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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
03-14-2014, 09:36 AM
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Liberty Man and tax time. Each year human advertisement stands in front of a tax preparation service and is a good reminder that I need to get mine done too
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
03-08-2014, 07:21 PM
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Both of my MXs ping. Two of my three KXs ping. The KX ping is a higher note. More of a "Tang" compared to the MX's "Tong".
One of the KXs actually rings the ping out for a long moment. Its like "Ta Daaaaa! I took a picture!"
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Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands
03-21-2012, 09:32 AM
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Wow, lots of info passed by here! Congrats on the Zorki-6!
When I bought my Fed-3b I compared it to a couple of Zorkis (I don't recall which model). The Zorki view finder was spacious and open when compared to the Fed's tunnel. But at least on these samples I felt the Fed RF patch was clearer. In retrospect I wish I'd bought the Zorki, probably, as the RF wasn't that bad and I sure liked the viewfinder. These were cameras sold by a repairman at a camera show, so all were in good operational shape.
Apart from sun-pinhole in the cloth shutter, there's another thing to look out for. This happened with my Fed: the cloth itself became worn where it wraps around a roller, to the degree I got light leaks, but only when the shutter was cocked. I guess that would be the first curtain. With the shutter not cocked the second curtain was solid and covered everything.
The fix is easy: paint the curtain with some fabric paint or similar.
Overall the LTM mount is much easier to use and so on. The Contax/Kiev can be an ordeal to get any lens other than the normal one mounted. But like Steve says, I also find the Kiev mount lenses seem better than their LTM counterparts - I've read somewhere that maybe it is the cams required that are simpler in the Contax design. Who knows?
Overall, I like my Kiev better than I like my Fed, in fact I'd be happy shooting just the Kiev if I had no other cameras. But someday I'd like to try a nice Zorki... ;)
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Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands
03-19-2012, 11:07 PM
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The Zorki 6 is a cool camera. I have never seen one, but am familiar with its features. From what I remember, most owners are happy with their purchases. A few comments though:- Just because 6 is greater than 4 does not mean that the Zorki 6 is a newer or improved version of a Zorki 4. The Zorki 6 ceased its production run about the same time that the Zorki 4 hit stride. The truth is that the Zorki 5 and 6 have more in common with the FED 2 and that is not a bad thing.
- Long rangefinder base (like the FED)
- Lever wind
- Hinged back
- Semi-rotating shutter dial (like the FED)
- Limited shutter speeds (no slow speeds)
- Viewfinder diopter adjust (!)
In regards to the wind lever. Truth be told, I would not pay extra for that feature. I have the lever-wind Zorki 4K and prefer the wheel on my FED 2 and Kiev 4. The truth is that the wheel is actually pretty easy to work in the field. The only inconvenience is that you do have to take the camera way from your eye to wind, but the actual action is a half twist with the wheel with the right hand and a half twist of the body with the left. Very fast, easy, and intuitive.
Similarly, a slide-off back is also not a bad thing. Once you get the hang of it, attachment is very secure and not particularly prone to light leak. Sure beats a bottom-loader from that German brand rangefinder. Again, it may or may not be something worth paying extra for.
Now, the matter of the shutter dial. Yes, the Zorki 6 has a semi-rotating shutter* dial similar to that on the FED 2 and shutter speeds can be changed with the shutter not cocked without risk of damage. Why this is possible and how the mechanism differs from other FSU cameras is difficult to explain in writing, but obvious when you compare the two side-by-side.
All that being said, conventional wisdom is that it is good to foster the habit of always cocking before changing the shutter speed. That way, if you also have a Zorki 4 in your collection, you won't inadvertently ruin its innards.
I also have the Kiev 4A. Yes, it traces its works to the Pre-WWII Zeiss Contax and yes it ranks very high on the cool factor. Here are a few bullet points:- No viewfinder diopter adjust
- Unlike the Leica-derived horizontal-run cloth shutter of the Zorkis and FEDs, the shutter of the Kiev is a vertical-run metal slat affair. Very complex and more than a bit fiddly.
- Kiev shutter speed may be adjusted without winding first
- Solar burn pinholes are an issue with FEDs and Zorkis (Leica too), but not the Kiev or Contax. Metal is good. With those other cameras you must take care on a sunny day to NOT set your camera down facing the sun with the lens uncovered!
- The Kiev (and Contax) shutter is difficult to service. Unfortunately both have a pair of fabric ribbons that run the shutter travel and these are prone to breakage. Fortunately, replacement ribbons are available and DIY is possible if you are brave.
- Although the Kiev4 and 4A were both made into the mid-1980s, I would caution against bodies made after the mid-1970s. My first Kiev was a 4AM from about 1983 and its operation was ROUGH. I sent it back to Fedka in exchange for a 1961 4A that it much smoother. There are subtle differences to the body designs from the 1950s into the 1970s. It is good to know which changes signal known lapses in quality.
- Flash sync on the Kiev is only 1/25s
- Top speed is 1/1000s at best, not the 1/1250 marked
- Film load on the Kiev can be a bit of a challenge. I use a modified take-up spool to help hold everything in place while slipping the back on. Strangely, my FED 2 is a breeze to load compared to the Kiev.
- Lenses in Kiev mount are less expensive than the same designs in LTM. I have found that both my Jupiter-8 and Jupiter-12 are better performers in Kiev mount than in LTM. There is also the excellent Helios 103 53/1.8.
- The Kiev/Contax mount is a strange affair. The 50mm and 53mm normal lenses use a special internal bayonet that couples to a focus helicoid in the body for focus using a wheel on the top of the camera. These lenses lack their own focus helicoid. Wide angle and telephoto lenses use the "outer" bayonet and couple to the rangefinder using a separate mechanism. The outer-bayonet lenses have their own focus helicoids and are best focused using the lens barrel.
- The Kiev shutter sounds very cool
- Generally speaking, a Kiev is not a Contax. I have handled the Contax II and the German product is much smoother and the viewfinder much better. That being said, I still like my Kiev.
- I know nothing about the meters. Mine is a 4A without meter.
With any luck Jussi (Nesster) will chime in. He has owned a FED (maybe a Zorki too?) and is currently shooting with and doing excellent work with a mid-1970s Kiev 4. Rense also has FSU rangefinder experience and might have some advice.
A few parting comments:- Condition is a continuing concern. Many of these cameras have been abused. I bought my FED from some guy in central Russia. The lens was pretty much junk (improperly assembled at some point) and I had to pull the top to rebuild the rangefinder. Fedka, in New York, is a good guy and worth working with if he has the model you want. If there is a problem, he will fix or replace until you are happy.
- Light leaks are possible
- Don't trust the leather straps on the old cases. Cut them off, throw them away, and replace with Domke straps attached to the body.
- The tripod socket is often the larger 3/8 rather than 1/4-20 thread. Most available adapters are too tall.
- There are a two different thread pitches for 40.5 on the FSU lenses. Heck if I know which lenses have which. Take care when fitting a new hood or filters.
Steve
P.S. I just noticed that Fedka has a Kiev IIA with Jupiter-8...that would be a true Contax-copy.
*...I just coined that term. What it means is that the dial itself turns relative to a central axle to adjust with the axle remaining stationary. When cocking and on shutter release, both rotate together. With the other Zorki models, the shutter dial is firmly swedged onto its axle and both turn together for adjustment and during the shutter cycle.
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Forum: Photographic Technique
02-10-2012, 05:46 PM
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The output of the light from the snoot is concentrated and as you noted like a spot light. His settings were:
1/200
f13
ISO100
Use "M" mode @ 1/160, ISO100 and tighten/stop down your aperture until you get that effect (all while not worrying about metering)...
BTW: The same (well, near the same) effect can be done with a small cone diffuser and a powerful flash...
EDIT: Also, it is somewhat critical that the light be directly to the side of the subject, any stray light that hits anywhere else in the frame will also show that in the comp...
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Forum: Pentax K-01
02-04-2012, 01:14 AM
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Something you can challenge other camera users to do with their camera and surely WIN with the K-01 :D
Attention!
Right hand stand
Left hand stand
Head stand
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
09-17-2010, 04:50 AM
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Are you looking for a C-41 process alternative to BW400CN, or are you looking for a silver based film? If the former, I can't help with a recommendation. If the latter, then you can't get much more classic than Kodak Tri-X. IMO, if you develop the film yourself, you'll find the whole process more rewarding. I've just got back into film myself, and based on information from some other sites, I ordered a bunch of Arista Premium 400, which by all accounts is re-branded Tri-X. A lot of different B&W films and chemistry can be ordered at good prices from Freestyle Photographic Supplies - Traditional Black & White Film, Paper, Chemicals, Holgas and ULF.
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Forum: Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Other Camera Brands
09-09-2010, 07:37 AM
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Here are your answers:- The camera and lens are M42 mount
- The M on the lens indicates auto-aperture
- The MC on the lens indicates multi-coated
- The series numbers on Russian lenses are not a reliable indication of improvements or newness. The 44M-6, however, is one of the newer designs and is reported to have somewhat better optical performance that other Helios 44 variants.
- To use the Helios 44M-6 on your K-mount cameras, you will need an adapter (duh) and you will also need to alter the lens such that the silver aperture-actuator pin is always in the depressed position. There are a couple of threads here on PF describing how to do this.
- Adapted M42 lenses always meter in stop-down mode on K-mount cameras. Depending on camera model, this may be done in Av or M modes.
- The camera and lens for this listing, while described as new, were both made in 1991. The first two digits of the serial number are the year of manufacture.
Finally:- The photos supplied for eBay items should be used with caution when determining the condition of an item. Often times the sellers use stock photos or reuse the same photo for multiple similar items. This is particularly true for vendors of FSU and Russian cameras and lenses.
Steve
P.S. For what it is worth, I would stick with your 122K and 44K combo if it were me...
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