|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
06-22-2012, 04:21 AM
|
| |
My LX suffers from sticky mirror from time to time.
If you have this problem, how often does it occur?
I can't get it to happen when I test...it seems to strike when I'm actually shooting film (how convenient)
Out of 36 shots, 4 came out over-exposed, completely white on the negative therefore undeveloped (or is this under-exposure?)
I thought the shutter closes when the mirror gets stuck, therefore preserving the image?
All in all, will sticky mirror syndrome ruin an exposure?
|
|
Forum: Monthly Photo Contests
10-01-2011, 10:52 PM
|
| |
Wellington, New Zealand: A worker crouches over a damaged sewer pipe awaiting a live-feed cable-camera to be pulled through. Due to the internal pipe damage, this small but specialised company of 8 workers was called in from their on-going work at the earthquake-damaged city of Christchurch, which had a 6.3 magnitude quake in February. Working only at night when the streets were quiet, the team completed the job in one week, returning to Christchurch immediately after.
Shot on ILFORD HP5 Plus 400, September 2011.
|
|
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
09-22-2011, 06:48 AM
|
| |
These are all good. But, my prints are more likely to get separated from their original bunch. Some are stored in different albums and used on various projects, some stay on the fridge or make their way to a friends house, some are handed down or simply don't have a place to live, even in their original lab envelope with all the others. So, these suggestions are good. But I'm leaning towards marking each original print with the corresponding negative number so a simple turn-over will reveal where it belongs (either physically or digitally - all indexing will be made universal). This won't take too long with the amount of negs & prints I've got. And just a small task to do once a new set is developed.
So I guess I'm looking to for the best way to mark them without affecting the print. Will try the stickers, my only worry is that they may cause dark spots when viewing the print under bright light due to the thickness and density. Maybe a simple pencil marking is the way forward haha.
Will work on the focus issue. Usually the background is in focus, whilst the subject is not. Appears fine in viewfinder.
|
|
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
09-20-2011, 07:21 PM
|
| |
1) What systems do you use for the filing and organisation of negatives and their respective prints? I have about 20 sets of negatives, I want a filing system to match the prints with their negatives. So when a print gets separated from it's negative, it can be matched again.
The most obvious answer is marking the back of the print with a marker/pen, but I've found the writing either dissolves or indents through the other side. I was thinking to write on stickers, then stick them on. What do you use?
2) I have a lot of exposures which are out of focus. When shooting them, they appear in focus. This is on a 50mm f1.7. I'm guessing due to the aperture being wide open, this out-of-focus thing is actually an extreme and unwanted DOF issue. On my last roll I stopped down to 2.8 on some photos and it seemed to solve it. Does this sound right? I'm shooting street photography at night, so I need it reasonably wide open.
Pentax "ME" Super
Thanks!
|
|
Forum: Site Suggestions and Help
12-06-2009, 01:36 AM
|
| |
Great. I'll be sure to post some from my ME Super too.
I noticed the uploader on Blogger can loose quality (quite noticeable actually) to photos I upload. Judging by the train pictures added by Ole, this is not the case here right?
|
|
Forum: Site Suggestions and Help
12-06-2009, 01:19 AM
|
| |
Is it ok to post photos taken from non-Pentax cameras?
I was moments away from signing up to Flickr, but I don't need a Yahoo account so I'd rather avoid it.
Thanks for the addition!
|
|
Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands
10-30-2009, 02:54 PM
|
| |
I understand some DSLRs can shoot video, but I was meaning more towards Video Cameras alone.
I believe this is more lens related than what you're actually shooting on (DSLR, HD Video, DV Pro - it don't matter)
|
|
Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands
10-30-2009, 02:27 PM
|
| |
I know this isn’t photography related, but this seems like the most appropriate place to post.
Look at this video: YouTube - SEOULMATES GRAFFITI TOUR EPISODE 12 (Antwerp feat.MAD`C)
Scrub to 1 minute and 17 seconds (1:17). See this shot, with the girl?
Besides taking pictures sometimes I'm also into making videos. I really like this shot with the girl and want to recreate that "look".
I'd say it's a safe bet to assume this is all because of the lens he is using. It does seem like a pretty good camera, most likely a HD Semi-professional cam, maybe even a RED. But how can I go about doing this?
It's all in the aperture right? Seems like the f-stop is around f/1.2 to give that amazing shallow depth of field. But also seems like the fish-eye is still being used as the diffraction is quite noticeable. Are there special lens you can buy for video cameras for this type of DOF?
I know it is a bit over the top, but I can see it being used really well in film.
Thanks!
|
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
09-29-2009, 06:16 PM
|
| |
Thanks for your advice dandaniel, that is where I would have gone if LaHo hadn't helped me out. He was nice enough to send me a working crank from his old ME Super. As you can imagine, I'm "super" stoked as upon joining this community I have already been helped so much.
Of course I documented the whole thing. Got 4 rolls of expired film ready to blast. Thanks!
 |
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
09-22-2009, 05:22 PM
|
| |
Yeah, it's a bit hard to get stuff over here in NZ....but I'll try.
What about rewinding the film in a dark room? By dark room I mean a pitch black room, not a homemade hardout redlight thing.
If it wouldn’t kill the film, I think I could fumble the canister out of the back and rewind it with my hands. But would this work?
|
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
09-21-2009, 07:18 PM
|
| |
I was out and about shooting the other day when I noticed the rewind crank for rewinding the film had unscrewed itself off...most likely falling onto the streets.
I tried to rewind the film using pliers on the rewind rod, but this didn't work, and in frustration I opened the back killing my entire film. But I'm over that now! (kind of)
I've been searching to death trying to get a replacement crank - it just screws on right? I don't really want to send it to a repair shop for something I can do myself (which I believe I can?)
I live in New Zealand but will do anything to get my hands on one...or some other method to rewinding without a crank? I can't seem to find any info on parts or repair anywhere.
What’s the situation like for an old camera like this?
Thanks
 |
