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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 02-21-2023, 03:49 AM  
A comparison of some old 85mm lenses.
Posted By Wasp
Replies: 17
Views: 1,888
Since this thread is about animals and 85mm lenses, here is my take (Rokinon 85mm f/1.4):



Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras 11-01-2022, 09:30 PM  
Asahi spotmatic sp battery recommendation
Posted By Roger1954
Replies: 73
Views: 150,424
Hi

I have ordered the 392 and the 394 to try. Will update when I have tried them.

Roger
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras 11-01-2022, 07:18 PM  
Asahi spotmatic sp battery recommendation
Posted By Roger1954
Replies: 73
Views: 150,424
Hi there

You are dead right.

The + terminal of the battery needs to be face down when inserting it. I had no idea that the battery could go in the wrong way around and still give a reading. The needle does in fact work in reverse if the battery + terminal is facing out. What I have found with the battery inserted this way is that the meter is out by one stop which is the same if the battery is inserted with the + terminal facing down. I adjusted for this by adding one stop to the ISO setting = 200 ISO film and 400 ISO setting. With the camera set like this the metering is spot on with 2 other Nikon DSLRs that I have.

My apologies to everyone that was misled by my stating that the Renata 390 battery fits when it clearly doesn't if it is inserted the correct way with the + terminal facing down when inserting it.

Thank you and Mikeavision for the posts and answers to all of this. If yourself or anyone else has bought 390 batteries after my post, give me your email address and I will pay for any batteries that you have bought.

Regards

Roger

---------- Post added 11-01-22 at 07:22 PM ----------


Hi Mike

Please see my reply to Whojammyflip.

The 390 battery is the wrong battery as he said. I was inserting the battery the wrong way around. Although it gave a reading inserted incorrectly the reading was in reverse when moving the aperture or shutter.

You are also correct with the batteries that you recommended. I would prefer to use silver oxide. I will try the types that you have both suggested.

Thank you both for your time and input.

Regards

Roger
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras 10-31-2022, 09:17 PM  
Asahi spotmatic sp battery recommendation
Posted By Roger1954
Replies: 73
Views: 150,424
Hi there

I have done a video showing the installation of the Renata 390 Silver Oxide battery into the Pentax SP1000. I'm not very good at the video but it shows what you need to see, The last clip shows a view through the viewfinder of the SP where you can see the meter needle responding to my changing aperture and shutter speed.

I have also added below the Renata website that gives all of the spec and sizes of their batteries. If you scroll down and click on the link to the battery lists it shows the detail of spec and sizes. I believe that the 344 battery that they do which is 11.6mm X 3.6mm will be a better fit depth wise and would not have given me the problem I had with one of the camera meters not working until I lifted the contact in the battery housing a bit.

Video link:

Pentax SP with Renata 390 | Fitting 390 Battery | Roger Latapie | Flickr

Renata Website:

https://www.renata.com/en/products/silver-oxide-batteries/

Roger.

---------- Post added 10-31-22 at 09:18 PM ----------


Hi Mike

I have done a video showing the installation of the Renata 390 Silver Oxide battery into the Pentax SP1000. I'm not very good at the video but it shows what you need to see, The last clip shows a view through the viewfinder of the SP where you can see the meter needle responding to my changing aperture and shutter speed.

I have also added below the Renata website that gives all of the spec and sizes of their batteries. If you scroll down and click on the link to the battery lists it shows the detail of spec and sizes. I believe that the 344 battery that they do which is 11.6mm X 3.6mm will be a better fit depth wise and would not have given me the problem I had with one of the camera meters not working until I lifted the contact in the battery housing a bit.

Video link:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/196850002@N06/52469528180/in/dateposted-public/

Renata Website:

https://www.renata.com/en/products/silver-oxide-batteries/

Roger.

Read more at: Asahi spotmatic sp battery recommendation - Page 4 - PentaxForums.com
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras 10-31-2022, 12:53 PM  
Asahi spotmatic sp battery recommendation
Posted By titrisol
Replies: 73
Views: 150,424
You can pry the bottom contact a little bit to fit those 390 batteries, or add a tiny spring
Eric sent my Spotmatic back with a LR41 battery (384 in american)
392 (LR736 / AG3 in european) and 394 (AG9) are spot on
395 also works (from my 2003 notes)
You can use a spacer if you want, a thin o-ring is sufficient
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 11-15-2016, 08:26 AM  
Pentax 16-85 or Sigma 17-50
Posted By Heie
Replies: 8
Views: 2,086
I have owned and used both lenses professionally, and here is my path as it should help illuminate some light on your decision. Right from the start, I want to apologize for not having any images embedded in this post as is my usual custom (for those familiar with my contributions here). I am in an austere environment and on a work computer, so no access to my Lightroom catalog (not to mention the bandwidth needed to upload imagery), however my website is Alex Jansen Photography | index and you can gauge my photography in a general manner there.

I originally had the DA* 16-50 and sung it's praises for many years. You may have seen me as the one that buried my own copy of the lens (and other bodies/lenses) in a sandbag in Afghanistan. I used the 16-50 for about 3 years before trading it for the Sigma 17-50 as I stopped being in such extreme conditions - I relocated from Germany and being a military public affairs officer to being a student as my career path had changed. I am now in my alternate career field and find a need for austere photographic gear, but I'll touch on that in a minute.

I traded for the 17-50 because I was doing events (i.e. weddings) and I had long heard of the IQ benefits over the DA* 16-50. I decided to give it a try, especially since I secured a copy of the Sigma for about $275 and sold my DA* 16-50 for over twice that. The rumors, speculation, lore, what-have you are absolutely correct - the Sigma 17-50 is UNDENIABLY the better optic. In literally every regard. The ONLY thing that the Pentax has over it is the name brand (if that's important to you) and tank-like construction. Otherwise, literally everything else (AF, price, IQ throughout the range, CA-control, etc.) just embarrasses that of the DA*. And that's tough for me to say because I was one of its staunchest advocates for a long time. The real disappointment, however, is the realization that I should have made the switch sooner.

The one caveat to the above, however, is if you are a landscape photographer only shooting between F5.6-9 because in that range, I've never had a landscape lens make an image POP the way the DA* 16-50 does. There's something truly magical about its rendering, and I have to give that credit to where it is deserved. The Sigma is similarly sharp and crisp, but its rendering is a bit more "clinical" rather than "full of pixie-dust" as some Pentaxians have come to expect name brand lenses.

Then after about 18 months I sold the Sigma because I had a deployment coming up and there were rumors it was not going to be behind a desk...

I acquired the 16-85 as a replacement for my standard lens on my K-3 (the only crop camera I have now despite also owning/having lots of experience with the K-7, K-5, K-30, K-50, and K-5 IIs), and it has be the dominant lens on my camera since arriving to where I am. I also brought my Pentax 10-17, Samyang 24, DA* 55, DFA 100 WR, and DA* 60-250, but the 16-85 has really been the dominant lens on my camera until recently when I procured a K-1 and 28-105. Despite owning the 28-105, I find myself using the 16-85 on the K-3 because I have the DA* 55 glued to my K-1 - that combination is such other-worldly in FF mode. As such, that is my "dual wield" set-up when documenting whatever I encounter. The 28-105 is similar to the 16-85 in that it is compact, fast focusing, and very sharp and crisp across the frame. With either, I don't find myself missing the sharpness of the Sigma 17-50 however the aperture is certainly noticed.

I had to do it all over again, I'd get the Sigma 17-50 earlier and then decide very seriously if WR was really needed. If WR IS NOT needed for the crop sensor, the Sigma 17-50 is not only the best choice for a standard zoom but it is imo the only choice due to its price and features. Otherwise the 16-85 is a very close second and it's only "demise" is the aperture - IQ, especially in good daylight, will not leave you wanting.

-Heie
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras 12-10-2009, 11:42 PM  
Rollei Retro 100: First Impressions
Posted By stevebrot
Replies: 26
Views: 15,769
About a month ago, I took the plunge and ordered a 100' roll of Rollei Retro 100. There is considerable speculation about this film, who makes it, and what its heritage is. It is fairly well established that at the early rolls were rebranded Agfa APX 100. My film was made by Maco in Germany and bears the imprint on the sprocket margin "APX 100/Retro 100". Most descriptions state that Retro 100 is "equivalent" to APX 100 and the general opinion is that the emulsion is the same formulation.

One thing I have learned is that I am a bit of a contrarian. There is the conventional way and then there is the route I go. Conventional wisdom is that I should have used Rodinal or HC110 as my developer choice. Nope, not me! I had used Edwal FG-7 in the hazy, distant past with very good results, so FG-7 it would be again. Luckily, I was able to find a couple of sources as well as recommended development times. So far, so good.

I ran an initial roll through on of my Ricohs at the recommended ISO 80 (the KX is occupied with Kodachrome at the moment and will be until I exhaust my stash), found my developing tanks, and processed in FG-7 for the recommended time (10 minutes @ 70F). The results were...ummmm...less than inspiring. Dull and muddy for the most part. It also did not help that I mis-fed the film onto the developing reels with many frames ruined as a result (more on that later...). After taking a look at the roll as a whole, it appeared that density overall was much higher than it should have been.

As a result, the next roll was dedicated to Zone I, V, and VIII series at ISO 50, 64, 80, 100, 125, 160, and 200 to determine the best target film speed. I also did a test setup with the Kodak 7 step Gray Scale target, a white terrycloth washcloth, a black plush toy, and a pair of dark gray binoculars. The intent was to provide a full range from Zone 0 through X with texture present at the extremes. I photographed the test setup at ISO 80, 100, 160, and 200. I also did several general photography shots in my neighborhood at both ISO 100 and ISO 200.

I processed again in FG-7, taking care to avoid excessive agitation. (I was a little over enthusiastic with the first roll.) The results confirmed my suspicions. Despite the recommendation from digitaltruth's "Massive Dev Chart", ISO 80 with FG-7 was way too slow. Yes, there was plenty of definition in the low values, but the highlights were way blown. I don't own a densitometer, but did manually inspect the Zone I frames. Sure enough, there was readily visible density at ISO 160. The Zone VIII frames were uniformly dense for all ISO settings. Careful examination of scans of the test setup indicated that ISO 160 very nicely supported the full 10 step density range.

Woo! Hoo! ISO 160, it is! :cool::cool::cool: (Way better than ISO 80)

This should not have surprised me. Edwal generally recommends doubling the ISO for films developed using their standard times. I used to shoot Panatomic-X at ASA/ISO 64 even though it was rated at ASA/ISO 32.

So, what are my early impressions based upon these first four rolls?
  • Rollei Retro 100 is seriously flimsy. Although Rollei advertises a 120μm cellulose triacetate base, the film in real life seems to be much thinner and feels more like polyester. I am so happy I don't shoot the 120/220 roll film version (95μm base)!

  • Flimsy film makes for difficult loading on the processing reels. My last roll required FOUR tries before it loaded cleanly on my SS reel.

  • Flimsy film also make for curly negatives. I had read about the film curl issue and took precautions. I set up a humidifier in the room where I hung the film and also draped a number of wet towels to keep the humidity up. After several hours, I checked to see how the film looked. Wonderful! There was absolutely no curve or curl! I took the strips off the hangers, cut them into 5 frame lengths, and carried them into the other room to be scanned. You can imagine my shock when the strips each took on about 160 degrees of arc before I sat down at my computer. :mad::mad::mad:

  • Beyond its physical characteristics, the film lives up to the claims for fine grain and tonality :):):)

  • Overexposure can yield dull results, at least with FG-7

  • Inexplicably, my 100' roll was apparent put on the reel BACKWARDS. Yes, the frame numbers count down, not up. Go figure...though at $40 USD per 100', I guess I can't complain.

For more technical information:
http://www.freestylephoto.biz/pdf/Rollei_Retro_100_400.pdf
So...How about a few pictures...

All taken with Ricoh XR-2s and XR Rikenon 50/2. Scanned with default settings using the Nikon Super Coolscan 5000 ED with minimal PP in Lightroom.

Sunlit Vine Maple at ISO 100

This one required a -1 stop exposure adjustment in Lightroom to get the gray tones right.


Metal Sculpture at ISO 200



Metal Sculpture detail (not a crop) at ISO 200



Maple Stump at ISO 200


Not too bad, though I will probably spend some time with TMax in HC110 after I run through the RR 100 :)

Steve
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 07-07-2018, 10:45 AM  
LBA, reasons for collecting
Posted By Cerebum
Replies: 53
Views: 4,075
Hi
I was reading another thread which was delving into whether kit can hold us back. I was also replying to another in which I listed recent, random obscure purchases and I began to question why I keep buying.

Regarding reaching the limits of our lenses capabilities, I am not even close. I sometimes test a lens and add it to the ebay list only to revisit in a different frame of mind and find it enchanting. I am not very far into my photographic journey and would probably benefit from company, but circumstances dictate. Also, flitting from lens to lens, as I do, I am probably not getting to know each lens, something I will address in time.

Regarding kit use, I tend to have a spell using primes then, after a week or so hanker after one of my zooms, and vice versa. I rarely carry more than one lens, preferring to select one in the morning and work with it at lunchtime or whenever else I get five minutes. I believe that using primes has helped my overall photography as I have to think harder about composition. Of course, this could be nonsense :) like I said, I am solitary so don't have someone telling me I am talking b®&*ocks again :)

As for purchases (the point of the post (finally)) my first prime was the smc da 35mm f2.4, which I love. My second prime was a Miranda (cosina) 24mm f2.8 macro which is a ka mount, which is also a delight. I absolutely loved the differences in operation and found that I felt added satisfaction from a manual focus lens. Next came a variety of Pentax-m lenses (50mm f2, 135mm f3.5, 200mm f4). I also picked up a cosina mc 135mm which was the first to hit the eBay pile, only to be resurrected. By this time I was addicted to the different handling characteristics of each lens and I think that is key. I am getting stuff based on it being different, which now I come to think of it, is pretty stupid given it should really all be about quality. But then I have (possibly accidentally) some beautiful glass! I have pancolars, preset takumars and lenses like the tak 100mm f4 macro that scores 98% on PF. The thing is, I live and work in a beautiful part of the UK, but every day I cover the same ground. Prior to my LBA I occasionally didn't take my camera because I felt like i had photographed everything. Now I choose a lens then think to myself "OK, let's see what I can get from this"! I recently had a back to basics week with my K3, 18-135mm and some filters where I concentrated on photography techniques rather than lens idiosyncracies but I am jonesing for primes again and today took out my DA 35mm. So that is me. I just love the feel of an alloy tessar and a slim, 60 year old preset Takumar and will probably continue to stock up, despite the fact that with what I have spent, I could probably have bought a couple of limiteds :) is this a common reason for LBA? I suspect there are others, hence the thread. It will be interesting to see who enters the confessional :)
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 01-02-2018, 03:44 AM  
the limiteds do they live up to the reputation and why
Posted By cyberjunkie
Replies: 384
Views: 51,019
I guess I'm going to ruffle some feathers :) but I think we all have the right to express our opinions, isn't it?
I have no experience about more recent Limiteds for APS-C, which I'm sure are different in many ways.
The Limiteds with FF coverage I've tried, and I still own and use, are tiny, well made, and AF.
These are huge merits, given the current panorama.
Though I wouldn't say that they excel optically, not in absolute terms at least.
All the hype about the 77mm is due to the two main reasons: 1) brand loyalty and cult status 2) very good rendition (reminding some great vintage lenses) in a compact all-metal AF package.
Don't get me wrong, I like it, but there are other cheaper MF lenses that have comparable sharpness and similar (very good) rendition.
Yes, it's AF. Yet it hunts a lot in low light (which is the kind of photography I usually do).
As most, if not all, photographic tools, it has its pros and cons.
I think the current prices of a second-hand example in good shape are high enough to suggest some caution. If you ask me, I'm not sure it's a must have. If you don't care that much about AF, a recent Samyang 1.4/85mm is probably slightly sharper at the same aperture, and can be found used for roughly one third of the price.
There are also better choices for portrait photography, but I'm not aware of any AF prime in the same range that is as practical and convenient (and has the same "character").
I've never used the 31mm, that is the other Limited with cult status, and the only one I never tried.
I had in mind to buy it, if it came at the right price, but I've never pulled the trigger, cause it's even more expensive, and AF is not as important at this focal. I couldn't justify the expense cause I have plenty of alternatives that are either sharper/faster (Samyang 1.4/35mm), have a great rendition at close range (Pentax/Zeiss 2/28mm), or are as practical (FA 2/35mm).
Of course I'm basing my considerations about the 31mm on full res images I found online. I'd prefer to compare in person :) but I don't think it will ever happen if I don't find a good bargain (let's say close to $500).
Which is an unmistakable symptom of serious LBA, all those affected know very well about that: I don't buy cause I don't need, but if I find a good deal, it's a damned good reason to buy just because I like...
But that's me, very fond of photographic lenses and their history, almost never selling, and buying a lot of them, for use or for collection, since the late seventies...
If I had to build a Pentax AF kit from scratch I'd go for a Sigma Art instead, bigger but also faster and sharper, and somewhat cheaper (especially second-hand).
Landscape enthusiasts who have to trek to remote locations would of course disagree. Personally I dislike any kind of unnecessary physical exercise, so I'm fine with a couple of huge primes most of the times, with my bike/car not too distant :)

Jokes aside, the only humble advice I have is a very simple one. Use some common sense, don't fall for web generated hype excesses, use the incredible amount of available informations and make up your own mind (possibly taking a close look to non resized online photos).
There are no magic bullets, but there many different points of view, and an almost infinite number of nuances and subtleties that are not so obvious to an uneducated eye. Looking at great pictures made with great (and often not so great) lenses helps a lot in finding what we like and what we don't, which lenses would help our creativity and which would serve no purpose, at the same time providing us with plenty of tricks and suggestions that help us explore different paths or do better what we already do.
Fashionable and expensive are not synonymous terms of useful and convenient. Following the hype is an easy shortcut, it just takes enough money!
I don't mean to be judgemental, just thinking of some prices skyrocketing because of collective Internet-induced mania.
Trioplan's are a good example. I really love them but I also think that current prices are unreasonable, and people should know better... leaving the heavily overpriced ones in the hands of opportunistic vendors.
FA Limited's should be appreciated in regard to their merits, not as status-defining items. We all fall for that, more or less, starting with myself. Being aware is at least a little step in the right direction.
Knowledge is the best antidote, unfortunately it does not come fast nor cheap.

To better clarify my point, a simple example.
I like my 40mm Limited, but I'm not sure I would be able to identify its pictures from others shot with the other old pancakes I have (the old M, two Cosina-made f/2.8 and f/2.5, plus a wonderful Konica f/1.8 that I keep with the fantasy of converting to PK). Of course the Limited is AF, light and pretty, but the performance on FF most likely won't be affected by all that...

Cheers

Paolo
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 03-17-2015, 06:42 PM  
prime, prime, everywhere a prime...
Posted By redrockcoulee
Replies: 18,679
Views: 1,000,635
I shot with manual focus prime lenses only for 14 years, back when they were only called lenses. I still use manual focus primes on my Hasselblad. With my Pentax I have 4 AF and I MF prime lenses. If I was in your place I would start with the DA 35 2.4. It is a good lens, inexpensive and is a normal focal length for your camera. With MF to start you are testing out if you like using primes at the same time you are seeing if you like to manual focus. Try the 35 2.4 and if you like primes pick up a manual focus 28 or 50 as they are cheap. After that look t the guys with hundreds of lenses and decide if you want to join them in their insanity.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 03-18-2016, 08:21 AM  
Resolution is not the same as IQ, not even close.
Posted By nomadkng
Replies: 54
Views: 5,306
I don't have to claim anything. I cited two concrete examples of your faulty methodology. If you do not wish to accept, or if you chose to dismiss my citations, that is one thing. But you have yet to admit to the discrepancies, nor have you addressed my hypothesis that these discrepancies might have had a effect on the pool results. Instead you continue to try and belittle me, or undermine my credibility. Now you equate me with scammers. Are you really suffering from such a high level of cognitive dissonance that all who disagree or challenge your beliefs must be relegated to the trash heap?
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 03-18-2016, 07:53 AM  
Resolution is not the same as IQ, not even close.
Posted By nomadkng
Replies: 54
Views: 5,306
I never once suggested lighting must be studio controlled. That is a straw man argument. Secondly, it is not my responsibility to provide data, it is YOUR responsibility to provide valid data when presenting a claim. You did not provide test subjects identical images from which they could make subjective choices. Therefore, you introduced several variables beyond the scope of your testing hypothesis that could effect the results. That is faulty methodology and I need not produce contradictory data as part of the review process. You may very well have a valid hypothesis, but the burden of proof lies with the claimant. You espouse your results as empirical, and given your response to my questioning, irrefutable. But It is one thing to present a theory and ask us to consider your theory, it is another to attack one who might question your conclusions.

If you wish only praise and validation, perhaps an open forum is not the place to present ideas. With your background in education, I though perhaps you were introducing a mental exercise to challenge us to think of things differently than perhaps we do. However, based on your response, it appears you are not open for debate and discussion, but rather wish to bludgeon others into accepting your philosophy as writ.

I take even greater exception to THAT approach, than I do your faulty testing methodologies or your derisive comments.
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 01-21-2014, 09:45 PM  
DSLR scanning
Posted By jonby
Replies: 24
Views: 5,591
I don't have photos of the setup I used unfortunately. I used a cheap Jessops lightbox as the light source, which is more or less daylight balanced. The colour printing filters lay directly on the light box. Colour printing filters are small square gel filters which you use to control colour balance when making colour enlargements on an enlarger that doesn't have in-built filters. They come in packs with cyan, magenta and yellow colours in different strengths, denoted by a 'unit' value - eg 5, 10, 20, 40 units, 40 being the strongest.

Above the filters, I used a negative carrier from an enlarger to hold the film flat. This also holds the film well above the filters and light box, so that dust and scratches don't come into focus. Above that of course there is the lens and camera, supported on a copy stand.

Stone G demonstrates here that using filters is not essential - it is possible to get pretty good results without them. However, you can see from his histograms how dark and compressed the red channel is compared to the green and especially the blue channel in the original image following inversion. In order to get 'normal' colour balance and contrast, the red channel must be stretched and brightened to a high degree. The same information is being stretched over a wider brightness range, which reduces quality. The idea behind the colour filters is to effectively counteract the orange mask (as much as possible) before shooting, so that the channels are more or less equal in brightness and contrast in the captured image. This then requires a less aggressive stretching of the red channel in order to reach normal balance and contrast, thus causing a smaller drop in quality.

If you shoot in raw, then I don't think the difference will be huge, but my philosophy is that you might as well do what you can to maintain as much of what is contained in the film as possible.

It's very late where I am and I must go to bed now but I'll post some images as soon as I can.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 01-13-2014, 02:44 PM  
Buying and Selling Lenses
Posted By Lloydy
Replies: 26
Views: 3,357
I've even bought lenses that I haven't got a camera for. :confused::lol:
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 01-13-2014, 12:15 AM  
Buying and Selling Lenses
Posted By jatrax
Replies: 26
Views: 3,357
You can sell lenses? What a horrible thought............
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 01-12-2014, 11:47 PM  
Buying and Selling Lenses
Posted By stevebrot
Replies: 26
Views: 3,357
It is obviously not a good idea to sell. Hoarding...the final solution.


Steve
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 01-29-2014, 07:07 AM  
feedback on a review posted here.
Posted By Driline
Replies: 7
Views: 1,144
I don't believe the user reviews are meant to be long and drawn out. I think your review is excellent, but I would just keep it to 2 or 3 pics.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 01-30-2014, 04:34 AM  
28mm f2.8 and 35mm f3.5 dilemma?
Posted By Jonathan Mac
Replies: 17
Views: 5,078
The f/3.5 k-mount Pentax wide-angles are extremely sharp wide open. The K 28mm is better than the M, but not because it's sharper, but is also much bigger and heavier. The K 35/3.5 is also superb. The 35mm choices in the M series are f/2 and f/2.8, both are quite rare but the f/2 is very good indeed. If you can get one, that would be my recommendation. 35mm will rule out any really wide shots, but I find 35mm a much more useable focal length in general.

I would also recommend fitting a small 50mm lens in too, perhaps an M 50/1.7. It won't add much space or weight to your kit and will give you much more flexibility.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 01-31-2014, 06:12 AM  
Pentax K 28mm f2 or Carl Zeiss Distagon T* ZK 28mm f/2 lens for Pentax K
Posted By blende8
Replies: 100
Views: 26,418
To show that a lens has a specific "3D-effect", you have to shoot the exact same scene with different lenses.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 01-29-2014, 01:36 PM  
Pentax K 28mm f2 or Carl Zeiss Distagon T* ZK 28mm f/2 lens for Pentax K
Posted By blende8
Replies: 100
Views: 26,418
In my view this talk about a lens specific "3D-Look" is nonsense.
It depends entirely on the subject/scene and the skills of the photographer.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 02-16-2014, 06:26 PM  
Does a decent, cheap telephoto prime exist?
Posted By wildman
Replies: 26
Views: 3,353
In a word - no.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 02-23-2014, 09:02 AM  
Fast Portrait Prime
Posted By stevebrot
Replies: 40
Views: 3,881
8x10 ;)


Steve
Forum: Photographic Technique 02-11-2011, 10:34 PM  
APS-C vs FF : myth or reality?
Posted By Jewelltrail
Replies: 86
Views: 17,317





QuoteQuote:

jsherman999: Agreed, it isn't the main reason to get a FF camera for probably the majority of folks. Main reason is probably noise performance at high ISO, second reason is probably the advanced features and fast AF (as you say below.) DOF control and viewfinder probably follow those reasons (for most people.)



emphasis added

I’ve been reading these kinds of comparison FF/APS-c threads now for years. I never cease to be amazed how the focus is always upon DOF & ISO, with viewfinders either out of the discussion altogether, or a footnote mention at best.

Like so many others here, I came to Pentax APS-c to shoot my old manual focus glass on a DSLR. The so-called “backwards compatibility” argument in favor of Pentax is a paradox of sorts. A paradox, because, IMO, the cart is before the horse in the APS-c technology. Sure, I can mount up my pristine Auto-Tak 85mm f 1.8 to my K20d, but whether or not I can get a shot in focus is another issue. Towards better focus, I use an 1.3 eyepiece & split prism, which negatively affects the already feeble viewfinder, as the field is cropped. Let’s get real.

2 vital & elementary elements towards great pics are focus & composition, both of which are achieved through the viewfinder which, IMO, given my desire to manually focus, is not acceptable. And yet these discussions inevitably center themselves upon ISO & DOF, both of which should take a back seat to the viewfinder IMO: the viewfinder’s role is elementary & hence a priority. Herein lies the paradox: we are all sold that we must live with a sub-par viewfinder, that it is a natural byproduct of the APS-c technology. BULL****. If I go to FF, it will be for the viewfinder. Hell, in my 3 years now with the K20d, I have shot over ISO 1600 on one real occasion, inside an aquarium. I would gladly sacrifice 2 stops of performance on the K5, if the technology went into a better means for Mfing. Of course I realize there are many for whom the ISO performance is important, that is not what I am discussing against here though.

I am currently looking into m 4/3rds systems, some of which have found ways to make MFing a pleasure again. Yes, the tradeoffs will be there too, but if I can compose and focus with ease, I’ll be happy and ready to go to the lower priorities in shooting a camera, like using DOF creatively, or getting fast shutter speeds for action shots.

Don’t get me wrong, I love my Pentax DSLR, but find the viewfinder unacceptable for this level of taking pictures, and certainly so for a camera which cost me $1200. My little sub $300 P & S cameras, with the LCD, made composition easier. The live view on my Pentax is very, very limited.

So here are my 2 questions:

1) Why in the world is the viewfinder left out of these discussions?

2) How in the world did Pentax bamboozle us all into the “backwards compatibility” sale, with the mediocre viewfinders in their DSLRS.

Please, do not tell me about how these viewfinders are actually better than the C & N competition. I shot my Panny FZ 28 in manual focus mode, which allows for more precision than my K20d.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 01-28-2011, 07:21 AM  
Choosing a Lens
Posted By Ira
Replies: 20
Views: 3,626
I don't regret not owning a particular focal length for my all primes collection. And I never regret not having the right prime on there for the moment.

I just don't care.

The next time I go to the Zoo and want to shoot, I'll bring my 35, 50 and 200.

If the ape is too far away for 200, screw him.
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras 01-09-2011, 02:32 PM  
Little MX, big viewfinder
Posted By Sluggo
Replies: 16
Views: 5,756
I wanted to put some thoughts jotted down now, after getting some satisfying shots out of the MX, and while waiting for a new-to-me K20D body to be delivered -- by which I mean, before the upcoming new-toy digital phase.

Whenever I've been shooting digital, as I was over the holidays for various reasons, picking up one of the better film bodies seems almost like learning to breathe again. The world slows down, and I'm at peace with it. That probably has a lot to do with the subjects that seem to invite film use, but I also associate it with being given a big, clear viewfinder and having chimping taken away, which absolutely changes the process. Not to shoot and then verify (or hope) that a good picture resulted, but to compose, evaluate, move around, check depth of field, think about how the light falls, adjust the framing ... and to know, at the moment the button is pressed, what is being recorded. Plus for presbyopic folks like me, it's nice to avoid the irritation of having to repeatedly screw your vision up close to look at a screen in your hands, zoom in on this bit and then that bit., ... is it sharp enough?... hmm, maybe better do it again....

Rather: a long look, some personal involvement in the scene ... hold your breath ... squeeze the shutter release, and walk away satisfied. It just seems like a good Tao-ish discipline to observe, at least whenever circumstances allow it: drink in what you find, experience it richly, and don't feel you have to keep reliving it, groundhog-day-like, until you get it right.

Again, these are reflections on the eve of a digital upgrade, which will have its own sort of charm and usefulness. But I want to remember what there is to keep coming back to.

Surely it's not just me - when you pick up a film SLR for the first time in a little while, does it make you sometimes wax philosophical too?


MX, A28/2, YA2 orange filter, Fomapan 200 film, xtol 1:1
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