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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
05-30-2018, 10:15 AM
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I've just bought a "Wassen" labelled wireless flash trigger which also looks like (except what I take to be an additional bit of plastic with a hole to take a brolley tube) the "KAAVIE" one in the photo that BigMackCam posted. Mine cost £7.10 through Amazon in the UK although I think the source was China. I bought it because I'd broken the wires in the transmitter of my first purchase of an identical device trying to replace the 12V battery. With the help of other members I'd just repaired the original. What is of interest is that having two and their being cheap I tried one with an old Bowens Illumitron which has a flash trigger voltage of 200V and it worked! I can't claim that its electronics won't eventually fry but I'd have thought that if something was going to break down it would have done so at the first contact of such a high, if transient, voltage. I've got a SMDV SM-512 safe sync which cost three times the price of the Wassen and which refuses to trigger the high voltage of the Illumitron. If the Wassen continues to operate it seems to me that I have a cheap device which will work both as a wireless trigger and a safe sync.
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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
05-29-2018, 06:23 AM
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Thank you very much to all that helped me, particularly Lake who risked dismantling his trigger to show me the connections. I've wired it up as Lake prescribed with only one connection to the aerial and it works fine.
Barry
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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
05-27-2018, 12:12 PM
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Thank very much Lake. I´ll wire it up as you suggest and see how it goes but I need to purchase a 12V battery before I will know..
Interestingly in my search with a multi-meter to try to suss out which wire goes where I discovered that my model has a hot shoe connector with two connections, to connect with the outside of the hotshoe - you can see them in my photo - but they are not electrically connected.
I´m sure you are right anyway and thank you very much for undoing your flash trigger to help me.
Barry
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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
05-22-2018, 08:42 AM
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Thanks for the reply Class A, Yes the location for the red wire you suggest matched my guess too, in fact I think I can just see the remains of the broken wire left in the solder. I also agree about the other black wire being the aerial but I´ve researched this model wireless trigger and there are guides suggesting that the wire should be connected at both ends but folk were removing it completely and replacing it by a coil of wire soldered at one just end, The end of the wire has obviously also had the insulation trimmed which wouldn´t be necessary, and wold probably be a hindrance, maybe causing shorts if it is an aerial. I´m away for a while and I´ll test things out when I get back.
Thanks again,
Barry
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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
05-17-2018, 01:05 PM
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Hi,
This is a long-shot but it is possible that some sympathetic soul may be able to help me.I have a cheap "Wansen" 4 channel wireless transmitter for flash which I haven't used much but need to employ now. Unfortunately the transmitter's battery 23A 12V (I assume the 23A is a poorly thought out code number since I can't see this little battery (about the diameter of a AA cell but about half as long) supplying over 270 Watts) had gone flat so I took the transmitter apart to replace it. Sadly in doing so I broke the connection of first one of the black leads and then the red one. Difficult to believe that the connections broke so easily. The kit isn't expensive so I've just ordered a replacement set via Amazon for about £8. But, of course it is coming from China and so won't arrive for three weeks or so and I'd really like to use it before that.
****WARNING**** THE WIRES INSIDE ARE VERY THIN AND THEY BREAK VERY EASILY NEAR THEIR SOLDER CONNECTION!
I think I know where the red lead should be connected but I've no clue, and can see no indication despite looking at the item under a magnifying glass, as the where the black lead connects. If anybody is familiar with these transmitters or is prepared to be enormously generous and helpful and would VERY CAREFULLY undo one they have and VERY CAREFULLY take a photo or otherwise tell me to where the wires connect I would be most grateful. PLEASE OH PLEASE do not damage your own unit in trying to assist me.
I intend to replace these tiny single strand wires with something a little more meaty.
Thanks - even if you have considered helping and decided otherwise.
Barry
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Forum: Welcomes and Introductions
12-13-2009, 04:05 PM
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Hello. I live in England, bought my first Pentax in the early '70s and last year I bought a Samsung GX10 (I hope that isn't a bad thing to confess on a Pentax forum) with the two kit lenses. I've a plethora of old K-mount lenses that I have inherited although I'm not using them as much as I thought I would even though I don't really mind using the camera in manual mode - I think I just get lazy using the autofocus. I'm interested in buying a macro lens at some stage and my immediate need is for a flash. I've read quite a lot about different flashes on this site and elsewhere but it still seems a bit of a mindfield to me. I've tried using an old flash on the camera but found that it blocked to built in flash (I was disappointed not to get a PC socket on the camera) and that I didn't seem to get autofocus working when usiing it. I imagine that there wasn't enough background light to allow that to work. The powerful P-TTL flashes seem expensive and I can't really see why I need all the complexity of a flash being controlled through the camera. I used to get on just fine setting the aperture, letting my old SP500 trigger the flash and have the sensor on the flash control the duration. Sorry - I probably should be posting this as a thread somewhere?
Anyway thanks for a great forum and pleased to be aboard.
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