balance and mess around with channels and the like in post processing. However, I think you'll be much closer to your goal and much less frustrated!
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Forum: Pentax K-01
05-04-2013, 12:35 PM
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bracketing with remote
5 shot bracketing
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Forum: Pentax K-01
07-29-2013, 04:02 PM
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I shoot RAW and don't worry about the reduced FPS because the K-01 is not a fast action/sports/wildlife/active kids camera imho. More of a portrait/landscape/still life camera where you consider your shot in advance of pressing the shutter release.
RAW is always best.
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Forum: Pentax K-01
07-14-2013, 12:55 AM
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Oh, I only use the effect called "RAW" -- it's the best :D
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Forum: Pentax K-01
07-04-2013, 07:12 AM
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There are many different Pentax 50mm lenses. Here is a quick breakdown:
K series, M series: These were among the first 50mm K mount lenses. They are valued for their high IQ and have a cult status in the Pentaxian community. They have old lens coatings (old variant of SMC), so they need a lens hood for best performance. They don't have any digital contacts, because they are so old. There is no AF, you have to focus manually, and you have to input the focal length in to the camera manually if you want to use SR. You need to enable aperture ring in the camera menu to use them, and then you set the aperture on the lens itself. You can only use them in M (manual) mode and Av (but in Av they stay wide open, so its not that useful). These lenses have all metal build and they last for centuries.
A series: These have an aperture contact and the camera can control the aperture. That means they have a lot more automation. Still no AF. But long focus throw for manual focusing, and high quality output. They also have distance scales and aperture ring.
F and FA series: These have autofocus and all the automation of A series. These can basically be used exactly like modern lenses. The lens is no longer all metal.
DA: This is the latest incarnation, brand new. Not very good at MF (short focus throw, no distance scale on focus ring), but have fast AF. No aperture ring (so you can't use it on some old film bodies or on macro bellows), but full automation on digital cameras. Newest lens coatings, good against flare, made for digital sensors (less ghosting, great flare resistance). Lens has very little metal, so its very light and resistant to shock, but its also not as resistant to crushing and probably won't last 100 years like the older versions do.
50mm lenses come in different f-stops, which generally correspond to quality.
f2.0 are cheapest, decent, but not amazing. Cheap, often get it for free when buying old film camera.
f1.4 are very bright, allow very thin DoF, great quality. Relatively expensive, but still fairly priced.
f1.7 probably best quality, but not as bright as f1.4. Not very expensive. Very popular, kind of the "sweet spot." The DA version is f1.8 instead of f1.7.
f1.2 (not to be confused with f1:2, which is actually f2.0, be careful on ebays) - legendary lens, pretty expensive, rare, very bright, artistic output, but still high IQ.
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Forum: Pentax K-01
06-14-2013, 04:52 AM
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The obvious questions list,..
Yellow plug on Video input?
Correct input selected?
And the less well known question,...
Does your monitor require Audio connections to be in place, for the video to be displayed?
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Forum: Pentax K-01
05-26-2013, 08:09 PM
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This doesn't sound objective to me. The artist is the one who supposedly has an idea or emotion to convey. When an artist tells me he doesn't have a meaning to his work, and it is the viewer who puts meaning into it - "hidden meanings", I walk away. If he doesn't know what he wants to say, why should I bother looking or trying to make sense of it? Photos don't all have to be pretty, but they should have a reason to exist or there is no reason to look at them.
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Forum: Pentax K-01
04-25-2013, 09:03 AM
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Av = Aperture value (aka Aperture priority) where shooter sets Aperture value and ISO, and camera adjusts shutter speed to correctly expose shot.
Tv = Time value (aka shutter priority) where shooter sets Shutter speed and ISO, and camera adjusts Aperture to correctly expose shot.
TAv = Time Aperture value, where shooter sets Shutter speed and Aperture value, and camera adjusts ISO to correctly expose shot.
It sounds like your K-01 is working correctly in Av mode.
edit: I'm sorry, I misunderstood your 1st statement's meaning.
I originally thought your K-01 was adjusting it's shutter speed while you set the Aperture value.
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Forum: Pentax Q
03-25-2013, 08:34 AM
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The Q's tiny sensor is demanding on lenses. The best results from one I have tested are from the DA*300.
The lens needs to be sharp and fast on it's own.
In your picture above I'm also noticing a bit of haze or smoky look. We have found that some of the third party adapters require painting the internal with flat black to reduce reflections which cause this hazy look.
It won't help with the blurriness that is due to diffraction.
My testing with a Tamron 70-300 was similar to your results.
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Forum: Pentax K-01
03-21-2013, 01:28 AM
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Never liked the Canon aesthetic. Nikon are slightly better, but never seem quite right to my eye.
PENTAX have never had an ugly dslr body (in my view of course).
I'll be surprised if they can better the K-7/K-5 body design - in my view one of the most attractive dslr bodies out there.
The K-01 is **different** but not ugly. It might be a shock to the eyes at first, but it certainly grows on you. Canon or Nikon don't take risks..
Just to add, I also think the PENTAX Q is a handsome design.
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Forum: Pentax K-01
03-14-2013, 09:48 AM
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Welcome.
When mounting the 40mm XS make sure it CLICKs into place, the little line on it has to be at the top and not at the side. The lens can be a little hard to mount the first couple of times. Make sure the AF/MF switch on the camera body (near where the lens is mounted) is set to AF and that you have AF enabled in all the menus.
Make sure the lens contacts and camera mount are clean. It would be great if you can try another lens on that camera and another camera with that lens. When you have the lens on there and switch to Tv mode, what does it say on the screen? Does it actually say Tv or Av/M?
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Forum: Pentax Q
03-01-2013, 05:41 AM
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It's not just for jpeg shooting. With the Q the best apertures are at the wide end, because the effects of diffraction kick in around f/5.6 on those tiny pixels. So the time to use it is when you would otherwise have to stop down past f/4 or so even when using the fastest shutter speed. I must admit I haven't done this yet.
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Forum: Pentax Q
02-04-2013, 08:04 AM
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Like if a toy will damage your lens, any proof of that?
I already showed you a clip with someone using a hammer...
There need to be a serious impact if you want to damage a lens, and i almost certain a filter will brake with such an impact. And those shards will certainly damage the front element....
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Forum: Pentax K-01
01-28-2013, 02:06 PM
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I'm going to go off topic just a bit here and say something that I'm sure has been covered on this forum any number of times, but AF isn't needed to take great (in focus!) sports images, keep up with moving kids, etc. That said, seeing as my K-01 is still not here, I'm not sure how practical it would be to do these things (focus peaking or not) on a live view screen, but there are millions of action packed images that were taken well before the advent of AF. I know I used to take a lot of action images with no AF (and no flash for that matter) on high speed B&W film using a hand me down K1000 and Canon AE-1. Of course I'm not saying that a great AF system doesn't help and isn't/wasn't game changing, just that it is not necessary.
Sorry, ranting. I get tired of hearing that the AF system is the end all, be all of camerdom. That said, with my aging eyes, it is helpful ;)
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Forum: Pentax K-01
01-18-2013, 01:58 PM
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Not to discourage you but just buying another new camera is not going to automatically improve your images. K-01 or a dslr gives you the POTENTIAL for better images, but does not guarantee it. Especially coming from super zooms or P&S cameras there will be a learning curve.
I ended up with a k-x after following a similar path to you and the first month I really, really doubted my decision. I had been getting much better images with my P&S than I was getting with the k-x. NOT the camera's fault, but simply that I was used to 'point and shoot' without much thought to composition, exposure, shutter speed and so on. Once I got past that learning curve I am glad I did but it was a rough go the first month or so, especially after telling the wife how much better the pictures would be from the new camera.
If you are looking for compact APS-C camera then the k-01 will do nicely. You might also take a look at the Pentax Q if you want something small.
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Forum: Pentax K-01
01-20-2013, 07:51 PM
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Has mostly to do with sensor and processor. The K-01/K30 processor and sensor are much better optimized for shooting video, and yields far superior live view performance. The K5 sensor is not designed to dissipate heat as well. The extent of resulting compromise for still photography IQ does not appear to be much at all, so a job well done. Just a matter of more modern design. If anything, mirrorless on its own should overheat more easily because of constant use of the screen.
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Forum: Pentax Q
06-26-2012, 12:53 PM
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I have a ton of gordy straps laying around, those things are nice, I got a grimm wrist strap on my Q though, its like a gordy but made in england and it uses a softer italian leather and styled less rustic looking and more modern. I would also suggest getting an OVF of some sort, I have the pentax one but you can easily find a ton of them on ebay made by leica, nikon, canon and off brands that would work just as good. It makes a huge difference if your into street shooting, especially in bright light where the auto focus works impeccably, just shut the screen off save battery life and go snapping away with the OVF...
The summer kit... by Wandering Monki Photo, on Flickr
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Forum: Pentax Q
01-13-2013, 11:57 AM
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2. Hoods are my preferred lens protection and flare eliminating device.
Look on ebay for ones by uWinka or JJC. http://bit.ly/UX6yw4 |
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Forum: Pentax Q
01-13-2013, 09:25 AM
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1. cambridge in colour might be good buet that isnt a real tutorial
2. for standard lens proctection you don't need an UV filter or any filter. Lenses have a ultra hard protective caoting so for normal daily use you don't need any protection and for the rough things... i don't see how a thin piece of glass can help with that, it can help with corrosive elements like sea water and sand.
3. just go through the menu with your manual at hand and see what everything does.
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