|
Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
10-10-2018, 07:17 AM
|
| |
Agreed...Pentax doesn't need to produce a new camera every six months...These are not disposable toys like other manufacturers. My buddy used a Canon EOS and when he grabbed my K-3ii to borrow, he was amazed at the solidity quality and price point.
When I bought my K-1 ii, he offered to buy my K-3ii--for $650.00 !!! A great camera isn't obsolete simply because it's 2 years old--quality snapshots can be made by a 100 year old RolleiFlex. If you, the photographer, are in sync with the camera, why worry about "new' tech when you are pleased with the images you're creating...Also, the K-3ii was designed to go over 200,000 shots--maybe Ricoh had that in mind when they produced it.
Remember -- "Love the One You're With", especially if he/she is making you happy.
|
|
Forum: Mini-Challenges, Games, and Photo Stories
08-24-2017, 09:52 AM
|
| |
I was at lake Minitare outside of Scottsbluff (having driven from near Denver). My setup was a K50 with the 55-300 WR PLM on a decent Manfrotto tripod. I thought for the set-up I used the results are pretty good.
3 pics: Baily's beads, some solar prominence's and a big 'ol solar corona. I have enough images at different exposures that I'd love to attempt to try a stacked image with the flares and full corona taken at different exposures, but I doubt I'll have the time anytime in the near future.
|
|
Forum: Mini-Challenges, Games, and Photo Stories
08-23-2017, 07:56 AM
|
| |
I had trouble taking my eyes off the sky and releasing the shutter! But I did get 42 in a couple of manual settings, all in +/- 2 EV brackets of 5 shots each. The last two are shaky as I bumped the tripod trying to get the lens cap back on! I include them just because I was so amazed that so much detail remained as the sun's surface reappeared in the "diamond ring" effect. The 150-450 is a really nice lens...
Shot with a K3 II and the 150-450 at 450mm. This was in Easley, SC, at the Taco Bell! No processing at all other than cropping. I plan to combine the brackets at some point, but I was pretty happy with the individuals...
 IMGP2212 (2) by Michael Stevenson, on Flickr
 IMGP2216 (2) by Michael Stevenson, on Flickr
 IMGP2218 (2) by Michael Stevenson, on Flickr
 IMGP2219 (2) by Michael Stevenson, on Flickr
|
|
Forum: Mini-Challenges, Games, and Photo Stories
08-23-2017, 09:55 AM
|
| |
Here's an overall shot of the totality. This was taken with my little OMD EM10 and Samyang 7.5mm Fisheye lens (a VERY wide lens).
You can see the 360 degree sunset that surrounded the eclipse.
 2017 Eclipse Super Wide by Andrew Marjama, on Flickr
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2
03-05-2015, 08:49 AM
|
| |
Called their german support hotline.
|
|
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
02-21-2015, 02:33 PM
|
| |
| |
|
Forum: Pentax K-3 & K-3 II
03-03-2014, 03:36 AM
|
| |
My first tip would be to not make your noise assessments based on looking at your images (a) at 100% on the screen of your computer or (b) viewed on the rear LCD of the K-3. Both of those will produce an impression of high noise in K-3 images that will not match your experience in practical use of the camera - for web use, for print etc.
My general tips for low-light high-ISO in LR or other tools would be to:
- expose correctly for the type of shooting you need to do, using matrix/centre/spot as appropriate too. Often there is no need to meter the whole scene the same way;
- don't over-sharpen (related: use the sharpening mask),
- never go crazy with luminance smoothing,
- crush the blacks a bit in post-processing :),
- at very, very high ISO, where the IQ seriously starts to fall away, boost contrast, clarity and vibrance a tad, reduce saturation a notch, boost midtones;
- switch to monochrome.
|
|
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
03-01-2015, 05:44 PM
|
| |
I feel bad too, thinking I could have gotten so much more detail out of this picture with a Nikon or a Canon (K3+ Sigma Ex 50mm f1.4)
 |
|
Forum: Lens Clubs
03-01-2015, 02:43 PM
|
| |
Good question. On highly reflective surfaces such as plated firearms, my technique is to shoot from a slight angle, outdoors in the open shade. If you shoot straight down, you will almost always pick up reflections of the camera and/or tripod. With angled shots in the open, at most you'll pick up a reflection of the sky or clouds, both of which are inconsequential. It helps to take a few test shots to be sure nothing else is reflected. I mount the camera on a tripod, at a distance in which the subject fills about half the frame in the center, to avoid any chance of minor distortion and to minimize chromatic aberration. When a tripod is used, I turn off the shake reduction. On the product shots I use the 2-second timer to eliminate vibration from the mirror retraction, and consistently use f/8, which I believe is this lens's "sweet spot" for sharpness. I use the full manual mode, and adjust the exposure time by bracketing in 1/3-stop increments. I also focus manually. After picking the shot that's closest to what I want, any minor adjustments and cropping will be made in post - I use Photoshop Elements 10 for this.
John
|
|
Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
02-27-2015, 07:22 AM
|
| |
I had the idea of buying a KS2 but finally opted for the K3 after seriously comparing the specs I also got the Flucard so I can do remote control. Got the K3 for $20. more than the KS2 and it's a much better camera. I love it.
|
|
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
02-25-2015, 08:13 PM
|
| |
I'm using M ratio - and really love it. I use it to trigger my big Auto flash using a Wein HS optical slave. Both flashes can use a card flash modifier that directs light softly, or even with some ceiling bounce (not so much with the on-board, of course). The modifier for the on-board is a Joe Demb DeLuxe Pop-It - great device. As mentioned the M ratio can go down to 1/128 (contributing practically no light) - yet will trigger the external flash held off camera (with optical slave). A lot of great light shaping is the result - the variety is nearly unlimited (especially so if you have a nice white ceiling available within 10 feet).
Best of all, you get instant trigger. No pTTL delay, no pre-flash problems, no blinkies, no extra radio batteries or channel settings to worry about. A dream for all strobists. Totally KiSS.
|
|
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
02-25-2015, 11:08 AM
|
| |
If it's like the K-S1, it lets you manually change the power level on the flash from FULL to 1/2, 1/4... down to 1/128, like the all-manual flashes. I haven't used it much yet, but I like it better than the -2.0 to +1.0 control for output levels. It's such a traditional way to control flash output, I'm kind of surprised Pentax didn't do it before.
|
|
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
02-24-2015, 08:37 PM
|
| |
If you're into macros, the K-S1/2 and K3 have focus peaking, the otherwise excellent K-5IIs doesn't.
|
|
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
02-19-2015, 09:53 AM
|
| |
If the sensor is the same as the K-S1, you will have to get used to a little more noise in high ISO shots. It's "luminance" noise instead of false color, so it's easy to clean up, but it's different from the "Sweet 16" sensor. You should also start planning to buy a bigger hard drive...
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-S1 & K-S2
02-26-2015, 09:02 PM
|
| |
Would be good if the K-S2 could be packaged with the DA 16-85. It is ridiculously expensive at present, but so was the DA 18-135 when it first came out.
|
|
Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
02-21-2015, 07:07 AM
|
| |
No, CaNikon is recommended because Canon has by far the best AF system that makes it the first choice for any sports and action oriented shooter and Nikon offers great sensors with impressive dynamic range for landscape photography, plus a better AF system than Pentax still - plus both offer some amazing glass.
Portraying everyone who buys Canon or Nikon as simple sheep and us Pentaxians as different and so much more knowledgable is equally as ridiculous as the Pentax bashing by CaNikon users.
|
