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Forum: Pentax K-5 & K-5 II
10-20-2010, 02:57 PM
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Thanks, Alex for sharing your HDR shots; very nice indeed..
I have my K10D and K-7, both of them has "multiple exposure" option feature. I wonder if this feature is also available on the Nikon lineup (d90 or D300s, D700 or D3).
Again, nice to hear from a pro shooter getting excited about the K-5.
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
09-05-2009, 09:43 PM
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Thanks to Haakan, the OP, and other posters on this thread (such as Marc, Will, Falconeye.. more) for enlightening me and helping me understanding the true benefit of FF vs APS-C sensor format instead of just following what most people who "claimed" to know better said.
I had a discussion with friends who recently bought the 5D MK II and another one who is waiting to buy for the next D700 FF body. They both claimed that all professionals use FF format, and there is definitely a big advantage with low noise in high ISO because they read anything on the Internet about this, I must be wrong and I should not waste money on Pentax and APS-C body. What do I know, they must have learned all these "facts" from the Canikon camp not independent reviews. I am not going to argue about that... Now, I read this thread (every poster's contribution) and feel that my choice to stay on APS-C is not bad at all (my next upgrade would be K-7); with my setup of DA* 50-135mm f2.8, I would be no worse than 5D MK II 24-105mm L f4 which by the way will cost me twice as much.
Thanks again to all posters on this thread.
Alfred
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Forum: Photo Critique
06-27-2019, 06:07 PM
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I keep looking at this photo many times and come up empty with words because it looks to me something is missing, but I just don't know what. Until finally after looking at some of my old travel photos taken at top of the mountain years ago I suddenly got it... it is missing the "middle" ground because I know when you were there taking the photo, you probably remember the breath-taking view from where you stand. Unfortunately, when looking at the photo, it does not give my that feeling. For me in this photo, I am not too obsessed with the horizon and the sunset (color etc); unless that is what you want, but I would rather capture the grand view of everything around me with a majestic view. This photo does not do it for me, I would look for something in the photo that can provide me with a sense of scale. That's just IMHO and I could be wrong.
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Forum: Post Your Photos!
02-16-2016, 11:46 AM
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Here is one that I have done recently in a theatre performance show in celebration of the Chinese New Year - Year of the monkeys.
 K52P0427 by chanats, on Flickr
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
07-19-2019, 02:53 PM
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OP, just to get an idea of the FF vs APS-C differences, I attached a couple of photos taken on my travel to Tokyo in 2017. First one is the cropped photo from the original image taken with k-1; the second is the original (from DNG file). Back to your original question, narrow DOF does not play any part in my style of photography, and most of my photos are in f4 - f5.6 range, and sometimes f8 (probably the sweet spot in many of the lenses I use). It is not a true comparison but close enough if you were using APS-C camera vs FF camera using the same aperture.
 K1_P0386_1
 K1_P0386
 K1_P0299_1
 K1_P0299
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
07-19-2019, 11:44 AM
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If I may ask you whether those travel portraits are cropped or not after the shots are taken? The reason I am asking is that close-up shots can make the subject (person) uncomfortable as you are getting into someone "personal" space. As an event photographer, we don't usually do that unless requested, especially for someone unknown to you while traveling, I think in your case, your style, the crop sensor camera gives you more room between you and the subject, with a full frame camera like k-1, you have to get closer.
I have both k-1 and k-3, I seldom take wide-open shots (the days of bokeh fever have subsided :)), accurate focusing with enough DOF is the key IMHO. The k-3 provides more DOF for the same f stop, but I prefer the look of shots taken from the k-1. My travel photography style is more like pinholecam's with sufficient background stuff surrounding the subject.
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Forum: General Photography
07-19-2019, 06:07 PM
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Years of event photography taught me not to go after the "dreamy shallow DOF with nice bokeh" photos.
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Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
09-20-2016, 08:55 AM
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If I am not mistaken, isn't the HD DA-1.4 converter designed mainly for the crop sensor? Perhaps the older version non-HD FA converter may work on K-1 in FF mode.
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Forum: Welcomes and Introductions
06-29-2019, 05:07 PM
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Welcome and hope you find this forum useful in your journey of photography.
The Hanimax brand is an off-brand much like vivitar, soligor, kiron and other 3rd party lens makers. In general lens performance varies a great deal (at least from my samples), hope you score a good one. :)
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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
02-23-2019, 07:46 PM
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I had a discussion with a few photographers during a recent performance event about using hot-shoe flash on the camera, some suggested they don't like to have the 'flash' look on the photos and hence try to avoid using flash even if it means settling with high ISO and increased noise. As my interest is mainly in 'events' photography so it is important for me to use flash whenever I feel it is necessary (in complex lighting situations especially indoors). Here are the examples of what I mean (notice the front LED on the 360FZG II)... I know some of you folks here are really good on flash photography, so I like to get your thoughts and comments; and how would you do it differently.
In the example above you can see me using the on-board flash, this one below is subtle and hardly noticeable. But I want the look of photo as much as I see it (to retain the natural colour of the subjects/objects).
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Forum: Pentax K-70 & KF
02-23-2019, 08:00 PM
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very good suggestion.. I think it's a good fit for the OP.
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Forum: Photographic Technique
09-13-2013, 06:20 PM
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One more thing... if you anticipate there will be subject movement, then change the shooting mode to "continuous high" you will get a high percentage of usable shots.
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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
01-14-2019, 07:55 PM
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+1 absolutely, 100% agree. :)
I remember the first time (many years ago) I used the on-camera flash in full auto shooting mode, the shutter speed was set to default at 1/60. From that point on, I started to research on why such setting is considered the 'standard'. Later, I learned more about sync speed limit and limitation on high-speed sync flash etc. Since then I have been shooting in manual mode whenever I use flash, until later when I discovered that TAv mode actually works better in most situations. In TAv mode, we have complete control of the ambient/flash light mix, to allow more ambient light influence, one can drag the shutter, widen the aperture, use EV to control overall light at will; add that flexibility with the high-dynamic range sensor on the k-1, it is quite easy to work with lots of headroom for any user error.
As a matter of fact, when I first got the AF-360FGZ II flash, I immediately look for the sto-fen diffuser as I have used the same in my older AF-360FGZ flash (noticed that the flash head between the 2 versions are different. I did more research on the difference in the 2 flashes and learn that since version II flash has the front LED, I just discovered some comments about not needing the diffuser on the newer flash. I did more tests on the newer flash and discover that with the flash head turn straight up and front LED on, it is actually a good setup to minimize (if not complete removal) of shadow in regular portrait shooting against a background wall.
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Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
01-12-2019, 07:32 PM
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Nigel, again, thanks for sharing and opening up the discussion of flash photography as it is indeed an intriguing topic worthy of discussion and sharing. While we both share the same passion for flash photography, our focus areas and knowledge background are quite different imho. I don't usually do multi-flash setup, soft-box or flash umbrella as many other wedding photographers would do. I generally use a single hot-shoe mounted flash in most situation for weddings, events etc.
K-7: With regard to the k-7, I used to own one, it was a great camera at the time, because of the ISO performance (I think it was a Samsung sensor), I had replaced it soon with the k-5, then k-5II and then k-3, now of course the k-1. By comparison, the sensor from the k-1 is far superior than the k-7 and gives me more headroom to correct most underexposure errors. I remember that I often tried to avoid shooting past ISO 1600 on the k-7.
Pentax 360/540 II flashes: As I have stressed often times the importance of the front LED, with the flash tilted at different angle, it is a great "shadow killing" tool IMHO. In essence, the flash when fired is providing 2 separate light sources simultaneously, one frontal (LED) and one from flash head (bounced light).
No more diffuser: Also, with the use of the front LED on the flash itself, I have also stopped using any flash diffuser such as Sto-fen or similar kind. IMHO, there is no need to use it anymore. If I need to, I just use my left hand on the flash head provide a bit of angle to deflect the light and that's it.
Use of flash to remove color-cast: Another point that is often forgotten is that one can make use of the flash bring back the native color (of the costume/dress) in the image in many difficult color cast lighting situations even in a well-lit environment.
Anyway, hope others can chime in for more thoughts on this topic.
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Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
10-25-2013, 10:29 AM
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I will never buy a Lincoln Continental because their brand symbol is a coffin-and-cross ... good only for Halloween night. :D
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Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories
07-30-2018, 06:58 AM
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I have also used the third party batteries like Newmowa ones and found them to be quite good as well at a fraction of the price of original batteries.
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Forum: Pentax Price Watch
08-01-2018, 08:57 AM
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I thought McBain is one of the big camera stores in Alberta.... but the picture of the lens (DA*16-50) does not match the actual lens (DA*50-135) in description. Nonetheless, I have the DA*50-135 lens, it is one of my favourite lens for stage photography and of course, that is a great price.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
08-01-2018, 09:06 AM
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I believe this is the case where using a proper lens hood would help.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
07-25-2018, 04:23 PM
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To the OP, as mentioned I do a lot of event photography... many of the photos are taken at the back stage during live performance and/or rehearsal as well. And often times, there is not a whole lot of room to move around to take the shots of large group of people. Personally, I find the DA20-40 and K-1 combination to be a great tool to have. However, I would avoid using 20-24 focal lengths if I want to keep the original aspect ratio (3x2).. If I don't care about keeping the original 3x2 format, I can still use the wide end at 20mm and then crop the image getting rid of vignetting corners (resulting in wider aspect ratio). So, it all worked out IMHO. As in this example, I am virtually pinned in the corner at the entrance door to the stage.
With the K-1 it is also very convenient to shoot with the camera held high up (like this shot).
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
07-22-2018, 07:41 AM
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I have used the DA20-40 ltd with my k-1 for over a year now for event photography... and I am quite happy with that combination despite the crop-sensor lens design. Keeping in mind that there are some limitation (vignetting) at certain focal lengths (mostly between 20-24), but still I find the benefits (light weight, versatility, price and image quality etc.) are worth it until there is DFA version of 20-40 is available.
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
07-05-2018, 07:07 AM
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make sure the write-protected tab on the SD card is pushed UP (off) when you insert the SD card into the camera slot. An easy way to identify that is when you insert the SD card into the camera, when the camera is powered OFF, the LED light will blink a few times (that is a signal that the camera is reading the card properly).
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Forum: General Photography
03-05-2018, 07:27 PM
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Another suggestion to overcome the paranoid of taking street photos or photos of strangers is to go to automobile trade shows or street parades. You will not have any problems finding someone who is willing to pose for you. Just make sure you are ready to take the shot. :D:D
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Forum: General Photography
03-06-2018, 11:44 AM
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OP, I suppose it would make sense to keep an option of remaining a Pentax user (for good). :lol:
For me, I see no reason to switch to any brand... given that it will even be enticing for people to pick up cheap premium lenses and cameras. :D:D
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Forum: General Photography
03-05-2018, 12:12 PM
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If you find yourself having problems taking street photos, I suggest that you go to 'friendly' places like Tokyo, Japan. Here are a few shots taken when I just bought the DA 20-40 lens and took it out for a spin. Just relax and focus on your techniques and enjoy!!
This one I was trying to take a shot of the narrow street, but I waited for the group of school teens to come into the picture to make it more interesting composition wise.
Another one, while I was framing a shot, a 'no-smoking' enforcer senior just walked passed me into my view, and I took a shot of that.
Here is a couple more...
There is no secret to it... just be yourself and do it. :lol: you may also want to act like you know what you are doing. :D If someone ask you why you take the pictures, just smile and tell them you are testing your new lens. :):)
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Forum: General Photography
03-02-2018, 07:46 AM
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Congrats... Kenspo, may be at least 2 more terms.. :D:D
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