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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II 09-29-2019, 12:03 PM  
K-1 soft images: AF Fine Adjustment or Body issue?
Posted By biz-engineer
Replies: 28
Views: 3,016
Note about AF calibration targets such as lensalign: Personally I don't use oblique targets for AF fine adjustment because the depth of field in front and back don't have the same depth (1/3rd in front and 2/3rd at the back of the focus plane). While expecting 50% of front DoF and 50% of back DoF by looking at an oblique scale, the well calibrated lens look like it is back focused while it's not. So if AF is adjusted to see best focus in the middle of the oblique scale, an error is introduced by the AF fine tune value (because DoF front/back isn't actually 50%/50% like it seems it should be when looking at the oblique scale). For this reason, I use a newspaper flat on a wall, and I take a set of pictures for each AF fine adjust value from -10 to +10, with the lens pre-focused at infinity and pre-focused nearest distance (because there could be some offset depending on where the lens AF is coming from). Then I successively rank all images from the sharpest to the least (it is easy to do so by side-by-side comparison), once the ranking is done it is easy to read the AF fine tune value that give the average best sharpness.
Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II 09-29-2019, 09:52 AM  
K-1 soft images: AF Fine Adjustment or Body issue?
Posted By CoreyC
Replies: 28
Views: 3,016
I get what you're saying Peter. It may be unrealistic, but I do kind of expect that for the prices we're paying for the bodies and lenses that the tolerances should be a bit tighter and that an AF adjustment beyond +/-5 should be the exception. But that's me with my high expectations.

I am going to look into shipping the body and a lens off for service. It's good to hear that they'll adjust to zero free of charge and I'm hopeful that recalibrating one camera/lens combo will have a positive impact on the rest since all my lenses are exhibiting back focusing right now.
Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands 01-07-2021, 02:36 AM  
Fuji GFX100s - 100MP Cropped Medium Format for under $6,000??
Posted By BigMackCam
Replies: 171
Views: 10,544
The crucial factors for printing are dot density (dpi - dots per inch) and viewing distance. If the dpi is too low for the intended or expected viewing distance, the printed image will appear pixelated. Visual acuity (eyesight), type of paper or material and the printing device used also have significant influence, as does the quality of the source image.

Assuming the viewer has good eyesight and the image is printed on high-quality coated paper by a decent commercial printing service, the approximate dpi requirements for various intended viewing distances are as follows:

1' (0.3m) - 600dpi
1.5' (0.5m) - 400dpi
2' (0.6m) - 300dpi
2.5' (0.8m) - 240dpi
3' (0.9m) - 200dpi
3.5' (1.1m) - 171dpi
4' (1.2m) - 150dpi
4.5' (1.4m) - 133dpi
5' (1.5m) - 120dpi
6' (1.8m) - 100dpi
7' (2.1m) - 86dpi
8' (2.4m) - 75dpi
9' (2.7m) - 67dpi
10' (3m) - 60dpi
12' (3.7m) - 50dpi
15' (4.6m) - 40dpi
20' (6.1m) - 30dpi
30' (9.1m) - 20dpi
50' (15.2m) - 12dpi
100' (30.5m) - 6dpi
200' (61m) - 3dpi
600' (182.9m) - 1dpi

A 36" x 24" print of a full-resolution photo taken with a Pentax K-5 (or K-1 in APS-C crop mode) would yield a density of approximately 137dpi. As such, it would be best viewed at a minimum distance of around 53"... much closer, and you or someone else viewing your print might start to notice pixelation. The same print from a full-resolution K-3 photo would have 167dpi, so it should look just as good at a distance of only 43". Shooting a K-1, you'd have 205dpi at this print size and could stand just 35" from it.

The resolution from Fujifilm's upcoming GFX100S should give you around 336dpi in that same print, allowing you to view it from only 21" - which is 22" closer than the K-3, and just 14" closer than the K-1, for this size of print. The price difference between the GFX100S plus lens and increased cost of technology for processing, storage and archiving, versus a K-1 plus an equally good lens, effectively buys you 14" closer viewing in this instance.

Of course, these are recommended viewing distances based on calculations and assumptions, without taking potentially influential factors into account. In reality, you could probably view the prints quite a bit closer and notice little degradation. Even with some degradation, you might not find it objectionable, especially if the prints are primarily for personal enjoyment. Looking at it another way, whilst 300dpi might be recommended for a viewing distance of 2', you might well find that 240dpi or even 200dpi would be sufficient for your own requirements and tolerances. The vast majority of us are far more interested in the aesthetic value of an image rather than optimal printing resolution.

You can print as large as you wish from any resolution of photo, but the lower the resolution, the more you'll need to step back from the print to appreciate it. More resolution buys you closer viewing distance for the same print dimensions, or bigger print dimensions for the same viewing distance.
Forum: General Photography 11-15-2020, 07:01 PM  
Hiking Camera
Posted By DWS1
Replies: 32
Views: 2,410
I'm curious what everyone is carrying for a camera when out hiking. I'm 65+ years old and have been taking a K70 w/16-85mm and love the flexibility and images I get with it. It works good for a relative short hike of up to about 4-5 miles, but much longer than that the weight becomes a big problem for me, even when using a chest harness. I recently took it on a 3 day 2 night backpacking trip of about 18 miles with a lot of up and down hiking, and said never again is that camera coming along. That 3+ lbs. doesn't sound like much weight but it is when added to the weight of backpacking gear. I'm looking for a different solution, and have even considered going back to my 15 year old 7.1mp Kodak ZD710 bridge camera. It only weighs about 12 oz. The problem is I really love my Pentax. What good quality lightweight cameras are others here taking in long or difficult hiking situations?
Forum: Travel, Events, and Groups 08-28-2020, 08:23 AM  
Camera Gear for multi day hikes
Posted By robgski
Replies: 30
Views: 4,017
The question are you a hiker who takes photos, or a photographer who likes to hike?

I think the K-1 with the 28-105 combo is probably your best choice for most occasions.

The nice thing about a child walking on his own is that slows every hike down enough for you to take more pictures, and children see everything as new and interesting, and that can influence your picture taking and choice of subjects as well.
Forum: Pentax Full Frame 08-02-2019, 10:31 PM  
K1 users: what lenses do you use?
Posted By TJWest
Replies: 197
Views: 23,956
I have only had my K1 for a few weeks, but this is what I am using on it:

28-105mm - This lens is simply amazing for the price. Shoots way above its price point. Really nothing major to complain about it.
90mm Tamron macro - This was great on my k30 and it is even better on my K1. I bought this about five years ago, so not the newest version, but still. Besides suffering from CA, it is freaking nice for the price.
DA 40mm LImited - great lens on the K30 and works pretty well stopped at F8 or better. It produces great shots and colors. Great for landscape and portraits
FA 35mm F2 - I got this yesterday (the updated version) - WOW. First few shots are really impressing me. Super sharp. Lovely colors. This is going to steal all the DA 40mm limited time on my K1.

I took a similar shot with my 28-105mm as with the 35mm. The zoom had massive CA in the light reflections on the ripples.. The 35mm ZERO. And this is not a fault of the zoom by any large means. It is a shot that would make most lenses cringe.
The first one is with the zoom, the second one is with the 35mm. Very impressed indeed! I will be posting more on my flickr account and on the K1 pics thread going forward. For less than 400 Euros, it is a worthy prime.
Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands 11-13-2019, 03:21 AM  
Fuji X series club
Posted By tomek_j
Replies: 5,665
Views: 399,989
Foggy dawn

Forum: General Photography 11-10-2019, 02:07 PM  
Benefit of Mirrorless cameras with EVF -- 'Seeing' in black and white
Posted By stevebrot
Replies: 46
Views: 3,153
I can do this in live view on my K-3 and also on my phone, though there is usually no advantage to doing so even when I know in advance that I will do a monochrome treatment in post. The two photos below are good examples...




On this one ^ ^ ^ I noted the high-valued yellows and golds in contrast against the blue sky before even setting up. The color version has so-so impact, but post processing to take advantage of those points of contrast and glow made for a rather more interesting monochrome image. Using a "canned" monochrome viewfinder treatment would have been detrimental to the process.*




The area in the Mt. St. Helens blast zone is famously lacking in color and also famously rich in texture and topography. On this day, storms were brewing over the main Cascade Range to the east and those bright clouds along with the summit shroud provided a happy accent against the debris plain. This one was easy to visualize as monochrome, mostly because that is the palette of the place.

I should probably mention that I have been doing monochrome photography since the late 1960s and the option of "seeing" in tonal values comes as second nature. I always do a mental evaluation of the range of light, even when the intent is a full color capture.


Steve

* While having this option for the Nikon EVF, might be of limited usefulness to a monochrome digital noob, I am surprised that an experienced pro would call this feature out.
Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II 02-05-2018, 10:16 PM  
Pentax k1 + 43mm?
Posted By LeRolls
Replies: 29
Views: 11,541
I occasionally use the 43 on the K-1 for some of my paid work and overall I like the combo.

Wine, Candles, and Steamy Thoughts by Christopher Rankin, on Flickr
Forum: Photographic Industry and Professionals 06-08-2019, 02:29 PM  
Nikon recommendation: sell! sell! sell!
Posted By david94903
Replies: 173
Views: 15,332
I work in government, and we still use the microfiche reader for older records (pre 2006 is considered "older" in my work world). We often have "younger" folks come in looking for information, and it's a hoot watching the expressions on their faces when they're directed to the microfiche reader, LOL!!! Most think its an antique computer, and almost all ask how they login to the device. And it's an even bigger shock once they're shown how to use the thing :lol::lol::lol: Almost makes it worth going to work in the morning :lol:
Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands 05-08-2019, 05:58 AM  
Currently Watching my Managers Failing at Flash Photography
Posted By victormeldrew
Replies: 30
Views: 2,485
The funny thing is, if they were good managers they would realise that the money they're spending by both being paid managerial wages for doing a substandard job for a day will probably far exceed the cost of getting good results by hiring in a pro for an hour.
Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands 05-08-2019, 02:11 AM  
Currently Watching my Managers Failing at Flash Photography
Posted By biz-engineer
Replies: 30
Views: 2,485
The core skill in management is to know how to have other people do the work for you. A "good" manager would ask someone else to take the camera and go take photos for him, return with the results.
Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands 05-07-2019, 04:54 PM  
Currently Watching my Managers Failing at Flash Photography
Posted By BigMackCam
Replies: 30
Views: 2,485
If you have an expensive camera, surely a pro isn't necessary? :hmm: :cool: :lol:
Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands 05-07-2019, 04:15 PM  
Currently Watching my Managers Failing at Flash Photography
Posted By MarkJerling
Replies: 30
Views: 2,485
See, that's why I'm no good in the corporate environment. I would have walked over and said: "You guys look like you could use some help." :)
Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands 04-05-2019, 12:43 PM  
A "Professional DSLR" for $26? - Full Review [bandwidth warning - many images]
Posted By biz-engineer
Replies: 46
Views: 6,317
Not sure if the camera model is professional, but the review is.
Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands 04-05-2019, 11:38 AM  
A "Professional DSLR" for $26? - Full Review [bandwidth warning - many images]
Posted By luftfluss
Replies: 46
Views: 6,317
So... "Silver Award"?
Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands 04-05-2019, 10:30 AM  
A "Professional DSLR" for $26? - Full Review [bandwidth warning - many images]
Posted By biz-engineer
Replies: 46
Views: 6,317
Is that a mirrorless DSLR?

---------- Post added 05-04-19 at 19:32 ----------


no sure a viewfinder is needed. Just close one eye, and use the other eye to find the view!
Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands 04-05-2019, 10:08 AM  
A "Professional DSLR" for $26? - Full Review [bandwidth warning - many images]
Posted By BigMackCam
Replies: 46
Views: 6,317
A "Professional DSLR" for $26? - Full Review




Introduction

Photography can be an expensive hobby, and a significantly more expensive professional vocation - especially if you choose to shoot with the latest equipment. For hobbyists, a current entry-level camera body and a brace of decent auto-focusing lenses can cost $1,000+, while professionals need pockets that are many times deeper, with bodies alone costing upwards of $3,000 - and that's before high end glass is added.

It was with great excitement, then, that I learned of a recently-released "professional DSLR camera" with a typical online price of just $26 including shipping. Such a product, I realised, could level the playing field for photographers regardless of their available budgets.

At this early stage, the new camera - as yet unbranded, and with no definitive model designation - isn't available from major distributors, but can be readily acquired from internet auction sites.




Product Images







Specifications

The features and specifications given in various auction listings aren't entirely consistent, but the user guide helpfully lists the following:

(a) System Requirements

The Video Recorder is applicable to a PC with below conifgurations or above.

Windows XP/2000/ME/98 SE Operation system or above
Intel Pentium III 500Mhz CPU or above
Support USB 1.1 port or above
4xspeed CD-ROM or above
200M hard disc or above

(B) Features

Image sensor 16 Mega Pixels CMOS Sensor by interpolation
Video Clip 1080P (1920x1080) 30fps / 720P (1280x720P) 30fps by interpolation, VGA (640x480)
Build-in microphone Yes
Build in speaker Yes
PC camera VGA : QVGA 320 x 240
Build-in Memory: No
Storage Media SD (up to 32G), MMC, Support SDHC
Digital Zoom 16x Digital Zoom interpolation
File Format JPEG / AVI
LCD Display
PC Interface USB 2.0
Power Source 4 x AAA Batteries (DO Not included in the accessories)
Supported O/S Microsoft Window 98SE, ME, 2000, XP, VISTA

(C) The package shall contain all the accessories below, please contact your retailer if anything is missing or damaged. List of package contents

Video recorder
Usb cable
User manual

The above duplicates, but in some aspects differs from, the specifications given in various online auctions - one example of which reads:

Specifications and parameters of the CMOS sensor, up to 16 million pixels
Storage medium can be expanded to 32 gb SD card/HCSD card
Automatic sensitivity, ISO100, ISO200, ISO400
Lens fixed lens F / 3.2, F = 7.6 mm
1.2 m - infinity focus range
Static images jpeg/VGA, 1 m, 3 m, 5 m and 12 m, 16 m (interpolation)
Clips AVI 1080 p, 720 p VGA
16x digital zoom, zoom
Image stabilization function support
LED lighting lamp < 1.0 m range opening/closing
Automatic white balance/sun/cloudy/bulbs/fluorescent lamp
Exposure compensation - 2.0 + / 2.0
Take time off / 2 seconds / 5 seconds / 10 seconds
Computer usb interface (high speed)
Automatic shutdown 1/3/5/10 minutes
The built-in microphones
The speaker built-in
2.4 inch TFT - LCD LCD screen (230000 pixels, 4:3)
NTSC/PAL video output
Power lithium ion battery NP-5c
115 (long) X48 size (high) X50 (wide) mm
Weight about 220 g


Despite some question-marks over the notable differences between official and quoted specifications, it's clear this camera has an interesting feature set!

Testing reveals that the lens and sensor offers a field of view more-or-less equivalent to a 50mm lens on a 35mm "full frame" camera, with a fixed aperture and focal distance that ensures everything is in acceptable focus. Whilst this may seem limiting, the simple technique of "zooming with your feet" works perfectly to increase and decrease the field of view. Furthermore, panoramic stitching of multiple frames - using free software such as Hugin - offers countless opportunities for wider angle captures, whilst selective use of blurring in post-production offers all the background and foreground blur any photographer might need. A simple and elegant solution, I'm sure you'll agree.


What's in the box

The cardboard retail box is reassuringly six-sided with a handy opening lid, emblazoned with clear images of the product and quoting a selection of its disputable features. Even at first glance, the buyer will be encouraged by the presentation.

The contents of the box are pleasingly minimalist... just the camera itself, pre-fitted with wrist strap and tethered lens cap, protected by an efficiently-thin bubble wrap, a USB cable in a clear plastic bag (I have seen none clearer in all my years of photography), and a comprehensive single-sheet English-language user guide.










Hobbyists and enthusiasts may be disappointed by the lack of additional accessories and materials provided, but professionals will undoubtedly appreciate the reduced clutter, confident that they have received exactly what they paid for and nothing more. Major manufacturers take note: There is no need to provide CDROMs, cables and documentation in every conceivable language. This increases the unit cost and is of little benefit to most buyers.

One notable omission from the kit is a battery. Contrary to the official specifications and online auctions which stipulate AAA and NP-5c lithium ion batteries respectively, the camera takes 4 x AA batteries. It would have been nice to receive a set of these as part of the retail package, but since they are inexpensive and widely available, it's not a problem. Excluding them was clearly intended to optimise unit cost and comply with international shipping regulations. Given the price of OEM battery packs for competing cameras, I believe the end user's interests were prioritised here.


Construction and Handling

This camera is constructed entirely from synthetic injection-moulded materials, with the exception of the strap lugs which are metal. It feels comfortable in the hand, with an extended grip area at the rear, and a textured thumb-rest. The shutter button and controls operate with a satisfying click which reverberates through the body to confirm successful operation. The flash button raises the LED "flash" via a sturdy spring mechanism. There is an internal microphone at the front of the camera, next to the lens, and a speaker at the top. A rubber door on one side of the body opens to reveal the SDHC card slot, USB interface and headphone socket. On the underside of the body we find a threaded tripod socket (made from the same sturdy material as the body, and the locking battery door, which is slightly fidly and stiff to operate, but closes and locks securely. The lens is protected by an integrated clear "filter". Sadly, there is no thread to allow fitting of additional filters, but judicious use of inexpensive duct tape allows filters of any size to be securely attached.

In contrast to the quoted dimensions, I measure the body to be approximately 118mm at its widest point, 86mm in height at its tallest, 56mm in depth (including grip), and 114mm from the lens cap to the screen. It weighs just 176g, and 272g with 4 x Energizer Max Plus batteries installed. Not dissimilar in size, then, to a Pentax K-70 plus standard kit zoom lens - but considerably lighter. This is a camera you can carry all day without breaking sweat.

Whilst there is no mention of weather resistance, it's my belief that the manufacturer has applied a "cost versus risk" approach. In the event of failure due to dust or moisture ingress, complete replacement of the unit would cost less than the shipping fees to return most other cameras for warranty service. As such, I conclude that the weather resistance capabilities are excellent, though implemented in an unconventional way. Thinking outside the box, one might say.


User Interface

The top panel of the camera hosts the power on / off, shutter, zoom in and zoom out buttons. The flash release / activation button is on the side of the flash housing. On the rear of the camera, to the right of the 2.4" LCD display, are the mode button, a four way control cluster with multiple functions, and an unmarked centrally-placed "OK" button.

When powering up the camera, the screen displays a "WELCOME" message, for which I am grateful - I am indeed made to feel most welcome for every shoot. When powering down, either using the power button or when the camera automatically switches off to save power, a "Goodbye" message is displayed. I feel this is somewhat final and abrupt. "Until next time!" or "Come back real soon, now, you hear?" might have been preferable, but perhaps screen real-estate dictates the brevity.

The camera defaults to stills shooting mode. Two others, video and playback, are supported. Each press of the mode button cycles between these three modes, and each has its own dedicated menus and on-screen information markers.


Stills mode

In stills mode, the "camera" icon is shown in the upper left corner of the display, with EV compensation, file quality, resolution and number of shots remaining shown along the top. In the lower left corner is the battery life indicator, and in the lower right, a status indicator to show whether an SD card is installed. Pressing the down button on the four way control cluster switches increases the EV compensation by one third of a stop between the +/-2.0 limits, looping round to -2.0 when the upper limit is exceeded. The up button selects the resolution, with each press reducing the resolution from 16M to 12M, 5M, 3M, 2M and 1M respectively, before looping back to 16M. The zoom in and out buttons reduce or increase the field of view accordingly, and the shutter button captures a shot. The right button on the four way cluster, marked for playback, switches into a limited playback mode showing the image last captured. From here, the up and down buttons will cycle through other captured images on the card.

The left button, marked "M", enters the menus. The shooting menu provides adjustments for resolution (16, 12, 5, 3, 2 and 1M), timed and burst shooting (single shot, 2 and 10 second timer, and 4 shot burst), file quality (super fine, fine, normal), Exposure (EV) compensation, and on / off selection for date and time labelling and format. The settings menu provides adjustments for date & time, auto power off time, screen saver time, sounds (shutter sound on / off and beep volume), language, display frequency (50/60Hz), card formatting, return to default settings, and firmware version display (v1.10 in this camera).

As a point of particular note, this DSLR constantly shoots in Live View mode, and there is no mirror to move out of the optical path when a shot is taken. Coupled with the fully-electronic shutter, this allows for near silent shooting if the shutter sound setting is disabled.


Video mode

In video mode, a video camera icon is showin in the upper left corner, with EV compensation, recordinging resolution and remaining recording time shown along the top. Battery and SD card indicators are also displayed.

Entering the menus, the shooting menu provides adjustments for resolution (1080P [1920x1080], 720P [1280x720] and VGA [640x480]), cyclic record (3, 5 and 10 mins) for looped recording, exposure (EV) compensation and date labelling. The settings menu is the same as for stills mode.

Videos are shot at 30fps.


Playback mode

On entering playback mode, pressing the right hand cluster button displays the last photo or video captured, along with the "play" icon in the upper left and the index number / total files in the upper right of the display. The up and down cluster buttons cycle up and down through the image and video files stored on the SD card. For video files, the first frame is displayed. Pressing the unmarked "OK" button in the centre of the cluster will start and pause playback.

There is just one menu for playback, providing functions to delete and lock files, and one to display thumbnails.


Overall, the modes menus are easy to navigate, and the user interface is straightforward, whilst offering a wide variety of settings.


Firmware Omissions and Bugs

Since the camera reviewed is an early model with v1.10 firmware, there are - unsurprisingly - a few minor omissions and bugs in firmware functionality:
  • stills resolution settings of 16, 12, 5 and 3M all produce images of 1280x960 resolution, while the 2M setting produces 640x480 images

  • 1M images are recorded incorrectly, resulting in corrupt files, locking up the camera on playback

  • video settings of 1080P and 720P produce videos of 1280x960 resolution (VGA correctly produces 640x480 files)

  • file quality settings of super fine, fine and normal all produce the same quality of files, with no change in recorded detail, compression or file size

  • the digital zoom function only works on the live view image, and not on the recorded images

  • metering is not yet (as the documentation would suggest) switchable between centre, matrix and spot (I suspect centre-weighted is used)

  • selectable in-camera playback effects for B&W, sepia and various colour styles (listed in the documentation) are not available


As you would expect, none of these issues seriously impacts use of the camera. Metering aside, all other limitations - resolution, field of view / magnification, file size, colour and monochrome effects - can be dealt with efficiently using free post-processing software such as GIMP. This requires the user to learn the post-processing software and techniques, but professionals will consider this to be "bread and butter" stuff, and by no means a barrier to successful shooting.

On one occasion during testing, my stills were recorded at just 320x240, for no obvious reason. A factory reset resolved this issue. Looking at the numbers and maths, those of a doubting nature might jump to the conslusion that 320x240 is the base resolution of the sensor, with the 640x480 and 1280x960 resolution images merely being scaled. However, I will let the images and video later in this review speak for themselves.

Lastly, the date & time labelling setting occasionally reset itself to the default of "On", as evidenced by a number of the test shots shown later in the review. This is a little frustrating, but if the user checks the settings before shooting (as any professional would), it isn't a problem. As an alternative, spot healing can be applied in post-processing to remove the overlayed information without significantly impacting the overall quality of an image.

Given the price and recent release of the camera, we can surely forgive these small inconveniences and be confident that firmware updates will address them in the very near future.


Drive Modes and Flash

The camera offers single shot, 2 and 10 second timed shot, and burst drive modes. The single and timed shot modes are self-explanatory, and work as you would expect. The burst mode takes four shots at approximately one second intervals, ideal for birds in flight, sports and other fast action scenarios. Some enthusiasts would wish for fast burst shooting, but this simply results in many near-identical shots. Here, the manufacturer cleverly ensures there will be enough difference between each captured scene by increasing the delay to around one second.

The "flash" is in fact a powerful LED light that switches on just before the shot is captured and switches off just after it. There is no recharge time, and the useful range is approximately one metre - more than ample for most situations, I think you'll agree. Unfortunately, off-camera flash is not supported... potentially a serious omission, were it not for the luminosity of the on-camera LED.


Focusing


Since the lens is of fixed focal length, aperture and focal distance, auto-focus simply isn't required. Let me repeat that for your due consideration... Auto-focus isn't required. As a result, there's no delay in focusing, no hunting, no continuous AF tracking inaccuracies, no AF fine adjustment to worry about, no noisy screw-drive or risk of sonic motor failure. It is impossible to over-state the benefits of such a system, and how liberating it can be to shoot. Critics will bemoan the lack of distance-specific focusing, but - once more - I ask them to reserve judgement until they have reviewed the sample images. Seeing is believing.


General Image Quality

And so to the part everyone has been waiting for...

This section of the review is, of course, limited slightly by the firmware omissions and bugs already disclosed - to wit, a maximum available resolution of 1280 x 960. Even so, this is more than enough resolution for the majority of applications, and future firmware updates can only improve upon the results obtained.

When I took my first test shots with the camera, I was pleased with the results when played back on the unforgiving 230k 2.4" LCD screen. But when I downloaded the images to my PC and viewed them in GIMP, nothing could have prepared me for what I saw. White balance and colour accuracy are both admirably decent, but it's the rendering that - frankly - left me quite speechless. I have never before witnessed straight-out-of-camera images of this quality from any camera.

I did notice some very mild noise reduction, and perhaps a little sharpening too. But let us not forget that Pentax's current flagship full-frame camera, the K-1II, also uses such techniques in its processing chain.

The following shot, re-sized in GIMP to an optimal 320x240 but otherwise unedited, was taken on a sunny day in my garden:




And now, the same image at 100% pixel-peeping reproduction:




The combination of lens, sensor and in-camera processing have revealed and rendered aspects of this scene that I've not previously noticed in straight-out-of-camera files from any other camera.

This last image (shown first at 320x240, then full size) is cropped, scaled and sharpened in GIMP to provide a narrower field of view and significant magnification. Observe how this simple technique, combined with the sensor's native image resolution and clever in-camera processing, offer possibilities for much tighter and longer-range shooting without significant loss of image quality:






Unfortunately, the fixed focus lens proves limiting for macro photography, and more research is needed to improve close focusing (perhaps using lens attachments).


Video Quality

Again, limited slightly by current firmware, presented here is example video footage shot at maximum available resolution (I encourage readers to copy the video URL and view it in a separate browser tab, so it can be resized and assessed more closely):
















Youtu.be




As can be observed at the start of the video, there is very slight rolling shutter effect when quickly panning left and right, yet nothing that should dis-hearten the determined cinematographer. Note the effective image stabilisation and exposure compensation as light and contrast changes within the scene.


Photo Samples

The following photos are unedited, straight-out-of-camera images. First, shown at an optimal resolution of 320x240:




... and now, at 1280x960, 100% pixel-peeping reproduction:






















Conclusion

This camera represents a valiant effort to make professional photography accessible to all, regardless of budget. For this, the manufacturer must be applauded.

However... restrictions to resolution, metering options and exposure compensation in the early firmware, and the lack of off-camera flash control, mean that it doesn't quite compare with flagship professional DSLRs from the major manufacturers just yet. As a result, the photographer who chooses this camera for professional engagements will be something of a maverick, one who is ready to accept a few challenges in order to get the very best end results. His reward, though, will be the look on the face of his client when he presents the portfolio of his shoot... ;)

:D:D:D
Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands 03-26-2019, 01:56 PM  
Fuji X series club
Posted By Kuzma
Replies: 5,665
Views: 399,989
Selfie by Alexey Latyshev, on Flickr
Forum: Post Your Photos! 12-08-2018, 02:29 PM  
Night Andromeda Galaxy with New Scope and the K-1
Posted By Colorado CJ
Replies: 25
Views: 2,429
I received my new Stellarvue Access 80 ED yesterday. Luckily it was also a clear night! I set the scope up on my AZ-GTI in EQ mode and shot 1 minute subs. I probably could have went a little longer as the mount was tracking GREAT, I only had to reset it for the meridian flip.

So far, I am really liking the scope. I am using The Stellarvue SFF3-25-48 field flattener, but I still see pretty bad coma around the edges using a full frame DSLR. with a slight crop they are gone though.

Specs for the image are:

Scope: Stellarvue Acess 80 with 2.5" focuser, SFF3-25-48 field flattener
Focal Length: 560mm
Focal Ratio: F7
Camera: Pentax K-1
ISO: 1600
Exposure: 60 sec.
Shots: 100

I used Astro Pixel Processor for stacking. I am still learning the ropes with this program, so I am sure I am not doing things 100% correctly yet. I post processed in Photoshop and also in Nik Effects plugin.

Here is the photo.

Andromeda 100-60 sec 7 Dec 2018 by Andrew Marjama, on Flickr
Forum: Post Your Photos! 02-12-2019, 02:21 PM  
Landscape Bank of the Volga river in winter
Posted By Chetverovod
Replies: 8
Views: 713
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 11-21-2018, 05:31 PM  
Your FF Travel Kit
Posted By dave2k
Replies: 108
Views: 8,962
I primarily shoot landscapes when I travel and my kit depends on how much hiking is involved. Lately I've traveled with more lenses but I only take a subset with me at any one time. Here's my scheme, all to be used with my trusty K-1:
  • Just one lens for general shooting: 28-105

  • Just one lens for landscape: 24-70 (more likely to want the 24 than the longer focal lengths provided by the 28-105)

  • Two lenses for landscape: 15-30 and 24-70

  • Two lenses with a desire for lower size / weight: Samyang 14 and 24-70

  • General purpose kit with backpack: 15-30, 24-70, 60-250, perhaps with a carbon fiber travel tripod

  • Minimal size and weight: FA 20 or Samyang 14, 28-105

  • Unlimited space and weight, i.e. a car trip: add the D FA 100 and the D FA 150-450


No matter what I take, there's always going to be those times when I wish I had a lens that I left behind. That is inevitable!
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 11-21-2018, 02:53 PM  
Your FF Travel Kit
Posted By Paul the Sunman
Replies: 108
Views: 8,962
My full frame international travel kit seems to have settled down to K1 + DFA 28-105, DFA 15-30 (especially when there will be monumental architecture), and the DA 40 Limited. This seems to do just about everything I need (not wildlife of course). I have just returned from 8 days in Japan, and the number of shots I took with each of these lenses was 28-105mm: 510; 15-30mm: 95; 40mm: 147.

The DA 40 is there because it is so tiny there is no reason not to carry it, and it is useful in low light where the 28-105 struggles. Looking back at the 147 shots taken with this lens, very few are adversely affected by the fact this is technically a crop lens. The DFA 15-30 is great for temples and interiors, and some landscapes. The DFA 28-105 is just a great all-rounder.

I am interested to hear what other people regard as a good FF travel kit. Clearly, it depends on where you are going, so please say a few words about why you choose particular lenses.

A representative image taken with the DA40 Limited, FF uncropped, f/4.5, 1/40 sec.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 01-16-2019, 01:44 AM  
APSC Portrait Lens info
Posted By Dartmoor Dave
Replies: 34
Views: 2,949
Just a slightly finicky point for the sake of clarity: different focal lengths don't cause facial distortions. Different focal lengths force shooting at different distances to get the framing you want, and it's the different distances that cause the distortions. I know you knew that already, but I just wanted it to be made clear in the thread.

Shoot from too close with too wide a lens and people will look like their heads have been inflated with air hoses.

Shoot from too far away with too long a lens and people will look like their faces have been ironed flat.

So if your subject has got a big round head and a long nose and bulgy-out eyes (like me), shooting from further away with a longer lens will be more flattering. If your subject has got flat features and a button nose, going in closer and a bit wider might suit them better. Choose a shooting distance by eye, without even looking through your viewfinder, that makes your subject's particular individual features look good, then use a focal length that lets you shoot from that distance.
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion 01-15-2019, 03:51 PM  
APSC Portrait Lens info
Posted By Lowell Goudge
Replies: 34
Views: 2,949
forget everything posted up until now, and learn one simple formula

image size = subject size x focal length / distance,

or to re order this in terms of shooting distance

distance = subject size x focal length / image size.

for image size consider the format of your camera, APS C at 24 x 16 or full frame at 36 x 24, and whether this dimension is horizontal or vertical for your framing

for subject size, height of your subject, 30 Cm for head shot, 1 meter for Seated with torso and 2 meters for standing

with this info, think about the to have or can have based upon location, and work out what lens / focal length fills your frame appropriately.

there are no rules, or standard lenses. also consider longer lenses flatter the subject because there is less perspective distortion making nearer objects (like noses) appear bigger than they are, and longer lenses tend to produce nicer bokeh (out of focus detail) because the relative magnification of out of focus background appears larger than witl shorter lenses.

think about what you are going to do, and try out a few different lenses / focal lengths. decide for yourself the perspective and look you like
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