Forum: Photographic Technique
04-02-2015, 04:52 PM
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Forum: General Photography
04-01-2015, 12:23 PM
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I really hate all the April Fools idiocy. Grown adults should have better things to do with their time. :rolleyes:
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Forum: General Photography
03-29-2015, 12:28 PM
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Unfortunately, there are ignorant jerks everywhere.
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Forum: General Photography
03-28-2015, 12:39 AM
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Ricoh GR or Sony RX100. I'd stay away from DSLR.
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Forum: Welcomes and Introductions
03-24-2015, 09:29 PM
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Think of it as tools and techniques used to make small things "large/big."
Interestingly, although most refer to the lenses as "macro," Nikon calls theirs "micro."
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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
03-21-2015, 11:14 AM
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Well, if you don't use Elements much, you can always use Perfect Effects in stand-alone mode. I see on the OnOne site that PE 9 only integrates with Elements 11 or newer so it doesn't surprise me that it won't work with Elements 9 but I don't know why it would crash the older software. During the install of PE, did you tell it to integrate with Elements?
The only thing I can suggest would be an uninstall/reinstall of Elements and decline to have it attempt to integrate PE 9, if that becomes an option. Otherwise, no clue.
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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
03-21-2015, 09:38 AM
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You should be able to uninstall/reinstall without deactivating anything. You might have to re-enter the serial number when you reinstall. I think I'd try uninstalling Perfect Effects first, though.
Now, the "Dutch Uncle" advice. :) Elements 9 is very old and you really should consider updating to a newer version. Elements 13 is out and can be found for discounted prices. I used version 9 years ago and can speak with assurance in saying version 13 is vastly improved. The improvements in editing tools has been remarkable. If the many improvements in the Editor are not enough reason, updating will ensure your Raw files will be supported if you upgrade your camera and the 2012 Process is much better as well.
If you do move up to a newer version of Elements, Perfect Effects 9 is now free and I can tell you from experience that it does not hang up with Elements 13.
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Forum: General Photography
03-19-2015, 02:11 AM
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It is actually not that surprising that the average home photographer does not even know that better lenses can produce better images. I can't count how many times folks who admire one of my images ask "what camera did you use?" Not what lens or technique, just what camera? They think the image is made by the camera and the lens is just a part of the camera. Why replace it if it isn't broken? Most never change lenses during the life of the camera unless they bought it as a "2-lens package." Even then, they just stay with the lenses that came with the camera as if something else would not "fit" as well as what came with it. These are the same type of folks who see no difference in other "tools of the trade" in other pursuits. "Why buy an expensive new guitar when the starter model I have works fine?" "Why invest so much in a high end tennis racket when the one I got at the local big box store works fine?"
They just don't understand and are not invested enough in the hobby to learn. They just want to take pictures of the kids or family vacation and don't care to delve further into the pastime. These are the folks the base models are for - the Canon Rebels and such. The kit lens is just fine for them. As long as they are happy, it is probably better to just let them enjoy what they have and get on with your life. Guys like that are probably happier in the long run than those of us who suffer from our irrational LBA or continual new camera lusts. :-D
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Forum: Photographic Industry and Professionals
03-18-2015, 07:21 PM
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It doesn't even have to be intellectual property. When you enter the famous 17-Mile Drive on the Monterey Peninsula in California, you get a printed warning that views of the equally famous "Lone Cypress Tree," located on a rocky point in the sea, have been copyrighted by the association. No photographs of that tree may be used for commercial purposes without paying a royalty. I have a number of decent images of that tree but can't ever sell them. :-)
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Forum: Welcomes and Introductions
03-16-2015, 01:23 PM
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Ever the contrarian, I'd feel remiss not to point out that the actual "nifty fifty" was a normal lens on the 35mm film camera. That means the new nifty fifty for the 1.5x crop Pentax is actually about a "neato" 35. Or maybe the excellent 31 mm prime. :-D
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Forum: General Photography
03-15-2015, 12:34 PM
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The Olympus process in the new OMD-EM5mk2 is different. The high definition files are actual multiple exposures, using the sensor shake reduction mechanism to take several slightly different images which are stitched together into one high res image. That process, of course, requires a greater degree of in-camera processing to produce that single, 40+ MP image from the same 16.3 MP sensor found in their flagship cameras.
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Forum: Pentax Full Frame
03-07-2015, 09:18 PM
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I have that feature on my Oly EM-5. As mentioned above, it is really just a different in-camera crop of the same Raw image.
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Forum: Pentax K-30 & K-50
02-27-2015, 05:48 PM
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With all the trouble being experienced by first-timers with the more demanding nature of the K-3, I can't in good conscience recommend it as a first DSLR. An inexperienced photographer will almost certainly get better and more consistent results with the K-50.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
02-25-2015, 12:59 PM
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+1. When using a flash, particularly with a mini-softbox attached, I take the hood off as it can cause shadowing at the bottom of the frame.
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Forum: Photographic Technique
02-22-2015, 11:56 AM
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For a deep hood, I just take it off, set the CPL and put the hood back on.
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
02-20-2015, 03:20 PM
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Huh? Might want to edit that.
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Forum: Welcomes and Introductions
02-20-2015, 01:30 AM
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Welcome, even though you have been lurking for awhile.
"Average part of California." More "average" than Fresno, where I am located? ;-)
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
02-18-2015, 09:55 PM
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Forum: General Photography
02-17-2015, 10:18 PM
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I am probably over sensitive and over-thinking things but I never post images to web sites that I will be selling or putting into stock. What I post - on any of several sites - is from my "2 star, almost good enough" catalog and never from the 3 star list. Most likely unnecessary but I got into the habit some time ago and see no reason to change now. YMMV.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
02-13-2015, 08:32 AM
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I don't see anything wrong with mentioning a brand name. We do it all the time here.
That said, I have to say that if you don't see any difference using a polarizer outdoors or not using one, you are probably not doing it correctly. When used correctly, intense sun will make the effect even more pronounced. The key is to use a polarizer when shooting at 90 degrees to the path of the light, or as close to 90 degrees as possible. As the angle is gradually reduced, so is the polarizing effect until no visible effect at all will be seen when shooting directly into or away from the sun. Perhaps you have been shooting with the sun over your shoulder and not seeing the effect. Try shooting at an angle to the light.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
02-12-2015, 08:26 AM
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You will hear differing opinions but I do, as do many top pros I know. I have seen extensive test results that show pretty clearly that high-quality clear filters have little or no impact on image quality, even when stacked. The key there is high quality. I use only multi-coated, optical glass filters from respected makers. Cheap filters are more likely to cause image problems.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
02-11-2015, 07:04 AM
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As a general rule, polarizing filters should only be put on when they are called for. They only show the effect when shooting "across" the light and not "with or against" the light. If not careful, you can get some funny effects, particularly with wide angles. And you will lose 1 to 1.5 stops of light just by putting on a polarizer. Best to reserve it for when you need it.
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Forum: Photographic Technique
02-01-2015, 10:36 PM
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Pretty much what others have said. It is more like shooting a rifle than many might be comfortable with. Stand straight with balance on both feet, do NOT lean forward. One foot slightly ahead. Camera/lens cradled in left hand. Right hand does not hold the camera up, it works the controls. Elbows in tight to the sides to make the body a solid support structure. You are making the body into a tripod. Breath in, breath partially out and hold, squeeze the shutter like a trigger. The shutter action is more of a rolling movement than a punching down motion. Lean against something if available.
Kind of like this: How to Hold a Camera - Digital Photography School |
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
02-01-2015, 10:16 PM
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Don't be afraid to push the ISO up with that camera. I often shoot stage performances at ISO 6400 and occasionally go up to 8,000 with my trusty K-5. You will get a little noise but that is easily dealt with in post-processing. I never use AF.C for stage shooting, only sports or fast moving planes, cars, etc. You will probably need a shutter speed of at least 1/60. If the performer is really moving around, that might need to go to 1/125 or even higher. For dance performances, I use 1/250 or 1/500 at f/4 and adjust ISO as needed. You will have to see how it goes. I would say to close the aperture down a bit to provide a little more depth of focus but that lens will pretty much do that for you, forcing you to f/5.6 when racked all the way out. Take some test shots early in the evening and make adjustments as you go. Don't just look at the back LCD. Look at the histogram and zoom in on a few of your test shots to check focus. I use center-weighted metering and spot focus. Full zone metering tends to get fooled by large expanses of dark stage.
Stage lighting can be very tricky, especially when you don't know ahead of time how it will be lit. Many venues like to use arty colored lights which will mess up your white balance. I generally set WB to incandescent and go from there, making adjustments as needed. Shooting Raw helps here as you can adjust in post-processing. Auto WB does a poor job on stage lighting.
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