|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
01-03-2014, 06:01 AM
|
| |
Both have their place. Sometimes having the viewfinder info is helpful. Sometimes I just want to see what I'm shooting. I enjoy simplicity.
|
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
05-17-2012, 09:50 AM
|
| |
Hopefully a light leak. Could also potentially be a sticky or slow curtain issue. Check the light seals first. If they're gone or gummy and just falling apart, send and email to Jon Goodman (formerly "Interslice" on eBay) at jgood21967@aol.com and ask him for a K1000 light seal kit. He still sells dozen's of light seal kits for various camera models for $10-$15 each and they always fit perfectly.
If it turns out to be a mechanical issue with the camera, you can send it to Eric at Home for CLA or repair.
|
|
Forum: Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom
02-26-2012, 08:02 PM
|
| |
Most silver/color devs smell a bit, but fixer (and bleach for color processing) will probably always have a strong smell. Ventilation is extremely important in any darkroom. I do B&W, C41, E6 and Super 8 reversal processing in my home darkroom. C41 is still cheaper to have processed at a lab. E6 (color slide) film processing with Freestyle's Arista kit is cheaper than my local lab when doing more than four rolls at a time.
Some of my friends recommend thedarkroom.com for 127.
FYI, the last Kodachrome (RIP) film was processed to color by Dwaynes on 12/31/11. It can be dev'd to black & white, but the rem jet (carbon black) backing is a pain to remove, it's yellow filter layer makes it tricky to optically print and the process is still somewhat experimental. Getting good exposure and contrast is tricky.
Good luck if you decide to get into home processing, I love it.
|
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
02-21-2011, 02:16 PM
|
| |
Split-prism viewfinder black out physics are discussed with links in this thread:
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-film-slr-discussion/78057-prism-blackout-why.html
http://dougkerr.net/Pumpkin/articles/Split_Prism.pdf
My understanding is that split-viewfinders and prism cut focusing screens gather light from wider fields of view. Since longer lenses and smaller apertures decrease the field of view, the prisms end up looking at the inside of the lens.
Moving your eye around in relation to the viewfinder may help to some degree prior to reaching the hard black-out point with any particular lens. But physics is the law and there's not really any way around it.
If you have a good zoom lens you can focus at it's minimum zoom and then ramp it up to to frame size desired for that particular shot's composition.
|
|
Forum: Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras
01-30-2011, 05:05 PM
|
| |
Nice acquisition! If I didn't already have a complete filter kit I'd be tempted to make you an offer. If you're going to include the Ilford filters, make sure potential buyers know those are for enlargers, not cameras.
Check the foam lights seals around the back of the cam (where the edges of the door fit into the camera, on the hinge side of the body and the outside corners of the door itself) as well as the foam mirror damper. If those are missing, sticky or crumbling (which most original seals will be) that'll cost $10 (for the eBay interslice kits) to fix. Easy repair, I've done a bunch.
Locally (NW Florida) these cameras with a stock 50mm lens have been going for about $80. The 50mm lenses themselves, possibly $30-$50. But of course different cities have different markets. If you're in a more upscale neighborhood, $100-$150 for the cameras might sell.
In my local Goodwill and charity thrift stores I've seen many of these cameras go for $15-$30 without a lens...location, location, location!
Good luck!
|
