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Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 03-16-2013, 09:09 PM  
Old medium format folders - advice please
Posted By arnold
Replies: 59
Views: 14,027
Thanks for this, I will have to read it a few times to see just what it is I am doing. Plastic with an X against the film rails on the folder. Look through the front of the folder lens with an SLR set to infinity on a long lens. Then the X should be made to come into focus with adjusting the folder front element? Is this correct?

Added later: I put scotch tape across the film window of the folder, with some marks on it. Then with the lens open on Bulb, I looked through the view finder of my SLR 135mm into the front lens of the folder. The SLR was set to infinity. Then rotated the folder lens until the marks were the sharpest. The correcting rotation was about 10 degrees away from infinity (I may have been focused beyond infinity) Then loosened the lens ring and re positioned it at the infinity stop limit. Thanks for the help.
Forum: Mini-Challenges, Games, and Photo Stories 03-16-2013, 03:36 AM  
Photo Story This is Cuba.
Posted By Alex_Ros
Replies: 39
Views: 3,608









Forum: Pentax Medium Format 01-20-2013, 02:31 PM  
6x7 to 645 focal length conversion?
Posted By seventhdr
Replies: 3
Views: 1,783
The crop from 67 to 645D is about 1.5. A 300mm 67 lens will have the same field of view as a 200mm lens on a 645D camera.

Similarly,

The crop from 67 to 645 is about 1.25. A 150mm 67 lens will have the same field of view as a 120mm lens on a 645 camera.

I hop that this helps.

Regards

Chris Stone
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 03-26-2012, 04:27 PM  
6x7 lightmeter not working
Posted By gofour3
Replies: 7
Views: 13,358
It’s a long shot but maybe try this.

I have an intermittent issue with my 67 TTL meter, where is just won’t turn on and it’s happened with various lenses. To get the meter to work again I move the lenses DOF lever to manual and turn “on” the meter. Presto is starts to work? I can then move the DOF lever back to auto and all is well for the rest of the roll.

Not sure what’s going on, according to the TTL manual the meter doesn’t work in the manual setting.

Phil.
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 12-15-2012, 01:03 AM  
TMAX 100 & 400 development
Posted By LazyPup
Replies: 21
Views: 5,014
While stationed at Bitburg Air Base, in Bitburg,Germany from 1968 till 1972 I had a side job as manager of the base Photo Hobby Shop. The hobby shop was oepn to all members of the military and their dependants for the rediculous fee of $.25/hr and that included all equipment and chemicals. the only thing you had to buy was film & Paper. The hobby shop had 5 film developing booths, all of which were set up for B&W & one was set up for the E-4 process to develope Ecktachrome Slides. We also had 14 separate printing booths. Ten had enlargers that could handle all formats from 8mm up to 2-1/4 x 3-1/4, one that could handle 35mm through 4x5 sheet film and one that could handle up to 8x10 sheet film. The hobby shop was open daily Monday -Friday from 6pm until 10:30pm and on Saturday from 9am till 8pm.

One of my duties as manager was to mix all the chemistry,D-78 in 5gal lots and Dektol & Hypo in 10gal lots, then measure it out into individual containers for the film developing booths and the print booths. When the patrons came in they would stop at the desk long enough to sign in, then they would go to the chemistry room and select the chemistry they needed, either for film developing or printing and take it to the respective booth. Each printing booth had a dry section with the enlarger, a small work counter area and a paper safe, and if you turned around there was a wet section directly behind you with a large sink and three trays for developer, stop and hypo and a fourth tray filled with water that you kept your prints in until you had enough to make a trip out to the washer & dryer room.

In those days we didn't have resin coated paper so all prints required a 30min to 1hr continuous agitated wash. To handle that we had a Pako drum washer that could hande 200 8x10 prints at a time and we had a commercial Pako rotary drier that had a 40" wide web and a 4.5ft diameter ferrotype drum and that unit could dry 300 prints an hour, again, those were plain paper prints, not quick drying resin coated paper.

In those days we didn't have much choice for B&W film. For super fine grain we used Kodak Panatomic X 64ASA (ISO),for daylight we used Kodak Plus X 125ASA and for cloudy days, indoors or where we needed a faster shutter speed we used Tri-X 400ASA In a pinch if we were off base and had to buy film we generally bought AGFA 100, and we souped them all in Kodak D-76.

In 1969 Ilford came out with a 1,000ASA film, and we thought that was amazing since the best we could get with what we had was 800ASA by pushing Tri-X one stop. However we didn't use much of the Ilford 1,000 because it was $8.25 for a 24exp roll and it required a special developer that was $3.50 for a one roll, one shot package. That works out to $11.75 for a 24 exposure roll at a time when I could buy a 100ft bulk roll of Plus-x or Tri-x for $11.00.

My primary duty was to greet new patrons and walk them through the facility and if they had no prior experience I had to give them one -on-one hands on training for both film developing and printing as well as the washing & drying phase.

Believe me, after two years of teaching developing & printing to beginners I have seen or done just about every mistake one could imagine, and many more that have never been officially catalogued..

So allow me to impart some of what I learned:

1. It is nearly impossible to create a room dark enough to load film in the tank. Even a tiny bit of light peeking through the crack under the door will sooner or later fog a film, and that generally happens when your working on a film that you really want. The Solution- Get a changing bag and use it for all film loading. They are cheap & easy to use.

2. Chemistry should be stored in lightproof bottles. You can buy 1 or 2 quart brown chemical bottles relatively cheap, but as soon as you get the bottle, be sure to permanently mark the bottle with large letters indicating which chemical it holds. You don't want to pour your chemical in the developing tank and discover you accidently grabbed the hypo instead of the devloper.

3. Processing film is strictly a time & temperature process.
a.Get an accurate probe type dial thermometer (about $10) and use it faithfully. Make absolutely sure your developer is the correct temp before pouring it in the film tank. Actually to prevent reticulation all three chemicals, dev, stop & hypo should be at or very near the same temp. I like to keep them not more than +/- 3degrees. That may sound difficult but its not really. Before you start your developing process get a bucket that can hold all three chemistry bottles, place the bottles in the bucket in your sink, adjust the tap water to the desired temp, then fill the bucket and allow your bottles to set in the bucket for 15 or 20 minutes to stablize their temps before you start processing. (I like to have a fourth bottle of plain water that I use to pre-wet the film before I pour the developer in the tank.)

4. For beginners I like to use a Paterson Plastic Daylight film tank. The reason I like those is because the reels are selfloading. You insert the end of the film about an inch into the outermost slot, then you hold the reel steady with your left hand while holding the opposite side of the reel with your right hand, You then rotate the right hand side clockwise about a 1/4 turn, rotate it back and continue that rotating motion until the entire film is loaded on the reel. Another advantage of the Patterson reels is that you can grip both sides of the reels and pull them outwards and the reel will expand wide enough to handle 120 & 220film which loads the same way. The only difference with the patterson tanks is that instead of turning the tank upside down and right side up again to agitate, the patterson tanks have a small plastic dowel handle that goes down the middie of the top opening and you agitate by rotating the dowel.

5. If you elect to buy a stainless steel tank, I would highly recommend you get a 4 reel tank and get four reels. You may only be souping one roll at a time now, but as you become more proficient you will soon want to do up to four rolls of film at one time to save time. One caveate here. You can process 1,2,3 or 4 rolls at the same time,but regardless of how many rolls of film you load, besure to put all the reels in the tank to take up the space. If you were to only put one reel in a 4reel tank as you invert the tank to agitate, the reel slides to the opposite end of the tank causing the developer to accelerate as it passes through the sprocket holes and you run a very high risk of over developed streaks across your negatives.

NOTE: When buying a stainless steel tank you will see ads for Nikor tanks, which have a stainless steel lid, and sometimes you can find Kinderman tanks, which are stainless steeel tanks with the same reels as a Nikor tank, but the Kinderman has a rubber lid. The both work identically the same, the only difference is that the Kinderman tank is usually about 1/2 the price of the Nikor tank.

If you begin with the stainless steel tank & reels I would strongly suggest you get an old roll of film that you can afford to throw away and practice loading the reels in daylight about 20 or 30 times, then repeat the practice in your changing bag about another 20 or 30 times or until you feel comfortable with the process before you begin loading film that you really want to come out correctly.

6. And last, but certainly not least, as I mentioned above, time is critical. If you feel that you will go on with the developing process i would strongly encourage you to get a Gralab darkroom timer. The Graylab time is a countdown timer that can be set for minutes or seconds and it has a large face and all markings and the clock hands glow in the dark. The gralab timer also two 110volt outlets so later when you start printing you can use the same timer for your enlarger and safelight. Out of curiosity I checked ebay and found about a dozen or more graylab timers for about $40, which I think is a real bargan when I consider I bought mine in 1971 and I paid $79 for it then...LOL
Forum: Pentax News and Rumors 09-07-2012, 09:34 AM  
Pentax K-5 II/s rumor update (w/images)...
Posted By northcoastgreg
Replies: 593
Views: 100,198
The K-3 will have a 24 MP sensor. Now there appears to be a division in the desires of DSLRs consumers. Some buy into the megapixel madness and want cameras with more MPs. Others are either satisfied with 12-18 MP or only desire qualitative (i.e., better high ISO performance, more DR), rather than quantitative improvements. Nikon and Canon, with their larger lineups, can satisfy both consumer bases. Now Pentax has sold a number of high quality APS-C lenses; many of the owners of those lenses will want to use them on top-of-the-line camera. Assuming the K-5 II (or equivalent) rumors are true, those of us who want a camera better than the K-30 won't be forced to upgrade to a camera with an MP size we don't want or need. Having more choices is good. It means more people can have the kind of camera that fits their needs/wants.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 06-05-2012, 09:13 PM  
Any drawbacks using 645 lens on a K-5?
Posted By LaurenOE
Replies: 12
Views: 2,626
Using the 645 adapter, there are several things that need to be taken into account.

1) The position/rotation of the adapter to the K5 mount flange to allow mounting of the adapter.



If you try and mount the adapter in the orientation above, the knob will hit the flash/prism housing.

You have to first rotate the adapter so that the knob is 180' from the K mount alignment mark.



Once the adapter is mounted on the camera, you have to rotate it back to the first position, so that the aperture ring is facing up on the 645 lens - unless you are fine with the aperture ring being on the side.

Ultimately, the clearance of the 645 adapter to the K5 is VERY close, but doesn't touch.

Forum: Pentax News and Rumors 04-04-2012, 06:32 PM  
Pentax Unilateral Pricing Policy
Posted By jatrax
Replies: 1,013
Views: 97,978
I think you are seriously misunderstanding the whole conversation. Pentax has not raised prices. They have required authorized dealers to stick to MSRP or some percentage of it (we do not know the exact terms). Pentax is attempting to police their sales channel just as many other manufacturers do. Any additional margin will go to the dealers not Pentax.

Without getting into the B&M versus online argument there is a good reason to make sure dealers make money on your product: if they do not make money they don't care about you or your products and neither do their sales staff.

How did we get here? The same way a lot of industries did, including gas stations back in the day when stations competed for your business. Your competitor offers a product cheaper than you do, so you either lower your price to match or go below him to get the sales. The week after your competitor drops his price again and then you do the same, round and round we go. If no one is policing the children it ends up with your product being sold at essentially no margin, and guess what, the dealers stop stocking it and stop pushing it because they are not making money. Even though they caused the issue themselves.

In this case we have B&H, Amazon, Adorama, Abe's and maybe a few others all trying to keep their volume up by discounting to make the sale. Add in the higher stocking and minimum order requirements instigated by Hoya and you can see they all have motivation to keep the volume moving or they lose either their AD status or some amount of discount. What has been needed is someone to step in and say stop. Here are the rules, everybody follows them and everybody makes money. I cannot imagine any of the dealers being too upset about being able to actually make money on Pentax. But they were never going to let a competitor undercut them.

Is this fair to consumers? No, not at all and carried to extreme it is probably illegal in the US. But the system being used was not fair either, and carried to extreme would have ended up with no dealers stocking Pentax because there was no money in it. Ricoh, recognized the retail channel was in a death spiral and moved to fix it. Will we be stuck at MSRP? No, no way. Once the gray channel has flushed out and Pentax has the dealers back toeing the line prices will be allowed to float gradually to the level that creates the most sales / margin.

Will we see last week's prices again? Probably not. I think we were seeing things being sold at essentially zero margin or at least a margin so low it was unsustainable.

Am I happy about it? Nope, I was one more paycheck from the DA 40mm. At $359 it was an incredible bargain. At $500, I have a perfectly serviceable F 50mm 1.7 that will do the job good enough for me. Will I ever get the DA 40? Who knows but not anytime soon. But I am not going to go around downing Pentax / Ricoh for being good business people, recognizing an issue and moving to fix it. Ricoh has committed millions of dollars to this project and if they are as good as I think they are they realize it takes a lot more than a top notch product to succeed. You also need good marketing, solid service and a committed dealer network that values your product because it makes them money.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 08-05-2011, 10:55 PM  
Shootout: FA31 Limited vs. Contax-Zeiss 28mm f2.8 – Is the Zeiss the Limited's Peer?
Posted By les3547
Replies: 51
Views: 29,281
A “normal” lens is one with a focal length about equal to the diagonal size of its film or sensor format, so it makes sense that Pentax APS-C users would want a great 28mm -- it is an exact “normal” lens for us (the sensor diagonals for the K-7 and K-5, for example, are 28.1 and 28.4 respectively).

Many believe the best lens near that focal length is the Pentax FA31 Limited. I was saving to buy it, but since it costs twice as much as I wanted to spend, I also kept researching alternatives. The Contax-Zeiss Distagon T* 28mm f2.8 lens jumped in the running after reading several positive reviews and learning it can be acquired on Ebay for $250 to $400. While the Zeiss 28 requires a Leitax adapter costing another $100, it still comes in for about half the price of the Pentax FA31 Limited and so would be a real bargain if it could match the IQ of the Pentax.

I decided to give the Zeiss a try, and managed to land one from Ebay in mint condition for $385. The first quick shot in lovely late afternoon light had me extoling, “wow, nice lens”:



Of course, I couldn’t just be happy with my find, be grateful for favors from the universe (or whatever). No, I fretted about what I might be missing by choosing the Zeiss over the FA31; obviously auto focus and electronic aperture control, but then for me optical quality trumps all other mere conveniences (and I’m always turning AF off anyway).

Then I saw a review of the Contax-Zeiss 28 f2.8 here at PF by Interested Observer, (Gordon) who also happens to own the FA31 (check out the second post in this thread for his thoughts). I wrote to ask him to do a comparison between the two lenses, but he thought pictures taken where I live -- Northern California wine country, Pacific ocean vicinity -- would make for a better test than in sweltering Arizona where he resides. Next thing I know he’s sent me his FA31 to compare to my Zeiss, and we’d agreed to collaborate on a shootout between the two lenses.

The “shootout” entails simply using the lenses on the same scenes and posting results here, analyzing how pictures compare in color rendering, performance in different lighting conditions, corner-center resolution, chromatic aberration, etc., and then a few final thoughts in this and Gordon’s follow up post. The camera used was a K-7, and all but the token bokeh comparison (done wide open) were shot at f5.6 because the charts I saw seemed to indicate that’s where the best overall resolution was from edge to edge. All pictures were adjusted slightly, and equally, in Lightroom for loss of focus when converting to JPEG, and for the fact that I underexpose when I shoot by 2/3 stops to keep from blowing highlights.

Without further ado -- the first comparison shots; to my eyes they seemed to indicate the lenses were very close in image quality:

Zeiss


Pentax



For some reason (a senior moment?) I focused on the center flower’s stamens-pistil area with the Zeiss, but with the Pentax I focused on the stamens-pistil of the flower on the lower right side (which is why the leaves on the same plane in the background of the Pentax shot are also in focus). If you compare sharpness between pictures on the in-focus flowers, there are no noticeable distinctions.

Something the pictures do show is the difference 3mm can make in the neighborhood of 28mm focal length. Comparing the lettering in the background, you can see how much the Pentax compressed that area. In the vineyard shots below, where I moved the camera forward or back to try to create similar fields of view for the lenses, I was surprised to have to move 12-15 feet to achieve that.

Getting back to lens IQ, could these lenses really be so similar? Another pair of shots to see how they handled bright colors seemed to say yes (taken at an “old hippie” tie dye hole-in-the-wall shop in the tiny town of Occidental):

Zeiss


Pentax



Vivid colors for sure from both lenses.

For the next shots I took the lenses to a remote area, down a lonely one-lane road near the Pacific. All I can say is, the three or so families who live here must love indefatigable wind and being swallowed by fog every day, what a blustery place!

Zeiss


Pentax


Again, much similarity. However, the asphalt road in the foreground gives a hint of divergence in how the lenses render, with the Pentax leaning toward blue while Zeiss translates it warmer. Yet I hadn’t noticed that in the lily or tie dye shop pictures, why was it showing here? *(See edit comment at the end of this post.)

Other differences in the remote coastal scene were that colors and dynamic range were more muted than the environs of lilies and tie dye shop. On a hunch I reversed direction for my next test, shooting at midday in the vineyard here to see how the lenses performed in a situation of higher dynamic range:

Zeiss


Pentax


This time the difference was very clear, the Pentax definitely rendered cooler than the Zeiss; also, the Pentax was more contrasty, aided I’m sure by it’s cooler temperament, and that made detail jump out slightly more than with the Zeiss. On the other hand, more variation in color shows from the Zeiss’s warmer portrayal. And looking at them individually (i.e., not in comparison), it didn’t seem either needed much of anything to be an excellent picture (at least that couldn’t be adjusted to taste in post processing).

I decided to try lower dynamic range:

Zeiss


Pentax


Here the cool-warm differences in rendering again show themselves, with the Pentax’s contrast causing a bit more “pop” and the Zeiss warmth showing more variation in color. Looking at full pictures from each lens you might think that if pixel peeped the Pentax would exhibit noticeably more detail, but that is not easily observed; extreme crops show detail in both pictures are close, with the Pentax perhaps winning by a nose:

Zeiss


Pentax


Apparently the detail was manifested by both lenses, but made more noticeable by the cooler and higher contrast rendering of the Pentax. *(See edit comment #3 at the end of this post for how white balance setting might be what accounts for temperature differences.) To test for more absolute resolution profiles, I shot a plank wall where the results would be easier to study and then compared center and corners:

Full wall


Zeiss upper left corner crop


Pentax upper left corner crop


Zeiss lower right corner crop


Pentax lower right corner crop


Zeiss center crop


Pentax center crop



These shots indicate the Zeiss is somewhat better in the corners, and the Pentax does a little better in the center*; when pixel peeping all the other photos taken for this shootout, I thought that generally seemed to hold true. My take on this was that that both lenses exhibit superb resolution, but show it differently in high and low dynamic range conditions. *(See edit comment at the end of this post.)

Next up a chromatic aberration test, which I did by simply pointing at branches in front of the sun; here is the full shot using the Pentax lens:

Pentax full shot


Zeiss crop


Pentax crop


The Zeiss was impressive in this test, I don’t think it shows a bit of CA; the Pentax didn’t fare so well viewed super close, but looking at the full shot of the branches taken by Pentax (the first pic) one can see the CA isn’t the least bit noticeable.


Final Thoughts

The lenses very much seem in the same league. The Zeiss seems to yield more uniform resolution, while the Pentax sharpens up the center a tad more. Based on just one test, the Zeiss may be extraordinarily CA resistant, but the Pentax is not faulted by professional reviewers in this regard, so I’m inclined to think the Pentax is good enough, and the Zeiss is exceptional beyond what is noticeable except in extreme crops. And bokeh . . . well, no test for that because I rely on longer focal lengths when I want that, but the Pentax’s 1.8 speed offers more potential for bokeh and low light shooting as well.

In terms of build, they are both all metal, with a great feel. For me the Pentax takes the prize for aesthetics, it is beautiful -- the Zeiss is a bit plain looking (though up close it is clearly a quality lens). I like the dampening of the focus ring on the Zeiss better, more resistance and so less likely to unintentionally move. But then, one must manually adjust aperture with the Zeiss, a slight inconvenience if you’ve not done that. Those of us who grew up with manual focus and aperture adjustment will likely find it less of an issue. The Zeiss is about half the weight, and significantly smaller than the Pentax . . . that’s something I really like; yet the Pentax’s heft felt nice in the hand while using it:



One last consideration is having to buy the Leitax adapter from here, and then install it. It might seem intimidating, but it is actually very simple, taking me 15 extremely careful, triple-checking, reviewing-instructions minutes because I was worrying about doing something wrong (if I did it again I could easily finish in 5 minutes). Remove the screws, pull off the mount, which consists of three pieces, and then put on the single-piece new mount:



There’s a little spring one is warned about at the Leitax site, but you only have to be concerned about it if you are going to restore the old mount; otherwise, you can ruin the spring and throw away the old parts, they serve no purpose for a Pentax camera.

However, there is one significant danger when the screws are to be removed. Make sure to have a very small, sharp-ridged screw driver, and make sure to press very firmly and turn slowly when removing the screws to ensure the screw is actually turning and not being stripped. On mine three of the four screws came out fine, but one stripped because I was careless about applying pressure (I finally got it out though).




The good news is that two screws are among the unneeded old parts, and they can be used if one ruins a mount screw. I’d suggest disassembling and reassembling on something like a white pillow case because the little ball bearing is easily lost. Not a real problem though since a spare ball bearing is included by Leitax (unless you lose that one too). Also, if you don’t have some, buy the silicon lubricant Leitax offers; it is used to keep the little ball bearing in place during reassembly, plus after I reassembled the lens, the aperture ring worked far more smoothly than it had before applying the lubricant. Finally, I chose the UPS shipping option at Leitax after reading their warning that the adaptor can take weeks to arrive from Spain via the US postal service (apparently security checks can hold it up). It costs an extra $15 for UPS Express, but I got my adaptor in 2 days!

So, who wins the shootout? To me the Zeiss wins because the Pentax FA31 Limited was already a recognized winner (yes, it’s like a communist contest, no losers). The fact that a Limited-quality prime is available at the true normal spot, at half the price of the FA31, makes everyone lusting for a 28mm lens potential winners too. The testing procedure really made me thrilled to own the Zeiss, and gave me confidence that it will perform like a champion when it’s at work on my camera.



Edit Note #1:

I am a little disappointed with how some of the pictures appear here. Looking at the RAW files you can better see, for instance, that the center plank board pictures are slightly better resolved by the FA31, and also that extreme crop of the dirt area of the vineyard in lower DR also is slightly better resolved. But here I don't think it really shows.

The lonely road shots in RAW files are similar in every way except the road; yet here the grass looks quite a bit warmer in the Zeiss rendition.

I don't know how to fix the discrepancy . . . I suppose everyone will have to take my word for it on the lenses' resolving strengths/weakness and handling of DR, or acquire the two lenses and see for themselves! :lol:

Edit Note #2:

Taurus9 writes - "Because the lens is made in Japan, the screws are JIS type, not phillips. So, I would recommend buying JIS drivers, and not attempt to unscrew using regular philips drivers or jewellers screwdrivers. On my copy of the Zeiss 28mm 2.8, the screws were glued down, and required heating from a soldering iron to loosen up."

Edit Note #3:

As a couple of people have pointed out in subsequent posts, that I relied on the auto white balance setting could account for some of the temperature differences in the way each lens rendered color. If so, then what I said about the lens leaning toward blue or red is suspect. Another possibility mentioned for what caused the temperature differences is the lenses coatings, and that seems plausible as well. However, in the end, the cause(s) doesn't matter much to the thread's question of whether the Zeiss is a peer (at least optically) of the esteemed FA31 -- what matters is if the Zeiss can be trusted IQ-wise as a substitute for the FA31.

Edit Note #4, July 16, 2017:

Since Adam briefly turned off the editing time limit so I could fix missing photos, I wanted to add that two Contax lenses I've since Leitaxed (another 28mm and the 50mm) did not focus at infinity. Here's a link to someone on Youtube demonstrating how to adjust lenses for that:
















You Tube





Forum: Pentax Medium Format 04-08-2011, 01:28 PM  
My final thoughts on the 645d...
Posted By harklee
Replies: 79
Views: 62,171
These are my final thoughts on the 645d and a compilation of works for the past six months. In summary, the 645d is a great value to those who consider the quality of prints the highest priority.

A. Image Quality

(1) Quality of each pixel most likely exceeds that of any high end DSLR, no idea how it compares to the other medium format digitals.
(2) Images sharpen very well, compared to d3x, 1ds III or 5d ii, the RAW files contain finer details and less artifacts when sharpened with the same parameters in ACR (compared at 100%).
(3) Achieving pan focus is much tougher for landscape photographers due to larger sensor size. For pixel peepers, if you demand high quality for each pixel, meaning very small circle of confusion, DOF will always be a problem when you include close-distance objects (e.g. less than 10-15ft when you are shooting at 35mm, f/13), focus stacking is something you may want to consider.
(4) The dynamic range seems to be no different than any other DSLRs, the specifications from the manufacturer seem to support my experiences.
(5) ISO 100 produces better images than ISO 200 (even though ISO 200 is default), although I never tested above ISO 400.
(6) Color rendition is very natural. Red channel tends to be suppressed compared to the canon DSLRs (maybe it's the other way around, Canon tends to oversaturate).
(7) TERRIBLE white balance. Especially photographing sunsets and sunrises gives you a number of logistic challenges, the auto WB is almost never right. Need to take mental images of the scene and correct WB in RAW converter based on memory.
(8) Diffraction becomes noticeable at f/16, the best aperture seems to be f/11-f/13 for landscape photography.

B. The Camera

(1) Definitely larger than any top of the line DSLRs, but light for its size.
(2) Ergonomically designed, handles very well.
(3) Feels very solid and well made, the dust / weather seal offers great protection.
(4) Viewfinder is large and bright, displays all essential information.
(5) Mirror is well dampened, lock-up is very useful for landscape shooters.
(6) Electronic level is convenient and accurate, also offered inside the viewfinder.
(7) Very useful dedicated control buttons / knobs for bracketting, mirror lock-up, metering, AF mode, AF, white balance and drive mode.
(8) Battery life is more than enough, purchased three extra batteries, never had to use more than two batteries in one day.
(9) Separate mounting plate can be attached on the left side of the camera for vertical shots, very useful since some ball heads cannot support the weight of the camera when tilted.
(10) 3" LCD is one of the best features, superb quality. The camera offers fast zoom to check the focus / sharpness (usually zoom to 14X-16X gives you a good sense of the 100% original).
(11) Auto focus seems accurate, didn't have a chance to carry out precision tests.
(12) Lack of liveview is a major disadvantage compared to high-end DSLRs.
(13) It takes about 4 secs to review a shot even with Sandisk Extreme 32GB SDHC cards (30MB/S), (with lens corrections off), which can be frustrating from time to time.

C. Lenses

(1) Most FA lenses seem to perform very well with the exceptions of FA 33-55mm and FA 45mm. Tested lenses : FA 35mm, FA 33-55mm, FA 45-85mm, FA 55-110mm, FA 80-160mm, FA 45mm, D-FA 55mm, FA 75mm, FA 150mm.
(2) A 35mm marginally outperforms FA 35mm, although the quality of the very edges with a 645 full-frame sensor remains to be seen.
(3) A 35mm seems to offer larger DOF than FA 35mm focused at the same distance with the same f-number, probably due to less field curvature. A test will be carried out shortly.
(4) FA 33-55mm is almost unusuable for pixel peepers, due to extreme field curvature, it's never sharp from corner to corner below f/16, so almost always substantially diffraction-limited. The lens performs better from 35mm to 45mm. Two copies tested, both calibrated by Pentax Japan.
(5) FA 45-85mm and FA 80-160mm perform slightly better than FA 55-110mm, all three lenses produce very sharp images.
(6) D-FA 55mm seems a tad softer at the edges than the FA 45-85mm, but slightly sharper in the center of the frame, both lenses perform very well.
(7) D-FA 25mm is on its way, will report back in a few weeks.

D. Prints
(1) Tested up to 30"X40", offers great quality and amazing details.
(2) Expected to offer prints up to 39" X 52" that are sharp upon close inspection (assuming 1.5 ft of viewing distance) when properly processed and sharpened.

E. Suggested Improvements
(1) 80MP full-frame sensor.
(2) Development of tilt lenses (to control the focal plane and avoid diffraction).
(3) Liveview.
(4) Improved white balance.
(5) Faster image review.
(6) Articulated LCD.

F. A Nitpick
The factory remote control F has a tiny button. It's tricky to use because you have to press it with your fingernail and sometime you end up missing the shot. Aftermarket remote features a larger button, cheaper and works better.

G. Samples
All of the sample pics are optimized for the following display settings, conventional LCD monitors may show them too bright / blueish.
Temperature = 5000K / Gamma = 2.2 / Luminance = 120




Ano Nuevo State Park, San Mateo, California (A 35mm)



Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, California (FA 35mm)



Davenport Beach, Davenport, California (FA 35mm)



Cataract Falls, Fairfax, California (FA 35mm)



Bonsai Rock, Lake Tahoe, Nevada (A 35mm)



Emerald Bay, Lake Tahoe, California (A 35mm, panoramic)



Hole in the Wall Beach, Davenport, California (A 35mm)



Antelope Canyon, Page, Arizona (FA 45-85mm)



Montana de Oro State Park, Los Osos, California (A 35mm)



Mossbrae Falls, Dunsmuir, California (FA 35mm)




Bonny Doon Beach, Davenport, California (FA 35mm)



Convict Lake, Mono, California (A 35mm)




Pigeon Point Lighthouse, Pescadero, California (FA 45-85mm)



Subway, Zion National Park, Utah (FA 35mm)




Wilder Ranch State Park, Santa Cruz, California (FA 45-85mm)



Mount Shasta, Siskiyou, California (FA 35mm)



Swinging Bridge, Yosemite National Park, California (FA 35mm)



Pfeiffer Beach, Big Sur, California (FA 80-160mm)



Cataract Falls, Fairfax, California (FA 35mm)



Bonsai Rock, Lake Tahoe, Nevada (FA 35mm)



Red Rock Canyon, Clark, Nevada (FA 45-85mm)



Garrapata State Park, Carmel, California (FA 35mm)



Subway, Zion National Park, Utah (FA 35mm)



Bonny Doon Beach, Davenport, California (A 35mm)



South Tufa, Mono Lake, Mono, California (FA 45-85mm, panoramic)



Horseshoe Bend, Page, Arizona (A 35mm, panoramic)



The Watchman, Zion National Park, Utah (FA 35mm)



Valley View, Yosemite National Park, California (FA 35mm)



Mesquite Sand Dunes, Death Valley National Park, California (FA 35mm)
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 03-03-2011, 01:55 PM  
Does the K-7 get a bad rap or not much of a chance?
Posted By hcc
Replies: 53
Views: 10,212
The K-7 is a great camera. The production has been discontinued and the K-5 is taking over as the semi-pro Pentax dSLR. All these contribute to the lower 2nd marketplace prices and the K-7 is a very attractive offer now for many.

Make no mistake that the K-7 is still one of the best dSLRs on the market for its ergonomics, its viewfinder, its handling and solidity. All these features were re-used without any improvement on the K-5, and that does say a lot...

The weakness of the K-7 is its low-light conditions where the K-x (and now K-r & K-5) excels. However there are some well-known techniques to improve drastically the performances of the K-7 in low light:
* shoot with zero (no) in-camera processing and PP your shots with dedicated noise reduction softwares; I use Noiseware, others use Noise Ninja and co; importantly this works very well;

* use Adam's solution with in-camera High-ISONoise Reduction: {https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-dslr-discussion/106600-k-7-high-iso-success.html};

* use a fast prime lens (large aperture, low f like f1.4)

There have been several threads on the topic:
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-dslr-discussion/121531-k7-high-iso-noise.html
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-dslr-discussion/118450-post-your-k...iso-shots.html
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-dslr-discussion/118044-k-7-opinion...-shooting.html

All in all the K-7 is a great camera, As time passes by, it has been superseeded and the marketplace prices reflect the situation. It is however one rare Pentax dSLR that did not have some fundamental flaw like others (battery drain in K-x, sensor stain of K-5).

A key feature of the Pentax line-up is also the compatibility of lenses. Indeed the lenses are more important than the camera body: "a lens is worth every penny".

Food for thought from a very happy K-7 owner.:rolleyes:
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 01-29-2011, 03:05 PM  
DIY SDM repair!
Posted By sveinmb
Replies: 232
Views: 115,034
"By popular demand" I've now made a guide with lots of pictures for those daring to try this themselves. Its found here
Forum: Ask B&H Photo! 01-29-2011, 05:45 AM  
New K-5 Inventory...
Posted By Michaelina2
Replies: 5
Views: 2,260
I ordered a K-5 body from B&H on Wednesday, Jan 26. It arrived new and factory fresh (Manf date: 14-Jan-11, shutter count = 0) on Friday, Jan 28. I paired it to a DFA 100/2.8 MACRO WR, upgraded to FW 1.02, and immediately put it through the classic stains test described here and elsewhere. Result = clean sensor (NO PROBLEM). I also shot some typical tungsten lit subjects at f/2.8 using AF in low light settings that were much darker than usual for me, but NOT so dark the AF assist light came on. Result = focus seems spot on, works great (NO PROBLEM). So for me, I'm putting the sensor stain and AF FF/BF issues out of my mind and am looking forward to some photographic fun... Appears to be a neat tough camera body just like the tons of reviews suggest...

Cheers... M
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 01-20-2011, 05:09 PM  
Pentax O-ICK1 Cleaning Stick/Artic Butterfly
Posted By jamesm007
Replies: 12
Views: 3,127
Visible Dust Arctic Butterfly has been great for me. I use the sensor brush and the focus-screen/mirror brush. I never have a speck of dust in my OVF or on my sensor for long!

Some facts however.

1. Blowing can work with one caveat; it depends on your environment. It could very well introduce more dust, just move the dust and or put it into an area you don't want like the OVF! :hmm:

2. A dry cleaning method such as Pentax O-ICK1 or the AB are both good and work, but not always! :(

3. A wet cleaning is the only way to remove stubborn contaminates stuck to the AA filter. Any wet cleaning is OK and fairly safe. I have used Visibles Dust wet cleaning swabs (I purchased the travel kit from them) with never a problem of any kind. But any will work. There is not much that can go wrong. Your not touching the sensor but a hardened cover over the sensor. Just follow directions to the letter.;)

I don't promote any one brand but do promote not using a blower in your camera on a regular basis. My IMHO best advice is having a kit that has the ArticButterfly or Pentax O-ICK1 and some wet cleaning method; oh an yes a high quality (like GIOTTO'S Rocket Blower) to blow off dust from your lens before wiping. Or a gentle puff on your focus-screen to try and remove dust in that area. :cool:
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 01-14-2011, 08:22 AM  
New DA*300mm Question
Posted By dgaies
Replies: 14
Views: 2,156
I can only address a couple aspects of your question as I've never used a Bigma. I owned the DA*300 for a little while and found the IQ to be outstanding, even wide open. The AF is quick and the overall feel and build of the lens is excellent. I ended up getting rid of it in favor of a DA*60-250, but it was for the versatility of the zoom, not for lack of IQ of the DA*300.

While I had the DA*300, I tried pairing it with both a 1.4x Tamron TC and the 1.7x Pentax AF-adapter and felt the IQ help up very well with both. Keep in mind both TC options have their limitations in terms of AF. The Tamron allows you to use the SDM of the lens, although the AF isn't as quick as often requires a second try lock. The Pentax 1.7x forces you to manually focus into the ballpark, and then it uses it's own focusing mechanism to finish the job. The downside here is that you're down to f/6.3 at this point so I have a feeling on some older bodies the AF systems may not perform as well with the more limited incoming light.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 11-08-2010, 12:35 AM  
Can someone show what the A* 135mm f/1.8 can do.
Posted By Douglas_of_Sweden
Replies: 30
Views: 6,883
What is most unusual to me is how sharp and contrasty it is a wide open. Of course all lenses lose a bit of these qualities wide open simply because wider apperture means more stray light beams, more or less a natural law, but this lens suffers less from that than other fast tele lenses I've tried. The A*135/1.8 is clearly more usable at f1.8 than the A*85/1.4 is at f1.4 (unless you want the 85 to go a bit soft for portrait).
You sometimes here that the A line were less well built than the M and K line. I think that is comming from a few plastic details in the most mass produced kit zoom lenses and the plastic internal detail that sometimes break in the apperture ring of the A50/1.7 and A50/2, but the rest of the line were pure metal and glass, and the A* lenses are as well built as any K lenses. The A*135 is a joy to focus, gives you a bright viewfinder and has a smooth focus throw.

As for why there is no DA*135/1.8. There never was a F* or FA*135/1.8 either. That is more of a mystery to me. For the DA line, I simply think that Pentax did not expect to sell enough of it having lost market shares throughout the 90's and being late into the digital age. With market share picking up with more and more K-x, K-r and K-5 bodies sold, I hope they will again launch some high spec lenses. But before giving anything similar to the A*135 I'd like to see the A*200/4 macro or FA*200/4 macro in a DFA* version.

As for quantity, I don't know. But based on that it appears to be about as unusual as the FA*200 macro, which I've heared was only built in 1100 copies, I'd guess something similar. That's not much on a global basis. Especially considering that some ended up on the shelfes of collectors.:(

Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 11-09-2010, 03:57 AM  
Asahi Pentax Lens and Accessory catalog, 1976/77
Posted By Nesster
Replies: 19
Views: 10,303
I have this interesting Pentax lens & accessory catalog from the transitional period between the K and the M, which puts it in 1976/77. Here are some pages, I have 6 more to post...in the next couple of days




SMC Pentax Fisheye 17mm f/4 SMC Pentax 15mm f/3.5 SMC Pentax 18mm f/3.5 by Nesster, on Flickr


SMC Pentax 20mm f/4 SMC Pentax 24mm f/2.8 SMC Pentax 28mm f/2 SMC Pentax-m 28mm f/2.8 by Nesster, on Flickr


SMC Pentax 30mm f/2.8 SMC Pentax-M 35mm f/2 SMC Pentax-M 35mm f/2.8 1976-77 by Nesster, on Flickr


SMC Pentax-M 40mm f/2.8 Pentax 50mm f/1.2 Pentax 50mm f/1.4 Pentax-M 50mm f/1.4 by Nesster, on Flickr


SMC Pentax-M 50mm f/1.7 SMC Pentax 55mm f/1.8 SMC Pentax 55mm f/2 SMC Pentax 85mm f/1.8 SMC Pentax-M 100 f/2.8 SMC Pentax 120mm f/2.8 by Nesster, on Flickr


SMC Pentax 135mm f/2.5 SMC Pentax-M 135mm f/3.5 SMC Pentax 150mm f/4 SMC Pentax 200mm f/4 SMC Pentax-M 200mm f/4 by Nesster, on Flickr


SMC Pentax 300mm f/4 SMC Pentax 400mm f/5.6 SMC Pentax 500mm f/4.5 SMC Pentax 1000mm f/8 by Nesster, on Flickr


SMC Pentax Reflex 1000mm f/11 by Nesster, on Flickr


SMC Pentax Zoom 45-125mm f/4 SMC Pentax Zoom 85-210mm f/3.5 SMC Pentax Zoom 85-210mm f/4.5 SMC Pentax Zoom 135-600mm f/6.7 by Nesster, on Flickr


SMC-M Pentax Macro 50mm f/4 SMC Pentax-M Macro 100mm f/4 SMC Pentax Bellows 100mm f/4 SMC Pentax Shift 28mm f/3.5 by Nesster, on Flickr


1876/77 Pentax Lens Table by Nesster, on Flickr


Asahi Pentax Accessories - Filters 1976/77 by Nesster, on Flickr


Pentax Lens Accessories 1976/77 by Nesster, on Flickr

Very large sizes are available if you click through to flickr
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion 08-01-2010, 05:36 AM  
Poll: Have you found that K-7 Firmware 1.1 Improved AF Noticeably?
Posted By ll_coffee_lP
Replies: 18
Views: 5,564
There is definitely a difference b/w 1.03 and 1.1.

Yesterday I updated my k-7's. I updated one first and tested the focusing of it with fa43 and da50-135, then swapped the lens out to my "not yet updated" k-7 and focused on the same things and took note of the time and hunting.

I can assure you of the following:
- AF is faster with v1.1
- less time to focus lock with v1.1
- fa43 had a higher pitched whine to it when focusing with v1.1 which leads me to believe that in v1.1 the af motor speed has been tweeked to go faster. no sound difference with da50-135, but it has sdm.

c[_]
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