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Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
04-06-2008, 06:49 PM
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I wanted to thank ve2vfd and newmikey, their recommendations just helped me immensely. I'd suggest this thread get made a sticky to the top of the forum...
Boss's boss's kid took some pictures on a camera, deleted them (very young) and then took a couple more photos... It was mentioned I might be able to do something, but my first Google searches came up with nothing but cripple-ware (hold your data hostage 'till you pay) crap--worse, most of it was 2+ years old.
(After a good reminder that a 4GB SDHC card will not show up in an older reader...) I ran both PhotoRec and Zero Assumption (NOT at same time, obv.) on the card. I have no way of knowing how many files used to be on the card.
PhotoRec did a better job but is more for technical people--it asks a lot of questions about things like filesystems and is fairly user unfriendly (clearly came from Linux community) but the next version may be a little more automated (I used v6.9). But if you know the right answers it works great! Recovered 62 files, about 450MB of data... now this is from a point and shoot camera, you may wonder at the average size of the files there... that's because many of the files were .asf (or something) movie files, which it also recovered just fine! PhotoRec specializes in understanding and restoring all kinds of native camera formats, so if you're trying to recover your camera's version of RAW files (or movies) it is the one to use.
Zero Assumption Digital Image Recovery is *a lot* easier to use, but just didn't do as good a job. It found 39 files, some of which were movie files but it recovered them as .jpg files showing only the first frame (even when the file was huge). This app is better suited to recovering a card with just .jpg files from a simple point and shoot.
So if you have corruption, deletion or accidental format I highly recommend both these tools. But it's worth noting they're worthless if the computer can't mount the card at all.
Thanks again!
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
08-31-2007, 01:52 PM
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Isn't there something about doing an optical (/DOF) preview which lets it properly meter?
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Forum: Pentax DSLR Discussion
08-31-2007, 10:58 AM
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Also, you can tell the camera to allow a photo when it can't read the lenses' aperature, it's in the menus...
But it shouldn't be happening, so check the contacts and that the aperature ring on the lens is in A first, like m8o said...
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Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
08-30-2007, 04:56 PM
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I've got a DA* 16-50 on order through buy.com (hard to find on their site but a pretty good price... if it ever shows up). In the meantime I wanted a 100-300 to match my powerzoom 28-100 I got with my PZ1p. Even if I also get the 50-135 DA* my hope is that the 100-300 will still be good enough for higher zoom stuff...
Does this sound reasonable or would I be better off with a new off-brand lens?
The 100-300 doesn't have to be powerzoom (would prefer not). I saw one on B&H used for $99, tried for one in great condition on eBay but it went over $200... what's reasonable to pay?
What is a good source for used Pentax stuff? I tried the big camera stores in my area, Samy's in Hollywood is impressive and they had a ton of 645 stuff... but their Pentax 35mm used selection was miniscule...
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Forum: Photographic Technique
08-28-2007, 12:44 PM
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Just got my K10D, so far using it with my old 28-105 powerzoom (and I thought the powerzoom features were worthless *before*...). Anyway, I've been fairly impressed with the zoom range at the long end with the 1.5X crop, so I'm considering trying to get a matching 100-300 I'd always wanted (hopefully without powerzoom...).
The lunar eclipse (yawn) got me thinking, what does it take to safely take solar photos? 450mm (300 w/crop) should be a pretty good range, right? But what do I have to shoot through to not burn out my eyes or the optics?
Are there special filters just for shooting the sun, and do they also apply to solar eclipses, if I'm ever lucky enough to be able to shoot a total one? Or do I just need a lot of ND in front of the lens...? Would two circular polarizers rotated for maximum darkness be enough?
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