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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
10-31-2023, 12:31 PM
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Thanks. Yeah I love the sharpness and consistency of this lens. It does render starbursts or diffraction spikes which is good because I do love those. Night photography is tricky due to easily clipping and over exposing the bright parts or lit parts of a dark scene. I am now using various exposures and blending accordingly using various types of gradient blends. I must admit that it's really fun when equipment works well and it's down to the individual to get what they want/need out of it. Much better then fighting ill performing optics or other bits of hardware :-)
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
10-31-2023, 05:00 AM
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Hi all,
I haven't been around much lately as I have had a lot on my plate and life really took its toll.
Things have quietened down this October so I have managed to venture out to some of my favorite spots and do some more capturing. In my last posting, I was struggling badly with my 24mm Samyang (I think it was my last posting as I can't really remember since it was so long ago)
I have now switched to the DFA 15-30mm which has proved to be far superior in every way.
These are some of what I have managed to get:
Full albums are here:
Turville_10_2023 - Google Photos
Warburg_Henley_10_14 - Google Photos
Leith Hill_Combe Gibbet_10_2023 - Google Photos
Just as a side note: some of the astro stuff has been posted into the Astrophotography portion of the forum already ;-)
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
08-01-2023, 06:25 AM
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Maybe you are right. I might need to just start from one angle and let it develop. It's just hard when you have no idea what you want to do and can't really see the difference if the image is a little darker or lighter or the blacks are higher.
Recently I had a chance to use a little friend of mine as an assistant. Again she is on the autistic spectrum but quite eager and enthusiastic to many things. It was so difficult as all she wanted was a "photo"... I don't think she understood or was bothered by the fact that none of the images were in focus. She would take random things like signs and the kitchen (as we were shooting inside a center for people with disabilities). Basically, she just enjoyed using the camera and pressing the shutter.
In a sense I am a lot like this as well but I try to extract as much detail as I can because I can quantify this. The rest gets pretty confusing for me...
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
08-01-2023, 04:05 AM
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Looks like you've got lots of experience and knowledge :-)
Totally the opposite of me, as I've had my Pentax for over 2 years and just feel like I'm not getting anywhere. I don't think it's a learnable issue that I have unfortunately :-(
I am not too fond of post processing though I need to do this especially with astro where one needs to stack many images to increase signal. The problem I find with post is that I have no idea what I am doing. Unlike imaging where you can randomly point and shoot, randomly editing things doesn't work in the same way.
I think my next adventure will be to try to get some night shots done with this new lens and see how things work out in that direction. Hopefully something will work out :-S
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
07-31-2023, 09:39 AM
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Lots of people that I have spoken to that come over from the old film SLR days also think it best to get things right in camera first and spend as little time in post processing as possible. These people are also of the mindset of capturing what is there and not editing things so much that you create an artificial rendition of the scene....
Like I said, I use bracketing and not in camera HDR but I guess I do rely on what the software does with things. Rather then creativity though I find my approach much more a mechanical style of trying different things to shoot and seeing what I get later on after my 'template' processing has been applied.
Still, it's a great thing to have a lens now that can actually capture a scene and not smudge the content into mush....
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
07-30-2023, 06:50 AM
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Thanks so much :-)
No no, I didn't take your comment as a criticism at all. Rest assured I really appreciate yours and everyone's help and advice :-) :-)
I know I'm very different.... like I explained before I have ASD which is Autism spectrum so in general the strangest and most difficult ways seem to work for me while everything either mainstream or easier I have big difficulties with.
I'll have a look as to the screen and if there actually is a way to calibrate it... apparently I have no brightness control as the Nvidia driver for the RTX A2000 chip doesn't have this feature implemented for ACPI.
One step I can take I guess is to ask either on a RT mailing list or forum as to advice on how to process my images there.
Yes, I do use 'auto levels' for everything..... the problem is without it I have no idea what I'm doing. This is really difficult because I can't tell the difference either.... I mean for example you can raise the black point to extreme levels but who is to say that doing that is right or wrong? It becomes very subjective and a little ambiguous for me as I have no reference point.
Probably something I need to work on in myself and find the 'click' point where things make sense is really hard due to the mechanical and robotic nature of the condition I have.
I'm definitely going to keep working at it though and as @pschlute has just given some advice that I can quantify and actually try out in GIMP which can also do this, I have a template if you like to work from.....
Again I really am grateful and appreciate everyone's time and willingness to try to help get me to understand certain things!!
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
07-30-2023, 06:03 AM
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By selectively do you mean to specific areas?
So in PS or GIMP it would be by selecting an area then adjust tones. Maybe I need to read up on this as I'm not really sure I understand.....?
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
07-30-2023, 05:06 AM
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Thanks Peter, though I don't actually see any difference on my screen with the image... I am using a Lenovo P1 gen5 series laptop with factory color calibrated screen that is exceptionally bright and sharp. This machine is really meant for CAD applications though the graphics chip inside is not one of the AutoCAD certified higher power/price ones.
This is the actual histogram that I see in RawTherapee: Screenshot at 2023-07-30 12-56-52.png - Google Drive
I lifted the shadows by around 60%, I think your edit is probably lifting to around 80% which I think can also be done by lifting the mid tones as you have already done.
---------- Post added 07-30-23 at 05:23 AM ----------
Thanks @rpjallan :-)
I don't understand what you mean about "unconventional processing method"? If you are referring to the fact that I don't use a Mac or PC and PhotoShop then I guess it is correct. At the end of the day I need to use what works for me and my processing method maybe considered odd by everyone else but it's something that I found I can work with and get results with.
Regarding the HDR processing... there are many different tools out there. I have two installed on my system: LuminanceHDR and HDRmerge
Luminance HDR
HDRMerge
I find I am not able to get the type of result I want using LuminanceHDR. There are many different processing algorithms and settings which need to be tested and I am having difficulty developing something that works for my K1.
HDRmerge is a simple application that I think balances out the exposures and tries to get everything pretty much at 0EV in the file. Sort of like having many different layer masks in PS or GIMP for the differently exposed parts of the scene.
I like this tool because it gives a neutral and not overly done HDR look.
I did some more experimentation yesterday: College Lake_07_29 - Google Photos
This is with the 5 stop bracket you suggested previously:
The single shots (non bracketed merged HDR images) in the album where all taken at -1EV. I basically set the bias according to the red blinking in LiveView to just under which I think was also suggested above.
This one is a good example of a -1EV test using my 150mm. I didn't lift the shadows as I am happy with the look and differential between the light and dark areas:
---------- Post added 07-30-23 at 05:32 AM ----------
Actually I just tested lifting the mid tones on the first image I posted above.... I did it by one square which is probably +1EV. It looks a lot brighter but then the dark areas are all gone??
I'm not so sure :-S ???
Screenshot at 2023-07-30 13-31-24.png - Google Drive |
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
07-28-2023, 11:21 PM
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Thanks for the suggestion but what do you mean? As in what will the benefit be?
I am just about to head up to my usual reserve with the lakes soon so I will definitely try out your advice. It's just strange to hear this as I can't see anything wrong in my images outside of some from Thursday where the dark parts are really dark but they were 3-way brackets going between -4, -2 and 0EV, which definitely was a mistake. I should have not biased the camera to -2EV for those.
Basically just so I can understand what you mean :-)
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
07-28-2023, 05:25 AM
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Thanks so much! Yes just like I said before, it is a combination of things but at least now I can learn and move forward rather then having to work out why certain basic elements are not coming together. :D
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
07-27-2023, 03:58 PM
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Hi guys, wow!! Thanks for all of this :-)
This week has been and is still especially busy so forgive me for not coming back till now... I am really exhausted though....
The exposure reduction or shooting with a -2EV bias, I do in order to not blow out highlights as things like the sky easily clip in camera before you even get it to software. RawTherapee usually automatically adjusts the exposures up by around ~1.7EV.
I bought the DFA 15-30mm in the meantime which arrived on Wednesday and today I took some sample images with it. The difference is unbelievable! Unfortunately the lighting was poor today as it was rainy and overcast but that shouldn't make a big difference. I really tried to challenge the lens as much as possible and in doing so I think I hit on @UncleVanya 's statement that my issues were a combination of things.
For today's testing what did come in to play was: lens, shutter speed (depending on wind or breeze), and focus point. I used manual focus for everything as it's how I am used to working with the K1 in general... K3 mkIII users are lucky with the rear joystick if it can position the AF point like my Nikon D500....
To start with this one is 1/60s, f/16, iso 100. It's exactly what I was looking for rendition wise, crisp and clear details throughout:
This one was shot at 1/500s, f/16, iso400. The focus point was on the brickwork in the foreground. I am so pleased that the grass and flowers at the rear haven't turned into mush!
For this I focused on the white flowers just above the gate. Similar settings to the above: 1/500s shutter, f/16 and iso560
I am also pretty impressed with this one as I love the detail in the field....1/500s, f/16 and iso 1600:
I did do some 3-way bracket shots to test also though I need to upload them to my GPhoto's first. They also look fine and just as I would expect things to look though some of the single shots taken at higher shutter speeds maybe a little sharper - but this could be down to wind/breeze moving the foliage and flora around.
Once I have everything up I'll post the link for you guys to take a look ;-)
---------- Post added 07-27-23 at 04:12 PM ----------
Ok so here we go, this is the full test album using the DFA 15-30:
Warburg_07_27 - Google Photos |
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
07-22-2023, 03:56 AM
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They are the same images as posted above without the processing! The exposure should only be underexposed by 2 stops!!..... ?? The camera is set for matrix metering and an EV bias of -2; I can't remember if I was in full M mode or TAv mode but I always get the meter at the 0EV point (so -2EV with the bias). Though depending on cloud cover the exposure may vary by 0.5EV or 1 bar in the exposure meter.
File 8094 was brought up by 1.18EV in RT while file 8095 was brought up by 1.08EV in RT.
I don't recall the focus point for the 24mm exactly but I think it was the white flowers in the foreground is where I set the focus ring. This is image 8094....
8095 should have the focus point in the middle. I forgot how to move the spot on the K1 because it is a little clunky.... I should really have put the camera into MF mode and focused manually as I really don't get on with AF on my Pentax.
Regarding the Samyang, it does do this frequently I feel..... I will set the focus ring to get the white lines in LiveView as thick as possible at x16 magnification yet the actual subject will look soft in the rear display of the camera. No amount of moving the ring backwards and forwards will help things. It maybe that it needs micro adjustments which physically I cannot do???
It definitely does behave strangely sometimes.
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
07-21-2023, 05:10 PM
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I understand, however, the K1 exposures are all the same. The processing is also the same too.
Yes the Nikon is different but then it's a cropped sensor camera too... Sure I could set the shutter to 1/1000s and f/13 but the iso will be sky high on that body.
In each case the tripod never got moved either.
For processing I basically have a preset that apply to all my files. If anything I will adjust the shadows and maybe saturation and 'vibrance' parameters depending on the scene but that's it! In terms of Exposure... I always rely on 'Auto Levels' as for me it gives much better results then I can because I have no idea since to me everything pretty much looks the same :-S (again don't take this as me not caring, it really is just related to my condition and is quite difficult to explain) - though Auto Levels should not pose a problem at all I think.
---------- Post added 07-21-23 at 05:48 PM ----------
Here are the RAW files for the Pentax only if anyone wants to look at them...
24mm:
_IMG8094.DNG - Google Drive
28mm:
_IMG8095.DNG - Google Drive |
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
07-21-2023, 11:59 AM
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Hi all, finally finished up with processing of my collection from yesterday.
I think there is an improvement on all counts using the 24mm in some areas but the same problems do remain at other times. It actually did manage to render some flowers in the background and not smudge them out completely which is a good sign.
Here are the samples that I have collected - all images have been run through Topaz Photo AI then RawTherapee then ImageMagick several times to do different things like sharpen and resize - EXIF- f/13, 1/1000s, iso 200:
24mm (Samyang):
28mm (DFA 28-105):
Nikon D500 and Tokina 12-28mm @12mm - EXIF- f/16, 1/60s, iso 100:
I think overall I did manage to extract the best out of the Tokina and Nikon though strangely I managed to clip the sensor as the clouds appeared pink in some of the image RAW's :-S
There is nice detail in this one:
This is a 3-way bracket from the K1 and 28-105mm stitched using hdrmerge. It's a simple tool and only blends things together so unlike LuminanceHDR doesn't use any backend mathematical algorithms to interpolate the data. I am quite pleased with the left hand side, which may be a little tricky to see in the small resize but there are flowers there and not a whole smudged out scene of color wash:
Full album here for anyone who's interested ;-)
College Lake_07_20 - Google Photos
I still guess the DFA15-20mm is going to be superior on all counts though!
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
07-20-2023, 12:04 PM
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I hope this will go through as I tried to submit a reply but it claimed "Page not found"?
There are many photographers who are Neo Divergent as opposed to Neo Typical, that means that they either suffer from autism (ASD) or ADD/ADHD and their attention to detail is immaculate!
I am really not worried about doing things 'my way' because it works for me. Also my reserve loves my stuff which is why they want to use it and all the other volunteers look forward to seeing what I churn out as I 'portray' the hard work that they have all done and been a part of.
I actually do post process and use RawTherapee. What you are seeing is a preset that I have created in RT that uses the 'Auto Levels' feature and adds some other simple adjustments like 'Local Contrast' for a little bit more extra 'pop'. Though if the lens cannot render a good image with detail in the first place then it's pretty much useless. I always shoot in RAW format by the way ;-)
After this I use ImageMagick to sharpen things by using a factor of 3 generally. You can do this in GIMP too by duplicating the layer and adding a 'High Pass Filter' on to the duplicate with a value of around 2.5/3 and then using either 'Soft Light' or 'Hard Light' for very soft images before merging the layers.
---------- Post added 07-20-23 at 12:09 PM ----------
Yeah... and the lens looks clean. No moisture and no dust either.
As an FYI to everyone I have also done some testing today. I also ditched the Samyang in favor of the 28-105mm so let's see what that comes out with and of course I used my Nikon D500 and Tokina 12-28mm in addition just in case the images from the K1 didn't come out as I wanted.
Will post back with a few samples but have to go through my processing routine first, or to use a very 35mm film era saying: I have to develop the images ;-P
One thing that did bite me is that I forgot to set the Tokina to AF mode as it has a pullup/down clutch similar to my FA*300mm, so I'm not sure if the first batch of images will be in focus or not either.... sigh :-(
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
07-19-2023, 11:20 PM
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Thank you and I understand what you are trying to say, however you are talking about an 'art form' by mentioning image. This is different for different people and for some people with complicated conditions non-existent. Some people are just too mechanical and robotic to be able to understand the difference between 'art' or as you put 'image' and a collection of details. The whole point then becomes to focus on the details because they can be quantified and understood by the person capturing them.... there is nothing wrong with this! At the end, anyone capable of using a camera should do so in their own way.
Recently I was at a center for disabled people... I was asked to take some images of the inside of the center for a website that one group is building. What they did *not* want is artistic impression! They just wanted very dull and boring images of things like kitchens, and other rooms so that they could use that material online.
This group itself will not be able to capture 'images' like you are explaining if we held photo workshops with them. They don't understand the difference because to them everything looks the same....
If we want a high amount of detail then we need to start looking at macro work, sure I agree! Here is an example taken with my Nikon D500 and Sigma 105mm:
*But* it doesn't help the fact that it has nothing to do with my question of why my lens will not render meadows and fields which I was specifically asked to image (this time) ;-)
Not all PR based content needs to be considered art. Simple images illustrating a place or product is enough :-)
Anyway, I have to get ready to go now where I will make my tests (again hopefully) and report back later or tomorrow with a comparison between things
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
07-19-2023, 11:23 AM
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I actually used those images as an AF test bed as well!
Strangely I had to dial full negative AF fine-tune adjustment to get the AF on my FA*300mm to acceptable levels and even then they were off.
This one came out ok at 28mm:
though it still does lack that extra "pop" from the more expensive lens lineup.
It's strange... I have heard that the 15-30mm is even sharper then the Irix 15mm which is just a stunning lens and used by many for landscape and equally wide angle astro work.
This is why I am trying to debate between if it's better to go for the 15-30mm or the 20mm f/2 down the line.
Yes by the way, the coatings on the 24mm are really poor!
I posted this one up previously but welcome to Samyang 24mm hell lol:
Internal reflections coupled with lens flare :-(
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
07-19-2023, 10:00 AM
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I used the 28-105 some months back and I found it ok ish but somehow it didn't do anything for me...
This is a single shot at 28mm f/13, 1/250s and iso 100:
it's not bad but could be better.... I think there was enough light here for the lens to work properly but when that element goes then the lens really starts struggling. By this I mean even continuing on at f/13 things start looking a little less contrasty and well defined. They start smudging too and becoming blotchy.
This image I really do not like taken at f/8 at 105mm:
the moss is where I wanted definition to be but it unfortunately has smudged the whole thing. I really kicked myself after that as I had my Irix 150mm in the trunk but just didn't go grab it :-(
Well... I'll take the lens along tomorrow in any case and cross compare as much as I can.
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
07-19-2023, 06:07 AM
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Hmm... I mean right now I only have the 28-105mm which isn't really going to give me a better result and is the reason why I always use the 24mm Samyang since it's the sharpest lens I have aside from my telephoto's.
Maybe if tomorrow is a bust like I think it will be, I might start looking at the 15-30mm which is far superior in every respect aside from aperture size only being an f/2.8 - which is still fast for a zoom and more constant to manufacturer unlike f/1.4's.
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
07-19-2023, 05:02 AM
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Hi all,
yesterday was really manic and I didn't get time to get to the other side of the reserve in order to test out imaging the areas that I did before and also try out my Nikon and Tokina combination to cross-compare in general. I will be doing so tomorrow with a bit of luck!
What I did manage to do is make these tests.
This one was shot at 1/20s with M.UP (something you can't do using LiveView and I actually have the blackout cap on over the mirrorbox of the camera so it was a bit clunky setting this one up), f/13 and iso 100:
This was done using 1/500s shutter in LiveView at f/13 and iso 1600:
This was done using 1/1000s shutter in LiveView at f/13 and iso 3200:
To me they are all pretty smudgy and blurry :-(
The focus point was the leaves at the top in the foreground just left of the tree trunks and fencing. Even zoomed in, in LiveView everything looked pretty smudgy and not how I would expect it to look like as per many other images from different people/lenses/camera bodies.
As I thought initially, it may just be a problem in that this lens doesn't have the local and micro contrast capability of more expensive lenses which are seemingly optically superior.
I will post back some more results tomorrow and hopefully we can get to the bottom of this properly.
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
07-17-2023, 08:06 AM
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This of course assumes that PS is the software being used in the first place.... :-) :-)
I use a command line shell scripts (non compiled programs essentially run at the terminal level - think way back to the 1970s and 1980s on how computers used to look) to achieve certain results and RawTherapee for the rest ;-)
I know Adobe tools are really popular and the mainstream thing but I am actually quite allergic to point-clicking and get really confused with it all... I like RT, it's something that I have developed a workflow in and can get the most out of my images without loosing the 'natural' look. In fact all I do these days is just use my pre made presets then adjust a little bit here and there where needed....
---------- Post added 07-17-23 at 08:13 AM ----------
I think you understand more of my situation though I have no idea who you are talking about lol :-P
For me being so mechanical and robotic internally, I have no concept of beauty, art or anything really that is either emotionally or feeling derived. The only thing that's left is to randomly pick places and see how things turn out. Usually there are places that I feel comfortable being that make for the best results because I am relaxed enough to use the camera properly uh.... how many times have I blown images out by over exposing portions and not realizing or even thinking about it? Ok there has never been a time where I left the cap on by mistake but if there is something new I need to do the first that will happen is panic.... then the shots will all go to hell :-(
With macro which I am most comfortable in doing, recently I have not done it for a while and everything came out completely black even with the flash! Then I realized that my flash levels were too low and I wasn't paying attention to shutter sync speed or even iso ... uh...!! grrrrr
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
07-17-2023, 05:32 AM
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You are absolutely right and are giving solid advice. What you are saying about biz-engineer's approach is also valid... in fact I like the way he/she gets straight to to the point and is completely direct in communication. Unfortunately due to my condition (autism spectrum) I don't understand things like hints or subtleties so the way biz-engineer is putting things really works well.
The difference however, is approach. The standard approach of everyone is to use something called a 'top down' approach which is basically seeing the wall and not worrying about it's makeup or foundation. What I am doing here is using a bottom-up approach and instead paying attention to each brick and the detail within the brick to create a solid foundation.
Unfortunately due to my condition I have no concept of art so the way photography makes sense to me is to play with the camera and just try different things. One thing I can concentrate on is details and rendition because I can quantify these and they make sense to me...
call it a mechanical or robotic approach if you like.
It's also quite common for me to pick a certain element in frame and only focus on that while blocking everything else out... so I basically don't even notice or see it.
Hopefully once I have dialed in the details I can then take the next step and start looking at different elements like composition.
Do note that when I say HDR I am not using in-camera HDR but 3-way brackets then using a tool called hdrmerge to put them together. I find it works better the LuminanceHDR which gives very over exaggerated results. I will need to ask and see on the forum at some stage about if anyone has a workflow for that as it doesn't seem to work well with my K1.
Also in terms of where I am imaging, it is a little tricky with timing. Basically, tomorrow I will have 3 hours to play with then I need to pack the camera up and take my post as I am stationed there. I need to do whatever I can within those 3 hours... if I arrive a little early I may get 4 hours to play with but the site locked when not open. The reason I am sticking to this place is that this is where I need to make certain shots work. Right now nevermind about interesting or boring.... this is quite subjective anyway and 10 different people will give you 10 different answers. Before I have a good foundation to work with it doesn't really matter what gets imaged if everything is coming out like it has been under heavy Gaussian Blur algorithms :-S
Ultimately sure... I am actually following a Colorado based website called PhotographpyLife. Yes I agree that landscapes are made so much better when you have things like mountains and valleys around with running water in addition. Around me there is nothing like that and all I can get is fields and hills in certain places.
If anything I find that I am most happy with my macro work, though it's difficult for me to keep calm enough to remember the correct settings and even what I'm doing with the camera. I have had some nice wildlife (aka bird) shots too but too much bird stuff does get boring after a while.
Perhaps a lot of things will be training my brain to keep the settings and certain 'check points' in the foreground of thought rather then getting lost within the extreme noise that's already there. Essentially somehow I need to figure out things that will work for me and my way of doing things ;-)
---------- Post added 07-17-23 at 05:46 AM ----------
For pano's I use Hugin and it works really well! The problem with panorama's is you need to think of doing the panorama first and that's also the reason there are specific tools to assist in this which mount to a tripod head and also you need a flatter field in lens which wide and ultra-wide lenses don't have. I think the range for pano's is something like 50-100mm??
Again like focus stacked macro's this is taking things to the next level. It's like trying to make a ham sandwich without having bread or butter... if you don't have the key components then either it won't work or won't be a great sandwich in the first place.
I was actually talking about methodology and approach since I am not even thinking about panorama's right now.
Remember I am asking on how to get separation and detail between stalks in meadows and how to get flowers looking like flowers and not mush.
Between us we are sort of the difference between beginner and totally confused (me) to advanced level (you) with an approach system that works and a workflow to maximize things out of that approach. I'm no where near there yet ;-)
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
07-17-2023, 03:08 AM
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I'm glad you put things this way and yes panorama's are really interesting! They don't help with wide angle meadow or flora shots though which is what I'm trying to do....
This is one of my favorite images of all time, a 2-shot panorama taken with:: You guessed it, my 24mm :-P
It's an excellent night time lens when it doesn't flare up or go crazy with internal reflections.
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
07-17-2023, 02:18 AM
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This is the thing, everyone has a different style and different approach. What works for one person may not work for another.
My workflow usually starts out with an Rsync, after that I am in RawTherapee and then if I need to I will use ImageMagick to post sharpen stuff, then using IM again to copy the EXIF from the RAW over to the jpeg and as a final step I use the 'rename' tool to add the level of sharpening to the file name, followed by another Rsync....
For my Nikon things get more convoluted: Rsync, Oracle VirtualBox and Topaz AI Photo to denoise, then RT and then finally ImageMagick,then using IM again to copy the EXIF from the RAW over to the jpeg and as a final step I use the 'rename' tool to add the level of sharpening to the file name, and followed by another Rsync ;-)
In fact I mostly use shell scripts to perform the needed tasks on my images since I personally work better that way
But* this does not have anything to do with what I am asking because what I am trying to understand here is in-camera :-)
We are off-topic here but here's my K1 with Tripod and Irix 150 imaging some Scarlet Elf Cup Mushrooms:
I never use it with my Nikon and 200-500mm zoom but here we are in any case, I just sat it on top in order to just pose for this image:
---------- Post added 07-17-23 at 02:18 AM ----------
You might be right here!
Like I said I do have a different camera/lens to cross-compare with so I'll see what happens tomorrow
---------- Post added 07-17-23 at 02:20 AM ----------
This may also be a really valid point :-)
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
07-16-2023, 04:23 PM
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I will try this. It's claiming to be overcast on Tuesday so light should be better.
My tripod is pretty sturdy as I use it for deep sky astro with Astro Tracer so I have no fear in that respect, but I will do exactly this: M.UP using 2sec timer, try with higher shutter and of course higher ISO, focus to around hyperfocal, no 3-way brackets, also compare with my D500 and Tokina 12-28mm, then start praying and then some :-P
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