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Forum: Ricoh GR
10-06-2012, 09:43 AM
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I luv my GXR with the Ultron 28mm f/2...
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
08-06-2010, 04:21 PM
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Forum: Post Your Photos!
09-14-2008, 05:38 PM
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A few IR images taken at a reservoir near my place.
Jpegs shot using an IR modified Pentax *ist DL2 with DA 14mm.
All taken hand held. Exif is intact. :)
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Forum: Photographic Technique
04-15-2009, 06:34 PM
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One can use just about any IR filter you can get your hand on. The most common just happens to be the Hoya R72. Whether you use a generic made in China, brandless or a branded one like Cokin, Tiffen, B+W or Heliopan, they will all vary a little in terms of spectral response (i.e. you get different colours).
If one selects an IR filter with a progressively higher cutoff wavelength (nm), it will produce images with less colour information, so you will get almost black or white images. Not only that, to get a decent exposure, the camera's exposure will have to be increased for much longer the stronger the IR filter used.
Shooting IR with a normal unmodified DSLR is a 2 step process:
A) Capturing the image
1) With the IR filter over the lens, set the camera's custom manual white balance. To do this go to the Fn menu and navigate to the WB settng.
2) Aim the camera at a patch or green grass or foliage in bright sunlight and ensure that it fills the viewfinder and there is sufficient exposure to get a reading.
Why green leaves or grass? Because leaves reflect a lot of IR light, that's why they appear lighter.
How bright is bright? If you are using a 720nm filter or weaker, you can just make out the scene in the viewfinder if there is bright sunlight lighting the scene.
Using Manual mode is the best mode as one would have to dial in more exposure compensation if using any of the Auto modes. Use the camera's histogram to assess if you have a decent exposure. At this stage, whether the images are blurry or not is immaterial as you want to lock in a usable WB reading. If you get a NG, repeat until the camera can set the custom WB. A good exposure should give a sepia like image, not red.
3) Once you have the WB set, you can proceed to shoot. Remove the IR filter in front of the lens, compose the scene in the viewfinder, put on the filter and shoot. Experiment with exposure settings (ISO, shutter speed and aperture) until you get a decent exposure. Use that histogram!
A few pointers to note:
Focus shift
If you use the viewfinder to focus or rely on the camera's AF to lock focus, your images may not appear pin sharp. This is because you're relying on the visible spectrum to set focus whereas the optimum point of focus for the IR wavelength is different. This problem is more pronounced if a stronger IR filter is used. Solution is to stop down to a smaller aperture and let DOF handle the slight focus shift.
Long exposure times
The IR filter will reduce light transmission to the camera's sensor. Exposure times will most often fall within the handshake threshold (1/20 sec to a few seconds) so use a tripod or prop the camera to something secure to get sharp pictures.
Noisy images
There is a temptation to up the camera's ISO to shoot with higher shutter speeds. Don't do it. The camera's sensor is recording with mostly the red channel and less with the blue and green. So increasing the ISO will exercebate camera noise and is difficult to correct later.
Lens use
I found it much quicker to use an AF lens. Using old manual lenses are too fiddly, especially where focusing is concerned. But whether a manual or AF is used, be aware that some lenses are prone to hot spotting (a noticeably brighter overall spot in the middle of the image). Stopping down will show up the hot spotting even more. Solution is to test and use a lens that doesn't exhibit hot spots (eg. DA 18-55mm, DA 14mm). Since IR landscapes are pretty common, based on actual testing the DA 12-24mm, DA 16-45mm and Sigma 10-20mm all show varying degree of hot spots.
B) Post Processing
1) Open the image in Photoshop or a program the can do a channel swop.
2 Open Levels or Curves and either use the Auto Levels button to stretch the histogram or set the white point at the brightest part of the image.
3) Under Channel Mixer, adjust the Red output channel, move sliders to 0%, blue to 100%; adjust the Blue output channel to 0%, red to 100%; go to the Green output channel and adjust red to 50% and blue to 50%.
This can be made into an action to save time.
4) You already have your basic IR image. Any tints can be tweaked in Hue/Saturation. You can further manipulate the image further.
Give it a try...
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
06-07-2009, 05:57 PM
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Well I have both the Kenko Uniplus Tube 25 and the Pentax Auto Extension Tube K and both are easy to use as they have the coupling to allow automatic diaphragm operation and open aperture metering.
It saves time as you don't have to stop down the aperture before shooting. The Pentax tubes come in 12mm, 19mm and 26mm.
The Pentax tubes are a little hard to find but you may be able to find one on eBay from time to time but obviously prices have shot up considerably.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
01-22-2011, 11:27 AM
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My buddy Frank testing out a brand new Sigma 500mm f/4.5 HSM belonging to another Pentax user today.
Focusing is definitely fast and quiet. Picture quality is phenomenal. What an awesome lens!!!
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Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories
01-04-2010, 09:07 PM
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Good summary.
I would recommend you try the Minolta Autometer or Flashmeters because they are extremely accurate, robust and easy to use.
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
11-15-2009, 07:45 AM
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A quick workaround is to use use one of the keys from an old laptop's keyboard and trim to fit.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
09-21-2011, 10:43 PM
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Not true, you just gotta know what to look for.
You can always consider the Mitakon 85mm f/2 a double Gauss design that is supposed to be based on the Nikkor 85mm f/2.
How the lens looks like:
 
Sample image (K-5 with Mitakon 85mm f/2)
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Forum: Lens Sample Photo Archive
11-24-2011, 06:31 AM
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Forum: Lens Clubs
04-25-2010, 05:27 PM
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A frangipani taken recently.
K-7 FA 135mm
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
03-16-2012, 04:05 PM
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
07-30-2010, 03:19 PM
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Have to say your explanation about the Clamp Screw is somewhat incorrect as the intention is not to adjust the feel of the focusing ring.
Owned the FA 100mm Macro & FA 50mm Macro and the DFA 100mm Macro and DFA 50mm Macro lenses, so allow me to elaborate.
Focus Range Limiter
On the FA & F 100mm f/2.8 Macro lenses, there is a circular switch to focus range limiter switch. On the F version, it has 2 positions (Full/Limit). On the FA version, it has 3 positions (Full/Limit/MF). Full = Full AF throughout from minimum focusing distance to infinity, Manual (MF) = AF is disengaged, full manual focus from minimum focusing distance to infinity,
As the name suggests, the limiter controls the focusing ranges to adjust AF quicker. When the focusing ring is first set at infinity and the switch set to Limit, the AF is set to long distance range (approx 0.6m ~ infinity). If the focus ring is first set to the minimum distance and the switch set to Limit, the AF is set to short distance range (0.3m 1x ~ 0.57m 1/4x magnification). Basically the lens is set up so that will not hunt throughout the entire focusing range. The focus range limiter is not as fast to use and superceded by Quick Shift on the DFA/DA lenses.
Clamp Screw
On the FA 50mm f/2.8 Macro & FA 100mm f/2.8 Macro it is a circular knob. On the DFA 50mm f/2.8 Macro & DFA 100mm f/2.8 Macro, it is a sliding switch. When engaged to the On position, it acts as a friction knob to tighten the focusing ring on the FA lenses, but for the DFA lenses it acts as a lock. Used for copying work on a copy stand or when it is pointing down where the weight of the lens might shift the focus ring. Can also be used to lock to a certain magnification. When shooting in AF mode, the clamp switch should be set to the Off position or it will slow down the AF focusing speed.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
10-18-2010, 05:35 PM
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Guys, I think all of you reading this lens shootout should give Frank his due credit by clicking on the Reputation icon on the bottom left of his avatar. I know Frank personally for a number of years now and he is definitely highly respected for the depth of his knowledge on things relating to Pentax.
Very personable and objective, you'll get no mumbo-jumbo, airy fairy theoretical bullshit from him, and having owned just about every recent Pentax lens I can think off, whatever he says is backed by plenty of experience. It is largely through his efforts that he has steadily grown the Singapore Pentax community through his tireless Pentax monthly outings and his personal interaction to help newbies and experienced shooters alike to discover what makes Pentax unique. I can personally attest to so many who have opted to make Pentax their choice due to him personally.
A BIG kudos to you, Frank for your tireless efforts.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
03-02-2010, 07:38 PM
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I think you can do all of us on Pentaxforums a big favor by posting some actual photos to back up your assertion.
After all the Pentax USA President has posted his test photos and conclusions. Talk is cheap. If you want to claim otherwise, then let's have the proof. Seriously.
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Forum: Photographic Technique
06-30-2008, 08:08 PM
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Some acronyms:
AD - Actual day photographer(wedding)
AFAIK - As far as I know
BBB – Buy! Buy! Buy!
BG - Background
BNP - Buy Now Price
BRB - Be Right Back
BTW - By The Way
CAM - Camera
CD - Compact disc
CF - Compact Flash (card)
CMI - cannot make it
CS - Adobe Creative Suite
Ctrl - Control
DOA - Dead on Arrival, equipment or lens faulty when delivered.
ETA - Estimated Time of Arrival
FYI - For your information
HD - Hard Disk a.k.a HDD for Hard Disk Drive
IMHO - In my humble opinion
IMO - In my opinion
IIRC - If I remember correctly
IOW - in other words
IRL - in real life
JK - Just Kidding
KIV - Keep in view
LBA - Lens Buying Addiction
LOL - laughing out loud
MO - Mass order
MUA - Make Up Artist
MWTB - may want to buy
MWTS - may want to sell
MWTT - may want to trade
NPNT - No photo no talk
OMG - Oh My God
ONO - Or Nearest Offer
OT - Out of Topic
PA - Photographer's assistant
PITA - Pain in the As*
PLBV - Problem lies behind viewfinder
RTFM - Read the **cking Manual or Read the FREE Manual
RP - Reserve Price
ROFL - Rolling on the floor laughing
RTFLMAO - Rolling on The Floor Laughing My Ass Off
SD - Secure Digital (card)
SDHC - SD High Capacity
TBA - To Be Announced
TBC - TO be Confirmed
TFCD - Time For CD ... layman terms, we take images of you... you get a CD in return
TIA – Thanks in advance
TS - Thread starter
WTB - Want to buy
WTR - Want to Rent
WTS - Want To Sell
WTT - Want To Trade
YMMV - Your Mileage May Vary
Photography-related terms:
AE - Auto Exposure
AEL - Auto Exposure Lock
AF - Auto Focus
APAD - A Photo A Day
AS - Anti-Shake (Konica Minolta term)
Av - Aperture Priority
AWB - Auto White Balance
AWL - Advanced Wireless Lighting (Nikon term)
CA - Chromatic Abberrations
CCD - Charged Coupled Device (Sensor)
CLS - Creative Lighting System (Nikon term)
CMOS - Complementary Metal Oxide Semiconductor (Sensor)
CPL - Circular Polariser (Filter)
DOF - Depth of Field
DRO - Dynamic Range Optimizer (Sony term)
DSLR - Digital Single Lens Reflex (camera)
EV - Exposure
FE - Fish-eye (lens)
FEL - Flash Exposure Lock (Canon term)
FF - Full Frame (Camera)
HDR - High Dynamic Range
HSM - Hyper Sonic Motor (Sigma)
IF - Internal Focusing
IQ - Image Quality
IS - Image Stabilizer (Canon)
LF - Large Format
LR - Adobe LightRoom
LV - Live View
MF - Medium Format OR Manual Focus
ND - Neutral Density (Filters)
OIS - Optical Image Stabilizer (Panasonic term)
OOF - Out of Focus
OP - Original post
OS - Optical Stabiliser (Sigma) OR Operating System (Computer term)
PP - Post Process
PS - Photoshop
RF - Rangefinder (camera)
SLR - Single Lens Reflex (camera)
SR - Shake Reduction (Pentax term)
SSS - Super Steady Shot (Sony term)
SSWF - Supersonic Wave Filter (Olympus term)
SWD - Supersonic Wave Drive (Olympus term)
SWM - Silent Wave Motor (Nikon Term)
Sync - Synchro
TFCD - Time For CD
TFP - Time For Prints
TTL – Through the lens (A mode for flash)
Tv - Shutter Priority (Canon) (S for Nikon)
USM - Ultrasonic Motor (Canon term), Unsharp Mask (Photoshop)
UWA - Ultra Wide Angle
VR - Vibration Reduction (Nikon term)
WA - Wide Angle
WB - White Balance
File types / Images terms:
BMP - BIT MAP
DNG - Adobe Digital Negative
GIF - Graphics Interchange Format
JPEG/JPG - Joint Photographic Experts Group
NEF - Nikon Electronic Format (Nikon's RAW format)
ORF - Olympus RAW format
PEF - Pentax RAW format
PNG - Portable Network Graphics
PSD - Photoshop file
TIFF - Tagged Image File Format
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Forum: Site Suggestions and Help
06-18-2012, 11:35 PM
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
04-22-2013, 07:40 AM
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A typical Pentax Singapore monthly user outing (April 2013)
In the picture are two award winning landscape photographers.
Definitely a fun and talented bunch of shooters.
Photo courtesy of Frank.
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
12-25-2012, 05:52 PM
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IMGP1077 copy by dlbj23, on Flickr
K-5IIs with DA 55-300mm
IMGP0906 copy by dlbj23, on Flickr
K-5IIs with DA* 300mm
I've shot hundreds of frames of fur and feathers and the supposed prevalence of moire with the K-5IIs is overly hyped. The above uncropped photos have merely been resized with no sharpening done. The K-5IIs is just so much better than the K-5 in so many ways.
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
01-02-2013, 03:28 PM
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Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
12-30-2012, 08:36 PM
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It will be a bonus if ever Sigma offers the 35mm f/1.4 HSM in Pentax mount. How many Pentax users are prepared to spend on fast glass? Many will boldly proclaim that they will plonk money if it comes out. But let's have a reality check rather than talk about wishful thinking. For example, count the number of FA 31mm f/1.8 owners and it is pretty clear it still remains a small proportion of Pentax users. How many are even prepared to spend on the Sigma 30mm f/1.4? A fast lens that has very high center sharpness but APS-C only. Not many. Or perhaps the DA* 55mm f/1.4 or the Sigma 85mm f/1.4 HSM... again not many. For the most part many Pentax users want good stuff but many are financially challenged... Even if Pentax does roll out a slew of new fast lenses, I'll bet a large proportion just won't be buying.
I'd buy a 135mm f/2 or faster if it was available. But that's not likely to happen because the number of Pentax users who can afford it is miniscule. No market, no lens...
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
12-27-2012, 08:45 AM
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Don't waste your time with the discontinued K-5. Get the K-5II or better still the K-5IIs. People who think the new II/IIs isn't much of an upgrade from the K-5 are sadly mistaken. I'd say even the K-30 is better than the K-5, which in turn is quite a bit better than the K-7. Speaking as someone who has owned the K-7, the K-5 and now the K-5IIs.
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
12-23-2012, 07:54 AM
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Old croc with sharp teeth. (just resized, no post processing done straight from the camera)
K-5IIs with DA* 300mm f/4
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
12-10-2012, 06:49 PM
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AF accuracy on my K-5 progressively got worse that Pentax Japan had my SR module completely replaced. Even then, the AF while much improved was never as good as the new K-30. Within 10 minutes of handling and testing the K-30, it was painfully clear that the 2 years tech gap between the models, Pentax has improved as far as AF was concerned particularly shooting indoors and in close focusing situations. AF with the K-5IIs is much improved over the K-5, not just in low light where it is a non contest. The exposure accuracy seems to be a little better too with the K-5IIs and then there's the sharpness of the images from the sensor... unbeatable. Buying an out of production model to save a bit of money when one can get an improved model not too much more is false economy in my book. The K-5 was good, but that was two years ago and technology has moved on. Having good lenses has always been important, but with digital photography the performance of the sensor and electronics is even more so.
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Forum: Lens Clubs
09-06-2010, 04:11 AM
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K-7, A 200mm f/4
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