Forum: General Photography
05-02-2022, 12:37 AM
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If anyone has had a wife/girlfriend who owns many shoes - they will know there are many different shades of white.
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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
02-24-2022, 06:32 AM
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You're quite welcome. Hugin is a great piece of software. It feels a little overwhelming at first, but once you get used to the various screens and processes it's fast and easy to use. There's a CLI utility with Hugin called align_image_stack that is also great for fast processing of exposure bracketed shots. For focus stacking checkout Enfuse and Enblend, also.
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Forum: Welcomes and Introductions
12-19-2021, 06:06 AM
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Welcome to the forum and to a "darkroom" in the light.
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Forum: Welcomes and Introductions
12-19-2021, 04:58 AM
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But no digital printing can match the fidelity of a good made Cibachrome... :D
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
05-12-2021, 08:06 AM
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The in-camera HDR settings/effects in K-1 are good to know about. HDR1 and HDR2 are often very useful but HDR 3 and espcecialyy "ADV" are exaggerated ("cartoonish"). This applies to JPG.
If you apply HDR to DNG (RAW) files, it's nothing but exposure bracketing. The result is stored in one huge DNG file, that contains all three original DNG's and a JPG preview, which shows the eventual "cartoonish" effects too. But the effectes are not included in the DNG's. Ricoh's DCU software can be used to separate the original DNG's out of the one "HDR DNG", and you can then play with those in post processing - e.g. merging them again with new adjustments. (At least in Lightroom).
My conclusion is: whenever I want to do HDR, I shoot in DNG+JPG mode and use HDR1 or HDR2. If the in-camera JPG is good enough, I keep it. If not (but the picture is otherwise good or at least promising), I keep the huge DNG, split it to the three originals and then see, what I can do with them later ... Some times the 'middle' DNG covers all the dynamic range I need.
May take some time to learn this, but if you're interested in HDR, maybe worth trying.
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Forum: Welcomes and Introductions
05-12-2021, 11:03 AM
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It sounds like you had a smart aunt, and a helpful one to boot! In a lot of ways, film cameras and digital ones work the same way. You can make great pictures with either one, depending on how deep you want to delve into it. One advantage of digital is it doesn't "cost" you anything if a photo doesn't turn out as expected versus the real cost of film. Another is you can often "save" a digital photo by doing some post-production work. The comforting thing about DSLR cameras made in the last few years is the technology they were based on has matured. Buying a top rated Pentax K1-ii camera now should ensure you won't need an upgrade for quite a few years.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
05-12-2021, 04:06 AM
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yes because most photo editors may not be up to date on PEF format in stead of hdr, try the highlight and shadow protect options, it looks at the overall dynamic range of the shot and rescaled the jpeg to give better detail in the shadows by compressing the linear part of the S curve, (less bits in greyscale in the linear portion) I went also from PZ-1 to digital, although earlier than you but the PZ-1 is a great camera. On my K5 and K1MKII I shoot TAV when birding with long lenses and let iso go to 6400 also, but for shorter faster lenses you need to be careful, as you can quickly forget where you are and over expose. Normally I shoot AV mode, and let the shutter go where it needs to when travelling around
Given 64 MB when I started on digital in 2003 was 20 x the cost of 16 GB today, photos are free. Shoot as many shots as you like, the camera records the settings and you can look at what you like and learn the best settings quickly.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
05-11-2021, 11:14 PM
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That is a good idea and useful for HDR processing. Instead of using the HDR mode in the camera, use your bracketed shots to create a HDR merge in software. I use Lightroom or Photoshop , but there are freeware versions too.
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