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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
09-06-2010, 01:44 PM
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Both bodies are K10D. The one that went to Pentax repair backfocused, at least with the lens I mainly used on it - the 21mm DA. They fixed that and I have no more focus problems. But I want to reiterate that exposure was fine before Pentax repair got their hands on it.
I suppose I might have sent the body back to them but did not want to risk damage in transit nor having Pentax mess up something else. The fix for the underexposure problem is simple - set exposure comp to +1. I mostly use AV mode except when shooting with an off-camera flash (Vivitar 283) triggered by the built-in flash. then it's in M. Exposure is fine with that setup but the 283 is set at one of the Auto modes and that pretty much takes care of the exposure. I tried a few shots in M without any flash and the camera still underexposes about 1 stop unless I compensate by overexposing by 1 stop.
It seems that the issue is with the K10D meter system, at least after Pentax repair "fixed" it.
Richard
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
09-06-2010, 10:20 AM
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Interesting thread but I wonder what some of the posters would make of my experience with one of my K10D bodies. When it came back from Pentax repair (focus issue, which was fixed) it consistently underexposed by about 1 stop in any meter mode, exposure mode, and any subject. Previously it was pretty much on the money as is my other body which has never been in for any repair. Why? Other than the repair, the only other thing Pentax did (as far as I know) was upgrade the firmware to version 1.30.
Richard
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
07-18-2010, 12:22 PM
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I routinely use a 283 in conjunction with my K10D but the flash is NOT mounted in the hotshoe. Rather, I use the built-in flash to trigger it via a Wein "peanut" slave that fits neatly in the 283. Works like a charm and enables me to position the flash anywhere in the room. The flash is attached to a gizmo I bought from Spiratone about 40 years ago that enables you to attach any hotshoe-type flash to a tripod or lightstand. The gizmo in turn is attached to one of the quick-release plates I have for my tripod, enabling it to sit flat on a table, bookcase, etc but sometimes I attach it to that tripod, which then functions as a lightstand. I set the camera for Manual exposure and the flash to one of the Auto modes (usually the "red" setting). I like to bounce the flash off the ceiling or a wall, all of which are more or less white. Also, I shoot RAW exclusively so any exposure/white balance adjustments are easily done in ACR.
Richard
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
06-30-2010, 12:10 PM
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When one of my K10D bodies came back from Pentax repair (AF problem, which they fixed but they also installed the latest firmware, which I didn't ask for). it consistently underexposed by 2/3 or 1 stop in every light situation, any meter mode, or exposure mode, including manual exposure. With all my "pancake" lenses too. Before I sent it in, the exposure was pretty much on the money. I decided not to send it back, figuring the risk of damage in-transit or subsequent screw-up by Pentax repair was too great. Instead, I set exposure comp at about +1EV and I get correct exposure (I mostly shoot in AV mode). But I sometimes tweak the exposure a bit in the RAW converter.
If I had a hand-held meter I would use that to check the exposure thus bypassing the camera's meter system but I don't. I wonder if anyone else has tried this.
By the way, my other K10D body works fine, exposure-wise, and has never been in for any repair.
As for the color, I shoot RAW exclusively and handle that in Photoshop (CS4), often pumping up the saturation (selectively), especially my scenics.
Richard
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
04-17-2010, 10:15 AM
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When one of my K10D bodies came back from Pentax repair (autofocus issue), it consistently underexposed by about 2/3 stop, regardless of exposure mode, including manual. Same story with all meter modes and any subject or light condition. I mostly shoot in AV so I corrected with Exposure Compensation rather than send it back to Pentax. I didn't want to risk them screwing up something else. Previously the exposure was right on the money.
Oh, they did manage to fix the autofocus problem.
Richard
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
02-12-2010, 01:43 PM
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I've used the O-ICK1 a couple of times on both of my K10D bodies in conjunction with the Visible Dust Sensor Loupe. It worked fine but I rarely see dust on my images anyway. I almost never shoot at apertures smaller than f/11.
Sometimes I check the bodies by shooting a blank wall at f/22. I can see a faint smudge near the corner on one of the bodies and a couple of small dust marks on the other. They are not visible on any of my images so I don't bother trying to clean them off.
When I first contemplated buying my first DSLR, I must confess that I was really paranoid about the dust issue. Not anymore. It's simply a non-issue for me.
Richard
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
02-09-2010, 01:00 PM
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I have used the Pentax O-ICK1 Cleaning Kit on both of my K10D bodies. My experience has been that it works fine, even on "sticky" dust. Safe (it's made by Pentax expressly for their DSLR's) and easy to use. I believe both Amazon and Adorama have it, cheaper than when I ordered it a couple of years ago from Japan.
Richard
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
01-30-2010, 11:35 AM
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I'm considering buying a Vivitar DF 283 Digital TTL Shoe Mount Autofocus Flash for my K10D. Has anyone here had any experience with this flash?
Richard
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
01-16-2010, 01:58 PM
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Pencil and paper? Quill pen is the only way to go, preferably made from a turkey feather.:lol:
Reminds me of writers who insist they use a typewriter rather than a computer because it makes them more "creative".
Richard
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
10-12-2009, 02:15 PM
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I've used the Pentax O-ICK1 Sensor Cleaning Kit on both of my K10D bodies with excellent results. I seems to remove even "sticky" dust. The Visible Dust Sensor Loupe makes it easy to see exactly where the dust is located. Neither of these products is cheap, though, but in my opinion well worth the cost.
Richard
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
09-27-2009, 10:59 AM
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If you think THAT's insane, some clown on Amazon has a "new" Olympus C5050 on sale for $2006.00!. It's been up there for quite a while, no takers, not surprisingly. This was a nice P&S of a few years ago (I have two of them) but nowhere near that price. Maybe this guy is hoping some idiot will bite.
Richard
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
08-29-2009, 09:46 AM
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I posted a query about this on an existing thread but saw no reply. So, my question is how can I order a replacement part from Pentax (USA), specifically a bottom plate for the K10D. From what I have read, others have ordered parts from them . Anyone have a link or phone number? Thanks.
Richard
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
08-28-2009, 09:52 AM
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Where exactly is this Pentax parts department? Link? Phone number?
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
08-25-2009, 08:25 AM
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Not sure what you mean by loading into Photoshop. I assume you mean you download the images from your camera to your computer's hard drive, then direct Bridge to the folder where they reside.
I use a SanDisk card reader and 2GB cards and never have a problem. I think card readers are a better method than doing it directly from the camera.
Richard
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Forum: General Talk
07-06-2009, 09:46 AM
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I agree wholeheartedly. I went to Pentax mainly because of their primes (but also the in-body stabilization). I now have all three "pancake" lenses and they are the only ones I use.
Regarding lens cost, I notice that the current price (B&H) for the DA 40mm is $50 higher that what I paid in 2008. That's a lot. On the other hand, the price of the DA 21mm is $40 LESS than what I paid in 2007. Go figure.
I'm probably the only one to say this but for me the main attraction of the K7 is the metal body. Still have a chip on the corner of the baseplate of one of my K10D bodies, though it has no effect on the camera's functioning. Probably would affect its saleability, not that I would ever bother trying to sell it.
Richard
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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
06-30-2009, 06:15 PM
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Thanks for the info. I'll keep it in mind.
Richard
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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
06-30-2009, 04:58 PM
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Perhaps. But previously when I upgraded from PS7 to CS, then from CS to CS2, I got the activation window during installation. Those were upgrade disks. And my computer was connected to the Internet each time.
I suspect that Adobe changed the activation process with CS4 (and maybe CS3). Who knows.
Richard
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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
06-30-2009, 04:17 PM
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I installed it from a disk I bought from B&H via a link on the NAPP website. No shipping charge.
While I installed it I also registered it. I think the registration page came up very early in the process. However, Adobe's website says registration and activation are two separate things so I don't think it was activated simply because I registered it
While installing, my computer informed me that the software was seeking access to Adobe (my McAfee AV has this feature). Once was after I registered and once again later. Perhaps the second time was an automatic activation.
One other thing. When I opened CS4 and clicked on Help, one of the options in the drop-down menu had the word Deactivate. That suggests to me that the program was indeed activated.
Richard
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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
06-30-2009, 02:32 PM
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I just upgraded from CS2 to CS4. Previously, upon completion of the installation of CS and CS2, a window appeared asking me to activate the software. However, when I finished installing CS4, no such window appeared. I was connected to the Internet during installation so maybe activation was automatic. Anybody know?
Richard
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
06-27-2009, 05:43 PM
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Were you using the flash?
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
05-21-2009, 05:42 PM
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I guess we are agreed that it's dust on the sensor. I won't get into the canned air battle except to say that I used it for years - to blow dust off my transparencies. For my K10D I use the Pentax Sensor Cleaning Kit in conjunction with the Visible Dust Sensor Loupe. The Pentax kit works like a charm, is safe (it's made by Pentax after all), and easy to use. I usually use the Giotto Rocket Blower first and that does the job most of the time. But in truth I seldom have to use any of this stuff, mainly because I rarely change lenses and almost never outdoors.
Richard
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
05-09-2009, 08:43 AM
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As others have said, it's old news and just another plastic body. If it were really made of titanium I would buy it in a heartbeat. I hate plastic bodies. Never mind titanium, how about a body made of some magnesium alloy like the Big 2 have. Even my Olympus P&S cameras are made of metal, though to be fair, Olympus doesn't make them that way anymore either.
Richard
Richard
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Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories
05-09-2009, 08:33 AM
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I got a chance to handle the Zigview (with my K10D) a while back and wrote an article about it: NYIP - Zig View | NYIP
It works ok as long as you understand its limitations.
Richard
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
05-09-2009, 08:22 AM
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I also use the Pentax kit and recommend it highly. Adorama usually carries it though I see they are currently out of stock. I also suggest the Visible Dust Sensor Loupe, an LED magnifier. Easy to see exactly where the dust is located.
Richard
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
05-02-2009, 10:11 AM
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When I received my new DA 40mm I took one look at the funky hood/cap that came with it and threw it away. Instead I bought a 49mm Pentax snap-on cap (actually I bought 3 of these) and a 49mm metal B+W lens hood. I also have the DA 21mm and did the same with that lens (different B+W hood) though I kept the cap.
I suspect I'm the only one here to go that route but this arrangement works very well for me.
Richard
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