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Forum: Photographic Technique
09-29-2010, 03:02 PM
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Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom
09-17-2010, 04:16 PM
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If you really want to get a manual, OmegaBrandess is the distributor of Saunders/LPL equipment, and the D6700 is still listed as a current product. Maybe they can help you out.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
09-17-2010, 04:50 AM
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Are you looking for a C-41 process alternative to BW400CN, or are you looking for a silver based film? If the former, I can't help with a recommendation. If the latter, then you can't get much more classic than Kodak Tri-X. IMO, if you develop the film yourself, you'll find the whole process more rewarding. I've just got back into film myself, and based on information from some other sites, I ordered a bunch of Arista Premium 400, which by all accounts is re-branded Tri-X. A lot of different B&W films and chemistry can be ordered at good prices from Freestyle Photographic Supplies - Traditional Black & White Film, Paper, Chemicals, Holgas and ULF.
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Forum: Photographic Technique
09-10-2010, 10:39 AM
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I always shoot RAW, especially at concerts. There's so much rescuing that can be done in post that can't be done with JPEGs. That being said, I just use AWB (since I can easily tweak it later), and I find underexposing a little helps. That's my approach to an electric "rock" show, with dynamic lighting. An acoustic show, with only occasional coloured spots, I might try a custom WB when only neutral lights are on, and let the colored spots do their thing.
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Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories
09-08-2010, 05:13 PM
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Agreed. I'll choose any other delivery method including dog sled and pony express before the Untraceable Parcel Service, and I long ago decided to not do business with retailers that only use UPS.
It's a wonder (to me) that UPS is still in business.
Has the plate shown up yet?
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Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
09-07-2010, 05:08 PM
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I think most (all?) RAW editors have the ability to batch change at least basic settings. I had to do this very thing (WB adjustment), just a couple of weeks ago. I use Aperture, and if you right click on an image that you've worked on in the main viewer, or its thumbnail in the tray at the bottom of the screen, one of the options is "Lift Adjustments". If you choose that, a HUD pops up that allows you to select/deselect the adjustments you want to apply to other images. Then you'd select all the images you want to apply the changes to, right click on one of them, and select "Stamp Adjustments" from the contextual menu. Please note these are the steps and terminology for Aperture. Your mileage and workflow may vary.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
08-31-2010, 01:51 PM
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Sadly, the only place for us Canadians to reliably get good prices are from US dealers or eBay. I got a Sigma 105 EX Macro from KEH earlier this year for $265, and it looked like it had hardly been used. Note that this is the older version, not the DG.
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Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories
08-30-2010, 05:06 PM
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For years and years (not the case anymore), Bogen marketed Manfrotto equipment under the Bogen name ("Before Lester Bogen puts his name on a tripod, he puts Lester Bogen on a tripod"), so a lot of US photographers (not saying this is the case with you Ira), think that Manfrotto is 2nd tier equipment with spotty distribution. When I worked in retail my colleagues and I came up with a cross reference guide, so that when US shooters would call or come into the store looking for a Bogen xxxx, we could figure out the Manfrotto part number. Anyway, if you've got a half decent brick and mortar store in your area, you should be able to find Manfrotto gear.
Glad I was able to help.
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Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories
08-30-2010, 02:23 PM
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No worries. Just be sure you get the 200PL-14. The 200PL-38 is the exact same plate (so it will fit in your 128RC), but has a 3/8" screw.
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Forum: Pentax Camera and Field Accessories
08-30-2010, 12:00 PM
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I don't own either of those pieces, but assuming fresh batteries, you can try cleaning the electrical contacts on the body and the winder. A pencil eraser works well. Is there excessive play between the body and winder? Have you noticed if it happens more often in portrait or landscape mode, or is it truly random? Just wondering if there might be something loose internally on the winder.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
08-30-2010, 07:14 AM
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In my view, the real issue with longevity of mechanical objects, (cameras, cars, clocks etc), is whether or not parts can be made or adapted from other things. I once had the shutter of a 1947 Kodak large format lens serviced, and the tech told me they re-purposed a couple of parts from a Bronica mirror assembly. As long as we have smart and inventive repair people, we'll be able to get our mechanical cameras serviced.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
08-25-2010, 06:12 PM
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séamuis!! The video was brilliant! Thanks so much. Thanks also to Sluggo and Wheatfield who pointed me in the right direction, but the video you uploaded was the icing on this cake of knowledge. It took 2 tries to get the bend in the lower contact right, but everything seems to be OK now.
Thanks to all who replied. It was a great help and a great education. Now I get to use my camera. I've already fallen in love with the viewfinder. :)
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
08-25-2010, 05:32 PM
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So I wasn't able to fit the 2nd piece of yellow tubing between the lower contact plate and the arm attached to the shutter release with everything in place, but to test my theory, I slid a piece of thin cardboard between the contacts. As I thought, the meter doesn't work. So I'm going to go ahead (as soon as I can buy some suitable adhesive), and pull out the meter switch as much as I can, attach the tube to the lower plate, reassemble everything and see how it goes.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
08-25-2010, 02:40 PM
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Paul, the meter should absolutely shut off when you're not touching the shutter release. On the MX, the exposure is indicated with LEDs, and if the meter is on 24/7, a couple of 1.5V alkalines don't last long.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
08-25-2010, 06:35 AM
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Thanks Sluggo. When I press the shutter release, things happen around the contacts, but nothing seems to touch them. When I get home tonight I'll try to shoot a video to illustrate what is and isn't happening.
Edit: Just looking at the pic I posted, I'm wondering if the other piece of rubber tubbing is supposed to be attached to the lower contact, so that when the shutter release is "at rest", it pushes the contact down away from the upper contact, opening the circuit. Note that when I say "Up" or "Down" it's in reference to the orientation of the pic in my post above, which is of course upside down.
Anyway, I'll try that piece of tubing for fit when I get home. If it looks to do what I think it will, the next step will be to epoxy it in place and home it stays.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
08-25-2010, 04:58 AM
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Sluggo, is this the switch in question? When I press the shutter release, the yellow tube moves straight up and makes no contact with the plate to the right. What am I bending, and in which direction? I should mention that when I originally took off the bottom plate, another piece of the yellow tubing fell out, and I still have it, though I can't see where it might go.
Thanks all.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
08-25-2010, 03:59 AM
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Thanks Wieland. I was pretty sure that I had the shutter lock on yesterday, but I just tried it again and no dice. The meter stays on.
I got an email from the seller last night apologizing, and offering a full or partial refund. I'd like to keep the camera, so I'm leaning toward a partial refund, running a roll through it and then sending it to Eric.
Thoughts?
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
08-24-2010, 05:32 PM
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Thank you both.
Wheatfield, that is encouraging. I can't make any sense of the service manual. I searched it for "meter", and the information is regarding calibration and presupposes access to tools to do so. Also, the SM doesn't have a lot in the way of diagrams, so I'm wondering if they're might be a separate repair manual. I took the bottom plate off and there are no obvious signs of a short or anything else amiss. To take the top plate off it looks like I'd need a small spanner to remove the film advance lever first. I kind of suspect the problem lie in the top of the camera, as the film advance acts as the master on switch for the meter.
I've emailed the seller about this. Maybe he has some ideas. It's especially sad because the meter agrees pretty well with my K10D, so it's well within the "Close enough for Tri-X" range.
And if anybody else has any thoughts, I'm all ears.
Thanks again.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
08-24-2010, 01:45 PM
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I did a forum search and didn't find anything related to this, so I'm hoping to find some guidance. I bought an MX off eBay, and it arrived last night. The meter showed no life, which surprised me since the seller said the batteries included were fresh. I put in a fresh set today, and it looks like the meter doesn't turn off. I put the camera down with the advance lever parked in the off position, and 20 minutes later the meter was still on. This explains why the batteries installed by the seller were dead after 7 days of shipping. I have the service manual at home, and I'll take a look at that tonight, but has anybody else had an MX similarly afflicted? Were you able to fix it yourself? Or is this a "Send it to Eric" situation?
Thanks.
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
08-17-2010, 06:29 PM
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I really prefer to shoot with primes, but I bought both the 18-55 WR and the 50-200 WR because of the sealing. If it's not raining or snowing, at the wide end I'll reach for the 21 Limited or DA 16-45. The 18-55 WR isn't as good (but my copy is in no way bad), as either of the above, but I have stood in snowstorms and torrential rain with it mounted on my K10D happily shooting away. I guess what I'm trying to say is that I'd rather be able to make a picture than no picture at all. Not risking your 17-70 is a sound long term strategy.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
08-15-2010, 12:11 PM
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Phil, thanks again. I used to shoot Scala in medium format and loved it. Not very forgiving using it for portraits though!
I've been reading some threads on photo.net, and it seems to be accepted there that Arista Premium 100 and 400 are re-badged Plus-X and Tri-X respectively. Having started 30 years ago with Tri-X in D76, I think I'll start off trying those, but as I get older and appreciate convenience more and more, I'll likely develop it in XTOL 1:1. Room temperature mixing, what a great idea.
As to the cat issue, I think I've got that solved. I'm going to string a line across the ceiling in the shower. I hang the film to dry, close the door, instant film drying cabinet. Might even put a small fan in there. And kitty will have to content himself with his other toys. :)
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
08-15-2010, 10:58 AM
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Phil, thanks for the link. I'll probably order from Freestyle when/if I get set up to process b+w at home. Really just have to figure out how to keep the cat from considering the hanging film a toy!
Further on the subject of film, back in the day I was using Agfapan in Rodinal for all my b+w work. Agfa is gone now, but I'm seeing names I'd never heard of before like Adox, Arista, Efke and Foma. Anyone have experience with any of those?
Thanks.
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Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
08-15-2010, 07:57 AM
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So it looks like I'll be setting aside some film storage space in the fridge, and buying in bulk from the US. And thanks to Steinback, keeping an eye open for deals when I'm in a Shoppers or Loblaws.
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