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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
10-25-2023, 03:09 PM
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For further clarification refer to edit on my first post.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
10-23-2023, 01:09 PM
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Yes. From what I can tell it appears that the Honeywell branded SP1000 was the first camera Pentax mass assembled in the in the Hong Kong plant. To date I have not seen an ASAHI branded SP1000 assembled in Hong Kong.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
10-22-2023, 04:55 PM
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From what I can tell all of the Pentax branded SP1000 were manufactured in Japan (embossed on rear top plate). However, all the Honeywell branded versions I have seen were manufactured in Hong Kong. To date I have never seen a Japan branded Honeywell SP1000.
Edit:
After a much deeper dig on Honeywell branded SP1000 it is possible you may find some samples embossed Asahi Opt Co., Japan on the top plate. I have found a few samples which appear to have a Hong Kong sticker placed over the Japan engraving on the top plate. If this sticker has been removed in the past it would present as a Japan origin body. On all the samples I have seen this sticker is very carefully aligned in exactly the same place which would suggest that it is covering the Japan engraving underneath. This is unlike the stickers which were used on the K1000 bodies which were seemingly placed in rather random fashion when it comes to placement & alignment.
As Honeywell was a US brand this is something that somebody from the US might want to take a deep look into as you would have many more samples to study. The sticker over the Japan engraving was quite possibly only for a short period (possibly at the start of HK assembly). A record of serial number range should help clarify when this occurred.
Some K1000 assembly was performed in HK from the start of Series I with many samples available to verify. Although very similar in features to the K1000 the SP1000 chassis casting is different to the K1000 (different tooling required) which equates to a separate physical identity & with the only similarity being the features list.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
10-22-2023, 02:11 PM
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Your mother has a good memory. Your body / serial number & date all correlates with your mother's memory. Your camera is an obvious series III body from your images and amongst the lowest serial numbers I have seen for a series III body.
The nearest serial numbers I have with confirmed dates are:
684XXXX - December 1981 - series II body.
721XXXX - February 1983 - series III body.
The lowest series III s/n I have been able to verify is 671XXXX.
The 6XXXXXX serial number prefix appears to be predominantly used for series II bodies. However, the 6XXXXXX prefix was also used for early series III & widely used in series V bodies [China].
Series II & series III bodies were produced in Both Japan & Hong Kong with Hong Kong being the predominant production location for Series III bodies.
There appears to be no logic as to how the serial number 'blocks' were distributed through the various production periods.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
02-02-2023, 03:28 PM
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Japan assembled & Hong Kong assembled bodies of the same manufacturing period are 100% identical in components used. The key point here being 'the same manufacturing period'. Componentry materials did change over the full production period. However, there was never any difference in componentry materials of the same production period between either the Japan or Hong Kong assembled bodies. The most obvious change that people tend to notice & quite often quote as a difference in quality or country of origin in internet posts was the change to the nylon gears used for the shutter mechanism. This is probably because it is the first obvious difference noted when the bottom plate is removed. This change occurred late in series I bodies both in the Japan & Hong Kong origin bodies all around the same serial number range. This change has absolutely no effect on quality or life expectancy of the shutter mechanism. This gear is simply a worm gear driven mechanism used to set the tension of the shutter curtain spring. Once set it is then locked into place & never has to move again. The only exception is during a camera service. This gear is never subject to any wear & tear in everyday use. The main gains in weight reduction over the production period for series I -> series IV bodies was a change in the alloy used for the bulkiest part of the camera - the chassis. The change to plastic componentry during series I -> IV production was very minimal. Even in series V bodies which seen a big swing to plastic, the use of plastic was mainly on external parts & not within the main camera mechanism.
The AOCo logo was dropped from the pentaprism with the release of series IV bodies ( circa. 1988 - 89) which still have chrome plated brass top & bottom plates. Series IV bodies were all of Hong Kong origin. China production started with series V which seen the change to plastic top & bottom plates. The plastic plates are the main distinguishing feature of a series V body & not the absence of the AOCo logo as the plastic plates are very easy to spot in images & is specific to the start of series V.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
01-21-2023, 09:06 PM
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There is much confusion surrounding identifying & dating of the Japan & Hong Kong versions of the K1000.
Although this is a very old thread which has been revived here are a few general notes to clear up a few misconceptions mentioned earlier in this thread about the K1000 which can be verified from the physical study of hundreds of K1000 bodies.
* K1000 bodies have never been assembled in Tiawan. This possibly comes from later M50/2 lenses used on the K1000 bodies ( & others) were of Tiawan origin which first appeared on series II K1000 bodies.
* K1000 bodies were produced in both Japan & Hong Kong from the very first production. Only the late K1000 series V (plastic top & bottom plates) bodies were produced in China along with some HK production.
* The presence of the bump or the ASAHI text or the AOCo logo alone does not constitute a K1000 body as being Japanese origin.
* The AOCo logo & the ASAHI text were dropped late in series III production when assembly was primarily moved to HK.
* If you compare two K1000 bodies from the same production period in series I through to series III, both the Jap & HK assembled bodies are 100% identical in construction & internal componentry.
* There is no reason for there to be a difference in the quality of the bodies assembled in either of the assembly locations. No doubt Pentax were simply taking advantage of cheaper labour costs.
* Series I - Japan & HK but predominantly Japan.
Series I bodies most easily identified from BOTH the bump on top & 750**** -> 79***** serial number range.
HK assembled series I bodies were 'assembly only' in HK. These bodies used Japan manufactured components.
If my memory is correct without looking back through notes, nylon gears for the shutter curtain tension adjustment first appeared late in Series I body in both the Jap & HK assembled bodies.
Serial numbers were located on the top plate but moved to bottom plate during transition period between series I & series II bodies.
Do not confuse with Series III bodies which also used the same serial number prefix used within this range (7******) but is located on bottom plate.
Origin can be confirmed by -- ' ASAHI OPT. CO., JAPAN engraved on back of top plate (RHS). Common for early series I
- ' JAPAN ' engraved on bottom plate. ' ASAHI OPT. CO. ' engraved on the back of top plate (RHS) Not very common but a number of samples have been verified.
- ' BODY ASSEMBLED IN HONG KONG ' engraved on bottom plate. ' ASAHI OPT. CO. ' engraved on the back of top plate (RHS), Not very common but a number of samples have been verified.
- ' BODY ASSEMBLED IN HONG KONG ' sticker on bottom. ' ASAHI OPT. CO. ' engraved on the back of top plate (RHS). Common for late series I bodies
- 'JAPAN' sticker on base plate (late in series). ' ASAHI OPT. CO. ' engraved on the back of top plate (RHS). Common for late series I bodies.
- If there is no engraved origin & sticker has been lost there is no way to determine origin either externally or internally. However, if the sticker has been removed but residue remains origin can be reasonably assumed by the size of the remaining residue. Short 'JAPAN' or much longer 'ASSEMBLED IN HONG KONG'.
* Series II - Japan & HK but HK starts to dominate
Identified from serial number on bottom plate & 600**** -> 699**** serial number range.
Do not confuse with Series V bodies (plastic) which also used some serial numbers with the same prefix (6******).
HK assembled series II bodies were assembly only in HK. These used Japan manufactured components.
Origin can be confirmed by -- 'Japan' sticker on bottom plate.
- 'ASSEMBLED IN Hong Kong' sticker on bottom plate.
- If there is no engraved origin & sticker has been lost there is no way to determine origin either externally or internally. However, if the sticker has been removed but residue remains origin can be reasonably assumed by the size of the remaining residue. Short 'JAPAN' or much longer 'ASSEMBLED IN HONG KONG'.
* Series III - Japan & HK but HK is now the main assembly location
Origin can be confirmed by -- Japan sticker on bottom plate.
- Hong Kong sticker on bottom plate.
- If sticker has been lost there is no way to determine origin either externally or internally. However, if the sticker has been removed but residue remains origin can be reasonably assumed by the size of the remaining residue. Short 'JAPAN' or much longer 'ASSEMBLED IN HONG KONG'.
* Series IV - HK assembly only. No AOCo logo on top prism.- Metal top & bottom plates but no AOCo logo
* Series V - HK & China production (plastic top & botttom plates)
IF you have a K1000 SE it was manufactured in HK & would have been identified by a sticker on the base (Series I -> Series IV) as no SE's have been verified as manufactured in Japan.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
06-04-2020, 02:32 PM
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It is a standard K1000 with a split prism screen & not a SE.
Obvious clues from images
Black leatherette without engraved SE. All SE's with STANDARD black leatherette were engraved with SE on the top plate.
Made in Japan - No SE's were made in Japan as all SE's were HK origin. I have had a few ppl claim to have had Japan origin SE's but have never been able to verify one as original as all bodies showed signs on being tampered with.
No obvious evidence of any 'parts swap' .Serial number is consistent with body & suggest production date of approx. April -> December 1980.
However, with all that being said, what you have is for all practical purposes a 'SE' as the split prism focus screen & SE engraving was the only difference at that time.
As a side note:- Although very approximate due to limited sampling data I have the original M50/2 lens sold with this body would have MOST LIKELY had a 43XXXX prefix.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
02-20-2020, 03:53 PM
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Although related to the Hong Kong / Japan origin original subject This is getting a little of topic from the original thread, but
Study the SP1000 & where does its chassis/ / shutter mechanism / light meter casting originate from? Although I have not looked at the SP1000 light meter circuit in many years I am very confident in saying that it is the same as the SPF as the SP1000 was released after the SPF . I went to the SP1000 as I was replying to a post from LesDMess & Chris,s post. The SP1000 is the nearest screw mount predecessor of similar specifications to the K1000.To be technically correct the K1000 is immediately based on the KM. Trace back the chassis casting / shutter mechanism / light meter on the KM & where does that originate from? -> -> -> -> Spotmatic. There is only a few times in the Pentax timeline (mechanical mechanism era ) where significant changes were made from the previous camera manufacturing process. Most bodies were simply minor improvements / changes from the previous model.
I come across the SP1000 - Honeywell/ Hong Kong - Asahi/Japan connection many years ago in my very early years of completing my collection & studying the K1000 time line. I eventually give up on finding HK assembled version of the Asahi branded SP1000 after a couple of years. I just did another Ebay search for Honeywell SP1000's & there currently is 1 listed that is Japan origin. The first Honneywell I have seen with Japan origin. It has been a bit of a traveller. I would guess Honeywell brand (US origin), Stickers inside camera suggest Italy?, currently being sold in the UK.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
02-19-2020, 12:59 PM
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AFAIK all the Honeywell SP1000's were of HK origin. However I have not come across a HK version outside the US. The SP1000 was the forefather of the K1000. Small quantities of the K1000 were assembled on the HK production line right from Series I.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
02-14-2020, 02:00 PM
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The version you have is called a bitsa. They are very prevalent nowadays.
It is a series IV top plate. (released 1989)
With a series II bottom plate. (Approx 1980 from serial number)
Judging from the condition of the eye viewer & general black areas of body (lack of wear marks) I would guess it is most likely a series IV body which has had the bottom plate replaced for some reason. If it is a series IV check the viewfinder as this is the version where the silver delamination on the prism started to become prevalent.
It is definitely NOT a transition version. Nothing at all about the body ties in to suggest that. Your 2 main components are 2 clear version apart.
Unfortunately nothing special but it looks like a very good user body. My advise is :- Enjoy using it!
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
06-25-2019, 02:07 PM
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The 78XXXXX prefix was used at two different periods of production. It was first used during the series I & series I / II transition period on a number of bodies. The 783XXXX prefix featured predominantly in this transition period.
However the 78XXXXX prefix in general was most predominantly used for the series III bodies.
With both of these periods the manufacturing location has nothing to do with the confirming the manufacturing period. K1000's were assembled in both Japan & Hong Kong during both of these periods.
There would be no duplicate serial numbers used in both production periods. There is random blocks of serial numbers with the 78XXXXX prefix in both periods.
Nearest confirmed purchase dates I have
series I -> series II transition period - 786XXXX - Confirmed purchase date of Dec 1978
Series III body - 7779XXX - Confirmed purchase date of Dec 1987
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
07-29-2018, 02:27 PM
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The Tak 500/4.5 is a very capable lens but like all super telephoto's technique & atmospheric conditions play a big part in the results. The secret is in getting to know how the lens performs & to work within its limitations. Apart from carrying it around, CA is the biggest drawback with the Tak 500/4.5 & the moon is one of those very contrasty subjects to really expose the CA problem.
However, with good atmosphere & a little processing the Tak500 can produce good results. This is from Takumar 500/4.5, single raw shot using K200D.There is still CA visible in the image but I did not concern myself too much with removing it totally as it does not distract from the image. There is enough detail in the 'overall image' that you are not drawn to the CA.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
06-02-2018, 03:53 PM
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82XXXXXX prefix was used at the end of the Series III K1000's. From confirmed dates I have it would be Circa. 1988.
As your serial number is around a transitional period, your body could be either Series III or IV. However from your serial # it will most likely be one of the last of the Series III bodies.
If it is a series III body it will have the AOCo logo on the front top section of the prism. I have only seen a few series III bodies in this high serial # range with 829XXXXX being the highest.
If it is a series IV body (unlikely from serial #) it will have no AOCo logo on front top section of prism. Lowest confirmed Series IV serials appear to start from 831XXXXX & is the last of the metal bodied K1000's.
Transitional period serials for Series III / IV appears to fall in the range 831XXXX -> 843XXXX. Bodies in this range are primarily series IV bodies but I have found a small percentage of Series III bodies in this number range.
Earliest confirmed date for Series IV body (#84XXXXX) I have found is Dec 1989.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
05-07-2018, 02:27 PM
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I would be interested in checking a few more details of the camera you have. I have sent you a PM.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
05-05-2018, 06:17 PM
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From op's description the second SE is definitely a later China version of SE.
The 'After market upgrade' is yet another K1000 myth.
- SE sticker shown in Pentax marketing material.
- Sticker versions were sold worldwide. If retailer/camera wholesaler upgrade sales with sticker would be limited to one area & not widespread.
- If 'dealer or aftermarket upgrade' why were the sticker versions released before the engraved version? Did Pentax decide that the 'dealer' was on a good thing & decide to follow them?
While we're on myths, as far as I am aware ALL brass/chrome K1000 SE's (series I -> IV) were assembled in Hong Kong. I have never seen or been able to confirm a original K1000SE for Japan. I have seen a few where people have tried to fake it but if you know what to look for there is always evidence of it being a Frankenstein body. The inclusion of the 'bump' on top plate is not a indication of a Japan assembled body as many people believe. Both Hong Kong & Japan bodies from series I used the bump.
Hi Moe,
That's a good start to the variations but you have a few more years to cover yet. You appear to be collecting them in chronological order.
From what I can tell the 'standard' K1000SE focusing screen was split prism + micro prism + collar up to somewhere during the series IV bodies. Somewhere during series IV production Pentax dropped the collar to become the split prism + micro prism.
I have broken them down into series groups (or production runs as it is sometimes referred ) but have continued your series of numbering the variations during the full K1000 production period.
Series I
1. Black Diamond, AOCO logo, bump & s/n on top plate. SE sticker on front. ( 775XXXX -> 780XXXX confirmed range)
2. Brown leatherette, bump & s/n on top plate, SE sticker on front. (779XXXX -> 781XXXX confirmed range)
Series I transition.
I have verified a number of K1000 bodies in this category. 793#### highest s/n I have confirmed in this range in SE variants, 795##### in standard K1000 variants. S/N's from the series I range were used but, located on bottom plate of series II bodies.
3. Brown leatherette, AOCO logo, no bump on top & s/n from Series I range used on bot plate, SE sticker on front.
Series II
Engraved SE logo & black leatherette become the standard for series II bodies. A number of the early series II bodies used up the remaining brown leatherette from late series I production.
Once again there is a transition period between series II & series III where s/n ranges from both series were used on either bodies (686XXXX -> 702XXXX).
4. Brown leatherette, AOCO logo, no bump on top & s/n on bot plate, SE engraved on front, S/N range 686XXXX - 702XXXXX
5. Black standard K1000 leatherette, s/n on bot plate. All black series II engraved SE bodies use series II s/n range 600XXXXX ->
Series III
6. Black standard K1000 leatherette, AOCO logo, s/n on bot plate. All black series III SE bodies I have confirmed use series III s/n range 700XXXXX -> 83XXXXX with exceptions for blocks of numbers which were used in transition period from series II (68XXXXX - 702XXXX)
Series IV
- going from s/n's this is the smallest production run of all series
7. Black standard K1000 leatherette, no AOCO logo, s/n on bot plate. All series IV SE bodies I have confirmed use series IV s/n range 83XXXXXX -> 84XXXXXX
Series V
Production moved to china. Plastic top/bot plates.
Although the plastic top/bot plates did make a considerable difference to the weight of later bodies the biggest weight difference also come from the change in alloy used for the chassis. This change in alloy started to become evident during the series III bodies.
8. Black standard K1000 leatherette, no AOCO logo, s/n on bot plate, plastic ASA/shutter speed dial, chrome/black metal rewind knob on chrome plastic shaft. All series V SE bodies I have confirmed use series V s/n range 500XXXX ->
Series VI
9. Black standard K1000 leatherette, no AOCO logo, s/n on bot plate, plastic ASA/shutter speed dial, all black metal rewind knob on black plastic shaft. All series VI SE bodies I have confirmed use series VI s/n range 600XXXX ->
Once production moved to China bodies I have not extensively studied serial number ranges, so there may be numbers outside the ranges I have listed for these series. The 600XXXX serial number range on Chinese bodies in particular would be interesting to study closely as the 600XXXXX prefix was used in series II. From my extensive study of series II body s/n's I have not been able to pick out any large blocks of numbers missing from series, only relatively small blocks at random throughout the series. Most likely only the missing blocks of serial numbers from the series II range were used in the series VI bodies but it is a very intriguing question as to if Pentax may have reused some of the serial numbers from series II.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
01-21-2018, 03:21 PM
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No adapter off the shelf - but you do have options.
Option 1 - Genuine Pentax
Get the original Bellows Takumar 100 which was designed to be used with the bellows. The Bellows 100 will even focus right through to infinity on the bellows.
Option 2 - genuine Pentax components
Purchase a set of Auto Bellows K / Auto Bellows M. This gives you much versatility. The camera mounts & front lens standards can be interchanged with each other. This will give you M42 camera - K lens or K camera with M42 lens. It also gives you the possibility with a bit more fiddling with components to make a set of 'super bellows' by using the 2 bellows joined end on end without any destructive modification. Just be wary of the late auto Bellows A as they used a fractionally smaller focus rail which is not compatible.
Option 3 - Non Pentax components.
Modify the mount on a extension tube. The easiest is to start with a K mount tube & replace the camera side mount with M42. Many of the off brand / after market extension tubes have the mounts fixed by screws. If you are lucky enough to find a manufacturer that produces both M42 & K Mount variants it is just a simple matter of doing a mount change with a few screws. Many of the cheap Chinese tubes available now work well for this. I have used Soligor tubes for my adapters.
Option 4 - Genuine Pentax components
Pentax had a adapter for the ring flash to allow it to be used on reverse mounted lenses called Reverse Ring Light adapter K. It can be used (reversed to the way it was designed) as a base to mount a M42 adapter to the other side. However this is not really a option due to the scarcity of them nowadays.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
12-05-2017, 01:47 PM
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Looking at the images camera finish has been manipulated. It is very easy quick process to remove the chrome plating & just leave the original nickel finish.
Indications of camera being stripped that I see are :
- Paint in engravings being removed. Looking at patches remaining is typical pattern after stripping.
- Rear door latch not being stripped
- Screws not being stripped. Screws were not usually nickel plated under the chrome. From the factory Pentax would have matched the look of screws to the body & not made them a 'feature".
- Knobs, rewind lever, tripod socket not being stripped. From the factory Pentax would have kept a consistent look.
- Nickel plating is much softer than chrome & wears very quickly. There are no signs of normal wear on the nickel plating at edges/corners.
- Obvious corrosion around lens mount. Corrosion appears to be 'too clean' for that amount of corrosion. Stripping would have also partially removed some corrosion.
- Paint has been refinished. Zoom in on film door left side bottom & top dented but no marks on paintwork. No wear/paint chips on strap lugs which is common.
It would be a nice looking showpiece camera as nickel has a 'soft warm glow' compared to chrome, but not factory original.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
07-26-2017, 02:26 PM
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That's a new one. I have not seen that style of adapter with the inner flange for stop down pin.
Looking at the design of the Kipon adapter it looks like it could be the cause of the problem as the aperture lever would be rubbing against the inner flange. This would result in all the symptoms boydmain is seeing from his trouble shooting.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
07-25-2017, 03:55 PM
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YES they do work well on all K mount bodies
I have never come across a problem with the aperture pin butting up against anything in any Pentax K mount camera body when using a M42 adapter so I don't think that is anything to do with your problem.
Lets start with the basics of using a M42 adapter to cover all bases.
Lens:
Do not fit adapter to the lens.
On any lens that has the Auto/Manual switch for aperture it must be set to the Manual setting. Look through lens & confirm aperture opens/closes when you move aperture ring. If aperture is opening/closing, that's all there is for setting the lens & it is ready for use with M42 adapter.
M42 adapter:
Being a aftermarket adapter should not cause any problems as the distance lens is set back into camera body is determined by the base (flange) of the M42 mount & not the adapter. The main problem with aftermarket adapters is usually the screw to attach the locking spring being too long causing problems when removing the adapter or just generally poor fit of the K mount bayonet. Neither of these issues will cause the problems you are having.
The correct way to use the adapter (either genuine Pentax or Chinese aftermarket flangeless) is to mount the adapter into the camera body first, turn & latch into place.
Now screw the lens into the camera/adapter combo. No need to go overboard with tightening lens onto camera. Just nip it up firm, try turning the focusing ring both directions & if lens does not try to unscrew from the mount that's all you need. DO NOT try to tighten lens to make aperture/focus distance scale line up at the top. It is common (especially on after market) for the scale to not line up correctly with top of camera body. It's just a minor inconsistency you learn to deal with as you get used to using it.
Now try turning the aperture ring while looking at the front of the lens & you should see it opening & closing.
You should be good to go shooting!
Some users unscrew/remove the lock spring from the adapter to overcome the adapter removal problem with aftermarket adapters, but I am not a fan of this idea as you are relying totally on friction to keep the lens attached to camera body. It is just as easy to fix the real problem (file down or replace screw) & use the adapter as it was originally designed to be used with 100% security of lens being attached. I have never had a problem with a aftermarket adapter being used as it was designed for once it has been repaired/fitted properly.
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Forum: Photographic Technique
05-31-2017, 02:52 PM
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Bellows are either late Pentax Auto Bellows M or early Pentax Auto Bellows A.
Adapter on back standard is early Pentax Extension tube #1 (no auto aperture lever)
Lens is a Pentax Bellows 100 F4
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
09-18-2016, 03:28 PM
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With the Bellows Unit K there is no mechanical linkage in mount to control aperture which eliminates a problem there.
My best guess would be that the bellows have had the lens mounting ring removed at some time & been incorrectly reinstalled. On the attached image the area adjacent to the yellow arrow is the area of mount that will effectively hold the aperture open on lens when mounting. Look for any irregularities in this area. My best guess without seeing image of your bellows lens mount would be that the spring steel mount washer (red arrow) which is behind the front mount plate has been reinstalled in the incorrect position bending the tab out into the path of the aperture lever on the lens.
Second option which is highly unlikely on all 3 lenses, but will mention to cover all bases. The lever on the lens mount which holds the lens aperture open may be bent out a fraction. This rides just inside the bellows front standard adjacent to the yellow arrow. It normally has minimal clearance from the front standard & as such would not require much of a bend to rub against it. The best way to check this would be to mount a lens on the bellows ( at minimum extension) while looking through the camera standard opening.
Third option which is once again unlikely but worth a mention. The aperture lever of lens rubbing against the actual bellows due to damage to bellows or a slightly bent aperture lever. This will rub on the actual bellows in area of blue arrow. Damage to the actual bellows in this area is highly unlikely as it is behind the front standard flange.
As there is nothing native to the design of Bellows Unit K which will cause the issues you are experiencing, so you are definitely looking for a irregularity from some sort of damage.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
04-08-2016, 02:27 PM
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That camera actually sold via auction a few weeks ago for $199.00 by the same seller. It has most likely been returned for some reason so I would be asking a few questions. It is possible the sale did not go through but the time frame of relisting suggests return.
If by chance a collector did give it a second thought for some reason, they would not be interested due to the poor quality paint job. It appears it has just been sprayed over the chrome finish which means it will scratch / chip very easily. Even the modern 2 pacs do not take over chrome all that well, so not really practical as a user camera either. If you look closely you can see where the paint is already peeling back from the edges in a few places. Although a bit rough on the edges, the white highlights look good due to it being a slightly off white making it look older and used rather than a fresh paint job.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
10-21-2015, 05:14 PM
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Lowest confirmed serial number in first series body for HK assembly I have is 7501113. You are correct about parts originating in Japan.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
10-20-2015, 03:10 PM
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If it was made HK/Japan has nothing to do with dating. Assembly of the K1000 in HK started within the first year of production.
Pentax were assembling in HK long before the K1000 was released.
Serial number location is only relevant to series I bodies.
K1000 serial number range 828XXXXX is from late half of 1988. It is a late series III body.
Series IV bodies started at around 84XXXXX. (later half of 1989).
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
07-01-2015, 09:14 PM
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Don't you hate it when you don't have something you thought you had and when you can't find something you know you have! Maybe a sign of too many toys.
Anyway here's the images of a m42 55/2.2. Looking at the rear mount you can see why it would have been interesting to see them side by side for comparison as they appear identical and there appears to be no room to scale down to M37. I have included a rule in the last image so hopefully you may be able to pick the differences having something to scale it to.
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