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Forum: Pentax K-r 03-14-2012, 06:53 PM  
Kr: short contacts to change aperture when using M42 lens ?
Posted By newarts
Replies: 27
Views: 11,427
Do what JimJohnson said above: Here's a step by step photo series.


I think a piece of thin copper wire pulled from a lamp cord would work well as a substitute for the aluminum foil.

In use, I turn the ewheel f-number as low as it will go and manually preset the lens' aperture. The EXIF is wrong but the exposure is right because the camera doesn't try to close the aperture (I've told it to use the open aperture.)
Forum: Do-It-Yourself 09-01-2012, 10:23 AM  
DIY Lens Hoods - no math required
Posted By newarts
Replies: 33
Views: 33,428
In the equation Hood.diameter=Lens.diameter(Hood.depth/focal.length +1) the term in the parentheses must be bigger than 1 (because 1 is added to another positive number, so hood diameter must be greater than lens diameter - probably you used (hood.depth/(focal.length+1)) instead of
(hood.depth/(focal.length)+1).

Here's a better equation and a description of where it came from.


using your numbers and the above equation

Hood diameter > Hood.depth*sensor.width/focal.length + lens diameter = 21*24/28+20 =38

With film, sensor.width is 36, not 24 so the hood diameter should be greater than 21*36/28+20=47, so I'd expect vignetting at the corners.

Dave in Iowa
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 09-23-2012, 05:34 PM  
Sharpness
Posted By newarts
Replies: 31
Views: 3,980
Your K-5's specifications are 4928 x 3264 (16.3 MP) with a 23.4 x 15.6 mm CMOS sensor. That's 4.7 microns pixel spacing. The diffraction spot diameter for f:22 is:

d=2.44*N*(.55 microns)= 2.44*22*0.55=30 microns!

That means when you shot the photo, each infinitesimal spot of light was spread over a disk more than 5 pixels in diameter. When displayed at 100%, each point of light in the original scene is spread over 5 pixels on the display (almost 1mm). No wonder it looks fuzzy!

To prevent strong diffraction effects at 100% display, your f-number should be such that the diffraction spot radius is about the same as the pixel spacing. In your case,

N ~ 4.7(microns)/1.22*0.55(microns) ~ 8

Or, avoid high enlargements at high f-numbers.

Dave in Iowa
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 08-03-2012, 11:54 AM  
Relationship between distance and sharpness
Posted By newarts
Replies: 31
Views: 6,319
I wondered about why a lens might vary its performance with distance to the subject. What's different about light entering the lens from a subject 2 focal lengths away and a subject 200 focal lengths away? The answer of course is the curvature of the light's wavefront.

Consider an f2 lens; the aperture is 1/2 the focal length. Here's a diagram of the geometry in this case:


It is reasonable to expect that designing a lens for optimum focus on a flat image plane depends on the curvature of the wavefront entering the lens.

From this it follows that good macro lenses are designed to meet this condition - hence may not be so good for subjects at long distances from the lens.

It also implies that reversing a normal lens stacked on a primary lens may be helpful when using them for close-up photography. If a subject is placed at the focal point of a reversed lens, light reflected from the subject will exit the reversed lens as parallel illumination (light does not know which direction it is traveling through a lens). This light then enters the primary lens as if it were originating at infinity - if the primary lens was a normal lens it probably does a good job at creating an image.

Dave in Iowa
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 08-04-2011, 02:25 PM  
Lens Focal Length Rip Off.
Posted By newarts
Replies: 48
Views: 10,709
Ok - no math.. .:)

There are two ways to get an image in focus

- use a particular focal length lens and vary the lens' distance from the sensor (old way)
- use a particular distance from the sensor and vary the lens' focal length (new IF way)

There is no guaranteed advantage to either of which I'm aware. Except maybe long IF lenses can be smaller and lighter than nonIF lenses.

Say we have two 100mm lenses: one purely IF and the other nonIF; when they are both focused at infinity the focal length of both is 100mm. When focused closer than infinity, the nonIF lens is moved away from sensor to bring the subject in focus, while the IF lens' internal elements are re-adjusted to a smaller focal length to bring the subject into focus.

I believe that most IF lenses actually change both the focal length and distance from the sensor simultaneously. A Zoom lens is a type of IF lens in that the focal length and distance to the sensor are changed simultaneously.

There is no magic going on; when two lenses are stacked a new, compound lens is formed. The new lens has a focal length that depends on the original focal lengths and on the distance between them. So if you move one lens with respect to the other the focal length changes.

There is no image or magnification created by an IF lens that can't be created by an equivalent nonIF lens although for the IF lens you won't usually know the actual focal length for a subject not at infinity (you could maybe calculate it if you want.) See my next post regarding a difference in magnification/perspective)
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 07-16-2012, 09:34 AM  
Why are my BW IR pix fuzzy?
Posted By newarts
Replies: 37
Views: 3,883
Here's a time-of-day discussion: Best Time of Day/Lighting Conditions to Shoot Infrared - Photo.net B&W Photo - Film & Processing Forum by Helen Bach , May 15, 2007; 12:41 p.m.

Broadening of the in-focus diffraction disk in proportion to IR wavelength is certainly an issue and diffraction softening will be a problem at around half the f-stop for normal light. This is a general problem and the longer the wavelength of the radiation, the greater the broadening.

There are three main actors in this play: the sun's light, the lens focus of the particular light and the sensor's response to it. First, a typical sensor's response:


Your IR filter probably lets radiation from about 700nm through. The Red component of the Bayer filter responds to all the wavelengths above 700nm while the green & blue components don't begin to respond until about 800nm is reached.

Now look at the typical solar radiation vs time of day:


The cyan curve shows the sun's brightness at various wavelengths at sunup (sundown) while the blue curve shows brightness at about 10:40am. Clearly the fraction of 700-800 nm illumination is much greater at mid morning than when the sun is low in the sky. Such 700-800nm light will be "seen" by the red Bayer sensor but not by the blue or green sensors.

I expect that focus is much worse in the 800+nm illumination band than in the 700-800nm band for two reasons: first is the lens was designed to work for a mean around 550 nm & the greater the deviation from that wavelength the worse its sharpness will be, second, the limiting blur for a lens is proportional to the wavelength used.

If this these phenomena are causing your problems (and they are certainly contributing to time-of-day variations,) using an external filter that cuts off IR above about 800nm would be helpful. Similarly, you might just use the red portion of the spectrum for the image to be displayed.

Dave in Iowa
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 07-15-2012, 01:59 PM  
Why are my BW IR pix fuzzy?
Posted By newarts
Replies: 37
Views: 3,883
I suggest you do a test to see if you can take a sharp IR photo under any circumstances: Perhaps a large newspaper page shot at an angle so that a strip of it is in focus. That'll tell you where the true focus lies and how good it is. Use a tripod & delayed shutter to avoid motion blur.

Can you tell us more about the conversion? Was the hot-mirror replaced with an IR filter (what IR filter?) or is it broadband?

If it was a broadband conversion was a clear compensating plate substituted for the hot-mirror?

If you'll post a clip, we can look at the individual color channels.

What camera & conversion service?
Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories 07-13-2012, 05:14 PM  
Coupling ring for extreme macro: advice?
Posted By newarts
Replies: 13
Views: 3,018
I see, I thought you meant the 1:1 image from the macro lens didn't fill the viewfinder in that it was vignetted, while you meant the magnification wasn't high enough. A 200mm or 100mm macro lens set at 1:1 magnification would give you exactly the same results as your 35mm macro lens.

Your viewfinder shows you what the sensor sees & the sensor is 23.6mm wide. You can estimate the magnification you need by dividing the sensor width by the subject width; for a 5mm water droplet, mag = 23.6/5 ~ 4.7x would fill the screen with droplet.

These estimates needn't be precise so it can be useful to think in terms of inches. The sensor is roughly 1" wide; a magnification of 2x would cover an area 1/2" wide, 4x would cover 1/4" etc.

Dave in Iowa
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 07-06-2012, 10:12 AM  
2 Lenses with different focusing distance
Posted By newarts
Replies: 22
Views: 2,961
What you see is probably a result of lens design details; When we say "distance from the lens" what do we mean? from the center of mass? from the glass of the front element, rear element, what?

A camera lens has two positions that are important, the front principal plane - where the lens appears to be when looked at from the front and the rear principal plane which is where the lens appears to be when looked at from the back. These positions are chosen so the thin lens equations work.

Here's an example of a real zoom lens and how its principal plane locations change with focal length.


It would not be surprising if the front principal plane locations for your 28mm prime and 28mm zoom to be very different and help explain the focusing distance differences you observe.

Dave
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 05-25-2012, 01:27 PM  
K10d infrared filter??
Posted By newarts
Replies: 13
Views: 2,633
Green & Blue Bayer filters are typically opaque in the very near IR but do a good job transmitting from ~ 800-1000 nm. This enables one to do multicolored IR work.


Separating the RGB channels, using appropriate weighting factors, and mathematically adding and subtracting color channels allows some separation of IR bands. Red minus G+B is a band from 700 to about 780nm, Green-Blue ~750 - 800nm, B ~ 780 - 1100+nm

Here's an image taken with a 720nm filter, no PP, showing real IR coloring effects (the blue color of the sunglasses corresponds to long IR wavelengths.)


Dave in Iowa
Forum: Lens Clubs 05-10-2012, 10:13 AM  
The Raynox Macro club
Posted By newarts
Replies: 947
Views: 302,504
I was wrong in blithely saying your math looked reasonable without checking it.

When dealing with real lenses one must be careful in the application of thin lens optics equations.

1/f = 1/object +1/image is true when the object distance is measured from where the front of the lens appears to be (called the front principal plane) and when the image plane is measured from the image to where the rear of the lens appears to be (called rear principal plane.) In the case of a simple, single lens these planes are not far from the center of the lens. These locations are chosen such that the thin lens equations work; in particular that magnification, m = (image distance)/(object distance).

I think we are confusing a couple of terms, focusing distance, which is the total distance from the image plane to the object and working distance, which is the distance from the front principal plane ( "front of the lens") to the object.

The lens thickness, the distance between front and rear principal planes, is usually left out of the discussion entirely. For example, the thin lens formula for focusing distance is object distance + image distance = f(1+m +1 +1/m) which leaves out the lens thickness entirely; it is the optical focusing distance not the physical distance which includes the lens thickness, and can be either positive or negative.

Here's an example of where the front and rear principal planes are for a DA 55-300 at various focal lengths, infinity focus(remember that when the lens is focused at infinity, the image distance must be exactly one focal length from the rear principal plane)...

Notice that when focal length is greater than 200mm both rear and front principal planes are out in space in front of the physical lens.

Now what happens when a close-up lens is put on the above lens? The lens stays where it is in space but the focal length & principal planes change. in particular, the focal length for original lens f' and close-up lens f" becomes

f=f'f"/(f'+f"-d) where d is the separation. Let's say d = 0, f' = 300, and f" = 208 (Raynox 150),

f=300*208/(300+208) = 123 mm

The original rear principal plane was 300mm from the image plane & if the rear principal plane doesn't move, the result is a 123mm lens 300mm from the image plane - this is a magnification of 300/123 - 1 = 1.44x and a working distance of

WD= f(1+1/m) = 123(1+1/1.44) = 208 (very close to the Raynox focal length!)

In practice it turns out that the distance from the close-up to the subject is 208mm which must mean the front principal plane of the combined lens has shifted to the close-up lens itself. This makes some sense because the actual front principal plane of a simple close-up lens will be very close to lens itself.

It turns out to be true that the front principal plane of the combined lenses stays close to the front principal plane of the close-up lens regardless of where the front principal plane of the original lens was in space or what distance the close-up lens is from the original physical lens.

So no matter what the spacing between the close-up lens and the original lens, the new front principal plane of the combined lens is close to the physical location of the close-up lens.

Dave

PS I don't know if the manufacturer includes lens thickness (+/- distance between front & rear principal planes) when specifying the "minimum focusing distance". I'm guessing it does include the lens thickness.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 05-07-2012, 01:21 PM  
50mm 1.7 Pentax-M vs Pentax-A
Posted By newarts
Replies: 19
Views: 12,150
There are a number of ways to do this ranging between:

fast & crude: cut out the bent part & glue in a uv filter with no glass or a step-up/down ring if you prefer.

Slow & elegant : make a wood cradle with the same curvature as the outside radius & a piece of a wood cylinder. Use the cylinder to shove the bent threads back against the wood cradle; this will protect the threads from too much damage. Do this until a step-up/down ring can be threaded in and glued in place.

EDIT:
Easier & pretty elegant: tighten a screw tightening type stainless steel hose clamp around the outside of the bent filter ring. This will be the form to guide the bent part of the ring as you squish it back into place. Use a piece of hard rubber, soft plastic, etc between the plier jaws and the filter threads.

I suppose one could cut out a section of another filter ring to use as a buffer between the pliers and bent ring - this should complete prevent munging the inside threads on the bent part if the threads are meshed before pressure is applied. This may result in a repair so good it does not require a new threaded ring to be glued in place.

Dave
Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II 05-02-2012, 09:19 AM  
Focus stacking with special hw Stack Shot and sw Zerene
Posted By newarts
Replies: 50
Views: 12,491
Nice work!

Apparently the learning curve is not all that steep - or, more likely, you are a quick learner!

Congratulations,
Dave
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 04-29-2012, 07:47 AM  
Non-Pentax K bellows unit - lens won't stop down
Posted By newarts
Replies: 7
Views: 1,794
Two solutions come to mind:

1) The problem may be that the camera doesn't know a lens is mounted when the bellows is in place. To see if this is the case, short out all the camera mount electrical contacts with a piece of aluminum foil when mounting the bellows. If the green button now works, make sure the mount pins are touching bare metal when the bellows is mounted by removing finish, etc...

2) Counter-rotate the bellows so the lever is no longer activated then drill a new hole in the mount end of the bellows so the locking pin engages at that rotation. Then when you mount the bellows it'll stop and lock in the new location & allow the use of the lens' aperture ring.

I hope the first solution works. If so, you'll have a valuable bellows!

PS I'd like to see this bellows, unfortunately your link fails.
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 04-28-2012, 07:21 PM  
Nikon>Pentax adapter for a toy lens not avail in Pentax?
Posted By newarts
Replies: 23
Views: 5,339
Here's what I did with the help of a Dremel tool with an abrasive disk. A medium file would work too. Please excuse the sloppy drawing - looking down on upside-down adapter:


Good luck... It'll work - mine mounts twisting either direction...

Dave
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 04-20-2012, 06:27 AM  
An 'A' lens setup…?
Posted By newarts
Replies: 53
Views: 5,668
That's correct - the lens does not report the f-stop or its range. Preset means you close the aperture to the setting you desire and it closes to that value right away, before focusing (although some focus wide open then change f-stop to shoot.). I do not find this to be a problem as I seldom use f-stops higher than f:5.6.

In camera metering works fine with the green button

I made an easy, reversible modification of my camera's mount so it thinks all lenses are "A" type. This lets P-TTL flash work properly with all lenses and allows me to set the proper lens f-number to be recorded in EXIF (adjusting the viewfinder's report of f-number has no effect on an m42 lens). I have found no downside to this mod.


Dave
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 04-19-2012, 05:49 AM  
What to do with my kit 18-55
Posted By newarts
Replies: 19
Views: 2,119
The reversed kit lens works well for a wide range of macro magnifications. A piece of flexible tubing can be used to control the aperture lever (friction holds the lever in place).


The photo strips below the lens are images of an LCD screen showing magnifications - a 0.188mm repeating pattern.

Dave
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 04-11-2012, 03:07 PM  
What do you need for photographing the moon and the planets ?
Posted By newarts
Replies: 21
Views: 5,651
Here's a good starting place for choosing a lens for the moon & planets by Lunar Photography


This illustration (posted earlier in this thread) should be a good starting point for making a choice.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 03-27-2012, 01:35 PM  
What do you need for photographing the moon and the planets ?
Posted By newarts
Replies: 21
Views: 5,651
Thanks! I [heart] diagrams!
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 02-16-2012, 07:37 PM  
Are teleconverters worth using?
Posted By newarts
Replies: 119
Views: 16,007
Here's a test I just did with my equipment. About the only time I'd use a TC is when I can't get close enough to use my DA 55-300 cranked all the way out and wide open so that's what I tested. With my Kenko 1.5x on the 55-300 @ 300:5.8 autofocus still works even though the actual f-stop is about f:8.7. I see no big difference between the photos. (Cropping was the only processing done with Picasa on jpeg output)
Forum: Photographic Technique 02-09-2012, 12:37 PM  
What is the smallest thing I could resolve with a DSLR?
Posted By newarts
Replies: 26
Views: 5,437
This is may be an ideal case for really cool work, especially if you can set up for "dark field illumination". In this case the field is brightly illuminated from the side so that if there's nothing in the field of view, it is dark - however, if a small bubble enters the field it will act as a point source of light - that's how we see bubbles in the first place. It is easy to see the effect by placing a jet black background behind a glass of soda water - side lighting of the bubbles creates bright, beautiful points of light.

In dark field work there is no limit to how small a bubble or droplet can be detected - so long as it scatters light you'll know it is present, but there are some limits to getting an accurate image of it. If a bubbles image is smaller than an individual sensor pixel we are at a limit: that is, if only one pixel lights up, all we can say is there is a bubble equal to or smaller than that size.

Two things to consider are the lens & its optics and the sensor; both have potential limitations.

Sensor
The K-x sensor has some 4288 pixels in the sensor's 23.6mm horizontal direction for a pixel diameter of about 5.5 micrometer, so that effectively sets the lower limit on the size of a spot of light that can be detected. However, the camera also has an AA filter that smears that out a bit so the pixel size is a fuzzy limit at best.

Lens
Diffraction spreads a point of light into a disk. The equation relating the disk size (Airy Disk) in this situation is:

Diameter = 2.44N(1+m/p)Wavelength

where N is nominal f-stop (what the f-ring says), m is magnification, and p is pupillary ratio (diameter ratio of apparent exit :entrance apertures

N(1+m/p) is called the effective f-number & can be found experimentally; set your lens at zero mag & point it at a uniform light source. Note the exposure time, then extend the zoom to the magnification you need & note the new exposure time; The ratio of the exposure times is the (1+m/p) factor.

The wavelength for blue light is about 0.4micrometers, so the disk diameter in blue light is (assuming p=1):

diameter(micrometers) = 2.44N(1+m/p)(0.4) ~ 2N(1+m)

If we set the airy disk diameter equal to that of the sensor pixel, it will indicate the optimum f-number to use; for the K-x at 1:1,

N=5.5/(2(1+1) ~ 1.2!!!

This would be right for a perfect lens, but our lenses are not that good! Presuming that optimum sharpness is around f:5.6, the Airy Disk diameter will be

Diameter = 2(5.6)(1+1) ~ 22.4 or about 4 K-x pixels

This should enable the imaging of the two opposite walls of a 20 micrometer bubble.

Set your flash to shoot sideways, parallel to the field in focus. Increase the flash speed if needed to stop motion.

Good luck, it sounds like fun.
Forum: General Talk 01-31-2012, 04:30 PM  
Separation of Church and State:
Posted By newarts
Replies: 69
Views: 5,079
I'd like to say goodbye to "In God we trust", "Under God", etc. They imply a relationship between rule of law and the authority of religion which does not, and should not exist.

While I can see some kind of Deist rationale or equating God with the Natural Universe & mathematics as pretexts to hide behind, I'd sooner not encourage those who'd like to see more of God's patronage over our government.

On the broader question of "Do you believe in separating church from state." I'm bound to say that because the answer must be NO for any true believer, I must say YES - separate religion from government at least until everybody agrees on the correct religion.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 11-12-2011, 08:17 AM  
Is there too much emphasis on having everything in focus?
Posted By newarts
Replies: 22
Views: 3,191
Some of us are more subject oriented than others. I like full face portraits, macros where the subject dominates the photo, etc - in many of my photos edge sharpness doesn't matter or can detract from my purpose.

A good case in point is the use of the Raynox close-up lens for macros; here's a nice macro posted here recently by Beregeded:

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/lens-clubs/74221-raynox-macro-club-23.html#post1709155

Looks great to me! But here's a test showing the edge sharpness for a Raynox 150 on a good Macro lens (Tamron 90:2.5):

Without the Raynox 150, the edges of the photo are just as sharp as the center. with the Raynox the edges and corners are poor. The top-most of the crops shows the upper-left quadrant of the full photo... Notice the in-focus area is in a disk about equal to the frame height.

But this is the sharpness distribution for the lens used to take the macro posted above - clearly the edge softness inherent in using the Raynox had no practical effect.

Edge quality matters a lot for wide angle lenses - one of the main reasons to use a wide angle lens is to see what's at the edges of a scene - otherwise why use a wide angle lens?
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 01-28-2012, 02:55 PM  
where exactly is my DA55-300 in space?
Posted By newarts
Replies: 2
Views: 2,296
Have you ever wondered exactly where your lens is in space? Like when they say the distance from the lens to the subject is 0.42m - is that from the glass -if so, which glass?

Perhaps you've heard of "principal planes" which are imaginary locations in space that act like they are the real location of a lens (looking from the front) - "Front Principal Plane" and "Back Principal Plane" (looking from the back of the lens. These locations are chosen to insure the thin lens optics equation work correctly*:

1/focal.length = 1/image.distance +1/object.distance where image.distance is between the image and the back principal plane, etc.

magnification = image.distance/object.distance

Formulas for compound lenses are often simple like this one for the focal length of stacked lenses of focal lengths f' and f" separated by a distance d.

f=f'f"/(f'+f"- d) where d is the distance between neighboring principal planes - one front and one back

So I wondered where these principal planes might be for a modern Internal Focus zoom lens like my Pentax DA 55-300mm 1:4-5.8. I focused the lens at infinity and added a small extension; some object was in focus for each zoom setting. I used the distance from the lens to the object and magnification measured from the photographs to locate the principal planes in space. Here's the results:



The principal planes when the zoom is adjusted to 300mm float freely in space completely outside the physical lens! The extended lens is less than 300mm long; and the back principal plane for a 300mm lens focused at infinity must lie one focal length in front of the image plane (sensor) - therefore the back principal plane must be outside the physical lens. The back of the virtual 200mm lens happens to coincide with the front end of the physical lens.

At an effective focal length of 100 mm front & back principal planes virtually overlap - somewhere in this focal length region the virtual lens may have a negative thickness ! Finally, the 55mm virtual lens has Principal planes that look normal.

I don't know of any practical purpose for this data, I figured it out as a matter of curiosity and to see if my experimental methods would work (they did.)

Comments are welcome especially if they can point out any practical value for such data - other than to increase our wonder that the theory and its practice should be so much like magic.

* This brilliant scheme to simplify the mathematics of optics was due to the great mathematician, Gauss (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carl_Friedrich_Gauss).
Forum: General Talk 01-23-2012, 05:28 PM  
Political doublespeak example...
Posted By newarts
Replies: 0
Views: 1,397
H.R. 3699 proposes to:





QuoteQuote:

To ensure the continued publication and integrity of peer-reviewed research works by the private sector.



By this law:





QuoteQuote:

LIMITATION ON FEDERAL AGENCY ACTION.

No Federal agency may adopt, implement, maintain, continue, or otherwise engage in any policy, program, or other activity that--

(1) causes, permits, or authorizes network dissemination of any private-sector research work without the prior consent of the publisher of such work; or

(2) requires that any actual or prospective author, or the employer of such an actual or prospective author, assent to network dissemination of a private-sector research work.



What it means is that the federal government cannot require (and perhaps not permit) people or institutions (like universities & publishers) to release federally funded research results to the public at large..

This is an outrageous use of language to mask purpose and unfortunately is typical of political speech. The results of federally funded research should rightly be the property of the public.

See: http://thomas.loc.gov/cgi-bin/query/z?c112:H.R.3699:
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