Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
02-26-2015, 04:56 AM
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Hi, I'm a photojournalist from Portugal and I've always used Pentax cameras in my work. Previously I've owned a K-5 and currently I'm using a K-5II, which I find it quite capable camera.
In my work I travel all over the country and in a small country like Portugal you quickly end up knowing all other photojournalists. In four years I've never came across any other photojournalist shooting Pentax. As you might guess they all use Canon or Nikon. More recently a friend of mine started to use two Fujifilm cameras and I also came across two guys using a Fuji and an Olympus as a second camera.
I can’t compare my camera with cameras from other brands because I've never used any other brand. But comparing the K5II with the K5 I would have to say that the K5II has a much better autofocus system. With the K5 I had a lot of problems with autofocus especially in low light, bright backgrounds and with certain types of artificial light sources. I was spending more time checking for accurate focus then in composing. All this ended with the K5II, a few days after starting using it all my worries were gone. I was finally shooting paying attention to the composition trusting that the camera was focusing accurately! Nowadays I simply assume that the out of focus photos have been my error not the camera.
I also have a K10 but I can’t actually compare it with the K5 or the K5II because I’ve never used it in my work, in other words, I've never used it the same extreme conditions.
Photojournalism is quite demanding when it comes to focusing, you need the camera to focus fast, accurately and in the most extreme lighting and physical conditions - most of the time you are being pushed, squeezed and bumped by other photographers, cameramen, reporters and the public and it’s hard to keep the camera still. Other times you are walking backwards and shooting at the same time or you are holding your camera up high with one hand using live view to shoot over the crowd. Things I like about the K5II
(From the point of view of my work) - The autofocus, is accurate and fast enough for me. I must add that I don't do sports, many photojournalist that I know also do sports, mainly soccer, but I don't.
- The size - I've small hands and the K5II body size is perfect for me - much better than the K10. This also allows me to use a relatively small shoulder bag with the camera, 3 lenses and one speedlight.
- The weight, for obvious reasons. I should mention that main arguments the Fuji/Olympus users talk about is size and weight and the electronic viewfinder and its ability to see the exposure compensation in real-time. That’s really handy.
- It’s only 16MP - for me this seems to be a good compromise between image quality, cropping capability, file size and computer processing times.
- It’s silent.
Things that could be better - I desperately need cross type focusing points outside the central area. If the K3 had this I would have bought it. Probably 50% of my photos have the main subject outside the central area. What is going on around him, where he is or with whom he is its always extremely important. To be able to show it I have to move my main subject to the sides of the frame and I need focusing points there.
- Writing speed to the SD card. I'm constantly reviewing what I shoot. I usually don't burst shoot more than 3 or 4 frames, but when I do I end up waiting for the camera to write it to the SD card before being able to review and shoot again. Not a frequent issue for me but sometimes under pressure it feels like an eternity. Browsing between photos it’s actually fast enough but using the directional keys is not always very practical when you go back and forward. The Canon wheel seems more practical but it also needs more space, more space means a bigger camera and I’m not interested in a bigger camera.
- I like to choose the AF Point so I always shoot in the Focus Select mode. Once again the directional keys are not very practical or fast enough. With more than 11 AF Points something like a small joystick might make more sense.
- One thing I miss from the K5 is the ability to compare photos side by side. If I remember correctly I didn't use it very often in my professional work but in my personal work or while traveling without a computer I used it a lot.
- A brighter and bigger viewfinder is always welcome.
- Another luxury feature I would like is a screen brightness automatic adjustment system like smartphones have. I frequently change from full bright daylight to indoor darkness. I've my screen adjusted for bright daylight but this setup makes underexposed indoor photos look correctly exposed.
- And of course even better high ISO. Usable high ISO is never enough. I would no doubt frequently use 6400 or even 12800 ISO if it had enough quality.
Why I haven’t upgrade to the K3
Cameras are like viruses. If they find the proper environment to spread they will. For cameras the right environment is something I don’t have – money! So I’m immune to that virus. I obviously would like to upgrade to the K3 and the main reason I didn’t was money.
Another reason that made me stop was file size and what that implies in terms of storage capacity and computer processing times. Future experience might prove otherwise but right now I don’t really need more resolution. More resolution would (probably) only increase the cropping capability but I’m really close to the physical limit there. To crop even more I would also need lenses with more resolution. Right now my laptop is able to deal with the K5 files comfortably I’m not sure if that is still true with bigger files.
But the main reason for not upgrading were the AF Points. If the K-3 had cross type AF Points beyond the central area I would have bought it. Actually I would like to have AF Points in the extreme corners of the frame! Future Pentax FF
It was with enormous joy that I received the announcement of the Pentax FF. We are still far from knowing the specification but this will be a camera that I will most certainly buy - but probably only after the first price drop.
And now some photos. Angela Merkel, German Chancellor, with Pedro Passos Coelho, Portuguese Prime-Minister, during her visit to Portugal. Pedro Passos Coelho, Portuguese Prime-Minister. I would like an AF Point where his eyes are. Portuguese Prime-Minister arriving at a Conference in Tivoli Hotel in Lisbon. I enjoy these top views a lot. Here I wanted to frame the big circle on the pavement. The bridge on the background is a Golden Gate Bridge look alike and is one of the architectonic symbols of Lisbon. I wanted to catch the bridge but I knew I would
be in trouble with the strong bright background. I took my chances and then photoshoped a lot. The photo has an HDR look which gives it a surreal look.
Mariano Rajoy, Spanish Prime-Minister, with the Portuguese PM during the XXV Portuguese-Spanish Summit.
I like these photos, like the one above with Angela Merkel, where you have the feeling that you’re intruding on a private conversation.
Them again, two years later, during the next Summit.
Boris Tadic, President of Servia, visit to Portugal. Not a very interesting photo but very fun to do. This is a handheld panorama of 4 or 5 frames.
Before the car with President Boris Tadic arrived I shoot the 5 frames of the panorama mentally taking note where the corner of each frame was.
When the car finally arrived and he stepped out I re-shoot the frames that I needed.
Portuguese PM visiting the “Champalimaud Foundation” in Lisbon. I like the simplicity of the composition. Once again the main subject it’s
on the extreme right because I wanted to show the logo on the wall and tell the viewer where he was.
Same visit. Good architectonic buildings are always an inspiration. This particular place has a glass roof (skylight) creating a huge light contrast between
the corridor and the surrounding ares. When editing the photo I noticed the geometric shape of the corridor and intensified this difference.
PM talking during the "KPMG Gala". Simple composition taking advantage of the geometry created by the light.
Fredrik Reinfeldt, Swedish Prime-Minister with the Portuguese PM.
Fredrik Reinfeldt, once again. Just to show you the city of Porto on the background. The city that gives its name to the famous “Vinho do Porto” (Port Wine).
Juan Manuel Santos, President of Colombia, during his visit to Portugal.
Nicolas Maduro, President of Venezuela, during his visit to Portugal.
Portuguese (ex) Minister of Economy talking to the press. Once again a top view and a very simple background. My colleagues on the left look really busy :)
Portuguese PM giving an interview for a TV channel. The web environment gives you the freedom to play with such compositions.
Portuguese Prime-Minister in his Office during an interview for Brunswick Group. Some photos simply ask for B&W.
PM visit to the “Machado de Castro National Museum.” The focus is on the statue in the extreme right upper corner.
Same Museum. It was very dark, I think its ISO 5000.
Another panorama during the visit to the same Museum.
Another panorama – It seems that I need to buy an extreme wide-angle. PM on the right bottom corner.
I particularly like this photo. It was taken during the PM’s visit to the “Ancient Art Museum” in Lisbon. The Museum is full of Oil-paintings and the photo looks like one!
That's it.
P. S. - I've been reading this forum since 2007 so I would like to thank all those who make it possible. Thx
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
01-05-2013, 01:47 PM
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I was originally going to post this in the K5 section of the forums, but considering this is more about the setup and such rather then the camera I added it here. The K5/II/IIs, K30 and such all have basically the same sensor anyhow. This is my first Astro image with the K5IIs outside of the city.
So let's start, often the most common question I get is what kinda camera/lens I'm using. So I'll include my setup as best as I can. Imaging
Camera: Pentax K5IIs (previously used K5)
Telescope: Orion 8" Astrograph 8" F3.9 Newtonian. 8" f/3.9 Newtonian Astrograph Reflector Telescope | Orion Telescopes Guiding / Tracking
Mount: Skywatcher HEQ5 Pro. I had this mount with my old telescope before I did much imaging and incorporated into my imaging setup. When I bought a new scope I was tempted to get the 10" Newt, but because of weight issues I decided to aim under and save myself the $ on purchasing a new mount. TELESCOPE SUPPLIERS - SKY-WATCHER TELESCOPE
Auto guider: I use Orion's "Magnificent Mini AutoGuider Package". I honestly not sure how such a small scope and the software can keep the stars so clean on a 800mm-1500mm scope but it works and that's the main part. The software used is PHD Guiding. It's free which is always nice. I believe it also came with the Autoguider package as well.
Auto Guider: Orion Magnificent Mini AutoGuider Package | Orion Telescopes
PHD Guiding: PHD Guiding Stacking Software
DeepSkyStacker is my primary image stacking software as it is free and it works well. However for this particular image I used PixInsight as I'm using the one month free trial and I have to say I quite like the program. the below image is without flats, and it removed the vignetting in basically a 2 step process. Either or are great programs. There are many more out there thou, and one of those may work for you as well.
DeepSkyStacker: DeepSkyStacker - Free
PixInsight: PixInsight — Pleiades Astrophoto Other
While I've yet to get into narrow band filter setups there are a couple accessories I do like to use.
Laser Collimator: I use Hotech 2"/1.25" SCA Laser Collimator, any will do to start tho. No matter how much I adjust the mirrors indoors, once I ride out of the city and its sitting in -15C or colder, it always needs readjustments due to contraction. Hotech 2"/1.25" SCA Laser Collimator
Coma Corrector: Baader RCC1 Coma Corrector. Baader Planetarium Rowe Coma Corrector - OPT Telescopes
Intervalometer: I've ordered this one but have yet to get it due to Christmas backorder. However this will help a bit as I won't have to stand outside in said -15C to -25C weather with the basic pentax wireless remote for each frame. Don's Photo | Product no longer available[name]=H%C3%A4hnel-Giga-T-Pro-II-Wireless-Timer-Remote-Control-for-Canon-remote&catalog[product_guids][0]=823995
Here's a picture of the setup after a hour and a half before I took it apart due to clouds.
And the final result...well I'll probably tinker with the raw data for some time and see what I can push out of it.
Exposure Data:
4 x 480s Exposures
9 x 300s Exposures
Total 77 Minutes
No Flats/Darks/Bias |
Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands
05-29-2012, 10:55 PM
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Spent Memorial Day weekend at a neighbor's cabin on a remote Northern lake with some kids, loons, dogs,
and D800 + older glass.
First, a reiteration of my earlier opinion: This camera is fairly remarkable. The files have a crisp, sharp
'reality' that is harder to come by at lower resolutions, and there is a bit more headroom with acuity and
noise control and PP in general, even when shooting in difficult conditions. I don't know if the 'usable'
range of this camera is really described by the math or an understanding of the QE capabilities of the
sensor - it has to be experienced by shooting in common situations, and working with the files. In my
case, I've been slightly surprised by it's capability, even knowing what I knew going in. The D700 is a
fantastic choice - the D800 just a bit more so, right now, although it's a personal decision on whether
or not it's worth the extra $.
I have now had a chance to try the 20 2.8D and 300 f/4 in addition to the 180 2.8 AF-N and 50 1.8D,
which were featured earlier in the thread. My initial conclusions are:
300 f/4: stellar
180 f/2.8: stellar
50 1.8D: very good
20 f/2.8D: good
Tamron 28-75 f/2.8: good (51-75mm) very good (28-50mm)
Sigma 50-150 f/2.8 HSM II (DX): very good (50-135mm) good (135-150mm)
In my bag, but yet to try:
Nikon 35 f/1.8G (DX)
Nikon 85 f/1.8D
Sigma 100-300 f/4 DG APO HSM
Sigma Super-wide 24mm f/2.8 AF
Nikon 105 f/2.6 AIS
Anyway, on to examples:
Below is a minor test of AF-lock at lowish EV and very yellow-tungsten light, the 'look' of the
50 1.8D wide-open, and the cleanliness of the file (very little PP: highlights lowered, slight
NR and sharpening) 50 f/1.8D wide-open, ISO 1400, 1/100s:
Below shows some of the 50's sharpness, but also a neat PP look, a very easy tweak
with the 800's files: 50mm f/2.8, ISO 1000, -0.3 EV
AF lock in lowish tungsten - these poses lasted a split second, I was able to
snap them with no delay or hunt: 50mm f/1.8 ISO 1250 Crop:
Out back, just a great dog :) 50mm f/2.8
Here's another shot from the 50, and a crop example - luckily, I had the camera + 50 on
my passenger seat when I saw this little guy trotting down the road. (Un-luckily, I didn't
have a telephoto on the body!) Pulled over, he allowed my presence for a few quick snaps: 50mm f/4 Crop:
Also, unlucky: this little guy didn't witness it :( 50mm f/1.8
Fun with f/1.8, showing me what he picked for mama: 50mm f/1.8 Crop:
Morning shots with the 180, the lens just never disappoints me: 180mm f/3.5 1/400s 180mm f/4 1/1600s ISO 100 180mm f/4 1/800s ISO 250
Another thing to mention - I have printed a few shots, and have tried to present
them here at largish 'display' sizes, and then show detail with crops, but to get
the full effect I think you need to see the prints - just more detail visible in a large
print, while still showing the 'whole' that a crop can't deliver. For example, the
crop below shows some of the detail available, but it looks much better when
presented in print, with the detail not taken out of context from the overall image: Full shot, 180mm f/2.8 ISO 100 Crop:
Here are some examples from the 20 f/2.8D - I didn't get to shoot much with
this lens, which is a shame, it's one I wanted to put through a stress-test the
most. I think it shows some CA in backlit situations, has some weakness in the
extreme edges, but overall is a good little performer on the D800 - but probably
not quite up to par the Zeiss 21, or perhaps the 14-24 2.8 Nikon: 20mm f/5.6 1/320s ISO 125 20mm f/5.6 1/320s ISO 220 20mm f/5.6 1/320s ISO 140
Below are some examples from the 300 f/4 - again, showing some detail available
in crop or print (and quality bokeh from that 300) 300m f/4 ISO 100 Crop: 300mm f/4 1/1000s ISO 220
The shots below are compromised a bit by some haze in the air - lowers contrast
and resolution a bit in distance shots, but I think the camera + lens overcomes it a bit: 300mm f4 ISO 1/1000s ISO 110 300mm f/5.6 1/100s ISO 200 Crop, larger - the individual rivets, the texture in the driver's seat fabric, etc: 300mm f/4 - *find the dragonfly* Hint
Goodbye to the weekend, from the 180... 180mm f/4 ISO 500 |
Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories
05-04-2012, 03:34 AM
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I found these on Amazon earlier and I bought them. I don't know how thick they are. I'll have to get back to you on that one. I've read a few reviews here and there. One of them says they're a bit thin, but most seem think they're okay. In any case you can always double them, hang two screens if they are, just clip the one you need to currently use in front, that's all. They're 5'x10' about 18" shorter than I'd ideally like for standing portraits. Tall guy, you'd have to flip orientations then clip instead of hang to be able to fit him okay, but at less than $30 I still think they are well worth the $$$. That's a total steal for 3 basic screens of any size. One 6'x9' green screen can run you this, more even. I was going to make my own white, black and green screens but it would me more 3X more just for the material so I decided to do this instead. I'm still going to paint/sew/macgyver a few backdrops to go with these. I still want to do several hand painted art backdrops. I have certain ones in mind, and I have a lot of other nice upholstery and evening type fabrics to play with as well in my fabric bins, but for the 3 basics I'm pretty well set with these. They're looking like they're maybe discontinued on the Limostudio site though so I'd get them while you can. Amazon.com: LimoStudio Photography Muslin Background Backdrop, 5' x 10' White Photo Background + 5' x 10' Black Photo Background + 5' x 10' Green Chromakey Background, AGG427: Camera & Photo
Grand total so far for my new budget "studio on a shoe string" not including my actual camera gear....
2 Cowboy Studio light kits with one kit bag, $70
Backdrops $28
Backdrop Bar $25
5-way Reflector $11
Military Camera Gear Bag $28
Manhattan Portage Insert $20
If I am adding right it's $179 minus a $25 discount that I got, so about $154!!!! I'm going to have to buy a couple more of the higher end bulbs, $28 usually on Amazon, and a $12 wireless remote for my K-x next month, but I have extras of the lower end kit's bulbs so it's not a huge priority. I think I did pretty good all things considered. One of those light kits I saved $50 on and I definitely saved a fair bit on the material for those basic screens doing this so that's not too shabby and the equipment so far seems pretty usable. I was even being a bit indulgent with the bag and insert and I still came in under my budget. Still will even getting the lights and remote! Let it not be said that I don't know how to shop, lol. ;P
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Forum: Post-Processing Articles
04-06-2012, 12:02 PM
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
06-18-2010, 06:57 AM
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
07-12-2011, 07:45 AM
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I don't own both but I used to...
Now I just have 55. I do miss the rendering qualities of 43 but I'm much more comfortable with focal length of 55. If you have and love 77 then 43 would make a good sense, that is however if you are comfortable with the focal length. But it's a nice spread 43+77, 55 is touch close to 77.
Now to the 2 lenses...
43 is much smaller, uses smaller (49mm as on FA77) filters is lighter and focuses faster (not fast, but faster than 55).
On the other side, 55 is quiet, is WR and has better hood and hood attachment arrangement (the DA*55 hood offers much more protection to the front element from elements, hits and debris than any FA ltd hood).
IQ wise? FA43 is incredibly sharp at any f stop, has excellent contrast and great colours. DA*55 is usably sharp at f1.4 just about as sharp at f1.8-2 as 43ltd and sharp from there onwards (43 edges it in this respect though). Contrast is very high from f1.6 and usable at f1.4. 55 has less CAs than 43 and I'd say touch less PF too. 43 has bit better flare resistance IMO and touch better colours. OOF? well, both lenses can be busy. 55 more so in "right conditions" but also because of extra 12mm 55 smooths background more in most occasions.
At the end few shots from both, you tell me which is which ;)
regards
:)
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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
02-22-2011, 05:13 PM
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Fig.1: Accuracy of the Pentax K-5 phase detect AF vs. luminosity in EV. The above chart includes all measurements, i.e. various lenses, light colors, distances and apertures. The accuracy is measured as deviation of the focal plane from the sensor plane, in µm. [from the study linked below]
LumoLabs (that's me ;) ) has decided to have a closer look at the K-5 low light front focus issue. After careful evaluation and many hundred test shots I must say that the issue is real.
A preliminary copy of the paper was provided to Pentax earlier this week and the head of Pentax Europe officially receives a printed copy today. I have been told that Pentax engineering will receive a copy too. The study
The results are too complex to be presented in the scope of a forum article. Fig.1 above may provide a first idea of the work though.
Please, refer to the full blog article and to the complete paper for our findings: You'll gain a deeper understanding of Fig.1 too ;) In a nutshell, this is what we find:- The K-5 as it presently ships indeed has a flaw in its phase detect autofocus module or software which causes it to front focus in low light below a lens-dependent threshold in EV.
- If it does, it seems to consistently focus ≈ 255 µm behind the sensor plane (although with a significant ± 75 µm scatter of results which is about twice as large as the normal scatter of result).
- Faster lenses seem to keep working in lower light but of course, are prone to more blur when the front focus does eventually happen. Slower lenses can already start to front focus at light levels metering as 4 EV or 6 EV even. A fast lens may work down to 0 EV in white light.
- Light sources other than daylight emphasize this problem as they simply appear darker to the AF module. Moreover, it seems to be moderately color blind for red which further emphasizes the effect in deep tungsten light.
- The effect is real and can negatively impact the daily work of a photographer. On the other hand, it is possible to run into a low light tungsten situation without the problem.
- The paper clarifies conditions to hit or avoid the issue. White light (halogen is not white enough though) and a wide lens stopped down help to work around the problem. AF assist light typically doesn't help though. But an LED flash light does. ;)
- I don't rule out that a µm-valued variable becomes 0xFF (255) and causes a false shift of the focus plane by 255 µm. I call it the +0xFFµm hypothesis.
Please, keep discussion within this thread related to the above study and work which is based on experiments. We have another thread for the exchange of observations and opinions.
It is here: https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-k-5-forum/128562-relevant-news-re-...ial-light.html
Thanks everybody for their motivation. I probably wouldn't have done it without. Again it turned out to be more work than anticipated ;)
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Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands
02-01-2011, 08:47 PM
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Here is a sample. I think it was f/4, but I could be mistaken. I overscanned the exposed film so the corner vignetting is more clear. The film is Fuji Superia 200 (consumer junk), no processing so that the vignetting appears as scanned.
The vignetting is tolerable. I can't speak for any loss of quality at the extents because the consumer film didn't have much quality to begin with. I think it is mostly fine.
I had a shot at f/2.8 which shows more vignetting, but even so I'd say the lens can be used on FX.
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
12-25-2010, 11:26 AM
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For what it's worth, I just ran a quick series of tests to try and quantify the threshold of tungsten color light at which the front focus manifests itself. I used a room with three overhead 60 watt regular tungsten light bulbs. The lights are controlled on a dimmer and I reduced the light level gradually until the focus problem presented itself. I started with the blinds open using natural light around 5 EV and the focus was fine. I closed the blinds and turned the dimmer up to 6EV and the focus was fine. I tried a light level of 5 EV and it was fine. 4 EV was fine was well. 3 EV, however, was front focused. So I tried 4EV again and the focus was fine again. Down to 3EV, the focus was off. I repeated this a few times and have concluded (that at least for this particular combination of K-5 and FA43), at around 3EV there is front focus.
So I would conclude that at low levels of artificial, tungsten colored light (3-4 EV and below) is where the FF issue begins. I haven't had any major issues in actual use, but I suspect that is because my shots were either above 3-4 EV or were in light that was low enough that the AF-assist light kicked on and mitigated the problem.
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