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Forum: Pentax Medium Format 12-31-2016, 09:34 AM  
645z versus X1D
Posted By Royce Howland
Replies: 41
Views: 9,131
Great report Carsten, thanks very much for posting this info! I have been waiting to get my hands on an X1D, and would be interested in it for a similar type of work that you describe. My interest in the camera has cooled off somewhat since Hasselblad has not really executed the product launch very well, nor have they communicated very well with the customers who made early orders based on the original and (and several times revised) ship dates. From your description, even though the camera apparently is finally available in very limited quantities, I have to say the product sounds like it still is not feature complete. Even when it is complete it will still lack some performance factors that we've grown accustomed to especially with the 645Z. But that's not surprising for something this new in its design and intent.

Still, the Hasselblad X1D would have some advantages if it will work well enough. I'm specifically interested in something smaller and lighter for travel and general use, while still having at least equivalent image quality that I expect from my 645Z. Although the poor AF and shooting performance of the X1D might mitigate against that purpose, to some extent. I'm also highly interested whether Hasselblad will support the HTS tilt-shift adapter with their H series wide angle lenses on the X1D. If they do, this alone would convince me to get the camera for architectural work.

Thanks again for your field report...
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 01-08-2019, 09:01 AM  
News on the Pentax 645 front---Japanese magazine interview
Posted By Royce Howland
Replies: 19
Views: 6,104
I am hopeful for the continued development of the Pentax 645 digital system, and (in vendor marketing speak) have no plans to abandon my 645Z. Whether Ricoh does or doesn't advance, or how fast, isn't particularly worrisome to me for now. In part it's because I'm relatively satisfied with what I've got, in terms of what I can do with the 645Z in the areas where it excels. Also in part it's because I recently sold off a bunch of superfluous pieces of my kit to make room in the budget for a Fuji GFX-50R, and will look very closely at the GFX-100S when it arrives. I would like to do a few things that my 645Z isn't best suited for at the moment, much of it related to equipment size & weight, lens options, and shutter shock.

For 8 years the Pentax 645 has been my go-to system, and I really don't like maintaining 2 systems. But incorporating the Fuji GFX series for its strong suits will round out what I can do while we wait to see where Ricoh will go with the 645 line.

Full frame 645 would keep me with Pentax for sure, though I don't know if they'll ever go there. Fuji almost certainly will not.
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 12-09-2017, 09:31 AM  
Focus stacking
Posted By Royce Howland
Replies: 14
Views: 2,491
I personally use Zerene Stacker. It's not free but it is cost effective, and produces very, very good results even on full automatic. I evaluated both Zerene and Helicon Focus back in the day, and liked the results I can get with Zerene with less post-stack cleanup work. A caveat is that I don't do closeup work. I'm doing bigger tripod mounted scenes where I need to stack between 2 - 4 frames to get the depth of field I want for creative reasons, at the lens aperture I want to shoot for optical clarity reasons. Zerene's results with my 645D and 645Z files are excellent.
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 06-22-2017, 07:25 AM  
New 645 lenses
Posted By Royce Howland
Replies: 16
Views: 2,601
I use zooms on my Z constantly. I own a ton of 645 and 67 lenses from all eras of Pentax glass, primes and zooms alike, and enjoy many things about all of them. But my go-to kit is my FA zoom trio including the 45-85mm, the 80-160mm and the 150-300mm.

If Pentax updated these lenses to stabilized, weather-sealed versions with the optical performance of the 90mm Macro (which I don't own, because I don't use that focal length heavily enough to currently justify that level of expense for a single focal length) or new 28-45mm (which I do own), I would get them all...
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 06-01-2017, 07:57 PM  
Remote Shutter Release for Z
Posted By Royce Howland
Replies: 11
Views: 2,180
The Pentax wired remote release should work fine on the Z. Check the plastic moulding on the jack, though, to make sure it's not impeding the jack from seating fully into the socket. I did have one wired remote where I needed to shave away a bit of plastic.

If that's not it, then you might need to determine whether yours is working intermittently because the cable release socket on your Z is broken. Quite a number of us have had that issue with our Z's, it seems to be a design defect of the camera. Most of us have had to resort to using the IR wireless remote instead. I don't like the IR remote exactly for the reasons you describe. My Z's socket broke within weeks of owning the camera. I sent it in for repair (took 10 weeks), and then within 3 months the socket broke again. So now I live with the IR release even though I really dislike it...
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 03-08-2017, 07:02 AM  
Fuji GFX useage compared to 645Z
Posted By Royce Howland
Replies: 48
Views: 9,025
Good thoughts. I'm sure some will have a different take, but your view is similar to my own.

Personally, I'm still amazed at how all-around good even my 645D's feel (and are) when I pull them out to use them. And of course my Z, which built on that and added most of what we'd expect from a modern CMOS-based camera. They just feel and act like really well thought out, enjoyable, highly shootable work horses. I have been wanting a small companion camera with equivalent image quality but much lighter weight & more compact, and ideally bringing along some option for lens movements via something like the Hasselblad HTS. I still might end up with either an X1D or a GFX. But having played with both of them for a bit, neither one of them screamed "I must have this camera right now!" :) But that's exactly what the 645D did to me when I tried my first one a few years back, and I still feel that way today, in particular about the Z.

So I withdrew the order I had placed for an X1D, and refrained from placing one for a GFX. I'm going to wait and see. Maybe one or the other of these cameras will grow on me... especially if I become convinced the HTS will work well with either one. But right now what I really want is to keep shooting my Pentaxes. I'm going to order the 28-45mm that I've been holding off on, because I see that for me it makes sense to continue investing in the Pentax 645 system, rather than starting into either one of the other systems at this point.

What I hope is that both of the new mirrorless cameras do well in the marketplace to add more vitality to this segment, and that Pentax responds by pressing forward with their own innovations on a perhaps more lively schedule. Hasselblad may be in trouble, so who knows what will happen with them. But Fuji should have the chops to push things forward fairly aggressively.
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 01-01-2017, 12:49 PM  
645z versus X1D
Posted By Royce Howland
Replies: 41
Views: 9,131
Carsten, I use a heavy Velbon CF Sherpa Pro tripod with a BH-55 ballhead from Really Right Stuff. I also have the RRS long lens support rail. Plus various bean bags and so on for additional damping. There are probably some things I could do yet to improve stability of the overall platform, such as a heavier tripod with no movable centre column, and a heavier head. But for now I just have a range of shutter speeds that I stay away from with longer lenses. I can go slower or faster for single shots and escape the danger zone. For auto bracketed series with multiple shutter actuations, which I do a lot, sometimes all I can do is boost the ISO way up.
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 06-27-2016, 09:27 AM  
645z - do I need a backup?
Posted By Royce Howland
Replies: 32
Views: 4,208
I can easily believe the results of pixel-shifting, at its best, rival the current state of ~50MP crop-645 capture. The idea of super-resolution has been around for awhile. Aside from the few cameras supporting sensor pixel-shift, super-resolution has been mostly a multi-frame technique blending multiple shots with desktop software. Putting it in the camera is simply an extension of the technique that can also take advantage of in-camera reduction of de-mosaicing issues. A Foveon type result working around the Bayer array, if you will. I don't think there's any doubt that Foveon images can be enlarged beyond the level possible with Bayer images, and enjoy greater tonal and colour resolution than Bayer images.

Unfortunately, super-resolution suffers from the same limitations as do other multi-frame techniques like stitching, depth of field frame stacking, and HDR -- for best results it requires largely static scenes. And there's always potential manual frame blending & retouching work to fix stuff the software couldn't handle automatically.

I prefer the look of the larger sensor & optical platform of 645. (And would shoot even larger if it was feasible to do so in digital, in a cost-effective way.) But if & when super-resolution comes to 645, I'll happily use it in the situations where it can work. Same as I do with stitching, DOF stacking and HDR, all of which I employ when needed to augment the camera's limits.

It remains that, for my purposes, a K1 (or virtually any other 35mm system) still wouldn't be close enough to my 645Z in enough circumstances to be considered a "backup". For me, a backup system is one that lets me keep doing my main work, how & for the purposes I want to do it, if a primary piece of kit goes down. For me that means my current benchmark is a 645 digital system. Of course others will make that trade-off decision differently. Which is why these threads usually are challenged in providing "answers" to an OP... it's all subjective. What's right for one person is useless for another. Mainly we can share what we've personally chosen & why, and perhaps the OP can glean some decision criteria from that... :)
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 06-26-2016, 08:35 AM  
New Hassie Medium Format announced where next for Pentax 645Z and successor
Posted By Royce Howland
Replies: 49
Views: 7,314
I hope Pentax is working on something like this because I think it's a legitimate direction. It's interesting enough to me that I've put my name down to get a crack at an X1D at my local dealer as soon as they have them available. I dearly love using my Pentax digital 645 system, and there are very few things about it that really bug me. But there's no getting away from the fact that it's a large, heavy bunch of kit. Something that can maintain the image-making quality from the same sensor platform in a smaller, lighter, more maneuverable package would have a lot of appeal for me.

The X1D looks well-enough spec'ed to me, especially for a "first in category" product. Heck, the 645D was quite primitive in comparison. Sure there will be certain limitations, and the armchair designers of the internet will rage about "why didn't they do this or that", just as happened with the 645D and even the hugely improved 645Z. But if Hasselblad's execution is there, I wouldn't refuse to get one just because it's not a Pentax... I'd be quite tempted, even just sticking within the limitations of the Hasselblad ecosystem. If electronic focal plane shutter could be supported in the body and adapters for alternative glass made it conceivable to use a range of the Pentax glass, then it would be become a virtual no-brainer for me.

I always felt the Pentax digital 645 system -- especially the 645Z -- would have to produce responses from other manufacturers. Just like Canon's original 5D in the 35mm range, Pentax made too compelling a price-performance story for others not to want a piece of that action. Here's the first real response from another manufacturer. Well played, Hasselblad. Now let's get ahold of the camera and see how it really works.

After that, who's next? Fuji is highly likely. Pentax, hopefully. It's going to be interesting... :)
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 05-24-2016, 07:50 AM  
Cable release socket failure
Posted By Royce Howland
Replies: 14
Views: 1,843
Repeated use definitely seems to weaken the 645Z cable socket's connection inside the body, I would say from my experience. I shoot in a lot of inclement weather and do a lot of mixed hand-held & tripod work. So normally I would prefer to remove the cable and seal up the socket when I don't need or want the cable attached. But if I get my socket fixed again, perhaps leaving the cable semi-permanently attached under a layer of electrical tape or similar would be workable.

I still would be concerned about the location making the cable plug more prone to taking strikes in the field or during transport, since it's a very exposed position on the 645Z. The socket on the 645D was better located in my opinion, and in many hundreds of cable insertions & removals it was rock solid. So I think on the Z the socket was a less well thought-through design...
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 02-08-2016, 02:23 PM  
645D Sticky Mirror/Shutter going?
Posted By Royce Howland
Replies: 4
Views: 1,478
Search the forum and you'll find a number of comments from me and a couple of other folks on 645D shutter / mirror assembly failures. What you describe sounds familiar to me, and I'd say your camera will be heading for repair soon. It most likely will go to Japan since there's nowhere else that can make this level of repair as far as I know from past experience...
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 11-11-2015, 06:10 PM  
645 Z eye piece woes. Help needed
Posted By Royce Howland
Replies: 6
Views: 1,761
If you see bare threads on the barrel of the viewfinder with the rubber eyecup removed, then you are missing the ring. It has no part number or any other identifying info. If you check the 645Z manual (electronic version) page 10, the ring is called the "Standard Eyecup". Attaching the large rubber eyecup over the standard one is shown via illustration on page 37 of the manual. If you've lost that ring, the rubber eyecup can't be used, and you'll have to see if your dealer can order you a new one...
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 11-03-2015, 08:34 PM  
Two Iceland 645z test prints
Posted By Royce Howland
Replies: 24
Views: 3,557
Looking very good. Files from the digital 645's beg to be printed, I'm glad you are doing it! :)
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 08-18-2015, 08:12 AM  
67 105mm on the 645D/Z?
Posted By Royce Howland
Replies: 16
Views: 6,810
I don't do a lot of portraiture, but I bought a 67 105mm f/2.4 specifically for that purpose some time ago, after seeing Chris Willson's early work with it on his 645D. I have the newer version of the lens. shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=889257&u=523490&m=66875&urllink=keh.com has some right now; they call the newer one &afftrack="PENTAX 105MM F/2.4 SMC LATE LENS FOR PENTAX 6X7 SERIES". The older one is the Takumar, I haven't tried it.

Here's something I made with the 105mm on the 645Z. This was shot at f/8; available light, ISO 400, handheld. I wanted a little more depth of field for the subject so I didn't shoot a wider aperture. I do like the look of this lens. Nailing the focus right on is challenging at the wider apertures, but like most things, with practice you should get the hang of it. :)

The new 645 90mm f/2.8 is probably better all around. But for the price difference there's hardly any downside to trying the old 67 option.

Forum: Pentax Medium Format 03-03-2015, 09:06 AM  
Banding & strange colour shifts in sky highlights?
Posted By Royce Howland
Replies: 56
Views: 9,862
Derekkite, it's not so much that Lab mode has more colour range than RGB colour mode (i.e. wider vs. narrower gamut). It's more that Lab mode tone and colour transformations work on the image in a different way, cleanly separating lightness edits from colour edits for one thing. In RGB mode, editing tone impacts colour as a side effect; in Lab mode that isn't the case. That's why editing tone for the blue island photo using Lab mode can avoid hue shifts in the sky.

There are other colour modes as well, such as CMYK or Grayscale. And also other models of colour such as HSL that aren't made available as "modes" in Photoshop but which may be used under the hood in some of the filters or tools. Each colour mode / model has its strengths & weaknesses, which may make it more or less appropriate for certain kinds of image edits.

There is a colour range (gamut) issue at play with the blue island shot, but only at the very end with the conversion from the wide gamut ProPhoto RGB (or Adobe RGB) to narrow gamut sRGB. The deep saturated blues in the scene are definitely outside the gamut of sRGB, and so hue shifts will result unless the file is edited prior to the colour space conversion, to compensate for sRGB's limitations. But by that point, the file already had issues of magenta / green banding in the sky that came from the earlier tone edits. Those were the result of something else, not related to gamut size.

This stuff is a bit esoteric and most photographers don't need to know that much about it most of the time. But every so often a case like this comes up, and then some colour theory needs to be sorted out to understand why the problem is going on, and how to fix or avoid it... :)
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 02-21-2015, 06:02 PM  
Hand holding 645D?
Posted By Royce Howland
Replies: 27
Views: 4,323
I photographed many times with the 645D hand held, and I enjoyed it a lot. Having said that, I do enjoy shooting the 645Z this way a little more, simply because it's more responsive, and the greater range of ISO provides more exposure options in available light. Either way, I wouldn't call it "last resort". If David Burnett could shoot the 2012 Olympics with a 4x5 Speed Graphic hand held, then I guess we can photograph hand held with a Pentax 645 digital rig. :)

Most of my photography is done on a tripod, but I grew tired of carrying multiple systems awhile ago. I'm slowly divesting everything outside of my Pentax 645 kit. So if I want to shoot indoor candids, street, events, wildlife or whatever else, the Pentax is what I reach for because it's the camera system I want to photograph with, and most often I don't have any other "large" system available. (I do have a Sony pocket camera, and a camera phone.) If you use anything enough, you tend to get good at using it to its maximum potential, within whatever relative strengths & weaknesses it has.

Depending on lens, available light, shooting technique, etc. the D (or Z) may or may not produce the highest resolution / lowest noise images of which the camera is capable. That might be perfectly fine; not all photographs need the highest level of technical quality to achieve the purpose.

Maximum ISO is whatever I need for the exposure I want. Noise tolerance is a personal choice. Though normally I preferred a lower ISO, I shot up to ISO 1600 on the D many times with results usable for what I needed. I try to do more or less the rule of thumb of keeping the shutter speed at or above the reciprocal of the focal length. With the caveat that this rule of thumb is from 35mm full frame equivalent focal lengths, and assumes no stabilization. And the further caveat that sometimes blur, very shallow depth-of-field, or other characteristics are creative choices rather than flaws...
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 02-28-2015, 07:46 PM  
Banding & strange colour shifts in sky highlights?
Posted By Royce Howland
Replies: 56
Views: 9,862
Rob: So back to your first example DNG. I know that your histogram in Lightroom is probably telling you this DNG file is not over-exposed. Certainly my Adobe Camera Raw histogram is telling me that when I open the DNG to convert the file for some tests. However, as I mentioned earlier in the thread, the RawDigger tool says the file definitely is over-exposed, and not by a small amount either. Both Green channels of the raw data (pre-de-mosaiced files have 2 G channels, and 1 each of R and B channels) are severely clipped in the area where you're having the problem with magenta and green shifts. Each G channel contains 1/4 of the raw pixel data recorded in the DNG, somewhere a little over 12 MP. Of those 12 MP in each G channel, RawDigger reports over 1 MP of them are clipped in the highlights. Neither Lightroom nor any other raw conversion tool will be able to do anything about that... there simply is no G channel data in the DNG file to convert.

I've attached an initial screenshot showing RawDigger's basic RGB render of the DNG file, with highlight clip warning turned on. The next screenshot shows just the 2nd of the 2 G channels, clipped in exactly the trouble region. The third screenshot shows the RawDigger 4-channel raw histogram, where both G channels clearly hit the clipping wall on the highlight end.

To try to fix this, I did a conversion of the DNG to 16-bit TIFF / ProPhoto RGB. Then I did a bunch of attempts at channel surgery. Basically, I made a selection of only the blue sky region of the image. Using that selection, I copied pieces of the R, G and B channels into their own layers, and blended them together in various ways. The results of these blending trials, I copied back into the G channel to replace the sky region with new data overwriting the area that previously was whacked out. The results looked different and in some cases better, so you might find this an approach that offers a possible solution with more work. Moving quickly, though, I wasn't finding one that I really liked.

On a lark, I tried something completely different. I went back to the original DNG in Adobe Camera Raw trying to see why it wasn't complaining of a clipped G channel when RawDigger showed the evidence of such a large amount of clipped G channel raw data. Just trying a bunch of scenarios, I attempted a range of different white point settings. Low & behold, choosing Tungsten produced a sky with a clean blue gradient, no presence of magenta / green banding or other side effects from that clipped hump in the G channel raw data. Probably due to skewing things heavily in favour of a much "bluer" blue sky. I quickly did a second raw conversion, grabbed the tungsten blue sky & copied it over top of the sky in the original converted file, applied a gradient masked curves layer and a quick hue layer to adjust the blue. I don't know what kind of blue you're looking for in this scene, perhaps a paler one. But adjusting the blue to look the way you need it to is far easier without having to deal with the nasty magenta / green banding caused by converting with a warmer colour temperature. The 4th screen shot shows after & before examples; clearly the blue in the after example still isn't right but it would be adjustable.

Why this whole situation is happening in the first place, I can't say. From your photography background, I will presume you well know how to use "expose to the right" technique to preserve highlights, read on-camera histograms, etc. All I can say for sure is what the data shows -- the DNG file's raw G channels are clipped, and that's directly where the rest of your challenges in the sky are coming from. Hopefully a mix of using a different colour temperature conversion for the sky and/or some channel surgery would give you some other technicques to fix it. But better to figure out why it's happening so you can avoid this kind of repair work...
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 02-28-2015, 01:02 PM  
Banding & strange colour shifts in sky highlights?
Posted By Royce Howland
Replies: 56
Views: 9,862
Rob, I looked at your blue island DNG file. The original is fine, not a thing wrong with it that I can see. I diagnose the green banding as follows. The situation you're running into is being triggered by a couple of things. First is that the image is very monochromatic in a particular range of blue hues that are very sensitive to contrast changes. When you're working on an RGB file, doing things that involve contrast changes will push and pull the R, G and B colour channels around. They don't typically change uniformly; the underlying math is trying to maintain a consistent perceptual "look", but sometimes when the colour channels move, they hit inflection points with each other where a hue shift can be caused. This is happening to this file.

Making curves edits in Photoshop to approximate the tonal appearance of your web site JPEG of this image, I can easily create green bands in the sky in the same area you pointed out. That's because by default, Photoshop curves (I believe like most Lightroom contrast edits such as the grad tool) work in colour mode, changing the R, G and B channels differently and producing hue shifts. In Photoshop, you can change the blending mode of a curves layer from "Normal" to "Luminosity", which attempts to restrict the tone curve to impacting only relative brightness of the image. But this only partially restricts the green banding from happening, because fundamentally in an RGB colour image when you impact contrast you also impact colour. The two are linked.

The second thing is then triggered when you convert to sRGB for posting on the web. Recall that the gamut of sRGB is more limited than Adobe RGB, and much more limited than ProPhoto RGB (a variation of which is being used internally within Lightroom while you're editing the file). It so happens that your range of blues here involve a degree of contribution from the R channel that gets absolutely crushed when you convert to sRGB. This exaggerates what was already happening from the contrast edits above, and really bakes in some channel inflection points that make dealing with the hue shifts extremely difficult after the conversion to sRGB.

I've attached a couple of screenshots here. The first shows the R, G and B histograms from your blue island DNG, where I converted to 16-bit TIFF / ProPhoto RGB with mild edits much as you described. (I use Photoshop, not LR, but that doesn't affect the underlying diagnosis.) All 3 histograms look normal, though clearly the R channel is biased to the darker tones, while the B channel is biased to the brighter tones.

The second screenshot shows the same R, G and B histograms after converting the edited file to sRGB, but no further adjustments. Note that the R channel has been fairly crushed, with a lot of clipping to black. The third screenshot shows a visualization of the R channel alone in the image, showing where the channel data has been blocked up completely to 0. I downloaded the blue island JPEG from your web site and looked at it; the R channel is even a bit more crushed, indicating you had a slightly more contrasty original working image before the conversion to sRGB did its damage.

So to recap, this situation involves a couple of different things. First is a monochromatic blue hue range that's very sensitive to contrast changes pushing the RGB colour channels into some hue shifts at certain points where the channels are hitting some ugly inflection points in the roll-off from highlights down to midtones. To avoid this first problem, I experimented with converting the image from RGB mode to Lab mode, and then making similar contrast adjustments to the L channel alone. (This requires Photoshop, I believe Lightroom has no support for Lab mode.) Doing this, I saw virtually none of the green banding effect, plus a retention of blue hues that were more true to the original colours in the DNG file. Lab mode is tailor made for this type of situation. Once done all the contrast adjustments in Lab mode, convert back to RGB mode and carry on with any other finishing work you want to do.

Note: If I continued to push the contrast quite extremely, even Lab mode edits were able to hit weird inflection points in the two colour channels of Lab, introducing some hue shifts. You're simply going to have to back off the global contrast pushes in this case. Go with a lighter and/or a more selective hand, dialing contrast in more selectively in areas rather than globally. Once the hue shifts are there, getting rid of them will be a lot harder than not triggering into them in the first place. But in Lab, doing a similar level of edits to approximate the contrast shown in your web site JPEG version of this shot, I saw no green banding.

Second issue: the conversion to sRGB is hammering the R channel of the image file. This introduces another pile of hue shifts by imbalancing the RGB colour channels due to the elimination of the R component from the upper sky and lower water. The 4th screen shot I've attached shows a softproofing view from a tool called Gamutvision, with a really useful gamut warning display.

The false colour rendering shows the areas of colours that are out of gamut when your blue island shot with my edits is converted from ProPhoto RGB to sRGB. There's simply a ton of dark blues that are out of the gamut range of sRGB; during the conversion to sRGB those pixels are going to be rendered with incorrect colours, which we know from looking at the histograms above is mainly because the R channel is getting clipped to 0 in those same regions.

The rendering of false colours in the gamut warning display corresponds to delta-E values in the horizontal range below, showing dE values from 0 to nearly 11. The rule of thumb is that dE values of 1 or less are basically unnoticeable colour changes; up to 3 may be noticeable but minor colour changes; and dE values above that are definitely more & more noticeable. (The gamut warning display in Photoshop shows out-of-gamut colours over a similar region as in this Gamutvision display, but Photoshop doesn't show by how much the colours are out of gamut -- just that they're in or out.)

So... the mere act of converting this image to sRGB triggers hue shift in a large area. The way to avoid this would be the same as the way to avoid any other out-of-gamut situation. If you really want the web JPEG file to look its best, then prior to the conversion to sRGB you'll need to custom edit the file to move the affected regions of the image away from the blue range that sRGB can't represent. You'd do this probably by increasing lightness and/or reducing saturation in those deep blues.

In my estimation, neither of these things has much to do with the 645Z. Certainly the second issue is just a standard matter of being able to capture and edit rich colours that fall outside the range of the sRGB colour space. Nothing to do with the camera, except by virtue of its ability to capture a rich colour range in the first place. Contrast edits simply push those particular colours further into a region outside what sRGB can handle.

The first issue of why this particular range of monochromatic blues triggers the green banding and so on is perhaps peripherally related to the 645Z, in the sense that the spectral response of the camera's sensor may be recording blues in a way that past cameras you've used do not. But that's not necessarily a "fault" of the camera, that's just the way it's recording these blues. Having become aware of it, there are ways you can edit for contrast and tone, without hitting the tripwire. The simplest of these involve edits in Lab mode which is designed to separate tone edits from colour edits.

Also, as a side note, the above confirms this file is a different situation from the other example DNG you posted. As I noted previously, the trigger issue with that first file was both raw image data green channels being heavily clipped straight out of the DNG. That's not an editing issue, that's an issue of over exposure followed by a challenge in how to do a channel reconstruction to compensate for the lost G channel raw data. This can be done in Photoshop, but not in Lightroom... or certainly not easily anyway.
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 12-25-2014, 08:24 PM  
Help! Cannot AF with FA 645 35mm F 3.5 AL (IF) Lens
Posted By Royce Howland
Replies: 14
Views: 2,765
Put the 645Z into Live View mode, and see if you can autofocus the lens using the contrast detect AF function of the camera. (As opposed to the phase detect AF function that's used when you're shooting optically, no Live View.) I'm on my second 645Z because my first one was faulty. The camera worked fine in every regard, but it would not AF with any of my FA 645 lenses in phase detect mode -- trying to engage focus just did nothing at all, as if the lenses were all manual focus. (I knew the lenses were all fine from shooting with them for years on a pair of 645D's.) But in Live View contrast detect mode, all the lenses would autofocus fine. I exchanged the body for a different one 24 hrs later with my dealer, and the 2nd body worked perfectly.

Depending on your results testing the two AF modes, it may tell you whether it's more likely the lens or the camera body that has a problem.
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 12-03-2014, 02:41 PM  
Ricoh service experience
Posted By Royce Howland
Replies: 16
Views: 2,823
Yeah. As the photog in the video said, "it's not just the equipment, it's the support that comes along with it."

I'm just heading out the door but will have an update on this thread hopefully this weekend. The short form is I finally have a result. I just got my 645D back today from its trip to the shop -- it was away for 22 full weeks this time. Murphy being Murphy, my 645Z also broke down while the D was in for repairs, as did my DFA 25mm. (All were unrelated failures that occurred at different times for different reasons.) The Z and 25mm came back today as well. Both went in at the same time, and both were away for 8 full weeks.

I'm very grateful for the strong lobbying by my local dealer, and in the most recent simultaneous 3 service cases for the attention paid by senior Ricoh USA management. Without both of those, I have no doubt these situations would have been more costly in $ and especially time. For now, I have all my gear back and in working order... time to start using it again. :)
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 11-16-2014, 12:03 PM  
Ricoh service experience
Posted By Royce Howland
Replies: 16
Views: 2,823
Another current thread is commenting about a long response time to fix a 645 lens, and wonders about "Pentax pro service". Rather than respond in that thread, I'm creating a new one because of some stuff I've been sitting on for awhile.

Unfortunately, there is no "Pentax pro service", at least not in North America anyway. The Ricoh service function seems barely functional at all. The level of service for the 645 system in particular is far below professional in its communication & execution, nor is it tolerable by other professionals. I have a number of service cases in flight right now (to the tune of about $25K retail value of equipment). This includes a 645D with a failed shutter (second shutter failure on the same body). I've posted about this one here before; it went in for repair the first week of July and is not yet back in my hands. 18 weeks and counting on that one.

For the most part I've stopped talking about my service cases temporarily, because they've been escalated to the top management of Ricoh USA to try to get some traction. When you get somebody very senior who's willing to listen and intervene, it makes sense to give them some room to operate before ratcheting up the volume again. So I've been giving them a chance to correct things before I publicly post in full what's been going on. Ricoh service is going to look poor when I do post details; I'd prefer to do it after positive outcomes rather than before. I'm not going to wait forever before I start commenting, though, and this little note is the first bit of what I'm going to talk about starting in the near future.

Unfortunately my cases aren't isolated. I'm aware of several others that are as bad (or worse). Anecdotally, I know there are quite a few more than that. My local dealer has been 100% aces through the situation so far, and have gone to bat way beyond what they should have to do to support me in dealing with the vendor. The dealer team have assisted in bringing high level pressure to bear on Ricoh service. I'm very appreciative of everything the dealer folks have done; and as a result, some things have started to turn around on a few cases at least. But when the final tally is in, the execution of Ricoh service will have been, I would say, nothing short of appalling for this level of product.

I don't say this just as a customer who's steamed because of my own particular cases, though of course I am that in spades. I say it also as someone who has a 30-year primary career in high tech including product companies, and has an understanding of technology product R&D, sales, service and support; both strategy and operations. Crap can happen with just about any product or service. The best companies realize that a customer service case isn't just an irritating need to minimally satisfy the customer and hope they go away without getting excessively PO'ed, but in fact it's an opportunity to turn the situation around and create even greater buy-in and loyalty. My situation and others I know about are far, far from even a "calm the customer down" level of service. Ricoh service is dropping the ball in a pretty epic way, turning service cases into furious customers. Not the way to go, Ricoh.

I've told Ricoh reps and management that the situation is unacceptable. I use the word "unacceptable" not as hyperbole or just to indicate that I'm mad. I mean it literally -- I don't accept the situation. When someone doesn't accept a thing, that means behavior must and will change. Either Ricoh behavior changes, or mine will. My first behavior change will be that I switch from being a positive advocate for the brand to being a cautious advocate for the camera system and an active campaigner against the company's current service function and in favour of some pretty significant changes to it.

For anyone out there having issues with Ricoh service, my strong advice is don't stay silent and take it. Actively campaign against poor service with your dealer, the local Ricoh rep, and the highest level of Ricoh management you can reach in your region. Don't do this just by email; meet with them in person if you can, and write physical letters to go on record with your dissatisfaction. Enlist the help of your dealer, they'll know who you can contact. Ask the dealer also to put pressure on Ricoh on your behalf; they'll see the service history of all their customers and can be a leverage point. Be professional about your communications, but don't stop the pressure until you're satisfied. If you know other folks who have specific service issues that seem unacceptable, encourage them in turn to get vocal about the need for change. As customers, we get crap service because we tolerate it. If we don't like it, we should stop accepting it.

More to come, unfortunately... and really not the kind of stuff that I'd like to spend my time talking about. In my opinion the Pentax digital 645 system is amazing, and it really fits my kind of work better than anything else I've ever used. But some things reach a point where you can't just brush it off and carry on. And even if I was tempted to do just that, the track record of Ricoh service is actually not stable, it's trending in a downward direction from what I can tell. It's not something that I can accept for the level of investment I have in this camera system, or for the importance it has in how I choose to do my work.
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 10-25-2014, 11:31 AM  
Pentax Glass for 645z
Posted By Royce Howland
Replies: 20
Views: 4,687
I use many lenses from most Pentax generations on my 645D's and 645Z, and almost all of them have worked very acceptably for me. Only 2 didn't... the older FA 645 45mm f/2.8 prime, and the new DFA 55mm f/2.8 prime. The old 45mm is well known not to be the sharpest knife in the drawer; for landscape work or anything else needing good, consistent edge-to-edge rendering, it's not what I want. The new DFA 55mm is certainly better, but in terms of edge-to-edge performance it didn't have what I was looking for in a high-priced modern optic. 55mm was not a critical focal length for me, but I'd been hoping to use it for the decent f/2.8 max aperture, modern autofocus, etc. In the end the optical performance I felt wasn't worth the money so I sent it back. I do know others are happy with this lens.

All other A, FA, DFA and DA 645 lenses that I've personally used, plus some 67 lenses, have been anywhere from good to outstanding. I have the DA 25mm, A and FA 35mm, FA 45-85mm, A and FA 75mm, FA 80-160mm, A 120mm Macro, FA 200mm, FA 150-300mm, FA* 300mm f/4, FA 400mm, a few 67 models like the 105mm f/2.4. And a few others. I'll use any of these without reservation. Very few were bought new; most I bought used from KEH, eBay, or direct from individuals.

Asking which lenses are better than others, though, is a bit of a loaded question. Better in what way? You'd need to describe more of what your desired application is, your subjects, shooting style, budget, tolerance for usability quirks, etc. There are many trade-offs in lenses and what's excellent for me (tripod, low ISO, static scenes, manual everything most of the time, etc.) may not cut it for you.

E.g. for portraits you could spend serious money on the new optically stabilized DFA 90mm f/2.8 Macro, or you could spend peanuts on the old manual 67 105mm f/2.4 with a 67-to-645 adapter. Which would be better for you? Both can be used to make fantastic looking portraits, so you're trading off something else (money and some level of convenience / usability) in the choice.

As an aside, there are a number of past threads here on the forum talking about lens performance on the 645D and to a lesser extent on the 645Z; some are quite extensive. Plus there's the lens review section on the site. So one thing you can also do while waiting for others to chime in is read some of what has been written before... :)
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 10-21-2014, 09:31 AM  
Printing / Aluminium 645Z
Posted By Royce Howland
Replies: 17
Views: 2,714
Great photo Thomas. A ton of your work would look great on this type of print, IMO. :)

I've used metal prints and really like them as well for certain kinds of work. They have a great combination of colour, detail and a certain extra depth to them as you commented. Most metal printing services seem to be using Chromaluxe; this is a dye transfer process during which the image is first printed on a transfer substrate using a particular type of inks. Then that substrate is placed into a hot press, and the ink is transferred onto the aluminum panel. The oldest ones I have had done still look great (no fading or other issues), and even the high gloss surface (which I prefer) seems to be pretty robust as long as it's not scratched when dusting it off.

For those in the States who'd like to try this, online printing services like Bay Photo, Mpix and others will do them. My personal choice is Image Wizards in North Carolina. I have no connection other than being a happy customer...
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 08-31-2014, 08:23 AM  
Lost cause
Posted By Royce Howland
Replies: 135
Views: 12,889
Sorry to hear this, Aeros. You know some of what I have gone through with my Pentax service history. :) I firmly believe Ricoh needs to offer a seriously uprated "pro" level of service and support for the 645 system, and I've been pretty vocal about that in various forums... but more importantly through my local dealer (a highly respected professional shop that has carried Pentax forever) as well as face-to-face with the Pentax rep.

IMO, a $600 repair bill for impact damage on a $5000 lens is not out of line. I know from experience that Canon, Nikon, Sigma and others are charging repair fees like this on 35mm lenses that are much lower priced and sold in much higher volumes. You may choose to pay it or not, that's up to you. I don't consider the cost to be gouging but recognize that each person will place their own value on such things.

More troublesome is the lack of responsiveness, communication and timeliness in the servicing. That, to me, is what's unacceptable about your experience. My 10-week shutter replacement trips to Japan with no loaner program, etc., are already at the outside of what I'm looking for in a camera system of this level. Your 4+ month wait for zero results blows way past that. Totally not acceptable!

You've been a Pentax shooter for a long time, far longer than me, but either way I agree with you that the system is fantastic. I would encourage you not to bail out of anger, but stick with the rest of us in trying to influence Ricoh to bring this system to a truly professional level of service and support. Ricoh is fully capable of doing so, and where else are you likely to get a digital system with this level of bang-for-buck? The trouble is like any large company, Ricoh's focus is diverted in many directions. The camera operation is a tiny fly-speck of revenue, plus no doubt there's constant nagging about the bottom line since the economy still pretty much sucks. So the issue for us is that change probably must come from "squeaky wheel" attention and some much-needed market success. We need to be the squeaky wheel, but not in a scorched-earth way. If Ricoh thinks there's no upside to increasing their level of support, because everyone is just going to burn them to the ground on the first bad experience, it may not create the outcome we actually want. And that is for the camera system to get the level of support it deserves and succeed in the market.
Forum: Pentax Medium Format 09-02-2014, 08:10 PM  
Question - Medium Format Landscape Shooters
Posted By Royce Howland
Replies: 25
Views: 5,593
I personally stay in the range of f/8 to f/11 on my 645D and 645Z with pretty well all lenses, if I'm shooting for detail. If I'm shooting something so blurred that diffraction is a total non-issue anyway, then I'll freely stop down however much I need to control shutter speed. When shooting for detail, I can see the softening effects of diffraction by f/16 and certainly more so beyond that. It seems counter-intuitive in some ways, but if the scene is static enough, I prefer to shoot multiple frames at say f/10 and then focus stack in software, rather than stop down even to f/16. The improved results are worth the extra effort to me.

If the scene isn't static then focus stacking & blending frames may not be a choice. At that point I have to decided on what trade-off to take.

Diffraction limitation is influenced by a few different things to some extent, but purely speaking it is dominated by lens f # regardless of the format of the camera. With medium format cameras you typically have to enlarge an image less for a given print size, than is the case for 35mm or smaller format cameras. This is where the "wisdom" comes from stating that you can stop down more on medium format before diffraction sets in. Technically that's not true; you just can't see the diffraction as readily as on a smaller format image, if both are printed to the same size, because the smaller format image is enlarged more. Of course pixel pitch on a digital sensor plays into this, by determining at what point the optical effect of diffraction that is going on becomes actually resolvable on the sensor.

You can play around with some of this using the simple diffraction limitation calculator at the Cambridge In Color web site; scroll to the bottom of the page.
Diffraction Limited Photography: Pixel Size, Aperture and Airy Disks
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