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Forum: Pentax Forums Giveaways
09-07-2016, 06:49 AM
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Great giveaway! The K-50 is an awesome camera :)
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Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
12-14-2014, 03:49 PM
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What focus mode are you in? AF.S? AF.C? What do you mean it kicks in? Does it hunt around without shutter half press?
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Forum: Pentax Forums Giveaways
12-13-2014, 03:31 PM
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Forum: Post Your Photos!
12-10-2014, 09:15 PM
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Interesting concept, but your POV is too low to effectively convey that.
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Forum: Post Your Photos!
12-10-2014, 07:49 PM
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Yes, yes, I am aware it was quite deliberate; I was not suggesting it was a careless mistake, just saying I thought it an odd choice for a compelling landscape.
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Forum: Post Your Photos!
12-10-2014, 07:45 PM
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While traveling in Israel, I stayed at the Dead Sea Ganim Isrotel. A dip was mandatory, but I also wanted to photograph the amazing colors the setting sun was casting on the clouds. As soon as I got to the beach I noticed the railings jutting out of the water (they were in the water about 5 meters from the shore). I got closer and noticed that it was a submerged ramp. No clue as to why it was underwater, but I decided it would make a great foreground element so I put the tripod in the water and managed to capture this image.
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Forum: Post Your Photos!
12-10-2014, 07:31 PM
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The Grand Canyon looks majestic! Good exposure despite what is obviously challenging light conditions. I have to admit though that I don't get the tilt in the horizon for a landscape image, it is quite distracting.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
06-08-2013, 10:38 PM
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LOL you certainly do jump around and aside from at the beginning there are not a whole lot of questions in there. Basically, the answer for most of your questions would be practice and perhaps read. There is no magical way to get good at photography and PP; no forum will be able to tell you in a post how to get to the next level. Sure they might give you tips to specific things, or give you critique on a photo you post, and that is a big help. But if you ask how can I edit this photo or how should I shoot it to look like the top pros... Well you are asking the wrong question.
How much processing is too much? That depends! If you are a photojournalist the answer is a lot different than if you are a fashion magazine photographer. Basically it will come down to the application and personal taste. You yourself noticed mistakes made in previous old edits and photos, and that is the key; as you practice and read and view other works that inspire you, you will develop your own style. But that can't and won't happen by others giving you formulas on how to take a good photo. I recently submitted a photo to the PEG and the horizon is right down the middle. Point is that even the "rules" in photography aren't really rules, they are more of suggestions or commonly used guidelines. Every landscape and scene is different, there can be no magic bullet method to photography.
Want to get better at astrophotography? Find photographers and blogs who dedicate to that type of photography, there is a lot to be learned from them. Want to learn to pose people? Find a blog that deals with portrait photography and never be afraid of "wasting" your time, rather see it as time invested in practicing (of course you better be practicing and learning, if you are making the same mistakes over and over you are really wasting your time). Take some shots, post them to the forum and ask for critique (and be prepared to receive it, both the things you did right and the stuff you didn't). Learn from your mistakes and keep shooting. People often "invest" in new gear and forget the biggest investment and the most important one: time. If you aren't putting in the time to learn and practice, you will not get better, no matter what gear you buy.
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Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories
06-08-2013, 10:19 PM
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I also have an Eye-Fi (4Gb Connect X2) but I use it when shooting studio portraits or product photos so I can view a larger image in the iPad. I also shoot RAW+JPEG so I can process the RAW in Lightroom for the final client images and view the JPEG on the iPad.
What you might try is to use the lowest resolution/quality JPEG available (in RAW+JPEG) to make the transfer of the images as fast as possible and then do an in-camera raw conversion to a better quality and more resolution JPEG for the one you really choose to upload. As you save the new JPEG it should transfer to your device.
As for the card reader, mine works fine with a small Targus card reader, although when I bought the card it came with it's own Eye-Fi card reader, so I usually use that card reader instead (it's faster). It is indeed an issue and not all card readers are compatible, although it's not much of an issue with newer card readers. I would recommend you get a newer reader that is compatible (it will most likely be faster anyways, and most card readers are not very expensive).
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
05-28-2013, 10:24 AM
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Sorry to hear that, hopefully servicing will be quick and you'll have your camera back in working order soon!
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
05-27-2013, 10:27 AM
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The electric sound is not a clicking noise, and the aperture and shutter activation sounds one opening and once closing, not a continuous clicking. I agree with manacho2005, based on the image and the fact that the camera was on a tripod with remote release, it seems to be an SR issue like I said in the first reply. Turn SR off in the menu (for all drive modes), update firmware (if you don't have the latest) and do a reset to factory settings . Shoot a few frames to see if the problem persists, if it does, you might need to send it off to service.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
05-26-2013, 08:36 AM
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Is the clicking during the exposure or after? Have you mounted the camera on a tripod and tested it at lower speeds to see if the images are still blurred? Have you tried turning off SR?
Because it you put the camera on a tripod and you still get blurry images it could be that the SR system could be out of whack and that's the clicking noise and the cause of blurry images.
If possible record a video or audio of the clicking noise and post it here.
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Forum: Photographic Industry and Professionals
05-23-2013, 10:29 AM
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The key to consistent output is having a good monitor (with a wide color gamut) and having it properly calibrated with a colorimeter. For printing, any good lab or print house will have icc profiles for their printers and their stock, they should give them to you upon request and you can proof what the final output would look like in Photoshop. Color space is very important so if you save using ProPhoto or AdobeRGB you retain a lot of the original color gamut but it you send to print using that color space in a printer that does not support it you will get lousy results.
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Forum: Photographic Industry and Professionals
05-22-2013, 08:38 AM
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Digital photography, although digital, is still photography! So when it comes down to it, it's still about creative vision and the know-how to capture that vision through the camera.
No amount of computer or software skill will make up for a lack of creative vision, and hours of photoshop will not make a poorly captured photo into a masterpiece. You see, even those computer engineers who wish to get good at photography must invest their time in learning the skills required for photography, they have the "advantage" that they use their software skills as a crutch to help them correct their mistakes, but it becomes a double edged sword in the sense that you can become accustomed to the crutch and not progress to where you should.
In the same way, you who already has knowledge about exposure and other aspects of photography, you must invest time in learning the digital darkroom tools, and you can rely on your knowledge of photography to get good photos that require minimal tweaking in post processing.
In either case, an investment of time into learning new skills is required. Learn Lightroom or some other digital darkroom software, you'll find that once you do, the photography skills you have gained with analog will not have been in vain.
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Forum: General Talk
05-21-2013, 12:24 AM
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Just talk to the seller of the item(s) you're interested in, they might be willing to make a deal with you using your paypal account from another country and ship to a US address. I once purchased a few lenses on the marketplace with my Paypal account (at the time registered in Venezuela) and had the lenses shipped to family in the US.
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
05-16-2013, 04:28 PM
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There are different Vivitar 283 out there, some with high sync voltage that will fry your K-5 electronics and some with a safe 6v sync voltage. BEFORE you mount the flash on the camera make sure you test the voltage. Here is a youtube video explaining the process.
You Tube
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src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/yo9tPDCsE7s?controls=1" allowfullscreen>
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Alternatively you can use the flash off-camera with radios like the Cactus V5 which are designed to withstand high voltages.
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Forum: Accessory and Memory Articles
11-26-2012, 06:24 PM
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Mainly the Cokin P lookalikes, but to my knowledge there is no 100mm filter holder that uses the P sized adaptor rings.
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Forum: Accessory and Memory Articles
11-25-2012, 06:36 PM
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Well if you are referring to the Cokin P holder, it will not fit. The Big Stopper is a 100mm sized filter (bigger than the P which is 85mm) so it's not about letting light in, rather it just won't fit. If you are referring to the Z Pro system, then yes, they will fit without a problem. If you have to buy the holder, Hitech makes an alternative to the Lee Foundation kit and of course you can also opt for the Cokin Z. About the adaptors, same thing, if you refer to the P system, then no, they will not work and you will have to buy new rings for whatever new holder you get.
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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
10-29-2012, 09:34 PM
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Have you tried fresh new batteries? I was shooting with a Metz and all of a sudden the flash stopped firing and the backlight of the lcd started flickering, I thought it was toast, swapped out the batteries and it was back to life, everything working normally. The weird thing was that usually when the batteries die out it just takes a very long time to recycle, this time it was recycling almost normally (taking a little longer than usual) then it just didn't work.
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Forum: Visitors' Center
10-14-2012, 12:42 PM
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Any lens with a K mount and an aperture ring will work with a K1000, obviously autofocus will not work regardless of the lens, and since the K1000 uses a split prism focusing screen fast glass is better and makes manual focusing easier. There is a pretty complete lens database here in Pentax Forums, here is a link to all the compatible lenses for the K1000 Film Era Pentax K-Mount Lenses - Pentax Lens Reviews & Lens Database |
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
08-31-2012, 08:00 PM
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Most likely it was a main factor for the PZ-1 cost at launch. Back then Pentax was still very strong in the SLR market and could capitalize on it's market share despite high costs, but if you look at the current market the competition for the most part keeps prices down and has a lot of market presence, Pentax can ill afford to produce cameras that are priced too much over the competition (case in point, look at all the flak the K-5 got over the fact that it cost more than de Nikon D7000 at launch). Corners are being cut all the time on all brands, and perhaps Pentax decided to focus on small, robust bodies rather than faster shutters. To be perfectly honest there are certainly times I wished I could sync faster, but it doesn't happen all that often.
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
08-30-2012, 10:23 PM
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Mainly because of cost, it costs more to produce a faster shutter assembly that is reliable.
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
08-24-2012, 08:22 PM
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I believe it will sync at the max speed your camera allows (I haven't really tried it). Don't expect to get much power out of the flash at those speeds though!
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
08-24-2012, 05:39 AM
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It allows you to sync the flash at shutter speeds above the x-sync speed (on Pentax cameras the x-sync speed is 1/180s) this means that you can use fill flash in very sunny settings where 1/180s would mean very small apertures. So for example you could use your flash for fill at 1/1000s. Of course the flash is not able to output it's full power when set to HSS and it requires that the flash have dedication to the camera system you are using as well as using TTL metering (which means it can't be used with radio triggers).
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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
08-22-2012, 11:56 AM
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I stand corrected, I had not done a firmware update on my 48-AF and was not aware they had added this feature (it did not have it prior to the 3.0 firmware update), thanks to you and @Timd for pointing this out.
The servo mode in Metz flashes is indeed just a dumb slave mode set to ignore preflash, you can test this out by grabbing any other flash, setting it to the lowest power and firing off 2 flashes in quick succesion, the metz in servo mode will fire along with the second flash (I tried this with a Vivitar HV285), which means it will sync with any other camera or flash system that uses pre-flash for metering, it works very well with the onboard set to regular flash (more proof that the Metz in servo mode does not use or require Pentax's wireless P-TTL specification).
I was able to get the onboard flash to sync with the Metz in servo mode using the onboard as controller which I thought was pretty cool, but since I normally use radio triggers with the flashes on manual control it seems pretty moot to want to use optical sync with manual flash control (seeing as how I get better range and reliabilty using radio).
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