|
Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
03-23-2024, 06:28 PM
|
| |
It's a snakefly, genus Agulla (Order: Raphidioptera; Family Raphidiidae). Good capture. These aren't uncommon but they aren't often encountered either. The larvae are predators on smaller insects and often are found under the bark of logs.
|
|
Forum: Digital Processing, Software, and Printing
10-23-2022, 05:06 PM
|
| |
Interesting video. Definitely has some good tips towards using NR effectively in Lightroom
|
|
Forum: Pentax News and Rumors
12-05-2019, 09:59 AM
|
| |
| |
|
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
04-08-2019, 04:54 PM
|
| |
Finally! After several times trying using cold/hot and rubber belt wrenches, the thing that worked was to very lightly pry the gap between barrel and hood with a table knife then the rubber belt wrenches. My assumption is that the prying disengaged the stuck or cross-threaded threads enough to allow the two pieces to move.
Thanks to all who answered this thread (no pun intended)
|
|
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
03-16-2019, 02:18 PM
|
| |
Psoo - this built-on hood of the F300 fastens opposite to how a typical lens hood would screw into filter threads. The threads are on the outside of the barrel and the hood surrounds it with threads on the inside. Hence cooling the barrel would shrink it away from the surrounding hood.
|
|
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
03-16-2019, 05:49 AM
|
| |
Thanks Gary for the hand warmer suggestion. I may try to use cooling on the end of the lens barrel while applying the hand warmers to the hood to maximize the contraction and expansion effect.
|
|
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
03-13-2019, 06:12 PM
|
| |
HI Richfam - good to know that this has happened before and it "resolved itself". Temperature change might be the key so I may try cooling it down in the fridge or warming it up in the sun for a while and see if that works. You can bet I won't ever tighten it too far again.
|
|
Forum: Troubleshooting and Beginner Help
03-13-2019, 03:15 PM
|
| |
Somehow I managed to get the built on lens hood of the F300 stuck in the extended position. Probably it is cross-threaded. I've tried putting as much force into turning it with my hands as I can and have even tried using 2 belt wrenches to increase the leverage but nothing - doesn't even give the slightest indication of movement.
Does anyone have any tricks up their sleeve for this problem? Maybe a safe thread lubricant to try or something else non-damaging I can try?
Any suggestions are welcome and if one works I'll post the solution.
|
|
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
03-11-2019, 05:30 PM
|
| |
Thanks so much for your prompt reply.
|
|
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
03-11-2019, 03:22 PM
|
| |
I have a F* 300mm lens and I managed to get the lens hood stuck in extended position last time I used it (cross-threaded I believe).
What I would like to know from another owner of this lens is which direction does the hood turn to loosen from the extended position? Please refer to the direction in terms of clockwise/counter-clockwise when viewing from the front of the lens.
Thanks.
|
|
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
01-05-2019, 11:07 AM
|
| |
The plastic cap for Fuji film canisters fits perfectly.
|
|
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
04-27-2018, 06:16 PM
|
| |
Another option is this Universal lens hood made of silicone from kuvrdcamera.com
|
|
Forum: Sold Items
02-19-2018, 06:17 PM
|
| |
| |
|
Forum: Pentax Price Watch
02-13-2018, 04:45 PM
|
| |
| |
|
Forum: Pentax Price Watch
01-26-2018, 10:37 PM
|
| |
| |
|
Forum: Pentax SLR Lens Discussion
12-09-2017, 04:58 PM
|
| |
| |
|
Forum: Post Your Photos!
07-22-2017, 08:04 PM
|
| |
Do you need a flash to take good macros? No. But your ability to capture sharp images with maximum depth of field at the lowest ISO setting will be greatly improved. Your best bet is a small, low-power (GN20) flash preferably with multiple power levels. This one is a good example. Setting the flash at a low power level reduces the flash time to thousandths of a second and effectively freezes all motion even at relatively slow shutter speeds. By using the flash off-camera and holding it very close to the subject you can set the aperture to f16 and the ISO to 100 for optimum DOF and picture quality. An added benefit is that the closer the flash is to the subject, the less harsh the shadows. You can also adjust the angle of the light to achieve more realistic and 3D look to your subject.
If you want to give this a try for cheap go to a used camera dealer, a garage sale (or ebay) and buy an old low power flash and PC to hot shoe cord. You will be impressed with the results.
|
|
Forum: Sold Items
09-18-2016, 04:50 PM
|
| |
| |
|
Forum: Sold Items
07-20-2016, 09:26 AM
|
| |
| |
|
Forum: Photographic Technique
06-27-2016, 05:03 PM
|
| |
I've shot in these all-blue California many times, and, though often I wish there were dramatic cloud formations to enhance a majestic landscape, I've found that these two approaches work best for me:
1) minimize the amount of sky by making a close foreground element and the surroundings dominate the scene
OR
2) use the empty sky to create images that emphasize the (negative) space. A tree and hilltop in the bottom corner of the frame for example can be quite dramatic.
Because a blue sky is very close to (exactly?) middle tone it will always look perfect at sunny 16 exposure and can take a fair bit of adjustment in post without blowing out. I wouldn't suggest ND or polarizers for landscapes in these conditions unless you are shooting early and/or late in the day when sunny 16 no longer applies and the landscape is in shadows. At these times of day you could also try HDR mode or bracketing rather than using ND filters. If you are wanting to isolate your subject by minimizing DOF then ND filters might be your solution but you can always try using a longer local length and isolate your subject against a more distant background or against the blue sky.
Hope these suggestions help you out.
|
|
Forum: Product Suggestions and Feedback
06-13-2016, 04:25 PM
|
| |
Bring back the ability to use Catch-In-Focus with the back AF button
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
05-27-2016, 07:29 PM
|
| |
Have you tried using just RAW (without simultaneous JPG write) and serial use (non-mirror mode) of SD slots? I would also try to use 2 identical fast SD cards to minimize any issues that might slow clearing the buffer.
|
|
Forum: Flashes, Lighting, and Studio
05-24-2016, 04:20 PM
|
| |
Very interesting design however I believe that the relatively long exposure (flash) time of 1/100sec will make this unit ineffective for freezing subject and camera motion. Also the effective distance range of 2-5cm seems rather limiting for a unit with 8 stops of exposure control (perhaps this is a typo in the Amazon description). Though not as aesthetically pleasing, the Laowa flash system seems like a much better choice for a gooseneck unit. I suspect the Pringles can hack would actually produce consistently better results than this unit would.
I would however love for you to prove me wrong - do post your review if you decide to buy.
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
05-20-2016, 10:30 PM
|
| |
Make Catch in Focus work with the back focus button like it did before the K3
|
|
Forum: Pentax K-1 & K-1 II
05-14-2016, 07:09 AM
|
| |
An issue for me (and others I assume) that use the back AF button and disable the shutter button AF: the Catch In Focus functionality does not work in this mode. This useful feature was dropped from the K3 after being present in all previous models I have owned. While annoying on the K3 it is downright aggravating on the K1 given the reduced depth of field requires more accurate focus. This should be a straightforward modification to the firmware so I am hoping Ricoh will read this thread and re-implement this functionality.
|
