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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
10-03-2011, 11:54 AM
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I can confirm this issue. I had a K100D Super and it worked great with my Vivitar 383. When I got my K-r, I have the strobing problem in p-TTL mode, plus in manual power, it only goes off every other shutter release. I contacted Vivitar and Pentax support and they were of no help, basically blaming each other. K-r and K-5 have some new type of p-TTL programming. So much for a "p-TTL standard", makes it hard to trust anything now. That's why I'm going with a full manual flash now.
I'm selling my Vivitar 383 flash on ebay, but I also want to give buyers a fair heads up. I know it won't work with K-r or K-5, but can anyone confirm that the 383 fully works with the K-x/K-7 or earlier? I think it will, but I don't want to over-promise. Who knows if a firmware update to the older cameras could also break it...
Thanks
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Forum: Pentax K-r
09-29-2011, 06:58 AM
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I upgraded from a K100D Super to a K-r, and Im having nothing but probelms when it comes to flashes.
I have a dedicated p-TTL Vivitar 383. This flash worked fine with my old K100D Super. I have had a ton of other problems with this flash and my K-r as discussed towards the end of this post: https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-k-r-forum/137599-vivitar-flash-kr-...ml#post1482100 .
But now I'm finding that not only does it not work properlly on camera, it doesn't work in slave mode either. It gets triggered by the preflash, and by the time the camera shutter opens the flash light is gone. This never happened with K100D, I wonder if that camera didn't have a preflash? My camera is in M mode, so I'm not sure why I even need a preflash to measure exposure to begin with. Is there any way to disable?
The strange thing is that if I set my flash to anything below 1/2 power, it actually does sync. But 1/1 and 1/2 don't sync. It seems like it would be the opposite. I'd think the stronger power would have more light lingering even if it's late. At first I thought it was a low battery issue. I put in some fresh batteries and everything worked fine. But then I realized that it was set at a lower power. So when I bumped it back to full power, it didn't work again.
I'm looking for a new flash now, but I don't trust that any other one (besides the Pentax flashes $$$) will do any better. Makes it hard to shop. I don't trust the p-TTL "standard" anymore, since my p-TTL Vivitar flash doesn't work with the newer K-r (or K-5) p-TTL systems (according to Pentax and Vivitar support).
Any suggestions? I'm looking for something that...
Can handle preflash for slave
Has manual power adjustment
Has bounce/swivel
Preferably has rear curtain
I don't even care if I have p-TTL this time (I used manual more often), but if I do, it needs to actually be compatible with the new Kr/K5 style p-TTL
Looking for something under $150
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
09-29-2011, 06:44 AM
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Do you have a Vivitar 383 Series 1? I have the same issue with my K-r. It gets triggered by the preflash, and by the time the camera shutter opens, the flash light is gone. Although to my eye, it appears to be synced (going off at the same time). The frustrating thing is that this flash worked fine with my old K100D Super. I wonder if that camera didn't have a preflash. I have also had a ton of other problems with this flash and my K-r as discussed here https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-k-r-forum/137599-vivitar-flash-kr-...ml#post1482100
The strange thing is that if I set my flash to anything below 1/2 power, it actually does sync. But 1/1 and 1/2 don't sync. It seems like it would be the opposite. I'd think the stronger power would have more light lingering even if it's late.
My camera is in M mode, so I'm not sure why I even need a preflash to measure exposure to begin with. I'm looking for a new flash now, but I don't trust that any other one (besides the Pentax flashes $$$) will do any better. Makes it hard to shop. I don't trust the p-TTL "standard" anymore, since my p-TTL Vivitar flash doesn't work with the newer K-r (or K-5) systems.
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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
09-29-2011, 06:38 AM
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I have the same issue with my Vivitar 383 and my K-r. It gets triggered by the preflash, and by the time the camera shutter opens, the flash light is gone. Although to my eye, it appears to be synced (going off at the same time). The frustrating thing is that this flash worked fine as a slave with my old K100D Super. I wonder if that camera didn't have a preflash? I have also had a ton of other problems with this flash and my K-r as discussed here https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-k-r-forum/137599-vivitar-flash-kr-...ml#post1482100 .
The strange thing is that if I set my flash to anything below 1/2 power, it actually does sync. But 1/1 and 1/2 don't sync. It seems like it would be the opposite. I'd think the stronger power would have more light lingering even if it's late.
My camera is in M mode, so I'm not sure why I even need a preflash to measure exposure to begin with. I'm looking for a new flash now, but I don't trust that any other one (besides the Pentax flashes $$$) will do any better. Makes it hard to shop. I don't trust the p-TTL "standard" anymore, since my p-TTL Vivitar flash doesn't work with the newer K-r (or K-5) systems.
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Forum: Pentax K-r
09-22-2011, 12:55 PM
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I just switched over from a K100D Super to the K-r. I actually noticed that my manual lenses don't meter. They work, but I don't get the +/- EV scale in my viewfinder like I usually do in Manual mode. Sure, I can press the Green button to stop down and measure, and I get a good expose, but there doesn't seem to be any realtime metering like on my K100D. Am I doing something wrong?
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Forum: Pentax K-r
04-27-2011, 10:38 AM
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Boo... Got this message back from Pentax...
Thank you for contacting Pentax.
We don't test our DSLRs for compatibility with non-Pentax brand flashes. It may be that the K-r with the firmware update is no longer compatible with your Vivtar flash. We would not expect Pentax Japan to be developing any firmware upgrade for our DSLRs to address compatibility issues with other brand flashes.
If you are in need of further assistance, please respond to this email or call our technical support center at 800-877-0155.
So I guess that makes it okay, right? It's not just my flash.
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Forum: Pentax K-r
04-25-2011, 11:13 AM
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I recently upgraded to a K-r from a K100D Super. My Vivitar DF-383 flash is also having these problems. In TTL mode, it just strobes uncontrollably. It also can no longer detect the f-stop, zoom, or ISO from the camera correctly. In manual mode it works, but it will only fire every other shutter release for some reason. All the contact points seem fine.
I read about other people having some of these problems here. I'm wondering if the new K-r and K5 have changed the P-TTL system and it's not conforming to the previous standards. I have an email in to Pentax to see what's up.
But the big thing I want to point out is that this flash worked when I first tested it with my K-r. I did not to a super elaborate test, but I remember briefly testing the TTL auto modes, manual modes, rear curtain, etc. on the flash to make sure it worked with my new camera. I don't remember having any issues. A few days later, I upgraded my K-r to the latest firmware. It was a few weeks before I used the flash again, and these problems started happening.
I'm wondering if it's just a flaw in the current firmware that's making it behave crazy.
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Forum: Video Recording and Processing
04-07-2011, 05:54 AM
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I can confirm that this works on the K-r too. However, I can't get it to work using Av. However, it works if you make your settings in Program mode. I'm not sure if it has to do with the software in that setting, or just that P mode is right next to Movie on the dial so the time it takes to get there is less. Maybe it loses the lock data in the amount of time it takes to get to Movie from Av?Another thing I noticed is that you can't lock in an Auto ISO range. Even if you are in auto ISO, the exposure will lock at the ISO used when the lock was metered. No biggie.
But I can only get this trick to work using my old manual lenses. I tried it with my 18-55 kit lens (from a K100D Super) and the lock doesn't carry over. Must have something to do with the computer detecting the aperture from the lens. Anyone else have this issue? I can't figure out how to get an auto lens to exposure lock.
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Forum: Pentax Lens Articles
12-17-2010, 08:52 AM
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I have a nice old manual f1.8 Minolta lens I'd like to use on my Pentax.
Isn't there a way to do this without physical modification?
Could I find a Minolta to M42 adapter, then get an M42 to K-mount adapter? Or would stacking two adapters affect focus?
Or what about putting a teleconverter between the two, would that work?
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
07-24-2009, 08:55 AM
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I have been getting similarly soft images from the SMC Pentax-M (manual) 50mm f2 lens I just picked up on ebay. It is VERY hard to get a sharp shot at the lower f stops. At f3.5 or f4, it is quite sharp, but focusing below that is hit or miss.
More often than not, my subject looks out-of-focus, not just un-sharp. I can practice the same f2 shot 10 times, and randomly get 2 shots that come out crisp and the others fuzzy. I use the AF indicator beep, but it doesn't seem very accurate. The crazy thing is that everything usually shows up good in the viewfinder, but the actual picture comes out blurry.
Is this just a problem with this lens? It's also weird that the focus ring turns REALLY FAR, almost 3 hand twists, but it seems like only about 20% of that range is focusable to me. I also find that at infinity, I'd like to go a little further to focus, but the focus ring is already maxed out. And sometimes in my blurry shots, I find that other areas in my shot are very crisp, but not the subject under my center focus point. Could this be front/rear focusing? If so, is there a way to fix/compensate?
But I have found a trick that works most of the time. I set my camera to auto focusing, which forces a focus lock before allowing the shutter to release, even though I'm manual focusing the lens. I found that if I hold down the shutter all the way, and VERY slowly focus the ring, it will trigger automatically when it first hits the AF point. Most of these shots are considerably clearer than those I try to do 100% manual at f2. However, this is only practical for portraits, you'll miss a lot of shots if used for action.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
07-24-2009, 08:40 AM
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I just got an SMC Pentax-M 1:2 50mm f2 prime lens on ebay, and I'm pretty frustrated with it. I bought it so I could take more handheld low light photos, but it is VERY hard to get a sharp shot at the lower f stops. At f3.5 or f4, it is quite sharp, but focusing below that is hit or miss.
More often than not, my subject looks out-of-focus, not just un-sharp. I can practice the same f2 shot 10 times, and randomly get 2 shots that come out crisp and the others fuzzy. I use the AF indicator beep, but it doesn't seem very accurate. The crazy thing is that everything usually shows up good in the viewfinder, but the actual picture comes out blurry.
Is this just a problem with this lens? It's also weird that the focus ring turns REALLY FAR, almost 3 hand twists, but it seems like only about 20% of that range is focusable to me. Does the difference in digital sensor size to film have something to do with its focus? I also find that at infinity, I'd like to go a little further to focus, but the focus ring is already maxed out. And sometimes in my blurry shots, I find that other areas in my shot are very crisp, but not the subject under my center focus point. Any ideas?
But I have found a trick that works most of the time. I set my camera to auto focusing, which forces a focus lock before allowing the shutter to release, even though I'm manual focusing the lens. I found that if I hold down the shutter all the way, and VERY slowly focus the ring, it will trigger automatically when it first hits the AF point. Most of these shots are considerably clearer than those I try to do 100% manual at f2. However, this is only practical for portraits, you'll miss a lot of shots if used for action.
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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
07-24-2009, 07:52 AM
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Thanks for all your help.
I actually just ordered the Vivitar 383 off of B&H. Can't wait to try it out!
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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
07-21-2009, 07:05 AM
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I looked through your Vivitar 383 review. I think you're right, seems the same as the Bower. In fact, I think this unit has been rebadged by many manufacturers. I also found a Digital Concepts flash that appears to be identical.
I'm assuming they're all of equal quality. Maybe the manufacturer support/warranty may vary.
One more question about your Vivitar, does it have rear curtain sync? I do a lot of night shooting and that's one of the main features I need.
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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
07-17-2009, 12:17 PM
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Earlier when I said "wireless", I really meant that I wanted to be able to remotely trigger. I'm not looking for any fancy radio technology, I'm looking for a slave mode that fires when it detects your camera's internal flash fire.
But it seems hard to tell by the specs if flashes have that feature. Does anyone know the name of what I should be looking for? Is it just "slave"?
I see a lot of flashes with the red lens in front. I always assumed that was an AF lamp, but maybe it's a IR sensor?
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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
07-17-2009, 06:03 AM
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Thanks for the suggestions.
I was also wondering about the Pentax AF 280T. This has bounce and swivel, and an auto mode. But besides that, it looks pretty bare bones. But at $16 on ebay, may not be bad. Although I'm not sure the auto mode would work.
My question is, do our Pentax cameras require P-TTL in order to work correctly? It seems like most people say that a normal TTL flash will always fire at full power.
It's been such a long time since I used an external flash, I don't remember how a manual flash works. If I meter for the scene, and use a flash, how do I account for all the extra light coming from the flash? Seems kind of unpredictable. I know the camera's flash sync speed is 1/180th, but I don't know what means exactly.
If it were P-TTL, would my camera's meter take that into account for the exposure so I can choose the right SS and A?
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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
07-16-2009, 12:02 PM
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I've been looking for a good flash to use instead of my K100D Super's built-in unit.
It's been a while since my last photo course, and I'm having a hard time remembering how to compare flashes and their features.
But my must have features are:- Good compatibility with K100D Super
- Rotate AND swivel head
- Rear curtain sync
- Some form of AUTO mode
- Wireless / slave possibility
It would also be nice to have an AF assist lamp feature.
I'm looking for something cheap and likely used on eBay, preferably $100 or under. I don't care how old school. I'm not a pro, and I don't need the fanciest or best out there.
Any ideas on a good, well-rounded flash that has these features?
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