Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
02-22-2010, 03:02 AM
|
|
I'd be more worried about your eyes looking at the welds through the viewfinder. CCDs have color filter arrays that block most UV.
|
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
02-08-2010, 05:12 AM
|
|
If you're just getting started with photography and looking to progress, I'd recommend you get a fast, cheap prime like the 50mm f/1.4. By walking around to frame your shots rather than (lazily) zooming you'll think and learn more about perspective and composition.
OTOH, if you're just looking for the point-and-shoot experience, get a 16-50mm f/2.8 zoom and be done with it.
|
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
02-05-2010, 08:14 AM
|
|
It may be an ambient light issue. The green tint sounds like you're viewing under fluorescent lighting (which typically has a green spike).
View the print in daylight and watch the green tint disappear.
|
Forum: Photographic Technique
02-05-2010, 04:10 AM
|
|
Quote: Digital Photography Book 3 p.180
When it comes to shooting at night, this is the one time when the limited ultraviolet (UV) rays work against us (potentially giving us washed out images), and that's why many pros suggest removing your UV filter at night. That's just retarded. The reason you don't put a UV filter on a digital camera is because it does nothing except throw reflections into your lens.
|
Forum: Photographic Technique
02-04-2010, 07:10 PM
|
|
Shooting at night with the bright lights in frame is akin to shooting at day with the sun in frame. The bright (relative to ambient) point source will produce flares and washouts.
So do as you would if the sun were in frame, ie. close up the aperture (and adjust the shutter speed for correct exposure).
If you want the absolute best night shots, go out in a full moon and use a blue filter for the street lighting. You'll end up with a beautifully contrasty B&W shot and will be able to experiment with shallow FODs (wide apertures).
|
Forum: Photographic Technique
01-29-2010, 09:10 AM
|
|
I disagree. It's not like some studio shoot where "you can always get another one done".
A wedding shoot must be done with respect and critical perception.
|
Forum: Photographic Technique
01-29-2010, 03:10 AM
|
|
|
Forum: Photographic Technique
01-29-2010, 02:31 AM
|
|
So perhaps I was exaggerating on the price a little (I never do get the exchange rates right... :p )
That'd be it precisely. The OP's prime lens is 2 stops faster than the best zooms. Getting decent indoor portraits with a single flash is damned hard (there's a reason studios spend that much money on lighting equipment).
To compare, for a typical indoor scene, the zoom would require a shutter speed of 1/15-1/60 at ISO 400 and so would require a flash for proper exposure. By contrast, the same scene could be shot with the prime at 1/60-1/250 and so offer the option of not using the flash.
But I digress, the OP should talk to the B&G to be sure of the options. If it's really a choice between you and point-and-shoot friends and they understand your inexperience as a wedding photographer and still opt for you, face into it, remember the basics and keep your wits about you.
|
Forum: Photographic Technique
01-28-2010, 09:57 AM
|
|
KISS - get the basics right and you'll improve your chances of getting the killer shot. Perspective: shoot with a long lens unless you're trying some creative low, wide-angle shots.
Don't use a zoom unless you've got a $2000+ lens. Pick a good prime (the 50/1.4 is long enough with the K10D) and move to frame the shot. Lighting: try not to shoot at noon under sunny skies. The dynamic range of a digital camera is limited (especially compared to the human eye) so try to think about the shadows and highlights on the subjects' faces.
Ideally, shoot with the sun to the side and use a $20 reflector off eBay (and an assistant) to fill in shadows around the face. If using the flash, use it off-camera with a diffuser (get an assistant). Depth/Background: Don't let the background overwhelm the subjects. Make sure the background is darker and has less detail than the foreground.
Choose simple backgrounds (no strong vertical lines), use a wide aperture (and a ND filter if it's too bright), and use a diffuse flash and reflectors to lighten the foreground relative to the background.
PS. It's obvious but make absolutely sure you get the faces in focus otherwise you may have to throw away what might otherwise be an excellent picture. Keep people moving naturally, keep them smiling, and take lots of pictures!
HTH and good luck.
|